The Coast Range B.C./Mt Bute/Waddington etc.

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harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 20, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
Hey Bruce or Drew can you identify these peaks north of the Monarch ice cap.The pic is taken just west of the Jacobsen peaks. I was fascinated by them at the time because they looked so steep and jagged.
Credit: harryhotdog
Nice photos of the John Clarke areas Drew. It would be nice if he had a whole range named after him ,not just a mountain.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 20, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
WIthout looking at a map, it looks as if the pics are looking pretty much north, towards the Borealis Peaks, with the Nyland area in behind. Rugged country; still seldom visited. To my mind, more interesting than much of the Ape Lake area itself.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 20, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Please delete this thread, it is giving me much heartache!

Despite the pain here's the last one kicked up a notch...
That looks like the Grandes Jorasses in the back there.

Credit: Reilly
MMCC

climber
New Zealand
Nov 20, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
Jesus H Chrysler, this is superb. Keep it coming, please!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 20, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Isn't Mt. Arjuna one of the dominant peaks up there? Should be in view in that picture. Maybe the pointy one to the left of center?
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 05:57am PT
Thanks Tricouni, I was looking on google earth and the bigger peaks seemed to be around 9000'around that area and I just thought that the one sharp peak would be higher than that for some reason.Cheers
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 06:48am PT
BMACD how about some Powell river pics,eh.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 21, 2012 - 07:19am PT
Harry, I'm betting those are the peaks just south of bella Coola, I've never been in there but if you know Paul Berntsen he knows it all about as well as anyone as thats all his Helliski tenure and he's done a fair bit of summer guiding there as well. Funny how it is so unfrequented. I understand the rock isn't quite the best.

Ghost, how about that range just southwest of Bute?

Speaking of Bute, check out these winter shots:

Thats about 5500 feet of uniform 38 degree skiing into Galleon creek
Thats about 5500 feet of uniform 38 degree skiing into Galleon creek
Credit: Scott Flavelle

west face of Bute.  Lots of action there lately.  Hollywood, base jump...
west face of Bute. Lots of action there lately. Hollywood, base jumping... even a few regular climbers.
Credit: Scott Flavelle

Jstod - great to hear Mike still has the fire burning! Say hi would you? Mike was all over Bute like a bad rash for a while there. Tell him to descend from the clouds for a spell and spill the beans
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 21, 2012 - 07:56am PT
It would be very cool to know that Mike made it to the top of Serra V. There's a pretty funny tale of the first time he tried - 2 boys and 2 wolverines!

Radiant glacier with serra 3,4, and 5, Asperity, Tiedemann and Damocle...
Radiant glacier with serra 3,4, and 5, Asperity, Tiedemann and Damocles. Scene of the crime
Credit: Bruce Kay
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:39am PT
Isn't Mt. Arjuna one of the dominant peaks up there? Should be in view in that picture. Maybe the pointy one to the left of center?

Yes, I wrote Nyland, but I think Arjuna is correct. I'll have to get out my 1:50K maps and spread them all over the floor, John Clarke style.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:48am PT
Credit: Tricouni

June 15, 1964. Dick Culbert and I packed up from the Scimitar along the east side of the Radiant Glacier for an an attempt on Serra 5. Here we take a rest stop where we had our first good view of the big peaks forming the headwall of the Radiant Glacier.

Mount Tiedemann is on the extreme right, with Asperity to its left. Serra 5 is left of the "low" col; Serra 4 pointy rock spike) is to the left. Serra 3 is directly above Dick's head and appears the highest in this view. Mt. Argiewicz anchors the far left of the photo. The long, non-descript ridge between it and Serra 3 is home to Tellot Dome and the ridges above the Tellot Spires. The top of Serra 2 is just visible as a small, dark rock peak not far left of Serra 3.

Note the high-tech Trapper Nelson packs and the wooden ice-axes.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:22am PT
..........and in 1985 Peter, Greg & Don found some chicken bones in with your summit register. So in addition to them Trapper Nelsons and woodies you had some YARD BIRD in there too.

:-)
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Nov 21, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
Somewhere in those two views above lies my partners BD Rage. Levered out his holster on descent of Serra 5. Archeological treasure for some future historian as it melts out of the Radiant glacier.
Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Nov 21, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
Sounds like the beginning of a fine tale, Tricouni. Please...tell us more.

For instance, how did you get to the Scimitar to get started....?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 21, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
Awesome picture Glenn!

Tell us more!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 21, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
For Harry

Harry's pic with labels
Harry's pic with labels
Credit: Oplopanax
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
Lists that contain Serra 5:
British Columbia 11,000-foot Peaks (Unranked)

This peak has no ascents by registered Peakbagger.com members.

Looks like the FPBMA is still up for grabs. Sweet!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Nice pic Tricouni, yes how did you approach the Scimitar.Anymore pics by chance?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
I'll see if I can dig up more pics. They'll have to be scanned.

We flew into the Scimitar by ski plane. The plane was a modified Super-Cub, NZU, owned by Roy Mason. (Roy was an honourary member of the BCMC, started the original push to make the Stein Valley a Provincial Park, and did some good first ascents (Mt. Matier probably being the best known).

No, in our minds, then and now, it wasn't cheating to fly in (John Clarke flew into places, too). And, if it was, we did our time by eventually backpacking over to the Bell-Remote area (difficult, in places), eventually backpacking into the Pantheon Range (first exploration) and backpacking out, 6 weeks after we landed, to Bluff Lake. Tough trip, crappy weather that summer, worst since 1954.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
No, in our minds, then and now, it wasn't cheating to fly in
I was also dropped off on the Scimitar. I consider that flying into the mountains not onto the mountain. I don't know if they fly people up to the Combatant col but that would make me nervous. If you got caught in a long storm and food was running low,chances are you would have to routefind down to the lower Scimitar in possible whiteout conditions.Starting from the Scimitar means in that situation your just following your wanded ascent route back down.Thanks for posting that historic pic.
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