The Coast Range B.C./Mt Bute/Waddington etc.

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Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 4, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
My whole life growing up on the inside coast of Vancouver Island I can't count the number of times I've stared over to the mainland at the craggy peaks that dot the coastline. From the summits of many island peaks, on a clear day you can see deep into the coast mountains even to Waddington.

The other night I re-watched the Dean Potter wingsuit flight off Mt Bute and was blown away by what little I had heard about this remarkable granite peak. I found this route School of Rock, 50 pitches or so long, over 6000' of vertical http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/canada/british-columbia/2009-mt-bute-school-of-rock-by-b-kay/

How many of you west coasters have climbed in the coast range? Do you fly in up the coast from the mainland or water taxi? I've been toying with the idea of an old school sailboat assist into the inlet and bushwhack into the mountains but maybe I'm just a sucker for punishment.

What are the logistics of exploring this area, what are the hazards? What new activity has been done in the Coast Range? There's very little granite on the island here and apart from cragging in Squamish, my real interests lie in the alpine rock. I've been staring at these peaks far too long and its about damn time I got to know them a little more intimately.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 4, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
Unless you've got lots of time, I'd suggest flying in, unless you want to do some exploring in the John Clarke style. If it's granite you want, There's some stuff in the Raleigh-Gilbert area, Bute (of course), lots to do in the Klatassine area. Fly into the upper Tellot Glacier from Bluff Lake (heli), and climb your brains out on the granite there.

So much to do.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 4, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
How many of you west coasters have climbed in the coast range?

We all have. And a few of us survived. Most didn't though, so the right way to start this whole discussion is to channel Locker, and say..


Yur gonna die!

Seriously though, there are some people posting here who might be able to tell you a thing or two. They'll step forward, or not, but since you brought up the idea of starting from the Island and crossing the water to get to the mountains, you should start your research here: http://kobus.ca/adventures/waddington/index.html

That was one the most badass things ever done in the Coast Range.

And I think Rob Wood did a lot of water approaches, but I don't know him and he doesn't post here.

laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 4, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
I did the NOLS waddington range traverse years back....



The approaches suck..... We spent 4 day just to get to the to the first glaciers... We started on the inland side and went out the knights inlet.

We started at Twist Lake and ended at Canyon lake at which point we were took a sea plane out.






The view were amazing


Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 4, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
If you've been gazing across the water from, say, Comox, why not take a boat up Homfray Channel and do the NW buttress on Mt. Denman? I've looked at it for many years and never been in that particular area. Looks good, and rock should be ok.
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 4, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
Forgot I did a TR of my trip

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1030812/TR_Waddington_Range_traverse_w#Post1030812
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 4, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
Ghost and I know stuff about one another we prolly should not know but do nevertheless because of multi-day rainstorms.

True, and you can read about it here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/759442/The-definitive-Canadian-climbing-underwear-thread

If you read that thread a bit, you'll see that GF is in it. Ask him about the Coast Range. Bruce Kay posts here a lot, and also knows a thing or two about the Coast Range, and about Mt. Bute. Likewise Jim Brennan and Bruce MacD. And Hamie. And Tricouni. And probably a bunch of others.

In fact the depth of Coast Range knowledge and experience here is staggering.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2012 - 02:03am PT
Thanks for the insight all and the stories. Yeah I know what wet is, this has been one of the rainiest seasons I can remember and I've been on the island a long time.

I was thinking of doing the inlet approach and bushwahck if I can find some objectives that aren't too far from the coast. I'd love to get deeper in and climb some of the more epic peaks in the area with Waddington being a lifelong goal. I still have to sharpen my skills a lot before that kind of stuff though. Mainly I would like to do some trips out there to get to know the area, maybe scramble a few peaks before doing anything too comitting.

Besides the fact that I might end up waiting forever for a weather window that doesn't come. I was advised to be prepared for a long stay. Approaching by sailboat/ zodiac would be a grea way to negate having to haul everything as we could be out there for a month or more and just re-load on supplies from the boat between excursions.

I've read Rob Wood's Towards the Unknown Mountains which chronicles the slog in to Waddington as well as some beautiful other adventures. I'm still up for some old fashioned bushwhacking but hopefully thats not all I'd do.

Any of you got pictures from out there you would like to share?
bmacd

Boulder climber
100% Canadian
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:35am PT
All I can say is there sure is a lot of UFO activity in the coast range, and yes I got it on video
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:39am PT
gf reminded me that the dreaded Beckey may have struck on Mt Denman. No matter: you should do it anyways; it's in your back yard and you can the wall between the NW and SW ridges.


Extra points if you can identify the big peak with lots of snow in the background.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 5, 2012 - 03:00am PT
If I identify the mountain just to the right of the Camel's ass, do I win Tami?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 5, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
From more southerly parts in the coast ranges.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Big stab but I think it's Raleigh Gilbert.

Did I win the camels behind door number three ?

Sorry Tami, but maybe you get the horde of fleas that's all over the camel.

but Gilbert would be about the same distance away, if it wasn't hidden by other stuff. It's Mt. Alfred, at the head of Jervis Inlet. Really stands out from the west.

Bruce, that was indeed an epic that your dad did in the 1950s (with greats like Elfrida Pigou, Neal Carter, Alan Melville and others). Like you, I've had the pleasure of bushwhacking in some of those valleys, and I've got nothing but admiration for that bunch.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 5, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Luckily we have geologists and geographers, and other 'ists, to answer such questions. People here often say "coast ranges" as a generic term. The 1965 guide - the 'bible' - was titled A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, and may be where it started.

And then there's the Pacific Ranges...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2012 - 01:36pm PT

Dad had a "Trapper Dan" pack. Just as awful heavy as the Nelson. Not quite sure of the differences. Tricouni or hamie might be familiar with this rig.

Actually, my top-of-the-line Arcteryx pack is just as heavy as my Trapper Nelson. Bloody heavy, all right. Never heard of Trapper Dan - must be a knock-off.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 5, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
I not only had (and used) a Trapper Nelson, I built it myself. It worked just fine, better than some of the stupid rigs that were available commercially back then.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
. People here often say "coast ranges" as a generic term. The 1965 guide - the 'bible' - was titled A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, and may be where it started.

Dick used "Coastal Ranges" to emphasize that the thing is not one range but many. Current terminology is Coast Mountains, in parallel with Columbia Mountains (includes Purcells, Monashees, Selkirk ranges), Rocky Mountains, and Insular Mountains (Vancouver Island, Haida Gwaii) as a first-order division. As a composite term, Coast Mountains is very appropriate: there's no single watershed divide (as with the Rockies or Sierras or North Cascades; many rivers such as the Homathko, Dean, have their headwaters well east of the Coat Mtns.

Within the Coast Mountains we've got many ranges: the somewhat useless Pacific Ranges, Fiord Ranges, Kitimat Ranges, Boundary Ranges, etc. Within these ranges we've gotlots of individual ranges: Waddington, Pantheon, Whitemantle, Miut, and other useful terms.

Coast Mountains is old (official since 1902). Coast Ranges is old, probably older. Climbers still tend to use Coast Range; geologists use Coat Mountains to avoid confusion with the geologically dissimilar Californai/Oregon Coast Range.
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 5, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
Going up the knights inlet by boat is possible and has been done look at this TR.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/860096/TR_Jubilee_Waddington_Knight_I

Mt Jubilee is climbable from the knights inlet but requires a 2 day bushwack from canyon lake up a "unused logging road" that is overgrown with alders. Then you have to follow the ridge line (bottom left hand corner) onto the Lomolo glacier this gives you options to climb any of the various peaks around that valley.


Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 6, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
Maybe you're thinking of a Bergens pack? My father has one. They were state of the art for the early 1960s.

As I started with the scouts, we had the whole nine metres - Trapper Nelsons, tin can cooking, etc.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Yeesh that TR was about what I expected, more time spent bushwhacking and less time spent climbing. I guess I was trying to avoid having fly-in be the only option considering my budget is only slightly above dirtbag status. As far as I know thats the closest alpine granite to where I live, save for Greyback peak on the island which is remote and has one route i think? Its mostly low angle.

Curse you mainlanders and Valley folk, I hope you never take your rock for granted. If you do, I'm sure a short trip to the island will have you crying for home.

I made a sad realization that as much as I love Vancouver Island because I can do everything here (climbing, hiking, skiing, aid, not really ice) most of it is just training for objectives elsewhere. The coast range (coastal ranges?) still seems like a beautiful place I'd like to explore. I'm hoping to make a trip over to Eldred for the cleanup this year (never been) and do some climbing. Maybe do some scrambles in the area to check out the peaks.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
If you've been gazing across the water from, say, Comox, why not take a boat up Homfray Channel and do the NW buttress on Mt. Denman? I've looked at it for many years and never been in that particular area. Looks good, and rock should be ok.

Just did some looking into that peak (as yes I am in Comox) and it looks wicked! For those of you who are curious....

Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Nope not CF although that's why many people move here. I've spent most of my life here, its not a bad place to be when the weather is decent. Rock climbing, hiking, swimming, mtn. biking, skiing all within a half hour drive. More stuff just a bit further, like Horne Lake but i'm not a 5.14 sport climber. We lack the consistent cold temps for good stable ice, but they say the ice is good for all 3 days of the season :P

The Colonel is definitely the heart of alpine climbing on the island. Although I haven't climbed it, I've heard a ton about the choss that can be found there. A friend of mine capped off an epic summer of alpine climbing by ascending the Colonel via the Culbert route I believe, which was the first major route on the east face. He told me some horrendous stories about VW sized blocks of rock and ice cascading down the gullies, pitches with 3 pieces of crap gear in an entire ropelength and no belay anchors. He also said it was the best climbing day of his life.

There are some cool ridge scrambles/enchainments to be had, but I'd have to do most of them solo as its hard to find partners that are interested. I don't have a ton of alpine climbing experience, but I am comfortable soloing up to easy 5.10. There's also the complete Elk Valley traverse which I believe was attempted by Foweraker and Croft before eventually being completed by some locals.


PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 6, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
Great thread! An ascent of Waddington via kayaking up the Knight Inlet has been one of my 'dream/nightmare' climbs that I've been thinking about for a long time. My first alpine climb involved kayaking across Leigh Lake to climb Mt Moran in the Tetons, and ever since then I've been intrigued with the idea of doing some Coastal mountains that way.

Somehow I figure the crux would be finding competent and dedicated partners who could spare the time for such an adventure. I mean, who doesn't like the sound of wearing crampons to assist in log crossings?! ;-)

I've even gone so far as to find some interesting looking peaks north of Sechelt that could be nice multi-day trial runs for the whole kayak-'schwak'-and climb deal. Maybe I'll put up what I was thinking for the trial peaks & Waddington here to see what you guys think?

I'll be poring over the links you've all shared. I had been meaning to look up the CAJ report of the Knight Inlet approach, and now it looks like I don't have to :-)
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 6, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
Cruising up Bute Inlet way via kayak and sailboat with our good friends Rob and Lauri Wood back in the early 80ish. Quintano was the mother ship. After years in the South Pacific this was a wonderful respite into virgin turf. One of the most memorable trips ever.

Rob and I had done a number of routes in the Valley in the early 60s and he was on the first British ascent of the Nose with Mick Burke. Rob and Doug Scott made the first winter ascent of Waddington.

In the mid 80s we sailed our boat up from New Zealand and spent a summer in British Columbia. God's country. The most impenetrable forest I have ever experienced.

Sadly Rob and Lauri lost Quintano in a fire last year but they are building another catamaran, so if you are looking for a ride up yonder in the future they may be able to help. Sorry about the quality of the slides but Sir Haan is busy with his literary career right now and I have to be patient.


laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 6, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
Mt Jubilee from the Lomolo glacier.

Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
This past spring and summer, thanks to my wonderful girlfriend and her family, I learned a bit about sailing on the west coast. I always wanted to learn and now I've finally started, I've always dreamed of owning a sailboat. The sailing lifestyle on the coast is amazing! It can be crowded in the gulf islands in summer but the scenery and adventure are great. At the end of last summer we did a sailboat/zodiac trip to boulder /DWS some sandstone sea cliffs. The result was one two amazing days of awesome climbing on incredibly unique features (I should really write a TR and show the pics). Although friable the climbing is incredible with potential for miles of coastline.

Ever since then I've been fascinated with water assisted adventures. It just so happens I read the account of Rob Woods adventures in Waddington and circumnavigating Vancouver island the week before my first sail.

There is something about coastal climbing that is special. The history of mountaineering on the Island has some great epics. I believe it was you Tami who told me the story of someone (was it Woszny?) that put an ice axe through his leg.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
Wow guido, great slides. When I was younger I feel like i took this place for granted but it was because I hadn't taken the time out to explore the coast past a few bushwhacks close to home and some fishing trips in the gulf islands. I'm so glad I have been able to experience some amazing adventures the last few years that always make me proud to call this home. I'm sure you're seen the sun set and rise on the west coast and it is one of the most beautiful sights on earth.
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 6, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
If any of you guys want recent info on the Knights inlet or other non aircraft ways into the Coast range I suggest talking to the people at the NOLS PNW branch as they send three trips into the range every year.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 7, 2012 - 12:13am PT
Rob and Doug Scott made the first winter ascent of Waddington.

Nope. The FWA was by Dick Culbert, Barry Hagen and Al Steck in February 1969, followed a few days later by Bob Cuthbert, Bill St. Lawrence and Les Wilson. The guidebook (2003) notes it as the only winter ascent to date.

(Possibly there have been winter ascents of the northwest peak, and it's often visited in spring, but that's not the summit.)

Hmm, didn't know that NOLS operated in Canada. Do you need some sort of permit for that?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 7, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
Christ Anders don't you have anything better to do than fact check all my postings. Perhaps I can run everything through your data base next time. "It's the truth, even if it never happened it's the truth." LOL

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:15am PT
I am really interested in seeing trip reports and photos of the Waddington and other ranges to the north.It's so wild and remote by todays standards and still full of gems.Hopefully the explosion of new routing in Squamish will spread to these amazing places.I'd like to do a more in depth trip report with pics but don't have the time right now so here is a quicky slideshow of a ski-climbing trip across the Monarch Icecap.We had a great time but my memory of the ridiculous packs we carried has never left me. I vowed never to combine ski trips with technical mountaineering as there is tooo much stuff.It would be interesting to see how much weight you could save with the latest light weight gear available today compared to the gear of 1983(that we thought was the latest and greatest). I was 21 at the time and only in BC for 3 years at that point. After seeing places like this I realized BC was the place for me. Hamilton and the coke ovens of Dofasco were a distant memory.

It's better to watch right on Youtube on the large screen as full screen is poor quality.Some photos credited to Wayne Saunders.[Click to View YouTube Video]
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:32am PT
Snychro, if you live in Comox, and want granite, why not just bop across the inlet to Powell River? You've got the equivalent of about five Squamish Chiefs just a few hours away.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
How come nobody called daRockies THE ROCKY RANGE but they think it's fine to call the Coast Mountains the "Coast Range"

grr
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
Nope it got too hot and Bruce pulled the plug and went home to Golden... I'm sitting around with a week off and no partners. May go back to work and reschedule holidays for a cooler week.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
Anyways back to the Coast Mountains theme:

Climbed this rig during the smoky summer of 2004. Around 30 pitches to 5.8 and moderately steep snow with one icy mixed chimney thing.









Lots more to do in that area, even though the rock is not granite.

Across the way on Ratcliff there's a nice line too:


Tricouni if I read the journals right you were laid up sick in camp after eating rancid bacon while your pals scooped the FA of this one?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
Not Moore. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
Naw it's Talchako, two or three ranges over
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 6, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
Tricouni if I read the journals right you were laid up sick in camp after eating rancid bacon while your pals scooped the FA of this one?

Yeah, I was pretty sick that day and the day before. Don't think I got out of the tent except for a quick barf. Upset to miss the FA, but we couldn't spare the extra day to wait for me, because we were getting low on food and it was stil a 4-day pack out to the road.

Here's a picture of Ratcliff (centre) and Talchako (big pyramid on the right) taken the day before, June 15, 1962. Dick and Ashlyn climbed Ratcliff by the right hand skyline.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 24, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
BUMP for the Coast Mts.

Some local sendage. Pacemaker on the NE face of Robie Reid I hear got its 3rd ascent recently... supposedly even more of the bolts are gone now than reported on the second ascent, sounds like the big rockfall scar may be to blame.

Also Tiara Tower near Mehatl finally had a second (?) ascent, south ridge 5.7
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:16am PT
Great link Greg, brings back memories with yourself and Jim.Just got back from John Clarke night at VIMFF so I'd though I would post some pics of the coast range as it was so great to see so many slides of his amazing travels.Some of the more notable climbers I saw there were Martin and Esther Kafer,Don Serl,John Baldwin,Oplopanax and of course the Mighty hiker.Of course I'm hoping that there will be a flood of other pic postings as there are so few pics of this large and amazing area on this thread.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 18, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Thanks for sharing those awesome picture Harry!

Awesome links Greg. I met Jasmin at the top of elcap, her and Evan insisted helping us carry soaking wet gear down from my epic.

Very nice people.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Nov 18, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
From 2004
Tom Descending from Serra V

Waddington from Serra V summit
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Great action shots Bruce. I'm guessing that shot of Mike down is around '89 and Jean, where she at these days. Thanks for sharing. Thanks to climblight also. I guess your next Drew.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Wow guys amazing shots! I can't believe I missed this thread!!
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Looks like some great adventuring! Does all the sunshine make those glaciers so big?
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Wow great photos and stories, glad this was resurrected, I hope it continues.

I spent the summer listening to epic Coast Range stories from members of the Heathens Mountaineers Club. They did a big trip into Tidemann Combatant area and theres talk of another in the near future. I'm gonna throw my name in for a spot in the heli
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
I got stiffed by a 3 day storm and iffy routefinding on this thing but would like to go back.


This big rig beside it is very nice too. Bruce Fairley and Brian Cruikshank climbed a route up the east face but the real deal on the NE pillar (right skyline) is still up for grabs.


And then to the south across Doran you have this range of granite spires where Clarke+Croft and then the Heathens have been scooping nice routes


The real good rock is on the south sides, and this pic is of the north sides. Sigh.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
Wow, as big Mike would say:

amazon shots

Some very cool stories too, beautiful peaks & looks like a bushwackers Mecca.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
Oops. Stupid auto correct...
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
I did a couple trips into the Niut Range in spring with Don and Gord Betenia. Some good times there too. Rock is mostly sh#t but pockets of solid granite can be found.









I sure would like to get back in there sometime. It's a great spot for spring mountaineering and a very cheap flight since it's right in Whitesaddle's back yard.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 18, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Ya but what time of year was it? I hear in July it's a real slag pile.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2012 - 07:29pm PT
So last night there was a special presentation at VIMFF on the new biography of John Clarke, by Lisa Baile. This John Clarke, that is:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Clarke_(mountaineer);
http://www.nsnews.com/news/John+Clarke+lived+climb+every+mountain/7558391/story.html

The book is called "John Clarke Explorer of the Coast Mountains" - which he most certainly was, with perhaps 600 first ascents from the mid 1960s to 1996. But also many first traverses, plus a lot of conservation work, for all of which he was awarded the Order of Canada shortly before he died in 2003.

You can read about, and order, the book at http://www.harbourpublishing.com/title/JohnClarke

There's a mountain named for John, which you can learn about at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WYMs7v0_B4

Also a 1995 documentary, called Child of the Wind, but it doesn't seem to be on the net.

The author, with the book.

MH2

climber
Nov 18, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
Great stuff.


Not having any of my own ain't gonna stop me (I did ask permission, a few years ago).





Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 19, 2012 - 12:21am PT
John liked to take 4 - 5 months each year, first for a long ski traverse, then for long foot traverses. As he commented, it tended to leave gaps in one's employment resume, although he often worked for his parents' stained glass company. Anyway, once he was in a more conventional job, and on leaving in May was asked by his boss "How come you work here, I own the company, but you get four months off a year?"
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 19, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
Sadly the closest I've been to Wadd is flying over it. The YVR to Terrace afternoon flight gives you some great lighting in the summer.



Going up you see one side and flying back down you see the other sides


Sometimes the lighting is very good

MH2

climber
Nov 19, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
Cool pics!!!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 19, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
Bruce - I clean them off with my tongue.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 20, 2012 - 12:08am PT
John liked to take 4 - 5 months each year, first for a long ski traverse, then for long foot traverses. As he commented, it tended to leave gaps in one's employment resume, although he often worked for his parents' stained glass company.

Here's something not really Wadd-related, but definitely John Clarke related.

It's true, he did work in his parents' glass business from time to time, but he occasionally also worked on a landscaping crew. On one of those gigs, his partner was a relatively recent immigrant from Hong Kong, whose main interest was clothing and fashion.

Those of you reading this thread who don't know John, probably don't understand the gap here, but John's idea of being well-dressed was to wear long underwear that had been washed within the last month. And his idea of sophisticated conversation was "I got a look at Pk 2,125 last year from across the valley, and it just HAS to be climbed."

So, of course, he told stories to his work partner. And the work partner -- whose idea of adventure was going to a nightclub featuring a band he hadn't heard of -- was completely baffled.

This went on through most of the winter, until one day, after yet another lengthy description of a climbing trip but with the added bonus of a description of a bivouac, his partner said (channeling John's imitation of a Cantonese accent here)...

"Ah! Now understanding. You sleep... IN DIRT!"

How I miss the man

RIP brother
Timmc

climber
BC
Nov 20, 2012 - 01:26am PT
Fantatic thread!

Thanks for all the great photos and stories.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 20, 2012 - 03:48am PT
Like the aerials Drew with that forming see through lenticular over the summit. It shows a great view of your route on Serra II Bruce and your shot is a good angle of it also.Jim has some good pictures of the south ridge and I have a little video of it. Jim has tons of great pics we just have to get on his case about scanning them.Yes I'm talking to you, Jim.Nice story about JC Ghost and that's not your usual butt shot.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 20, 2012 - 03:52am PT
Ya Jim!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 20, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
Real mountains!

Here's one from well above, of the Tellot Glacier area. The maintenance people seem to have forgotten to clean my window that day - I wonder how Dru does it?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 20, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Too often when we think of the Coast Mountains it's the Wadd Range and immediate neighbours. Or maybe Monarch. There are places in the Coast Mountains that make the Wadd Range seem as heavily trafficked as Chamonix by comparison. In honor of John Clarke this set of pics is from the Kingcome Glacier drainage. A wild place with some large rock walls and some amazing locals.

Upper Kingcome. Lahlah Creek on the right. Obvious wall is 1000m+ but disappointingly bushy on close inspection. Waterfalls partially out of photo on left are also 800m+ high all told but not very steep.

This one is 550m top to base, which is higher than Della. Wonder if it freezes?

Used to be a glacier, now it's a 5km long lake with a glacier dropping into it... head of the Satsalla. A very dark place surrounded by massive brooding walls.

You can see this waterfall in the distance in the last shot. The serac is about 40-50m high.

The wall on the west side of the lake has a crazy overhanging face that's hundreds of meters high. You can see this thing in spring in a pic in John Baldwin's ski guide.

The wall on the east side of the lake is the west face of Kolos Peak and it's 2000m high, although not all vertical. This is about a third of the whole thing, it was too big to get in the frame. Also pretty green. Doubt it will see a big wall team anytime this century. You never know though. Silvia Vidal might solo it.





Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 20, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Most of my pictures from that trip had a big orange stripe across the middle.
Jstod

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:48am PT
Mike Down - Prince of the Coast range! I keep hearing he gets out there. I bet he lurks eh?

I don't think he does! He does, however, get in there often (including twice this summer).

Here's one of him from three or four years ago...


harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:54am PT
Hey Bruce or Drew can you identify these peaks north of the Monarch ice cap.The pic is taken just west of the Jacobsen peaks. I was fascinated by them at the time because they looked so steep and jagged.Nice photos of the John Clarke areas Drew. It would be nice if he had a whole range named after him ,not just a mountain.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:39am PT
WIthout looking at a map, it looks as if the pics are looking pretty much north, towards the Borealis Peaks, with the Nyland area in behind. Rugged country; still seldom visited. To my mind, more interesting than much of the Ape Lake area itself.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:47am PT
Please delete this thread, it is giving me much heartache!

Despite the pain here's the last one kicked up a notch...
That looks like the Grandes Jorasses in the back there.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 21, 2012 - 02:04am PT
Isn't Mt. Arjuna one of the dominant peaks up there? Should be in view in that picture. Maybe the pointy one to the left of center?
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 08:57am PT
Thanks Tricouni, I was looking on google earth and the bigger peaks seemed to be around 9000'around that area and I just thought that the one sharp peak would be higher than that for some reason.Cheers
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:48am PT
BMACD how about some Powell river pics,eh.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Isn't Mt. Arjuna one of the dominant peaks up there? Should be in view in that picture. Maybe the pointy one to the left of center?

Yes, I wrote Nyland, but I think Arjuna is correct. I'll have to get out my 1:50K maps and spread them all over the floor, John Clarke style.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:48pm PT

June 15, 1964. Dick Culbert and I packed up from the Scimitar along the east side of the Radiant Glacier for an an attempt on Serra 5. Here we take a rest stop where we had our first good view of the big peaks forming the headwall of the Radiant Glacier.

Mount Tiedemann is on the extreme right, with Asperity to its left. Serra 5 is left of the "low" col; Serra 4 pointy rock spike) is to the left. Serra 3 is directly above Dick's head and appears the highest in this view. Mt. Argiewicz anchors the far left of the photo. The long, non-descript ridge between it and Serra 3 is home to Tellot Dome and the ridges above the Tellot Spires. The top of Serra 2 is just visible as a small, dark rock peak not far left of Serra 3.

Note the high-tech Trapper Nelson packs and the wooden ice-axes.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Somewhere in those two views above lies my partners BD Rage. Levered out his holster on descent of Serra 5. Archeological treasure for some future historian as it melts out of the Radiant glacier.
Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
Sounds like the beginning of a fine tale, Tricouni. Please...tell us more.

For instance, how did you get to the Scimitar to get started....?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Awesome picture Glenn!

Tell us more!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
For Harry

thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 22, 2012 - 12:10am PT
Lists that contain Serra 5:
British Columbia 11,000-foot Peaks (Unranked)

This peak has no ascents by registered Peakbagger.com members.

Looks like the FPBMA is still up for grabs. Sweet!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 12:46am PT
Nice pic Tricouni, yes how did you approach the Scimitar.Anymore pics by chance?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 01:08am PT
I'll see if I can dig up more pics. They'll have to be scanned.

We flew into the Scimitar by ski plane. The plane was a modified Super-Cub, NZU, owned by Roy Mason. (Roy was an honourary member of the BCMC, started the original push to make the Stein Valley a Provincial Park, and did some good first ascents (Mt. Matier probably being the best known).

No, in our minds, then and now, it wasn't cheating to fly in (John Clarke flew into places, too). And, if it was, we did our time by eventually backpacking over to the Bell-Remote area (difficult, in places), eventually backpacking into the Pantheon Range (first exploration) and backpacking out, 6 weeks after we landed, to Bluff Lake. Tough trip, crappy weather that summer, worst since 1954.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 02:07am PT
No, in our minds, then and now, it wasn't cheating to fly in
I was also dropped off on the Scimitar. I consider that flying into the mountains not onto the mountain. I don't know if they fly people up to the Combatant col but that would make me nervous. If you got caught in a long storm and food was running low,chances are you would have to routefind down to the lower Scimitar in possible whiteout conditions.Starting from the Scimitar means in that situation your just following your wanded ascent route back down.Thanks for posting that historic pic.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:21am PT
Carl Diedrich had a pretty funny tale along those lines involving a bear on the Scimitar!

That was a good one. He called it "This ain't the Cascades, Jack!" I published it in the CAJ, and somehow talked Tami into doing some illustration for it. I'll try to dig out the story and put it up on this thread. Anybody know what Carl is up to these days? He actually did a bunch of trips up into the ranges around the Wadd area in the late 80s/early 90s.

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
Dick and I could definitely have used wands in 1964.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
I bet the Radiant glacier could be a lot of fun in a white out!

Very, very spooky. We were lucky it cleared when it did.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Bahahaha, that story is great!

Bump for some more.

Stoked to see Peter Crofts presentation tonight of the first full mountaineering traverse of the Waddington Range, with Greg Foweraker and Don Serl!!!

MH2

climber
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
Makes Red Bull look like chamomile tea.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
That's not the buttress you're looking for, folks. Move along, please.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:00pm PT

Any guesses as to this one? It should be pretty easy.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
I dug a little bit to find some spire pics for Harry




And across the way you have this thing

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
Preparing for battle in the Radiant. Choss pile in back ground
Is that the bottom of Hickson your talking about Bruce or something else. Thanks Drew it looks like a very cool area and with grizzlies I'm sure.Tami that ws the same year I was in there.I remember having supper in Tatlayoko lake on the way home and Peter was there also. Were you and Barb at that dinner too as I vaguely remember some woman folk.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 23, 2012 - 01:01am PT
My Canuckian bro-in-law is here. I'm totally checking out his suitcase
but after today I'm not hopeful.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:21am PT
I'm going to go way out on a limb and say Gilbert. That would be the Cleaver up front with the DWMC "Leave it to Cleaver" A melvin Fish / Scott Fulafahl coast range classic. Yep I'm sure of it.

Bruce Kay nails it.

The highest summit of Mt. Gilbert is in the centre of the photo. The 1952 party climbed the broad snow-dome on the left side of the photo but were stopped from continuing from the summit by the black ridge of gendarmes visible in the photo. Some members of this party returned in 1954 and traversed left around the base of the snow dome (left of the field of view of the photo) to reach easy snow slopes on the south side of Gilbert which led to the summit. Both parties camped below the icefall just visible in the extreme bottom-right of the photo.

The two black rock peaks of the Cleaver "cleave" the upper Raleigh Glacier. The higher peak (directly below Gilbert's ridge of gendarmes) has been climbed by trversing up and over the slightly higher snow and rock summit to the left.

The lower peak has been ascended from the Raleigh Glacier by climbing the conspicuous, curving rock rib that leads to the col between the two Cleaver peaks. The north ridge (right hand skyline) was climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit in 1954.

Photo taken in 1971 from the summit of Mt Raleigh.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:26am PT
Peter Croft gave a superb talk tonight about the Waddington traverse that he, Don Serl, and Greg Foweraker did in 1985. In my mind, still the best thing that's been done in the Coast Mountains.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 23, 2012 - 09:35am PT
Greg, do you have any pics of the traverse? I wonder if you were before or after us on Waddington, I can't remember the exact date but I think it was end of July beginning of August 1985 for us.Were there any tracks on the NW summit?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
Yeah, I forgot about the Beckeys' 1942 trip; posting late last night on the high after the PC talk. The Beckey expedition is up there with the Wadd traverse, all right, maybe above it. Many people try the Waddington south face; few succeed.

Another one that's always overlooked is the 1934 trip by the Neave brothers. They approached from the interior and found what's now the regular route up the Bravo Glacier. They missed the chiimney route, but came so close to success on the NE face of the summit tower, all this two years before the first ascent by W&H. The NE face wasn't climbed until 1950 by Al Steck and Phil Bettler, and AFAIK has never been repeated.

They are great epics, all three of them.
Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Nov 23, 2012 - 10:30pm PT

Mt. Saugstad. The crown jewel of the Coast Range in my humble opinion


The Reverend Christian Saugstad (my great grand-pappy)

And ya, Bruce, its well protected by the foliage..i found that out a time or three
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 24, 2012 - 02:22am PT
Nice photo of Rev Saugstad and his mountain. Photo taken from the east. FA party on Saugstad did it from the west, climbing the main peak and the lower north peak (near right).

Thanks for posting! More photos?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 24, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
If we're talking "best thing that's been done in the Coast Mountains" the Devils Thumb group complete traverse (Haley/Schaefer), Kobus's Wadd by kayak trip, and the complete S to N traverse from Vancouver to Alaska (Culbert/Edwards/Millar) should also be on the radar.

Comparing Beckey and Beckey to Culbert, Edwards and Millar is really apples and oranges. Not sure which of those two is the "best thing ever done" in the Coast Mountains, but it's one of those two, IMHO.

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 24, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
Can't argue with those choices. The box of mixed apples and oranges and other fruit is getting fuller.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
Any guess on this? Coast Mountains, obviously.


Hint: it's not the Waddington Range.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
Any guess on this?

Cor fackin 'ell mate, that's bloody amazing.

I haven't traveled in enough of the Coast Range to know all that much first hand, but all the years I spent editing the CAJ gave me a pretty good idea of what is out there. But whatever it is in your pic is new to me. It definitely looks like Coast granite, but from where?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
It's coast granite. John Clarke never got into that corner of the world.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
More Saugstad: http://www.bcarchives.gov.bc.ca/exhibits/timemach/galler05/frames/norweg.htm
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
It must be north of the Skeena then

Nope....
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
You're good, Bruce.

How about this one? I think this will be easy.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
Lembert Dome?


But, kidding aside, tell us more about the Septentrion Spires.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
Lembert Dome! You're good, Ghost!

In the Pantheon Range north of Waddington Range, west of Nirvana Pass and not far from Bluff Lake and Whitesaddle Helicopters.

AFAIK, none of those buttresses or ridges have been climbed. The rock is granitic but I think it might be a bit shattered. Worth a look, though.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
My ex-wife and some of her friends did a ski trip into the Pantheon Range one February. I don't remember seeing that exact view, but there were a lot of pictures that left me drooling.

Some climbers younger than us ought to take this as a challenge and get in there...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Yes, they should. Won't be me, though....
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:10am PT
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:13am PT
Those spires are just west of Nirvana pass if thats where you were ghost.

I weren't anywhere near there. T'was me ex, lad, not me. I just saw the pictures.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:22am PT
That photo looks like on the the Septentions behind on left, with Pegasus on the right.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:36am PT
That's a nicely evocative pic. Sweet.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:00am PT
You've got me on those. Not Waddinton area, though, I'm pretty sure.

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 26, 2012 - 09:37am PT
Ok here's another excruciatingly tough nut to crack
I though I was ready for that new game show "Name that mountain" but I now realize I'm a lightweight! Since I can't identify yours I'll try to stump you with mine!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 26, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
Bruce's photo is from the Spearhead Range. Even better, without gondolas and such.

How come none of you losers was at the Garibaldi Park planning meeting tonight, at Robson Square? (OK, those in Squamizh and Whistler can go to the one in Whistler on the 6th.) It's important to go to these meetings, as you never know what's going on, and should get your five cents in.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:01am PT
I was looking through some old slides for some buildering photos that need scanning, and I stumbled across this. I'd forgotten about this wall. For those who think that the Coast Mountains is just big peaks and snow bumps, try this. Unclimbed, AFAIK, and fairly easy to get to.

Hint (the only one I'll give - it can wait for another generation, if it has to): it's in the Coast Mountains between the Fraser River on the south and the Nass River on the north.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:31am PT
BC Parks has ruled out any expansion of mountain biking in the park - it's in the draft master plan. But you can go to their website and express your views about it if you want - http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/planning/mgmtplns/garibaldi/garibaldi_mp.html
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:32am PT
The height of the wall is about 700 metres (2300 feet). It's higher than the Chief.

I don't know for sure how good the cracks are, but from what I can remember, I think they should be reasonably clean. Rock is excellent.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:24am PT
Bruce- you sneaky devil!! That last one is the end of disease ridge looking back at Blackcomb peak!!!! Doa is clearly visible. I love that left exit..
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
Bruce I was correct no?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Will yous guys STFU and post some more Coastal porn?
Dec 21 is fast approaching and I need to make a decision where to go first!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Bruce, I was correct first!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:29pm PT



Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 26, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
Bruce's photo is from the Spearhead Range. Even better, without gondolas and such.


Pretty loose description there Anders.....


Lol Reilly! :)


Here;






Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Another dang moral victory...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Reilly wants coastal porn. Hmmm....

Here's a good start:


And with that out of the way, how about:


Or:


(And yes, I know, I've posted these before. But that was in a story about underwear and disease, and I think maybe they belong here, too.)
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:52pm PT

Here's one. 1000m +

J.C. himself strolled past this in the early nineties.

He promptly alerted the rock climbers w/ photos and everything.

"Red alert" is what I believe he said.

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
At last Tricouni posts up something promising - that is a pretty nice looking wall. Pretty low elevation however. Greg is right to be skeptical. It looks a lot like Stienbok and we all know how the crack systems go on that thing. As Brad White put it: "Its thicker than a Nuns pelt up here!"

Well, I'll just point out that Squamish is at a pretty low elevation, too, a lot lower than Steinbok.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
I think there's some big granite on the north side of Toba inlet. I'd have to go digging through the archives, but I remember some shots JC took up there that showed a lot of rock.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
My Uncle in law sailed up to Glacier bay in August with instructions from me to the photograph cliffs. This is on the panhandle somewhere,was previously posted.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
Ooh... That second one looks sick! Lotsa sweet corners!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:31am PT

Hey Glenn is that snowy pic Ambition or that general area?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
Hey Glenn is that snowy pic Ambition or that general area?

Actually, maybe it's the NW face of Bell, now that I look at it again?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
Glenn, I'm not saying it can't happen, just that its way more likely to find moss and cedars and the lower you get the more likely you find them. Stienbok and Rexford are good examples of how high that shrubbery can go.

Bruce, I hear you. I think that wall will be shrubby, particularly seeing as it's in the Prince Rupert region (rainfall and drizzle capital of BC).

Hey Glenn is that snowy pic Ambition or that general area?

No, but it has enough snow. It's actually Mt Bell, NW Waddington area, from the NE. The north ridge is on the left; the west "ridge" (Culbert-Ellis) is on the right.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
John Howe/Blake Robinson appreciation going on here, especially between Ghost's pic of the Stinging Needle and then this thing:


harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 3, 2012 - 12:47am PT
Skiing,yes.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
Bruce the pic above is Salient and it isn't too tantalizing. Glenn can probably comment better than I can but the lowest rocks are granite and then the upper 600m is Gambier Group volcanics, according to the online geology map anyway.

John and Blake climbed up the buttress just right of the N face couloir after deciding the west face proper was not very appealing, it says in the CAJ
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
You know, I was going to say Bell when I first saw Tricouni's
photo but thought no it's some obscure peak that only Drew would know.Have any of you climbed it?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:09am PT
Knowing those guys up at the end of some fresh logging road no doubt

Needle Peak wasn't at the end of any fresh logging road. We got a pretty good look at the approach John and Blace used en route to Needle Peak when we flew into Mt. Sir Frances Drake. Had to be one of the ugliest sights in the Coast Range.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Why waste your money on a scanner when you can just wander around your house. Love it.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:26am PT
Bruce the pic above is Salient and it isn't too tantalizing. Glenn can probably comment better than I can but the lowest rocks are granite and then the upper 600m is Gambier Group volcanics, according to the online geology map anyway.

Salient (about 2400 metres, 8000 feet) is one of the more interesting peaks between the Deab River and the Skeena. It's at 53° 3'2.85"N 126°59'18.93"W and Dru is correct about the geology. I had a choice between going after it, or the highest thing for miles around, Tsaydaychuz Peak (2750 metres, 9000 feet), both unclimbed in 1978. I chose the latter.

This particular unit of volcanic rock tends to form steep walls and can be surprisingly solid. Same further north: in the Howson Range (pics forthcoming when I return to town) has solid volcanic rocks and rotten granite.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:28am PT
Needle Peak wasn't at the end of any fresh logging road. We got a pretty good look at the approach John and Blace used en route to Needle Peak when we flew into Mt. Sir Frances Drake. Had to be one of the ugliest sights in the Coast Range.

Ghost, when were you in Sir Francis Drake? Thanks very much for the coffee and chat the other morning; much enjoyed. I hope to be able to return the favour.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:35am PT
Ghost, when were you in Sir Francis Drake?

Summer of 1988. Full details were disclosed some time ago at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=759442&msg=759442#msg759442

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Tsaydaychuz - now that's a cool name for a peak. Perhaps the First Peoples had and have their own names for many of the mountains, rivers, lakes, and fjords which we've so blithely dumped names on. Often the names of people who had absolutely nothing to do with the place in question. Sir Francis Drake being a good example. Humphrey Gilbert may at least have gotten to what is now Canada, that is to Frobisher Bay on Baffin Island. Although that's a long way from B.C.

And then there's the distressing ignorance of surveyors from the English navy, who didn't know the difference between a fjord, an inlet and a sound. (Sadly uncorrected by the Canadian authorities.) Plus "named" most of them, and adjacent features, for their friends and patrons back home.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 4, 2012 - 03:18am PT
Tsaydaychuz - now that's a cool name for a peak. Perhaps the First Peoples had and have their own names for many of the mountains, rivers, lakes, and fjords which we've so blithely dumped names on. Often the names of people who had absolutely nothing to do with the place in question. Sir Francis Drake being a good example. Humphrey Gilbert may at least have gotten to what is now Canada, that is to Frobisher Bay on Baffin Island. Although that's a long way from B.C.

And then there's the distressing ignorance of surveyors from the English navy, who didn't know the difference between a fjord, an inlet and a sound. (Sadly uncorrected by the Canadian authorities.) Plus "named" most of them, and adjacent features, for their friends and patrons back home.

MH: This calls for a discussion over a beer or wine; far too much to discuss in one post. Maybe this weekend. Glenn
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
I'm a big fan of Lhilheqey instead of Cheam but I find the capitalization in the middle of In-SHUCK-Ch kinda awkward.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 27, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
BUMP. This thread needs more Serl.


harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 28, 2012 - 03:02am PT
Yes how about some good stories involving Don with pics.I think the retirement will be like the Who's (farewell) concert in 1981.[Click to View YouTube Video]
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 28, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
Don Serl's retirement/birthday party was a social highlight of the year. Here's a link to some photos:

http:///www.flickr.com/photos/21145039@N08/sets/72157631358703056/

(If it doesn't work, let me know. I'm still trying to figure Flickr out.)
Glenn
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
Here's my all-time favorite Don Serl shot.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Don specifically made me promise not to tell you Bruce.
Sad but true.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
Poor Yanks are probably still wondering why it's not "Mt. Butte" and "Mount Washington".
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 29, 2012 - 02:19am PT
Off thread a bit but sorry I missed the party at Perry's as I would of loved to meet all you scurvy knaves. I was intending to come up with Jim but then Mother Nature got in the way. After the snow on the 19th all hell(heaven actually)broke loose with hundreds of tree failure across Vancouver. Me made mucho overtime cleaning up the mess with the end result being 3 weeks of extra holiday for next year. This is the same kind of stuff but what makes this interesting is the look on Henrik Sedin's face after his Range Rover went up against a chestnut tree,he should of got the Volvo.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Dec 29, 2012 - 08:52am PT
Beautiful mountains, I always would have liked to climb Waddington. But I understanding the bushwhacking is horrendous.
Leggs

Sport climber
A true CA girl, who landed in the desert...
Dec 29, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
Jim suggested I view this thread... I can see why.
Great job, Synchronicity.

~peace, Leggs
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 29, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
I always would have liked to climb Waddington. But I understanding the bushwhacking is horrendous.

Serious misunderstanding there, Patrick. You step out of the helicopter a couple of thousand feet above the nearest bush.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 6, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
These pics were taken from Mt Troubridge nr. Saltery Bay the other day. Looking South towards Egmont.

Anyone identify them? Namely the sexy one in the close-up.

Edit: sheesh... can't make em bigger, sorry.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
Isn't that Mt Arrowsmith? Looking south from Troubridge you're looking at Vancouver Island.

EDIT: Looking east from Troubridge you'd be looking at Mt Drew (hey!) and more interesting stuff around Marlborough Heights. I know CAD did some stuff in there via kayak. I have an email saved somewhere from him describing it.

Double edit. Yes, you're looking east. That's the unnamed highpoint of the Earle Range, a couple km north of Mt Sumner. circa 1930m. Looks pretty neat on Google Earth - a lot like a mini-Old Settler actually. TFPU.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
Ha! Thanks. East indeed.
Earl Peak it is. 1938 m / 6358 ft.
Everything seems south of here sometimes.
Yeah, CAD was so proud of his trip to the Marlborough Heights.
FA of all of em' he said, on the way to the Eldred.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 10, 2013 - 07:43pm PT

Photo courtesy of Phil Fortier. I skied right by this thing one spring and didn't give it more than a casual glance. Summer makes it look way better.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
If you are sledding all the way to Athelstan you may as well go the extra few kms to this cave with the waterfall.


Right across from the pumice mine on the north side of the Lillooet, or somewhere between there aand right across from Affliction Creek anyways.

It is in a slidepath but what the hell. This could be the next Cineplex. Start in the way back of the cave (sheltered from avvies) and drytool out to the ice pillar at the lip. Right?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 10, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
I heard all the alpine tigers either went to Helmcken or are on the skin-shred-skin-shred treadmill right now.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 14, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
http://mount.ai/n/articles/long-white-line
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
Bump for the Coast!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 30, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 30, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Looks like some good spurt routes in that cave!


Ha!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 30, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Yes, I also want to hear about who got kicked in the Bute. Nice to see your follicle compromised head on the rock GF on the Squamish thread.

This is any easy one. Free beer at the Brew pub to the first one who gets it.


harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 31, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Clues. It's in the coast range if you forget about man made borders. It's also number 20.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 1, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2013/08/mt-bute-west-face-free-coast-range.html
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 2, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
Here's a minor bump in the Coast Mountains with an amusing name
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 2, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
Did a geologist name it or a British comedian?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 2, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Harry, did u guys climb with hockey bags so u could play shinny on the frozen lakes after climbing?

Looks like a sweet summit!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 5, 2013 - 03:14am PT
Tami wins the beer but could you pour it over Ryan for making fun of our super lightweight hockey bags. Ha Ha.

There is definitely something wrong with Drew's peak.
MH2

climber
Jun 27, 2014 - 07:14am PT
That really shows how much fun it is to take the packs off, yes? With a sea of fun in the BC background, too. Thanks for the high stoke, Greg.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jun 27, 2014 - 09:32am PT
cool lookin mountain eh
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 10, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
Very fine.
domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 19, 2016 - 04:33pm PT

domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 19, 2016 - 05:21pm PT
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 14, 2017 - 11:06am PT
Glenn, tell us more about Tsaydaychuz
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 14, 2017 - 05:26pm PT
This looks like Tsaydaychz, all right, your photo taken from roughly the east. Our 1978 route was either up the left skyline or, more likely, just in front. The peak has not had a 2nd ascent, afaik.


In the 1980s, Beckey went to do the into do the conspicuous snow/ice line on the NE face, but found it too avalanchy (or maybe there's an ice bulge near the top) and instad did something off to the right of the photo. The face looks good to me if conditions are good.

The NNW ridge (right skyline) also looks very attractive to me; the upper part (just a hint of sun on it in the photo is a steepish, exposed snow ridge that reminds me of the N arete of Wedge in Garibaldi Park.

Access to this remote area north of Bella Coola is nasty, unless you fly in as we did in 1978 and as Fred did.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 14, 2017 - 05:36pm PT
Here's a photo of Tsaydaychuz from the west, to complement Opo's from the east. For a peak that barely scrapes 9000 feet (2758 metres), this is a big mountain.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 14, 2017 - 06:11pm PT
For a peak that barely scrapes 9000 feet (2758 metres), this is a big mountain.

There are a few of those, aren't there?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 14, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
Just a few, Ghost.
Timmc

climber
BC
Aug 15, 2017 - 09:17am PT
Timmc

climber
BC
Aug 15, 2017 - 09:20am PT
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 15, 2017 - 09:33am PT
^^^^^^^ LIKE!!!!! (Like everything on THIS thread!)

ps
Were those props on a Twin Otter?
Timmc

climber
BC
Aug 15, 2017 - 09:49am PT
Reilly: Thanks. I believe it's a Dash 8. A regular flight commuting from Vancouver to Terrace.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 15, 2017 - 10:39am PT
Wadd July 24th

MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Aug 15, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
Good additions to a good thread.


For comic relief, here is one of 2 good-looking crags a 15 minute walk from a paved road.

I wonder if Oplopanax recognizes it.


Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 15, 2017 - 01:36pm PT
That looks a lot like a crag near Hope.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 15, 2017 - 01:38pm PT
FWIW, this is shaping up to be a big year in Coast Mts climbing too, with two new big wall routes in the Daniels River from the Powell River crew, the FA of the West Pillar of Monarch by Richardson and partner, and a bunch of stuff in the Klite/Headwall area done in July too. All of this despite Hwy 20 being closed for almost a month!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 16, 2017 - 09:37am PT
Chris Kalman and partners were in there for two or three weeks in July. Not sure yet what they climbed but he emailed me before for beta and afterwards to say they'd had a successful trip and climbed a bunch of stuff. I'm keen to find out details too!
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Aug 16, 2017 - 11:53am PT
Looking forward to
domngo

climber
Canada
Aug 16, 2017 - 05:28pm PT
What a range, eh? Never stepped foot in any of the environs but sure does look pretty from the air. Here's some more photos:





Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 16, 2017 - 09:05pm PT
...and a bunch of stuff in the Klite/Headwall area done in July too.

Of course, "the Klite/Headwall area" won't mean anything to 99.9% of supertopians, but, in case any of you were wondering, here's a google earth clue:


Looking forward to hearing the stories.
wanderingcloud

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 23, 2017 - 06:02pm PT
It's all on the list. As JC used to say... there are only so many seasons!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 23, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
Hard to imagine he's been gone from us for 14 years now.

But his spirit lives on...

wanderingcloud

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 24, 2017 - 10:03am PT
I would not say your are guessing wrong Tami. I am just a kid from the coast continuing to follow the contours up and down. Not sure where my mortal coil will land in the long run, but beneath a big perma-dry boulder hidden away in the coast sounds proper. Also Tami, or one of you many other coast range legends, can you call up Peter and tell him... "Red Alert...Red Alert..." the young Canadians are getting after it in the DRV, John said 3500ft, they're actually 5500!!! Assistance welcomed (wanted) [Needed], red alert, red alert!!!

Best,
Evan
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 24, 2017 - 10:15am PT
Evan -- are you from Powell River?

I ask because we'll be moving there next year.
wanderingcloud

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 24, 2017 - 10:47am PT
Powell River is home base as of now. I am sipping a cup o joe with the infamous Rob Richards as we speak. He sends his regards to you Tami. The torch is a strong one, we will try our best to keep it blazin'. Trip reports will come in abundance soon. Teasers for now.
domngo

climber
Canada
Aug 24, 2017 - 11:14am PT
well done guys. I've been hearing rumblings about attempts/forays into the DR in the last couple years. Must've been quite the adventure. Very much looking forward to the TR.

We flew by in early summer and snapped some photos of the range.

Dom

Daniel Rivers Valley.

Eldred Valley
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 24, 2017 - 11:30am PT
Hey ask Rob about what he climbed in Stave River while he was logging there please!
domngo

climber
Canada
Aug 24, 2017 - 11:49am PT
These decent granite-like walls NNW of Snowside @ Monarch Icefield looked to be quite quality. I believe Oplo or one of the elder heads would know but I think this the Desire range?

wanderingcloud

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 24, 2017 - 11:53am PT
Drew, Rob climbed nada in Stave aside from a couple high quality "boulders". Thanks Tami always super safe times in the coast! Wow Dom, you really get around the Coast, dang! Keep 'em coming.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 24, 2017 - 01:36pm PT
That's the stuff SW of Desire. Desire visible at far right. Bentinck Spire in far distance

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201013900/North-America-Canada-Coast-Mountains-Mt-Desire-East-Ridge
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 24, 2017 - 01:37pm PT
Dom you must have a good pic of Taleomey Tower if you're flying that route that regularly?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 24, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
Just browsed the majority of this thread. Super cool. The opening post piqued my interest in "a 50 pitch route on mt Bute" but the link was dead. Googled a bit and found some fantastic photos.

Glad to see some action out there. Magnificent looking place.

https://www.mountainlifemedia.ca/2016/08/school-rock-fifty-pitches-bcs-remote-gem-mt-bute/

kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Aug 24, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
School of rock is one of the plum alpine rock climbs in the coast range!

^ FA Jason Sinnes, Jimmy Martinello and Bruce Kay

I was super bummed when the ST admins booted Bkay from the Taco, and deleted all of his posts. Bruce shared a wealth of information and stories here!

I wonder if they had any clue about who and what they were banishing, with a few mouse clicks.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 24, 2017 - 05:06pm PT
I wonder if they had any clue about who and what they were banishing, with a few mouse clicks.

It was suicide by cop. Bruce says he's now comfortably free of his ST political addiction.

But I agree, his climbing contributions were first-rate, and I miss them. And him.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Aug 24, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
^ I'm in the midst of reading his most excellent recent book:

AUTONOMY, MASTERY AND PURPOSE in the Avalanche Patch

http://avalanchepatch.com/

Thanks for all your work and perspective on the subject, Bruce!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2017 - 10:45am PT
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71248/canada_coast_mountain_first_ascents_by_richardson_and_rinn
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Aug 29, 2017 - 11:53am PT
Good article, great news.
domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 1, 2017 - 02:42pm PT
Such a humbling range with a scale difficult to grasp at times.


Don't seem to have any photos from this summer of Taleomey Tower, My eyeballs always seem to be drawn towards the Monarch & Wadd region when we pass by. I'll have a look at hard drives from last years.


I posted this in the Culbert thread but here's one of The Princess, Page, Monarch, Queen (below), and Throne.


domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 2, 2017 - 11:12am PT
Found one dru

Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Sep 2, 2017 - 09:56pm PT

Hm, im glad I picked up the latest issue of Supertopo Live for my Sat night read.

Thanks all, for the contributions..

Hey Ghost


But I agree, his climbing contributions were first-rate, and I miss them. And him.

If you end up moving to PR you two just might be neighbors :O
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 5, 2017 - 12:49pm PT
I was hoping for some greater Scurlock-style detail.

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/94683006

Fred made the summit ridge but did not summit. No ascents that I know of. One of the few.
domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 5, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
We just flew by the range again today - here's Taleomey & Ogre from the west.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 6, 2017 - 09:40am PT
Thanks Dom, that's more like what I was lookin for

Foodeater - I pressured the Klite trippers but they are embargoed until publication it seems.
domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 7, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 15, 2017 - 12:32pm PT
Still looking forward to finding out the deets

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 16, 2017 - 08:38am PT
link? i googled and i couldn't find squat
wanderingcloud

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 3, 2017 - 08:35am PT
If you're looking for some deets on Headwall or "The dark valley" as they are calling it head over to instagram, Austin Siadeck has some awesome shots. No route info as of yet.
wanderingcloud

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 3, 2017 - 08:36am PT
Also, sick shot of The Dihedral Wall as Rob calls it. ;)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 4, 2017 - 01:54pm PT
I looked at the Instagram and so far all it tells me is they climbed some rocks but not Klite.
wanderingcloud

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 9, 2017 - 10:09am PT
They did not climb Klite. They put up 2 big wall routes in Headwall.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 9, 2017 - 10:58am PT
Best thread EVAH! LESS JABBERIN', MORE PHOTOS!

How bout you Cognescenti posting up some more secret Munday stories?
Those people were amazing.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 9, 2017 - 03:44pm PT
Tami, very nice story, and fits in with the Phyl Munday I remember.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Dec 9, 2017 - 11:50pm PT
I have a vague recollection that the Vancouver Sun inadvertently printed her obituary several years before the fact. But maybe not......

A lesser known fact: She was an expert in treating blisters, and had her own 'system'. No doubt a result of many years of rough and wet travel.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 10, 2017 - 09:15am PT
Thanks, guys and goils! I’ll grab me that bio fo sho. Living down here in LaLa Land I sure miss a nice stroll through the Devils Club. Probably lots better now with kevlar gloves and body armour available. Actually, did a wee reprise of such in Patagonia a few years back. They even have a close relative of Devils Club!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 30, 2017 - 10:23am PT
Way upthread, and many years ago, I posted some coastal porn for Reilly. But that post was made in the days when many of us were using photobucket to get pictures onto ST, and the pictures are now gone.

So, since this thread has been bumped, and Tami's talking about a trip we did to the area around Mt. Sir Francis Drake, and about gnarly approaches, I'll post two of them again.

Drake is the highest peak at the head of Bute Inlet, from its summit you can look down almost 9,000 ft to the inlet, then north up the Homathko River valley to Mt. Waddington.

This is looking South from Drake to Needle Peak. Around 1986 or so, John Howe and Blake Robinson bashed their way in from tidewater and climbed the big buttress. We flew over the valley they bashed up, and it is just coastal jungle the whole way.


Looking east from high on the north Face of Drake, this is what we could see.


MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Dec 31, 2017 - 09:04am PT
Very thought-provoking photos.


I asked Google Earth to go to Bute Inlet and did find a bunch of other named peaks around the Drakes and Needle.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 31, 2017 - 10:05am PT
Couldn’t work in Mt Sir Francis Drake so I went to ‘is ‘ouse and saw ‘is drum...

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 2, 2018 - 02:17pm PT
Peak and place names which might appear on Google Earth often have less credibility than presidential tweets.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Jan 2, 2018 - 03:14pm PT
^^^^^

Yes, not only do they transpose the names of the 2 summits west of us on Salt Spring Island, they mis-spell Sullivan.

But they do know where K Park is.
seano

Mountain climber
none
Jan 2, 2018 - 03:28pm PT
Kathryn Bridge's book on Mrs. Munday is a well researched and well written bio. I strongly recommend it for persons interested in Coast Range history.
Well, I know one thing that will be in my next order from the AAC library... Thanks for the pointer!
domngo

climber
Canada
Jun 22, 2018 - 11:59am PT
Bumping this thread to try and tease out some more coastal stories....


Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jun 22, 2018 - 02:52pm PT
Eh Ghost, you guys climbed the East Ridge or SE ridge of SFD, right? Got any pics of the east face, or of the west face of that thing directly across the valley east of SFD?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 22, 2018 - 05:34pm PT
Eh Ghost, you guys climbed the East Ridge or SE ridge of SFD, right? Got any pics of the east face, or of the west face of that thing directly across the valley east of SFD?

Some of us guys might have, but I didn't. Don and I climbed the big snow face on the North or northwest side one day, and Tami, Nikki and I climbed Superb Mtn and/or Mt Rodney (first or early ascents). And Don and Greg went off one day and did something more serious. Can't remember what it was, but it might have been what you were thinking of when you mentioned the E or SE ridge.

Greg is posting here, so he can chime in. Or you can check with Don.

As to pictures, I posted a bunch in "The definitive Canadian climbing and underwear" thread, but I'm not sure they're what you're looking for. There are more in a slide binder somewhere, but I won't be finding them tonight.
Timmc

climber
BC
Jun 23, 2018 - 08:11am PT
Current conditions of Wadd and Bute
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jun 25, 2018 - 02:50pm PT
how'd the face to the right of your line look Greg?
it looks pretty decent on Google Earth
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 3, 2018 - 12:21pm PT
Monarch, Throne, Queen from the plane last week. Lots of fresh up high.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 11:38am PT
The mountains are cool indeed. Nice eye for a line Jim.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 11:41am PT
Wadd on Saturday. Snow kinda sloppy most of the day, but the Chimney was pretty dry too. Here' sVance trying out a pose used by his mom & dad on separate trips 50+ years ago. We were, in fact, up there 50 years after his mom almost to the exact day.

MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Jul 31, 2018 - 11:47am PT
very cool
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 01:03pm PT
Nothing much to see there, move along. Certainly no huge rock buttresses or 63 pitch ridges or nothin'

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
Ritzy approved accommodations (not for us)

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 01:08pm PT
Not quite Valhalla quality gneiss
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 01:25pm PT
All these peaks with only one or two ascents ever, must be chosspiles. Far better to take a number for Diedre

Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
Jul 31, 2018 - 01:25pm PT
^^^^^MORE!!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 31, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
Why would anyone leave California to climb on those junk piles? It is obviously far more rewarding and important to make the 9,343rd ascent of El Cap than to get on any of those heaps.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Jul 31, 2018 - 02:03pm PT
Inspiring and beautiful photos, Oplopanax!

How about a TR? :-)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 03:49pm PT
Fern, Vance and I climbed the standard route (& official Beckey Favorite) over the July 24 to 29 interval. We drove up on July 24th and spent the night camped at the end of the Whitesaddle airstrip at Bluff Lake.

On July 25th we got an early morning flight with Jimmy, who flies for Mike, to Rainy Knob. Conditions were ideal. We built a basecamp, stashed unneeded gear, ate, and spent the afternoon reading and kibitzing. We got an early night, got up at 11 PM, and started the climb, carrying three-day packs.

Negotiating the Bravo Glacier at night required some intuition as well as info gleaned from a quick overflight while coming in to Rainy the day before. We got around most crevasses. One near the base of the east spur of Bravo Peak required some extensive overhead shovelling at its lowest point , on a mound of recent debris, by Vance to turn it from a slushy overhang to a more solid vertical wall. We hauled the packs on that one and got on top just at sunrise. Several hundred meters higher, we had to make a long horizontal traverse across a 65-70 degree shelf above another crevasse, where the lip had sheared off, to reach the upper snowfield. Easy scrambling and a snowslog got us to Bravo Col by about 9 AM. The snow had started to turn from firm to breakable crust by then, so after some crawling and knee-walking, we gave up, dug a snow hole, and spent a few hours napping and watching jet fighters do loop-de-loops up and down the Tiedemann and thru Combatant Col. Zoom, zoom. The sound of freedom! Around 4 PM we figured the crust was all gone, so we roped up once more and slogged through the slop to Spearman Saddle, where we set up ABC.

The next day the alarm went off at 1:30 and we left camp by 3:15, not wanting to start the rock climbing in the dark. We had firm snow up to the base of the Tooth and found a traverse across the lip of a randkluft to get onto the actual Tooth traverse ledges at a prominent brown slabby scar. There wasn't much snow on the ledges, just lots of loose rock, so we pitched it out to the notch, and to the base of the actual SE chimneys.

The actual chimneys had lots of loose rock and a little wet slush masquerading as ice pitches under the chockstones. We chose to take the Right Flank variation (169B in Don's guide) which provided mostly solid rock climbing with two avoidable rime gargoyle remnants to add spice. Two pitches of the Right Variation (which felt like 5.8 to me btw, or at least pretty hard for the advertised 5.7 but then again, we were climbing in boots and crampons, but mostly with bare hands) led to one more long easy pitch up the scree- and snow slope above the Chimneys and a 2 PM summit.

There was a Seattle/Colorado party on the NW summit at the same time, which was entertaining because they gave a sense of scale to our photos. We hung out on top for almost an hour (complete with a horsefly - where do these things come from?) before heading down. It was pretty smoky and we couldn't see the ocean, let alone Vancouver Island.

The first rap was 60 m to the top of the Chimney. We made another 60 to below the first chockstone but managed to get the knot stuck. Vance tiblocked up the stuck rope, unstuck it, and made two shorter raps - 30 m to above the second chockstone and then 30 m back to us. We elected to continue back down the Tooth ledges rather than the Harvard Notch line because it was so dry that there was substantial loose rock visible down that route and you rap in the fall line there whereas rapping and downclimbing the ledges traverses, giving one some protection. We made a couple 30 m raps here, then tried a 60, hoping it would reach the snow, but it didn't and the rope got stuck again, this time just due to slab friction near the anchor. Fern freed it up, and we made one more 60 m over the schrund and were down on the snow by sunset. We got back to ABC around 11 PM, for around a 20 hour day.

The next day we lazed until 3 pm and then set off down the Bravo. We rapped twice (from rock anchors) on the Cauldron headwall to avoid the serac-lip traverse, and once more at the overhanging serac, where we used a bollard plus picket to take a 30 m rap/cimb/rap shortcut through two overhanging crevasse walls and an intervening tottering ice fin. We got back to Rainy Knob basecamp at sunset, around 8:30.

There is a ferocious snafflehound at Rainy Knob. She tried to eat my socks but I'd worn them for three days straight in my boots and they stank so bad she not only gave up, but left our Mountain House and AlpineAire dinners alone too!

On Sunday, we hung out in the morning with two guys who had left Plummer the night before, made it to Rainy Knob by 6 AM, and after talking to us, decided to wait for cooler temps and more solid snow that evening before tackling the Bravo Cauldron. We got a morning pickup from Mike King and were back in Bluff Lake by 9 and back in the Lower Mainland by dinnertime.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 03:50pm PT
A big traverse on pickets across the lip of a serac on the Cauldron headwall. We rapped this on the way down.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 31, 2018 - 03:52pm PT
"Sure is smokey in here"

MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Jul 31, 2018 - 05:42pm PT
Thanks for the TR and the rest.


When I was looking into a possible winter ascent of the East Lion I saw Fern played the let's do it role.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Jul 31, 2018 - 05:59pm PT
Thanks very much for the well written report! You all know what you are doing :-)

Great "traverse on pickets" photo.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 31, 2018 - 07:24pm PT
This thread makes me want to go down to the basement and fondle my piolet.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 1, 2018 - 09:52am PT
Great job, guys. I don't think I'll ever get up that one, now. But I'm glad you made it and posted the photos. Smokey, though.

Could you see the rockslide on the Tiedeman, the one that came down a few years ago?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 1, 2018 - 10:20am PT
Yup! The Whymper Dome 2015 slide deposit. It's a big pancake. See it down there?
And zoomed in a bit


Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 1, 2018 - 01:58pm PT
Thanks... I'll have to compare your photos with mine (2015) and see how they compare. I'm interested in the rate at which it is moving downstream.

I had the interesting experience about 10 years ago of walking down the Tiedemen from about Whymper Dome to the snout and beyond. Sure is broken up down there; doesn't look too bad here.

Glenn
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 1, 2018 - 02:16pm PT
Here's a late July 2017 aerial too
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Aug 1, 2018 - 02:31pm PT

an aerial shot from September 2016
pvalchev

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 1, 2018 - 11:24pm PT
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 16, 2018 - 12:45pm PT
Looks like Earle Whipple has turned his attention to the BC Coast Mountains

https://www.kootenaymountaineeringclub.ca/mountain-info/guide-books/THE_NORTHERN_COASTAL_RANGES_OF_BRITISH_COLUMBIA.pdf

I see some pretty wildly inaccurate grades in here, but still, way more up to date than the 1965 Culbert guide
domngo

climber
Canada
Oct 22, 2018 - 10:42am PT
Just back from a lovely flight through the central coast.......


Any of yall visit the vicinity of Tezwa River on foot? Talk about rugged! I was also supremely blissed to see a grizzly for the first time from a fixed wing! Jeezus this is truly the land before time...

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 22, 2018 - 11:25am PT
iirc that's Tsaydaychuz behind and right of Salient.

Salient west face is weird. There's a geologic contact across the bottom of the face so the lowest 1/4 is one rock type and the upper 3/4 of the face is another. One's granite and one's Gambier Group and I forget which is which. You can see that contact in your photos.

John Howe and partner went in to climb the west face when the roads were driveable and ended up climbing the north face instead. Knowing John, that means the rock quality on the lower west face probably leaves much to be desired?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 22, 2018 - 11:28am PT
According to my notes, the bottom is granite, and the top is Gambier Group


& John and Blake climbed the buttress just right of the ice gully on the north face.
domngo

climber
Canada
Oct 22, 2018 - 11:33am PT
F*#k yes drew...Thanks for the info.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 12, 2018 - 08:20pm PT
It has been too long since this thread was where it belongs, so here's a photo bump to get it back on the front page.

neverwas

Mountain climber
ak
Dec 13, 2018 - 02:34am PT
Had some good views of the coast ranges on a flight last month from Seattle to Fairbanks. Used picture timestamps and Google Earth to try to try to figure out what was out there. Always wanted to see Waddington!
Tried to id the Devils Thumb, but not really sure.
A bit further north, just past Haines...

sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
Dec 13, 2018 - 02:22pm PT
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
Dec 13, 2018 - 02:24pm PT

20 years dreaming finally happened this year
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Dec 14, 2018 - 07:55am PT
trip report please!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 14, 2018 - 12:50pm PT
nice! you musta been there not long after us
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 14, 2018 - 01:11pm PT
You hosers have it so good! An embarrassment of riches!
domngo

climber
Canada
Mar 17, 2019 - 11:26pm PT
nice job sharper blue, looks pretty bluebird!

heres one of
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
May 21, 2019 - 10:23am PT
Oops.

MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
May 21, 2019 - 06:08pm PT
A photo for the ages but goodbye, Supertopo.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 21, 2019 - 06:21pm PT
Goodbye Flavelle/Lane, Twisting Couloir, Smell the Roses, etc

Are you sure the Flavelle/Lane is gone? I thought it was on the rib immediately to the left of the avalanche path.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
May 22, 2019 - 01:57pm PT
The bottom of that rib and the bottom of Central Couloir are both gone. I expect CC might still be climbable with a harder start as some of the mixed terrain at the left edge is still there.

There's also a brand new big crack in what's left of the Flavelle Lane so I think it will be the next chunk to drop. What I'm more interested in is if the next buttress left will go and extend the failure all the way over to Joffre Couloir or not.
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