The Coast Range B.C./Mt Bute/Waddington etc.

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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 20, 2012 - 03:52am PT
Ya Jim!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 20, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
Real mountains!

Here's one from well above, of the Tellot Glacier area. The maintenance people seem to have forgotten to clean my window that day - I wonder how Dru does it?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 20, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Too often when we think of the Coast Mountains it's the Wadd Range and immediate neighbours. Or maybe Monarch. There are places in the Coast Mountains that make the Wadd Range seem as heavily trafficked as Chamonix by comparison. In honor of John Clarke this set of pics is from the Kingcome Glacier drainage. A wild place with some large rock walls and some amazing locals.

Upper Kingcome. Lahlah Creek on the right. Obvious wall is 1000m+ but disappointingly bushy on close inspection. Waterfalls partially out of photo on left are also 800m+ high all told but not very steep.

This one is 550m top to base, which is higher than Della. Wonder if it freezes?

Used to be a glacier, now it's a 5km long lake with a glacier dropping into it... head of the Satsalla. A very dark place surrounded by massive brooding walls.

You can see this waterfall in the distance in the last shot. The serac is about 40-50m high.

The wall on the west side of the lake has a crazy overhanging face that's hundreds of meters high. You can see this thing in spring in a pic in John Baldwin's ski guide.

The wall on the east side of the lake is the west face of Kolos Peak and it's 2000m high, although not all vertical. This is about a third of the whole thing, it was too big to get in the frame. Also pretty green. Doubt it will see a big wall team anytime this century. You never know though. Silvia Vidal might solo it.





Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 20, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Most of my pictures from that trip had a big orange stripe across the middle.
Jstod

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:48am PT
Mike Down - Prince of the Coast range! I keep hearing he gets out there. I bet he lurks eh?

I don't think he does! He does, however, get in there often (including twice this summer).

Here's one of him from three or four years ago...


harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:54am PT
Hey Bruce or Drew can you identify these peaks north of the Monarch ice cap.The pic is taken just west of the Jacobsen peaks. I was fascinated by them at the time because they looked so steep and jagged.Nice photos of the John Clarke areas Drew. It would be nice if he had a whole range named after him ,not just a mountain.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:39am PT
WIthout looking at a map, it looks as if the pics are looking pretty much north, towards the Borealis Peaks, with the Nyland area in behind. Rugged country; still seldom visited. To my mind, more interesting than much of the Ape Lake area itself.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:47am PT
Please delete this thread, it is giving me much heartache!

Despite the pain here's the last one kicked up a notch...
That looks like the Grandes Jorasses in the back there.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 21, 2012 - 02:04am PT
Isn't Mt. Arjuna one of the dominant peaks up there? Should be in view in that picture. Maybe the pointy one to the left of center?
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 08:57am PT
Thanks Tricouni, I was looking on google earth and the bigger peaks seemed to be around 9000'around that area and I just thought that the one sharp peak would be higher than that for some reason.Cheers
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:48am PT
BMACD how about some Powell river pics,eh.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Isn't Mt. Arjuna one of the dominant peaks up there? Should be in view in that picture. Maybe the pointy one to the left of center?

Yes, I wrote Nyland, but I think Arjuna is correct. I'll have to get out my 1:50K maps and spread them all over the floor, John Clarke style.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:48pm PT

June 15, 1964. Dick Culbert and I packed up from the Scimitar along the east side of the Radiant Glacier for an an attempt on Serra 5. Here we take a rest stop where we had our first good view of the big peaks forming the headwall of the Radiant Glacier.

Mount Tiedemann is on the extreme right, with Asperity to its left. Serra 5 is left of the "low" col; Serra 4 pointy rock spike) is to the left. Serra 3 is directly above Dick's head and appears the highest in this view. Mt. Argiewicz anchors the far left of the photo. The long, non-descript ridge between it and Serra 3 is home to Tellot Dome and the ridges above the Tellot Spires. The top of Serra 2 is just visible as a small, dark rock peak not far left of Serra 3.

Note the high-tech Trapper Nelson packs and the wooden ice-axes.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Somewhere in those two views above lies my partners BD Rage. Levered out his holster on descent of Serra 5. Archeological treasure for some future historian as it melts out of the Radiant glacier.
Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
Sounds like the beginning of a fine tale, Tricouni. Please...tell us more.

For instance, how did you get to the Scimitar to get started....?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Awesome picture Glenn!

Tell us more!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
For Harry

thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 22, 2012 - 12:10am PT
Lists that contain Serra 5:
British Columbia 11,000-foot Peaks (Unranked)

This peak has no ascents by registered Peakbagger.com members.

Looks like the FPBMA is still up for grabs. Sweet!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 12:46am PT
Nice pic Tricouni, yes how did you approach the Scimitar.Anymore pics by chance?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 01:08am PT
I'll see if I can dig up more pics. They'll have to be scanned.

We flew into the Scimitar by ski plane. The plane was a modified Super-Cub, NZU, owned by Roy Mason. (Roy was an honourary member of the BCMC, started the original push to make the Stein Valley a Provincial Park, and did some good first ascents (Mt. Matier probably being the best known).

No, in our minds, then and now, it wasn't cheating to fly in (John Clarke flew into places, too). And, if it was, we did our time by eventually backpacking over to the Bell-Remote area (difficult, in places), eventually backpacking into the Pantheon Range (first exploration) and backpacking out, 6 weeks after we landed, to Bluff Lake. Tough trip, crappy weather that summer, worst since 1954.
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