The Coast Range B.C./Mt Bute/Waddington etc.

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guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 7, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
Christ Anders don't you have anything better to do than fact check all my postings. Perhaps I can run everything through your data base next time. "It's the truth, even if it never happened it's the truth." LOL

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:15am PT
I am really interested in seeing trip reports and photos of the Waddington and other ranges to the north.It's so wild and remote by todays standards and still full of gems.Hopefully the explosion of new routing in Squamish will spread to these amazing places.I'd like to do a more in depth trip report with pics but don't have the time right now so here is a quicky slideshow of a ski-climbing trip across the Monarch Icecap.We had a great time but my memory of the ridiculous packs we carried has never left me. I vowed never to combine ski trips with technical mountaineering as there is tooo much stuff.It would be interesting to see how much weight you could save with the latest light weight gear available today compared to the gear of 1983(that we thought was the latest and greatest). I was 21 at the time and only in BC for 3 years at that point. After seeing places like this I realized BC was the place for me. Hamilton and the coke ovens of Dofasco were a distant memory.

It's better to watch right on Youtube on the large screen as full screen is poor quality.Some photos credited to Wayne Saunders.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:32am PT
Snychro, if you live in Comox, and want granite, why not just bop across the inlet to Powell River? You've got the equivalent of about five Squamish Chiefs just a few hours away.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
How come nobody called daRockies THE ROCKY RANGE but they think it's fine to call the Coast Mountains the "Coast Range"

grr
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
Nope it got too hot and Bruce pulled the plug and went home to Golden... I'm sitting around with a week off and no partners. May go back to work and reschedule holidays for a cooler week.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
Anyways back to the Coast Mountains theme:

Climbed this rig during the smoky summer of 2004. Around 30 pitches to 5.8 and moderately steep snow with one icy mixed chimney thing.

















Lots more to do in that area, even though the rock is not granite.

Across the way on Ratcliff there's a nice line too:



Tricouni if I read the journals right you were laid up sick in camp after eating rancid bacon while your pals scooped the FA of this one?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
Not Moore. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
Naw it's Talchako, two or three ranges over
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 6, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
Tricouni if I read the journals right you were laid up sick in camp after eating rancid bacon while your pals scooped the FA of this one?

Yeah, I was pretty sick that day and the day before. Don't think I got out of the tent except for a quick barf. Upset to miss the FA, but we couldn't spare the extra day to wait for me, because we were getting low on food and it was stil a 4-day pack out to the road.

Here's a picture of Ratcliff (centre) and Talchako (big pyramid on the right) taken the day before, June 15, 1962. Dick and Ashlyn climbed Ratcliff by the right hand skyline.

Ratcliff centre&#41; and Talchako &#40;big peak on right&#41; from rid...
Ratcliff centre) and Talchako (big peak on right) from ridge above Success Lakes
Credit: Tricouni
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 24, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
BUMP for the Coast Mts.

Some local sendage. Pacemaker on the NE face of Robie Reid I hear got its 3rd ascent recently... supposedly even more of the bolts are gone now than reported on the second ascent, sounds like the big rockfall scar may be to blame.

Also Tiara Tower near Mehatl finally had a second (?) ascent, south ridge 5.7
gf

climber
Oct 16, 2012 - 07:18am PT
http://www.innate-gear.com/blog/a-joyful-howl-into-the-starry-night
A nice blog post that among other things features some stories and photos from a coast range trip
More can be found here
http://rockclimberjasmin.blogspot.tw/2012/09/normal-0-false-false-false-en-us-ja-x.html
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:16am PT
Great link Greg, brings back memories with yourself and Jim.Just got back from John Clarke night at VIMFF so I'd though I would post some pics of the coast range as it was so great to see so many slides of his amazing travels.Some of the more notable climbers I saw there were Martin and Esther Kafer,Don Serl,John Baldwin,Oplopanax and of course the Mighty hiker.Of course I'm hoping that there will be a flood of other pic postings as there are so few pics of this large and amazing area on this thread.
Monarch ice cap  <br/>
All pics in my post were taken by myself,Brian Gavi...
Monarch ice cap
All pics in my post were taken by myself,Brian Gavin, Randy Enomoto or Wayne Saunders. We swapped pics at the end of trips and it's so long ago I don't know who's is who.
Mt. Cerberus
Mt. Cerberus
Mt. Cerberus
Mt. Cerberus
Mt. Satan
Mt. Satan
Monarch ice cap with Mt. Monarch in background.
Monarch ice cap with Mt. Monarch in background.
Lower ridge of Mt. Cerberus
Lower ridge of Mt. Cerberus
Mt.Waddington from Plummer hut area.
Mt.Waddington from Plummer hut area.
Skywalk buttress of Mt. Combatant.
Skywalk buttress of Mt. Combatant.
The big guy casts a shadow on the horizon
The big guy casts a shadow on the horizon
Top of Mt. Combatant
Top of Mt. Combatant
NW summit of Mt. Waddington
NW summit of Mt. Waddington
Main summit of Mt. Waddington from NW summit.
Main summit of Mt. Waddington from NW summit.
The Tooth.
The Tooth.
The tiny summit of Mt. Waddington.
The tiny summit of Mt. Waddington.
Rapping down to the notch.
Rapping down to the notch.
gf

climber
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:50am PT
Now that is a set of photos harry! nicely done!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 18, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Thanks for sharing those awesome picture Harry!

Awesome links Greg. I met Jasmin at the top of elcap, her and Evan insisted helping us carry soaking wet gear down from my epic.

Very nice people.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Nov 18, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
From 2004
Serra V
Serra V
Credit: climblight
Tom Descending from Serra V

Serra V summit
Serra V summit
Credit: climblight
Waddington from Serra V summit
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Great action shots Bruce. I'm guessing that shot of Mike down is around '89 and Jean, where she at these days. Thanks for sharing. Thanks to climblight also. I guess your next Drew.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Wow guys amazing shots! I can't believe I missed this thread!!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
Fab pix all !!!! I think that pic of MD is from earlier than '89. :-)

Love to know if he does, in fact, lurk. That would be hilarious.

Jean is a schoolteacher in town here. Saw her on the street the other day ( me in the car; her on foot - didn't get much of a chance to talk......dammit ) but she looks fabulous. OF course.

If any of you guys have her email , would you be so kind as to send it to me? I asked her for it in passing that day but obvs got it wrong.........sheesh.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Looks like some great adventuring! Does all the sunshine make those glaciers so big?
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Wow great photos and stories, glad this was resurrected, I hope it continues.

I spent the summer listening to epic Coast Range stories from members of the Heathens Mountaineers Club. They did a big trip into Tidemann Combatant area and theres talk of another in the near future. I'm gonna throw my name in for a spot in the heli
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