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This thread has been locked |
Ouch!
climber
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Apr 10, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
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Hey Locker! Were you mean to Happi's dog?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 10, 2006 - 07:48pm PT
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Happi,
Sorry, I didn't mean to bust on ya. Yeah, it was really lame of that guy not to check to see if you were ok.
Seems like I constantly have to relearn the lesson that not everyone climbs like I climb. And I mean climb as every step of the process. Fortunately, most of my partners have been great, and I'd bend over backward to help them out, even away from the rock.
But sometimes, I'm blinded by my own stoke as well as a few, eh, misrepresentations. Which can lead to some exciting and/or excruciating times at the crag. Plus, a few of my partners have been, well, a bit dramatic.
Naturally, I'm as much to blame for these misadventures as the partner I didn't mesh with. Sort of. It's just another one of those risks you take when you climb...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Apr 10, 2006 - 08:07pm PT
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Partners who toprope laps - bugs
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 10, 2006 - 09:24pm PT
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Several times I've had partners on walls who, given the easier free pitchs because of their lesser experience, somehow have come to the conclusion that despite agreeing to FIX THE LEAD ROPE AND HAUL THE BAG they now feel obliged to ignore the agreed upon protocol and first haul the bag, then pull up the slack and put me on belay.
Twice now wind and position have made communication impossible and I've jugged and cleaned only to discover that the rope isn't tied in and my partner is wimpering and whining about not being able to hold me much longer...
I wish I could remember the name of the first guy (its been 30+ years) but the second was Rick McKinney. I post this as a public service to others as this person is walking proof that the term "common sense" is a contradiction.
If I ever find myself in that position again (and I will try HARD not to) and my erstwhile belayer whines, "But its freeeeeeeeeee." I'm gonna say, "So are you." and execute my very first mid-wall divorce. I mean, its one thing if you AGREE to wait for him to haul and then belay you (very inefficient), but if he is so stupid that he thinks there is some kind of unspoken rule against jugging a free pitch and you MUST follow not jug then this person is dangerously stupid.
Cut 'im loose, or better yet, avoid roping up to begin with.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 11, 2006 - 12:50am PT
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And then there are people who can't keep their agreements.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 11, 2006 - 01:35am PT
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I climb with strangers all the time but ever since I had a website, I've never had a bag experience with anybody. I think the ones who wouldn't like me figure it out in advance.
and over the years I've developed a sense of climbers and what they're probably capable and incapable of.
Maybe I'm too California and easy going.
I've done some climbing in the more distant past with a few folks that I knew rubbed me the wrong way. My best example is recorded in my Shield trip report here
http://yosemiteclimber.com/ElCapShield.html
Additionally I've taken a couple falls that were 15-20 feet longer than they needed to be due to bad belaying, but I don't fault the person for making a mistake (much) It helps forgiveness when you don't break anything before the rope stops you.
Puttering can be irritating, but I'm not shy about prodding a bit when time's of the essence.
Peace
Karl
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Apr 11, 2006 - 08:43am PT
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Not only did I mess up with the "combustibles", I assembled the ledge wrong, ("2 am sooprise," **!), party fouled the last malt and put not one, but two core shots in the rope jugging over the Cyclops Eye.
I won't bore you with details, but suffice to say, they never climbed with me again.
Nice link, btw, KB...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 11, 2006 - 09:07am PT
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Karl, great story about the Shield. Was that your first 'partner' that turned to a life of crime, robbing banks (he must not have been very good if he got caught), or do your other partners have a predilection for being Butch Cassidies and the Sundance Ki(n)ds. LOL ;-)
PS If we ever climb together, am I going to find myself fighting some hidden demons or desire to stick up banks? Can't hitting old ladies over the head and grabbing their bags suffice?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 11, 2006 - 12:06pm PT
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Some people have a subconscious need to subvert themselves. My partner was a smart guy who should have known he wouldn't get away with his crimes, and deep down he knew that he was setting himself up for a disaster.
First you paint yourself into a corner and then you've got nothing left to drink but paint.
Unless you have the vision to say "enough of this" and walk right over the paint and start differently
Peace
Karl
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spyork
Trad climber
Fremont, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
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Wow, great story Karl.
Robbing banks, not for me. The feds have really long memories and constitute the largest armed gang of thugs in the world.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 01:04pm PT
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Hey Dave:
"But, I've stuck myself more than once with a partner who claims to be motivated to get out and climb. Only to find out that they they are the World's Slowest Hiker. Or they dick around at the car. Or delay some other way. Or spend all day babysitting a dog. Or want to do 2 pitches and go home."
Hee hee hee . . . that last one . .. reminds me of a guy I met who had me drive three hours to meet him to climb and then had to stop after the second route because his shoes were too hot.
Terri, sounds to me like you're expecting chivalry from your climbing partners . . . you'll find that most partners worth their salt won't put up with princessing but will work with you to save your asses on true rescues. I once went skiing with some guys that had never gone before, taught them how to do it, then I would pass them as they negotiated, screwing around in the trees. I finally ate it , thanks to hubris, and they skiid right on past me while i lay there, poles in one direction, googles in another, feet pointed at odd angles. I was all huffy when I caught up to them about their not stopping to "save" me, and they said, "Ehh, you were fine. You taught us!"
Woman, get yourself a dog that doesn't need carrying or don't take it! *I* would be annoyed by that.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 01:20pm PT
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Hah! Busted by maculated. In all fairness, we did 4 pitches that day (all led by me, eh?), and I would have kept climbing if I didn't have a blister on my achilles the size of a quarter. Note that I didn't hike slow, dick around at the car, or spend all day babysitting a dog. ;)
But I've had my gumb moments, yes I have!
In the way of full disclosure, I've driven from Sacramento to Arch rock for a day trip, and only climbed (read: dogged) the Gripper. Only thing I did that day, got too worked. Felt like I let my partner down. Ripped my shirt. Ate a big burger in Mariposa. Limped home.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2006 - 01:41pm PT
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Mac - I do not expect "chivalry." I expect the same thing I provide - common decency. Would I NOT think a woman would call out "Hey! Are you all right?" upon hearing a person fall????? It has NOTHING to do with gender.
You all know......I was hesitant to describe the experience that inspired this thread, for just such comments as have been directed my way.
Honestly - I had intended to bring a "climbing-related" thread to the forum. One about people's experiences gone wrong with climbing partners.
I did not solicit advise...don't recall any words whatsoever that were anything like "what do you think?"....and am a little annoyed that people have brought it upon themselves to go on about it.
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MUR
climber
A little to the left of right
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Apr 11, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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No sh#t, enough of the Anne Landers BS, bring on the stories. I demand entertainment.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 02:02pm PT
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Oh, Dave, can't pull the "I led all the pitches" this time - that was my first time out after my partner decked, man. :) You were my emotional ROCK. Ahem. Except for my needing to body belay you because of that crap anchor.
Chivalry exists in both genders, we just like to associate it with "knights."
Maybe my expectations are low for my fellow human. ::shrug::
I got stories, but they've all been told. I got wiser in my old age and don't put up with drama anymore so no stories.
Probably the best "read the signs" story I can think of is my Cathedral Peak story: http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36148
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 02:07pm PT
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"I did not solicit advise...don't recall any words whatsoever that were anything like "what do you think?"....and am a little annoyed that people have brought it upon themselves to go on about it."
Sorry about that... but your post raised several 'partner red flags' for me...
So in trying to keep in the spirit you intended, here's my story of a bad partner.
I arrange to meet this guy to climb at Sugarloaf (coincidentally, this is the day before I'm supposed to climb 4 pitches with maculated). He shows up at the meeting point, and he is so freaking stoned he can't talk. I'm not joking. He can't talk! First time I meet the guy, 8 am or so, and he can't speak. Just mumble and gurgle. But I'm hard up, so I climb with him anyway despite serious misgivings. I did make him lead the first pitch. Day passed w/o major incident, but never climbed with him again.
Another time, we go to Lover's Leap with a few folks I meet at the gym. I'm looking to pick up more partners, and this gym crowd seemed competent. So we stroll, at a painfully slow pace, stopping every 30 feet to look at the cliff, over to the East Wall. Those of you familiar with the Leap know what that means. Yep, we're gumbs, and getting passed by several parties on the trail. I am dying on the inside.
So we get there, and miracles of miracles, no one is on The Line. So I grab one of the group, a young lady, and march on over. Climb first pitch. Frequent looks down confirm that my partner is sitting down, not watching me at all, with a loop of slack in the dirt. I comment about this, which results in immediate correction. Alas, the infraction was repeated moments later. Sigh.
Bringing up second now, and she is hanging all over me. Ugh. To compound it, I'm belaying off my harness, from a stance. I hadn't really expected that it would take her an hour to get up, hanging all over my kidneys. Clearly, we have to bail. I can't take two more pitches of this.
She finally reaches the belay. I tell her we have to bail. She's disappointed, and says "I could do it if I didn't have this pack on." She's got a pack, that I thought contained her tennis shoes and one nalgene. Turns out, she is an aspiring trad leader, and has purchased a full rack, which is stuffed in the pack. I am incredulous, but am told she had it in there "to get used to the feel of climbing with a rack on."
She hands me the pack and it is sooo heavy I can barely hold it. The thing weighs a ton!
Fortunately, there is a party below, and we are able to lower the rope and climb on w/o incident. ALthough, she did get a little snappy when I tried to impart a little anchor wisdom. "I know you think I'm a beginner, but I know what I'm doing." Right.
So that was that. She went on to climb the Haystack later that day with a couple of the other gym group, while I met slobmonster from this site, and he graciously fed me PBRs in the campground. Oh, you know they epicked on Haystack. Wild day.
The weekend was redeemed though. I climbed with Slobmonster the next day, who is a great partner, and had one of my best days of the season.
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MUR
climber
A little to the left of right
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Apr 11, 2006 - 02:08pm PT
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Ah c'mon Mac, I have read all your stories, and they are always worth the price of admission. *sigh* Guess I'll have to go study for my Minerals exam.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 02:15pm PT
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hah hah, just teasing you Kristin. That was back when your dog wasn't such a vicious little beast. I spent a whole day with the Fury, and wasn't bit once.
That would change in subsequent years...
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 02:18pm PT
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Well, thanks, Mur. Everyone keeps whining that I don't do them any more, but seriously - you get stuff fairly wired and climb with the same regular partners, no epics! Not as fun to write! :)
I know. Stupid dog. She was totally chill back then.
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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Apr 11, 2006 - 02:18pm PT
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Trad and diabetes do not go together for me. If you have witnessed insulin shock, you'll understand. Fortunately did not occur until after climbing was done.
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