The Coast Range B.C./Mt Bute/Waddington etc.

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Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:03am PT
Wands! I think I remember taking wands in there a couple of times as well but I think these days the first move out of the col is a quick call to Mike King like you're hailing a taxi .... unfortunately it can be a bit like trying to find a taxi out of a particularly nasty part of town, with nasty consequences if you aren't successful. Carl Diedrich had a pretty funny tale along those lines involving a bear on the Scimitar!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:21am PT
Carl Diedrich had a pretty funny tale along those lines involving a bear on the Scimitar!

That was a good one. He called it "This ain't the Cascades, Jack!" I published it in the CAJ, and somehow talked Tami into doing some illustration for it. I'll try to dig out the story and put it up on this thread. Anybody know what Carl is up to these days? He actually did a bunch of trips up into the ranges around the Wadd area in the late 80s/early 90s.

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 22, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
haha David, after reading Bruce's post and before reading yours I remember "Ohphuck THAT story". It's actually better then the story of Mike 'n' John and the wolverines. Do try find it & put it up here. Gnarly tale.

I took wands into the Wadd when I went in with Barb C in '85 .
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
Dick and I could definitely have used wands in 1964.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
I bet the Radiant glacier could be a lot of fun in a white out!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
I bet the Radiant glacier could be a lot of fun in a white out!

Very, very spooky. We were lucky it cleared when it did.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
Preparing for battle in the Radiant.  Choss pile in back ground.
Preparing for battle in the Radiant. Choss pile in back ground.
Credit: Bruce Kay

This story? This is a little snippet from a long forgotten Alpinist article that Surly Don was commissioned to do, and I somehow got involved. Either way it moldered away in the files until Tami suddenly blurted out "Phukkin' story" or what ever it was her potty mouth projectiled into the stratosphere. It is in the hut log and then the CAJ and now the elevated pages of the Stupor Torpor Journal:


Grizzlies on Wadd

Another couple of Coast range stalwarts, Carl Diedrich and Guy Davis, described a similar desperate retreat to the Plummer hut and its life sustaining supply of rice and mouse droppings. This one started at the Wadd / Combatant col and happened before the days of snapping your fingers at Mike King like it's downtown Manhattan and being wisked off to the gala ball. Cut off from the Tiedemann glacier by a common sense assessment of the objective hazards, their route involved a long circuitous descent into the grizzly infested trough of the Scimitar glacier. Grizzlies are like large wolverines, but tend to be more interested in you than what's on your back. Again, we pick up the tale as told straight out of the Hut Log. The Lads, weary and laden with towering packs, stumble upon a massive pile of steaming bear scat on the glacier.... and shortly thereafter, a bear:


"F-F-F-F-F*#k C-C-Carl, there's a f*#king bear." I manage to jitter out. At first we could only see the bear's head as it peered at us from behind a ridge in the moraine, but quickly it made its way toward us. It was only 50 yrds away.

"Dump your pack and run!" Carl exclaims. At the moment we were carrying axes and crampons in our hands as we had just gotten off the ice onto the moraine. As if I had done it everyday for a year I eject everything. My pack plops off behind me and my axe and crampons hit the ground after I had taken ten steps.

"Climb that boulder." We both clamber up hoping we left the bear way behind. The beast strolls along after us, still only 50 yrds away.

"We're screwed man, we have no warm clothing." We wore only our sweaty trudging gear.

"Just think mellow, man. He'll go away, just think mellow." I whisper more to assure myself than anything. "Just think positive vibes - he'll leave us alone." I realized I was sounding like a freak and Carl gave me one of those "what are you rambling about" looks.

The bear stops advancing and disappears behind a boulder.

"OK let's make a run for our packs and head back up the glacier!"

We sprint to our packs - I have mine on and I'm clasping my waist belt when Carl goes screaming by me at top bear-sprint speed - the look on his face speaks for itself; Here comes the bear again. I eject again and follow Carl past our first boulder to a second bigger one. We scramble above. The bear keeps its 50 yrd stand off, but this time goes to our packs and starts sniffing.

"Now we really are screwed. He's going to shred through our packs - eat everything he can find and then wait for us." Carl says.

"Just think mellow, man, mellow." There I go again - obviously my terror was too much for my conscious mind to bear so my psyche went into some kind of mental shock.

We didn't say much while the bear sniffed at our packs - we were too busy imagining our inevitable demise. My imagination raced "1001 Ways to be Killed by a Bear." Ripped out wind pipe, wacked off head, just generally ripped to death. There seemed no end to the possibilities.

Then without warning the bear turned and slowly walked out of sight down the glacier. Again we slithered off the boulder, snuck to our packs, pulled them on and made our way back up the Radiant glacier. Before we had our first encounter of a bear kind, our feet hurt, our legs ached and our backs were shot, but now we raced up the glacier with renewed vigor. It's incredible what a bear will do for your energy and motivational level.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Bahahaha, that story is great!

Bump for some more.

Stoked to see Peter Crofts presentation tonight of the first full mountaineering traverse of the Waddington Range, with Greg Foweraker and Don Serl!!!

MH2

climber
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
Makes Red Bull look like chamomile tea.
gf

climber
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
hey bruce did anyone ever climb that butt on the left or the main feature to the right -i took a look at it once but felt that the crack systems were likely going to not loan themselves to speed -what say you?
g
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
You mean that choss pile? Aint no cracks on that. Nothing but moss.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
That's not the buttress you're looking for, folks. Move along, please.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
Credit: Tricouni

Any guesses as to this one? It should be pretty easy.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
I'm going to go way out on a limb and say Gilbert. That would be the Cleaver up front with the DWMC "Leave it to Cleaver" A melvin Fish / Scott Fulafahl coast range classic. Yep I'm sure of it.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
I dug a little bit to find some spire pics for Harry

Edwards Range - Musk Ok, Walrus Tusks etc
Edwards Range - Musk Ok, Walrus Tusks etc
Credit: Oplopanax

Arjuna in the cloud with Nyland and Horn behind
Arjuna in the cloud with Nyland and Horn behind
Credit: Oplopanax

Borealis Pks
Borealis Pks
Credit: Oplopanax

And across the way you have this thing

Saugstad. This thing is gnarly. Richard showed us skid tracks where he...
Saugstad. This thing is gnarly. Richard showed us skid tracks where he had landed on the summit though. Might be the best way off...
Credit: Oplopanax
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
Preparing for battle in the Radiant. Choss pile in back ground
Is that the bottom of Hickson your talking about Bruce or something else. Thanks Drew it looks like a very cool area and with grizzlies I'm sure.Tami that ws the same year I was in there.I remember having supper in Tatlayoko lake on the way home and Peter was there also. Were you and Barb at that dinner too as I vaguely remember some woman folk.
Credit: harryhotdog
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 23, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Barb left for the Rockies so she wasn't at Tatlayoko Lk for supper. I was there, however, as I returned to the Coast with Peter & the others.

Won't go into it but not a really happy time for me.........
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 23, 2012 - 01:01am PT
My Canuckian bro-in-law is here. I'm totally checking out his suitcase
but after today I'm not hopeful.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:21am PT
Credit: Tricouni
I'm going to go way out on a limb and say Gilbert. That would be the Cleaver up front with the DWMC "Leave it to Cleaver" A melvin Fish / Scott Fulafahl coast range classic. Yep I'm sure of it.

Bruce Kay nails it.

The highest summit of Mt. Gilbert is in the centre of the photo. The 1952 party climbed the broad snow-dome on the left side of the photo but were stopped from continuing from the summit by the black ridge of gendarmes visible in the photo. Some members of this party returned in 1954 and traversed left around the base of the snow dome (left of the field of view of the photo) to reach easy snow slopes on the south side of Gilbert which led to the summit. Both parties camped below the icefall just visible in the extreme bottom-right of the photo.

The two black rock peaks of the Cleaver "cleave" the upper Raleigh Glacier. The higher peak (directly below Gilbert's ridge of gendarmes) has been climbed by trversing up and over the slightly higher snow and rock summit to the left.

The lower peak has been ascended from the Raleigh Glacier by climbing the conspicuous, curving rock rib that leads to the col between the two Cleaver peaks. The north ridge (right hand skyline) was climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit in 1954.

Photo taken in 1971 from the summit of Mt Raleigh.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:26am PT
Peter Croft gave a superb talk tonight about the Waddington traverse that he, Don Serl, and Greg Foweraker did in 1985. In my mind, still the best thing that's been done in the Coast Mountains.
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