The Coast Range B.C./Mt Bute/Waddington etc.

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 214 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:21am PT
Carl Diedrich had a pretty funny tale along those lines involving a bear on the Scimitar!

That was a good one. He called it "This ain't the Cascades, Jack!" I published it in the CAJ, and somehow talked Tami into doing some illustration for it. I'll try to dig out the story and put it up on this thread. Anybody know what Carl is up to these days? He actually did a bunch of trips up into the ranges around the Wadd area in the late 80s/early 90s.

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 22, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
haha David, after reading Bruce's post and before reading yours I remember "Ohphuck THAT story". It's actually better then the story of Mike 'n' John and the wolverines. Do try find it & put it up here. Gnarly tale.

I took wands into the Wadd when I went in with Barb C in '85 .
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
Dick and I could definitely have used wands in 1964.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
I bet the Radiant glacier could be a lot of fun in a white out!

Very, very spooky. We were lucky it cleared when it did.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Bahahaha, that story is great!

Bump for some more.

Stoked to see Peter Crofts presentation tonight of the first full mountaineering traverse of the Waddington Range, with Greg Foweraker and Don Serl!!!

MH2

climber
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
Makes Red Bull look like chamomile tea.
gf

climber
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
hey bruce did anyone ever climb that butt on the left or the main feature to the right -i took a look at it once but felt that the crack systems were likely going to not loan themselves to speed -what say you?
g
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
That's not the buttress you're looking for, folks. Move along, please.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
Credit: Tricouni

Any guesses as to this one? It should be pretty easy.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
I dug a little bit to find some spire pics for Harry

Edwards Range - Musk Ok, Walrus Tusks etc
Edwards Range - Musk Ok, Walrus Tusks etc
Credit: Oplopanax

Arjuna in the cloud with Nyland and Horn behind
Arjuna in the cloud with Nyland and Horn behind
Credit: Oplopanax

Borealis Pks
Borealis Pks
Credit: Oplopanax

And across the way you have this thing

Saugstad. This thing is gnarly. Richard showed us skid tracks where he...
Saugstad. This thing is gnarly. Richard showed us skid tracks where he had landed on the summit though. Might be the best way off...
Credit: Oplopanax
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
Preparing for battle in the Radiant. Choss pile in back ground
Is that the bottom of Hickson your talking about Bruce or something else. Thanks Drew it looks like a very cool area and with grizzlies I'm sure.Tami that ws the same year I was in there.I remember having supper in Tatlayoko lake on the way home and Peter was there also. Were you and Barb at that dinner too as I vaguely remember some woman folk.
Credit: harryhotdog
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 23, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Barb left for the Rockies so she wasn't at Tatlayoko Lk for supper. I was there, however, as I returned to the Coast with Peter & the others.

Won't go into it but not a really happy time for me.........
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 23, 2012 - 01:01am PT
My Canuckian bro-in-law is here. I'm totally checking out his suitcase
but after today I'm not hopeful.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:21am PT
Credit: Tricouni
I'm going to go way out on a limb and say Gilbert. That would be the Cleaver up front with the DWMC "Leave it to Cleaver" A melvin Fish / Scott Fulafahl coast range classic. Yep I'm sure of it.

Bruce Kay nails it.

The highest summit of Mt. Gilbert is in the centre of the photo. The 1952 party climbed the broad snow-dome on the left side of the photo but were stopped from continuing from the summit by the black ridge of gendarmes visible in the photo. Some members of this party returned in 1954 and traversed left around the base of the snow dome (left of the field of view of the photo) to reach easy snow slopes on the south side of Gilbert which led to the summit. Both parties camped below the icefall just visible in the extreme bottom-right of the photo.

The two black rock peaks of the Cleaver "cleave" the upper Raleigh Glacier. The higher peak (directly below Gilbert's ridge of gendarmes) has been climbed by trversing up and over the slightly higher snow and rock summit to the left.

The lower peak has been ascended from the Raleigh Glacier by climbing the conspicuous, curving rock rib that leads to the col between the two Cleaver peaks. The north ridge (right hand skyline) was climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit in 1954.

Photo taken in 1971 from the summit of Mt Raleigh.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:26am PT
Peter Croft gave a superb talk tonight about the Waddington traverse that he, Don Serl, and Greg Foweraker did in 1985. In my mind, still the best thing that's been done in the Coast Mountains.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 23, 2012 - 09:35am PT
Greg, do you have any pics of the traverse? I wonder if you were before or after us on Waddington, I can't remember the exact date but I think it was end of July beginning of August 1985 for us.Were there any tracks on the NW summit?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
Yeah, I forgot about the Beckeys' 1942 trip; posting late last night on the high after the PC talk. The Beckey expedition is up there with the Wadd traverse, all right, maybe above it. Many people try the Waddington south face; few succeed.

Another one that's always overlooked is the 1934 trip by the Neave brothers. They approached from the interior and found what's now the regular route up the Bravo Glacier. They missed the chiimney route, but came so close to success on the NE face of the summit tower, all this two years before the first ascent by W&H. The NE face wasn't climbed until 1950 by Al Steck and Phil Bettler, and AFAIK has never been repeated.

They are great epics, all three of them.
Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Nov 23, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
Credit: John Scurlock

Mt. Saugstad. The crown jewel of the Coast Range in my humble opinion

Credit: from the net

The Reverend Christian Saugstad (my great grand-pappy)

And ya, Bruce, its well protected by the foliage..i found that out a time or three
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 23, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Of course after the Devil's Club, Slide Alder, Grizzly Bears and Saturday night razor totin' Chilcotin Marmots, those seracs and ridge flutings are cake !

More pics please Saugy ! ! !
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 24, 2012 - 02:22am PT
Nice photo of Rev Saugstad and his mountain. Photo taken from the east. FA party on Saugstad did it from the west, climbing the main peak and the lower north peak (near right).

Thanks for posting! More photos?
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