The Coast Range B.C./Mt Bute/Waddington etc.

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 270 of total 270 in this topic
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 4, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
My whole life growing up on the inside coast of Vancouver Island I can't count the number of times I've stared over to the mainland at the craggy peaks that dot the coastline. From the summits of many island peaks, on a clear day you can see deep into the coast mountains even to Waddington.

The other night I re-watched the Dean Potter wingsuit flight off Mt Bute and was blown away by what little I had heard about this remarkable granite peak. I found this route School of Rock, 50 pitches or so long, over 6000' of vertical http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/canada/british-columbia/2009-mt-bute-school-of-rock-by-b-kay/

How many of you west coasters have climbed in the coast range? Do you fly in up the coast from the mainland or water taxi? I've been toying with the idea of an old school sailboat assist into the inlet and bushwhack into the mountains but maybe I'm just a sucker for punishment.

What are the logistics of exploring this area, what are the hazards? What new activity has been done in the Coast Range? There's very little granite on the island here and apart from cragging in Squamish, my real interests lie in the alpine rock. I've been staring at these peaks far too long and its about damn time I got to know them a little more intimately.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 4, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
Unless you've got lots of time, I'd suggest flying in, unless you want to do some exploring in the John Clarke style. If it's granite you want, There's some stuff in the Raleigh-Gilbert area, Bute (of course), lots to do in the Klatassine area. Fly into the upper Tellot Glacier from Bluff Lake (heli), and climb your brains out on the granite there.

So much to do.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 4, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
How many of you west coasters have climbed in the coast range?

We all have. And a few of us survived. Most didn't though, so the right way to start this whole discussion is to channel Locker, and say..


Yur gonna die!

Seriously though, there are some people posting here who might be able to tell you a thing or two. They'll step forward, or not, but since you brought up the idea of starting from the Island and crossing the water to get to the mountains, you should start your research here: http://kobus.ca/adventures/waddington/index.html

That was one the most badass things ever done in the Coast Range.

And I think Rob Wood did a lot of water approaches, but I don't know him and he doesn't post here.

laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 4, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
I did the NOLS waddington range traverse years back....



The approaches suck..... We spent 4 day just to get to the to the first glaciers... We started on the inland side and went out the knights inlet.

We started at Twist Lake and ended at Canyon lake at which point we were took a sea plane out.

Credit: laughingman



Credit: laughingman


The view were amazing

waddington range traverse <br/>
Taken from the West flank of Jubilee onto ...
waddington range traverse
Taken from the West flank of Jubilee onto the confederation glacier. Mt Waddington can be seen in the distance...
Credit: laughingman

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 4, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
If you've been gazing across the water from, say, Comox, why not take a boat up Homfray Channel and do the NW buttress on Mt. Denman? I've looked at it for many years and never been in that particular area. Looks good, and rock should be ok.
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 4, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
Forgot I did a TR of my trip

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1030812/TR_Waddington_Range_traverse_w#Post1030812
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 4, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
John Clarke said of the Coast Range "It is remote, rugged and very very wet". Sums it up for me.

You can get airborne and chopper from The Spit in CR or Beaver into the head of some inlet and start in the kelp beds. That's what John used to do.

Others who were, you know, more gainfully employed ( ergo less time to spend ) tended to figure the ratio of cheap:fast with flying ( e.g. where from , what machine ) and do that.

Kobus is gnarly badass. ANd the guy is a freakin' fizzix genius to boot.

But, yes, all the Canucks on this silly forum have spent time bailing tents in the great Coastal Rainge of BC :-) Ghost and I know stuff about one another we prolly should not know but do nevertheless because of multi-day rainstorms.

Honestly the best way to go is to get yerself hold of some of the maps
http://atlas.nrcan.gc.ca/site/english/maps/topo/map
........and sniff around to where you think you might wanna go.

Got lotsa time ? Approach Munday-style by kayak, thrash, ohsh#t, icecoreglacier, glacier, interesting route, summit and return.

Got no time ? Whup whup whup whup and have cash ready to give to Mike, Lawrence or whoever is yer pilot. Make sure you have your pickup figgered out. Be smart and have Extra In Case of Storm. You can always carry a satphone ( my brother does ) to call yer sister for wx updates :-D

Don't worry about Big Fat Routes but go out for the adventure. And remember:

Remote

Rugged

Very very wet.


All the best for massive wonderful adventures.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 4, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
Ghost and I know stuff about one another we prolly should not know but do nevertheless because of multi-day rainstorms.

True, and you can read about it here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/759442/The-definitive-Canadian-climbing-underwear-thread

If you read that thread a bit, you'll see that GF is in it. Ask him about the Coast Range. Bruce Kay posts here a lot, and also knows a thing or two about the Coast Range, and about Mt. Bute. Likewise Jim Brennan and Bruce MacD. And Hamie. And Tricouni. And probably a bunch of others.

In fact the depth of Coast Range knowledge and experience here is staggering.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2012 - 02:03am PT
Thanks for the insight all and the stories. Yeah I know what wet is, this has been one of the rainiest seasons I can remember and I've been on the island a long time.

I was thinking of doing the inlet approach and bushwahck if I can find some objectives that aren't too far from the coast. I'd love to get deeper in and climb some of the more epic peaks in the area with Waddington being a lifelong goal. I still have to sharpen my skills a lot before that kind of stuff though. Mainly I would like to do some trips out there to get to know the area, maybe scramble a few peaks before doing anything too comitting.

Besides the fact that I might end up waiting forever for a weather window that doesn't come. I was advised to be prepared for a long stay. Approaching by sailboat/ zodiac would be a grea way to negate having to haul everything as we could be out there for a month or more and just re-load on supplies from the boat between excursions.

I've read Rob Wood's Towards the Unknown Mountains which chronicles the slog in to Waddington as well as some beautiful other adventures. I'm still up for some old fashioned bushwhacking but hopefully thats not all I'd do.

Any of you got pictures from out there you would like to share?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:14am PT
Its a bit of a gamble with the weather sometimes, but really anything in the northwest end of north america is.

I find the best tactic is to block off a reasonable amount of time, wait for a bomber weather forecast (cragging in squamish maybe in the mean time) then roll the dice and fly in, or if the weather seems too dodgy go to plan B... the Sierras or something like that.

When you score a bulls eye, its as good as it gets!
bmacd

Boulder climber
100% Canadian
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:35am PT
All I can say is there sure is a lot of UFO activity in the coast range, and yes I got it on video
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:39am PT
gf reminded me that the dreaded Beckey may have struck on Mt Denman. No matter: you should do it anyways; it's in your back yard and you can the wall between the NW and SW ridges.

Mt Denman from our camp on Mt Hayes, July 27, 2010. NW buttress on lef...
Mt Denman from our camp on Mt Hayes, July 27, 2010. NW buttress on left of Denman, SW ridge on right. Homfray Creek is dark, in shadow, on left. Homfray Channel below.
Credit: (c) Glenn Woodsworth

Extra points if you can identify the big peak with lots of snow in the background.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:53am PT
Big stab but I think it's Raleigh Gilbert.




Did I win the camels behind door number three ?



:-)
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:58am PT
Tami wins the CAMEL !

(It comes with the Camel dude too)

Credit: Jim Brennan
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 5, 2012 - 03:00am PT
If I identify the mountain just to the right of the Camel's ass, do I win Tami?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 5, 2012 - 09:23am PT
By the way, google jason kruk to see a video of one of the coolest all land (and water!) based trips into the Waddington range in quite some time

I think its on his blog. It s a short teaser so here's what happens:

With Tony Richardson (Son of Howie!) they put into Twist creek in dinky little one man inflateables (half price at Canadian Tire) , up the Scimitar, up and over Fury Gap, very nearly do the FA of the south pillar Wadd NW peak, out toScar Creek (dragging rafts the whole way) float down to Homathko camp and tide water.

Woo hoo!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 5, 2012 - 09:34am PT
I figure that must be Gilbert as well. Right neighborhood anyway.

You could do the same trip my Dad did in the fifties: Up the southgate river, spin the bottle and pick the wrong summit on Gilbert, then epic retreat.... to get back to work on monday

Bonus points if you use Trapper Nelsons, cary Iron rations and chop down trees with ice axes!

Tami, ya remember iron rations?
gf

climber
Mar 5, 2012 - 09:45am PT
Now hold on bruce, you're channelling those damm CT shovels you swore by for so long. Those rafts were made by doug at feathercraft on granville island for Alpaca and loaned by the godfather of sensible design, Mike Blenkarn, to the lads. Take note of the swim club style hand paddles for navigating; brisk eh boys?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 5, 2012 - 09:53am PT
really? thats too high tech.

story ruined.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Mar 5, 2012 - 11:54am PT
Forgive the photo reposting.

Here's some pics from a perfect weather trip to the Tiedemann Glacier in 1994.

Tiedemann Tower:

Credit: Jim Brennan

Stiletto to Dentiform:

Credit: Jim Brennan

Temperature inversion on Dentiform:

Credit: Jim Brennan

Bravo Peak and Mt. Waddington from Sunny Knob:

Credit: Jim Brennan
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 5, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
From more southerly parts in the coast ranges.
Credit: Mighty Hiker
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Big stab but I think it's Raleigh Gilbert.

Did I win the camels behind door number three ?

Sorry Tami, but maybe you get the horde of fleas that's all over the camel.

but Gilbert would be about the same distance away, if it wasn't hidden by other stuff. It's Mt. Alfred, at the head of Jervis Inlet. Really stands out from the west.

Bruce, that was indeed an epic that your dad did in the 1950s (with greats like Elfrida Pigou, Neal Carter, Alan Melville and others). Like you, I've had the pleasure of bushwhacking in some of those valleys, and I've got nothing but admiration for that bunch.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 5, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
"Iron rations" ... no. I 'm trying to remember what my parents called their provisions. Everything they used was Army-surplus.

Dad had a "Trapper Dan" pack. Just as awful heavy as the Nelson. Not quite sure of the differences. Tricouni or hamie might be familiar with this rig.

Bruce your Dad was part of a generation of hardass climbers who did some really cool trips. Randy A's dad was also part of it as well. My parents did small trips but were more into skiin'.

Glad to hear Tony R is active. Isn't he a SARtech in the CF ? Or is that Howie's other son ?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 5, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Luckily we have geologists and geographers, and other 'ists, to answer such questions. People here often say "coast ranges" as a generic term. The 1965 guide - the 'bible' - was titled A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, and may be where it started.

And then there's the Pacific Ranges...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2012 - 01:36pm PT

Dad had a "Trapper Dan" pack. Just as awful heavy as the Nelson. Not quite sure of the differences. Tricouni or hamie might be familiar with this rig.

Actually, my top-of-the-line Arcteryx pack is just as heavy as my Trapper Nelson. Bloody heavy, all right. Never heard of Trapper Dan - must be a knock-off.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 5, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
I not only had (and used) a Trapper Nelson, I built it myself. It worked just fine, better than some of the stupid rigs that were available commercially back then.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
. People here often say "coast ranges" as a generic term. The 1965 guide - the 'bible' - was titled A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, and may be where it started.

Dick used "Coastal Ranges" to emphasize that the thing is not one range but many. Current terminology is Coast Mountains, in parallel with Columbia Mountains (includes Purcells, Monashees, Selkirk ranges), Rocky Mountains, and Insular Mountains (Vancouver Island, Haida Gwaii) as a first-order division. As a composite term, Coast Mountains is very appropriate: there's no single watershed divide (as with the Rockies or Sierras or North Cascades; many rivers such as the Homathko, Dean, have their headwaters well east of the Coat Mtns.

Within the Coast Mountains we've got many ranges: the somewhat useless Pacific Ranges, Fiord Ranges, Kitimat Ranges, Boundary Ranges, etc. Within these ranges we've gotlots of individual ranges: Waddington, Pantheon, Whitemantle, Miut, and other useful terms.

Coast Mountains is old (official since 1902). Coast Ranges is old, probably older. Climbers still tend to use Coast Range; geologists use Coat Mountains to avoid confusion with the geologically dissimilar Californai/Oregon Coast Range.
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 5, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
Going up the knights inlet by boat is possible and has been done look at this TR.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/860096/TR_Jubilee_Waddington_Knight_I

Mt Jubilee is climbable from the knights inlet but requires a 2 day bushwack from canyon lake up a "unused logging road" that is overgrown with alders. Then you have to follow the ridge line (bottom left hand corner) onto the Lomolo glacier this gives you options to climb any of the various peaks around that valley.

Credit: laughingman

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 6, 2012 - 09:52am PT
Never heard of Trapper Dan - must be a knock-off.


Another particularly viscously miserable pack design of that era involved a triangular
frame of solid steel round stock of about 5/16 inch diameter, loosely supporting a sack of potatoes style bag. For some reason, maybe because i was the smallest of four boys, I got to carry that POS rather than the delux trapper nelson. I don't recall the name but I bet it was WW II army surplus. We (us kids) called them kidney killers. Maybe Mike Blenkarn could rework it for Archteryx?

Tami, TR is a tech design geek at Archteryx, his bro (Robin?) is the sar tech at commox.

Also, Iron rations were the precursor of gorp. It may have been a "Mom-ism" but i think it actually came from the Mundays.

We used to brew tea in a "Billy'' too..... thats what you call a pot these days



Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 6, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
Maybe you're thinking of a Bergens pack? My father has one. They were state of the art for the early 1960s.

As I started with the scouts, we had the whole nine metres - Trapper Nelsons, tin can cooking, etc.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 6, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
hey Anders, what was all that about all those old guides having no integrity or something?

maybe on the coast with some people but never the case in the rockies, and for good reason
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 6, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
Bruce - Was that your mother's pack ? Because my mum had one just like it. Whaddaya wanna bet the gals gottem together ....or that the VOC acquired 'em and hawked them to the unsuspecting women.

A ghastly thing for sure. Lucky for me I never carried it. WOrst pack I was stuck with was a 5$ job we bought at the Esso service station. Orange nylon, "trapper nelson" type external frame, no zippers but weak tie-downs, no hip belt.... and never intended to be carried on a hiking trip , I packed that thing into Atwell Peak stuffed with my gear. Thought I was gonna die. My 3 friends also on the trip figured I"d never go into the hills again........well, I didn't with that pack.

Heinous Backpacks We Have Carried, eh :-D
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Yeesh that TR was about what I expected, more time spent bushwhacking and less time spent climbing. I guess I was trying to avoid having fly-in be the only option considering my budget is only slightly above dirtbag status. As far as I know thats the closest alpine granite to where I live, save for Greyback peak on the island which is remote and has one route i think? Its mostly low angle.

Curse you mainlanders and Valley folk, I hope you never take your rock for granted. If you do, I'm sure a short trip to the island will have you crying for home.

I made a sad realization that as much as I love Vancouver Island because I can do everything here (climbing, hiking, skiing, aid, not really ice) most of it is just training for objectives elsewhere. The coast range (coastal ranges?) still seems like a beautiful place I'd like to explore. I'm hoping to make a trip over to Eldred for the cleanup this year (never been) and do some climbing. Maybe do some scrambles in the area to check out the peaks.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
If you've been gazing across the water from, say, Comox, why not take a boat up Homfray Channel and do the NW buttress on Mt. Denman? I've looked at it for many years and never been in that particular area. Looks good, and rock should be ok.

Just did some looking into that peak (as yes I am in Comox) and it looks wicked! For those of you who are curious....

Credit: Synchronicity
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 6, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
There's always The Colonel for ya Synchro. Might not pass as "good granite" :-D

In Comox, eh? You in the CF ?
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Nope not CF although that's why many people move here. I've spent most of my life here, its not a bad place to be when the weather is decent. Rock climbing, hiking, swimming, mtn. biking, skiing all within a half hour drive. More stuff just a bit further, like Horne Lake but i'm not a 5.14 sport climber. We lack the consistent cold temps for good stable ice, but they say the ice is good for all 3 days of the season :P

The Colonel is definitely the heart of alpine climbing on the island. Although I haven't climbed it, I've heard a ton about the choss that can be found there. A friend of mine capped off an epic summer of alpine climbing by ascending the Colonel via the Culbert route I believe, which was the first major route on the east face. He told me some horrendous stories about VW sized blocks of rock and ice cascading down the gullies, pitches with 3 pieces of crap gear in an entire ropelength and no belay anchors. He also said it was the best climbing day of his life.

There are some cool ridge scrambles/enchainments to be had, but I'd have to do most of them solo as its hard to find partners that are interested. I don't have a ton of alpine climbing experience, but I am comfortable soloing up to easy 5.10. There's also the complete Elk Valley traverse which I believe was attempted by Foweraker and Croft before eventually being completed by some locals.


Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 6, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
Mr. Foweraker has a hilarious and epic Foster story to share. Hee hee.

He went in with Joe B to attempt something on the E face ( maybe the thing Joe, Peter and I had tried.........not sure ) . Under the E face and ogling it, they realized they needed iceaxes. Which were back in Nanaimo. So they squirreled their packs there, sprinted back down the trail, drove to Nanaimo, got the aforementioned item of equipment, drove back to the trailhead and started back up the trail.

Any of you who know this drive and hike know they put many hours of driving to get those iceaxes. The trail up the Elk Valley is , what? 13km ? I remember it being 7 miles - substantial even if you got long legs like Foodeater..........

Well it got dark partway up the the trail and the boys decided to bivi under the trees. Then it started to rain. Wx turned to North Island Foulness so they bid a retreat back to the cars.

Now remember where their backpacks were...........waaaaay up the trail somewhere.

Joe offered to come back the next week and retrieve the packs.

Or something like that. I"m sure gf can fix the details of my story .

Heh heh heh.........

PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 6, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
Great thread! An ascent of Waddington via kayaking up the Knight Inlet has been one of my 'dream/nightmare' climbs that I've been thinking about for a long time. My first alpine climb involved kayaking across Leigh Lake to climb Mt Moran in the Tetons, and ever since then I've been intrigued with the idea of doing some Coastal mountains that way.

Somehow I figure the crux would be finding competent and dedicated partners who could spare the time for such an adventure. I mean, who doesn't like the sound of wearing crampons to assist in log crossings?! ;-)

I've even gone so far as to find some interesting looking peaks north of Sechelt that could be nice multi-day trial runs for the whole kayak-'schwak'-and climb deal. Maybe I'll put up what I was thinking for the trial peaks & Waddington here to see what you guys think?

I'll be poring over the links you've all shared. I had been meaning to look up the CAJ report of the Knight Inlet approach, and now it looks like I don't have to :-)
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 6, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
Cruising up Bute Inlet way via kayak and sailboat with our good friends Rob and Lauri Wood back in the early 80ish. Quintano was the mother ship. After years in the South Pacific this was a wonderful respite into virgin turf. One of the most memorable trips ever.

Rob and I had done a number of routes in the Valley in the early 60s and he was on the first British ascent of the Nose with Mick Burke. Rob and Doug Scott made the first winter ascent of Waddington.

In the mid 80s we sailed our boat up from New Zealand and spent a summer in British Columbia. God's country. The most impenetrable forest I have ever experienced.

Sadly Rob and Lauri lost Quintano in a fire last year but they are building another catamaran, so if you are looking for a ride up yonder in the future they may be able to help. Sorry about the quality of the slides but Sir Haan is busy with his literary career right now and I have to be patient.

Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
running downwind wing and wing with a paddle.
running downwind wing and wing with a paddle.
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Base camp the Homathko River&#40;sic?&#41; river-Waddington "just arou...
Base camp the Homathko River(sic?) river-Waddington "just around the corner", yah right mate!
Credit: guido

laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 6, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
Mt Jubilee from the Lomolo glacier.

from "Wastral" TR: link posted earlier.
from "Wastral" TR: link posted earlier.
Credit: "wastral"
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
This past spring and summer, thanks to my wonderful girlfriend and her family, I learned a bit about sailing on the west coast. I always wanted to learn and now I've finally started, I've always dreamed of owning a sailboat. The sailing lifestyle on the coast is amazing! It can be crowded in the gulf islands in summer but the scenery and adventure are great. At the end of last summer we did a sailboat/zodiac trip to boulder /DWS some sandstone sea cliffs. The result was one two amazing days of awesome climbing on incredibly unique features (I should really write a TR and show the pics). Although friable the climbing is incredible with potential for miles of coastline.

Ever since then I've been fascinated with water assisted adventures. It just so happens I read the account of Rob Woods adventures in Waddington and circumnavigating Vancouver island the week before my first sail.

There is something about coastal climbing that is special. The history of mountaineering on the Island has some great epics. I believe it was you Tami who told me the story of someone (was it Woszny?) that put an ice axe through his leg.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
Wow guido, great slides. When I was younger I feel like i took this place for granted but it was because I hadn't taken the time out to explore the coast past a few bushwhacks close to home and some fishing trips in the gulf islands. I'm so glad I have been able to experience some amazing adventures the last few years that always make me proud to call this home. I'm sure you're seen the sun set and rise on the west coast and it is one of the most beautiful sights on earth.
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Mar 6, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
If any of you guys want recent info on the Knights inlet or other non aircraft ways into the Coast range I suggest talking to the people at the NOLS PNW branch as they send three trips into the range every year.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 7, 2012 - 12:13am PT
Rob and Doug Scott made the first winter ascent of Waddington.

Nope. The FWA was by Dick Culbert, Barry Hagen and Al Steck in February 1969, followed a few days later by Bob Cuthbert, Bill St. Lawrence and Les Wilson. The guidebook (2003) notes it as the only winter ascent to date.

(Possibly there have been winter ascents of the northwest peak, and it's often visited in spring, but that's not the summit.)

Hmm, didn't know that NOLS operated in Canada. Do you need some sort of permit for that?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 7, 2012 - 12:58am PT
Synchro- It was The Woz, his ice axe and the 'shrund on Foster but he didn't jam it into his damn leg, he stuffed it into his gut. Broke both his kneecaps too.

................and WALKED OUT.


Yeah, WALKED OUT.


Siiiiiiick.


Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Mar 7, 2012 - 05:40am PT
The Woz is definitely a hard act to follow.

After trying to make himself a shish-ka-Bob using one of his ribs for a skewer and some internal organs for... oh whatever, dude winds up in the hospital.

I guess lip stand during avoidance of some bears while patrolling the Whistler dump was tough to put on the hospital form. Sort of like the Spinal Tap scene where the police recommended that the death of a band member was; "best not investigated".

Stu of course informed us that it only hurt when he laughed.

So we told him as many jokes as we could remember.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 7, 2012 - 07:34am PT
Hey heads up (speaking of hard acts to follow) - Knowledge Network, March 27 - Touching a Roid, the story of a Boy and his Knife
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 7, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
Christ Anders don't you have anything better to do than fact check all my postings. Perhaps I can run everything through your data base next time. "It's the truth, even if it never happened it's the truth." LOL

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:15am PT
I am really interested in seeing trip reports and photos of the Waddington and other ranges to the north.It's so wild and remote by todays standards and still full of gems.Hopefully the explosion of new routing in Squamish will spread to these amazing places.I'd like to do a more in depth trip report with pics but don't have the time right now so here is a quicky slideshow of a ski-climbing trip across the Monarch Icecap.We had a great time but my memory of the ridiculous packs we carried has never left me. I vowed never to combine ski trips with technical mountaineering as there is tooo much stuff.It would be interesting to see how much weight you could save with the latest light weight gear available today compared to the gear of 1983(that we thought was the latest and greatest). I was 21 at the time and only in BC for 3 years at that point. After seeing places like this I realized BC was the place for me. Hamilton and the coke ovens of Dofasco were a distant memory.

It's better to watch right on Youtube on the large screen as full screen is poor quality.Some photos credited to Wayne Saunders.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:32am PT
Snychro, if you live in Comox, and want granite, why not just bop across the inlet to Powell River? You've got the equivalent of about five Squamish Chiefs just a few hours away.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
How come nobody called daRockies THE ROCKY RANGE but they think it's fine to call the Coast Mountains the "Coast Range"

grr
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Aug 6, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
because it flows off the tongue easily.

nawmean?

Hey weren't you just up hangin with Bruce Fairley up yonder?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
Nope it got too hot and Bruce pulled the plug and went home to Golden... I'm sitting around with a week off and no partners. May go back to work and reschedule holidays for a cooler week.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
Anyways back to the Coast Mountains theme:

Climbed this rig during the smoky summer of 2004. Around 30 pitches to 5.8 and moderately steep snow with one icy mixed chimney thing.

















Lots more to do in that area, even though the rock is not granite.

Across the way on Ratcliff there's a nice line too:



Tricouni if I read the journals right you were laid up sick in camp after eating rancid bacon while your pals scooped the FA of this one?

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Aug 6, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
North face of Moore! what do I win?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
Not Moore. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Aug 6, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
nuts. close?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 6, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
Naw it's Talchako, two or three ranges over
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 6, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
Tricouni if I read the journals right you were laid up sick in camp after eating rancid bacon while your pals scooped the FA of this one?

Yeah, I was pretty sick that day and the day before. Don't think I got out of the tent except for a quick barf. Upset to miss the FA, but we couldn't spare the extra day to wait for me, because we were getting low on food and it was stil a 4-day pack out to the road.

Here's a picture of Ratcliff (centre) and Talchako (big pyramid on the right) taken the day before, June 15, 1962. Dick and Ashlyn climbed Ratcliff by the right hand skyline.

Ratcliff centre&#41; and Talchako &#40;big peak on right&#41; from rid...
Ratcliff centre) and Talchako (big peak on right) from ridge above Success Lakes
Credit: Tricouni
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 24, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
BUMP for the Coast Mts.

Some local sendage. Pacemaker on the NE face of Robie Reid I hear got its 3rd ascent recently... supposedly even more of the bolts are gone now than reported on the second ascent, sounds like the big rockfall scar may be to blame.

Also Tiara Tower near Mehatl finally had a second (?) ascent, south ridge 5.7
gf

climber
Oct 16, 2012 - 07:18am PT
http://www.innate-gear.com/blog/a-joyful-howl-into-the-starry-night
A nice blog post that among other things features some stories and photos from a coast range trip
More can be found here
http://rockclimberjasmin.blogspot.tw/2012/09/normal-0-false-false-false-en-us-ja-x.html
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:16am PT
Great link Greg, brings back memories with yourself and Jim.Just got back from John Clarke night at VIMFF so I'd though I would post some pics of the coast range as it was so great to see so many slides of his amazing travels.Some of the more notable climbers I saw there were Martin and Esther Kafer,Don Serl,John Baldwin,Oplopanax and of course the Mighty hiker.Of course I'm hoping that there will be a flood of other pic postings as there are so few pics of this large and amazing area on this thread.
Monarch ice cap  <br/>
All pics in my post were taken by myself,Brian Gavi...
Monarch ice cap
All pics in my post were taken by myself,Brian Gavin, Randy Enomoto or Wayne Saunders. We swapped pics at the end of trips and it's so long ago I don't know who's is who.
Mt. Cerberus
Mt. Cerberus
Mt. Cerberus
Mt. Cerberus
Mt. Satan
Mt. Satan
Monarch ice cap with Mt. Monarch in background.
Monarch ice cap with Mt. Monarch in background.
Lower ridge of Mt. Cerberus
Lower ridge of Mt. Cerberus
Mt.Waddington from Plummer hut area.
Mt.Waddington from Plummer hut area.
Skywalk buttress of Mt. Combatant.
Skywalk buttress of Mt. Combatant.
The big guy casts a shadow on the horizon
The big guy casts a shadow on the horizon
Top of Mt. Combatant
Top of Mt. Combatant
NW summit of Mt. Waddington
NW summit of Mt. Waddington
Main summit of Mt. Waddington from NW summit.
Main summit of Mt. Waddington from NW summit.
The Tooth.
The Tooth.
The tiny summit of Mt. Waddington.
The tiny summit of Mt. Waddington.
Rapping down to the notch.
Rapping down to the notch.
gf

climber
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:50am PT
Now that is a set of photos harry! nicely done!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 18, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Thanks for sharing those awesome picture Harry!

Awesome links Greg. I met Jasmin at the top of elcap, her and Evan insisted helping us carry soaking wet gear down from my epic.

Very nice people.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 11:57am PT
Harry - thats a great collection of photo's man. That shot of skywalk is the best one i've seen! same with that last one rapping off the summit tower. it captures the essence - know what I mean? keep em coming. Good one's of that bivy on Cerberus too
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
Mike Down - Prince of the Coast range!  I keep hearing he gets out the...
Mike Down - Prince of the Coast range! I keep hearing he gets out there. I bet he lurks eh?
Credit: Bruce Kay

Rusty Turner and Jean Jean Coffee Machine McRae celebrate the end of a...
Rusty Turner and Jean Jean Coffee Machine McRae celebrate the end of a week of storm
Credit: Bruce Kay

Serra III north ridge
Serra III north ridge
Credit: Bruce Kay

Serra III norht ridge
Serra III norht ridge
Credit: Bruce Kay

Dan Canton shlepping a load on Serra III
Dan Canton shlepping a load on Serra III
Credit: Bruce Kay

uh oh here comes a shitstorm
uh oh here comes a shitstorm
Credit: Bruce Kay

Rob Tomich and Dan canton bask in post epic glory
Rob Tomich and Dan canton bask in post epic glory
Credit: Bruce Kay
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Nov 18, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
From 2004
Serra V
Serra V
Credit: climblight
Tom Descending from Serra V

Serra V summit
Serra V summit
Credit: climblight
Waddington from Serra V summit
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Great action shots Bruce. I'm guessing that shot of Mike down is around '89 and Jean, where she at these days. Thanks for sharing. Thanks to climblight also. I guess your next Drew.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Wow guys amazing shots! I can't believe I missed this thread!!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
Fab pix all !!!! I think that pic of MD is from earlier than '89. :-)

Love to know if he does, in fact, lurk. That would be hilarious.

Jean is a schoolteacher in town here. Saw her on the street the other day ( me in the car; her on foot - didn't get much of a chance to talk......dammit ) but she looks fabulous. OF course.

If any of you guys have her email , would you be so kind as to send it to me? I asked her for it in passing that day but obvs got it wrong.........sheesh.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Nov 18, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Looks like some great adventuring! Does all the sunshine make those glaciers so big?
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Wow great photos and stories, glad this was resurrected, I hope it continues.

I spent the summer listening to epic Coast Range stories from members of the Heathens Mountaineers Club. They did a big trip into Tidemann Combatant area and theres talk of another in the near future. I'm gonna throw my name in for a spot in the heli
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
Synchro, you must go.

The big peaks of the Coast Range easily carry the same weight as any other mountains of their elevation. Also, they're wonderfully free of regulation and tourism.

One of the greatest works of imagination that sent dreams in motion before the internet is the Challenger Map that used to have a rightful place in a building at the PNE. George Challenger and his family created a relief map of British Columbia out of 1/4" plywood and paint.

It was put in storage and the B.C. Building torn down to appease some architects who felt sterile lawns with concrete fake stream beds would be more attractive. As predicted, the precious shrine to an ideal has no appeal but this used to have lots:






Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
I got stiffed by a 3 day storm and iffy routefinding on this thing but would like to go back.



This big rig beside it is very nice too. Bruce Fairley and Brian Cruikshank climbed a route up the east face but the real deal on the NE pillar (right skyline) is still up for grabs.



And then to the south across Doran you have this range of granite spires where Clarke+Croft and then the Heathens have been scooping nice routes



The real good rock is on the south sides, and this pic is of the north sides. Sigh.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
Wow, as big Mike would say:

amazon shots

Some very cool stories too, beautiful peaks & looks like a bushwackers Mecca.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
Oops. Stupid auto correct...
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 18, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
I did a couple trips into the Niut Range in spring with Don and Gord Betenia. Some good times there too. Rock is mostly sh#t but pockets of solid granite can be found.

















I sure would like to get back in there sometime. It's a great spot for spring mountaineering and a very cheap flight since it's right in Whitesaddle's back yard.
gf

climber
Nov 18, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
Drew -i did a flyby through the niut with sigg issac once -we told mike to step on the gas and burned metaphorical heli rubber over to climb on stuff dropping off on either side of the upper tellot
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 18, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Ya but what time of year was it? I hear in July it's a real slag pile.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
So yo sayin' she niut zactly yo-smite granite, nawmean? Didja burn metamorphical rubble gittin' outa there ya sayin'? Ya doh wanna be rubblin' in da Nye-oot 'less yo plannin' on da rockies fo christmas know wut I'm sayin'?

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 18, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
That Special J-Roc K was ghastly. The video is hilarious :-)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 18, 2012 - 07:29pm PT
So last night there was a special presentation at VIMFF on the new biography of John Clarke, by Lisa Baile. This John Clarke, that is:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Clarke_(mountaineer);
http://www.nsnews.com/news/John+Clarke+lived+climb+every+mountain/7558391/story.html

The book is called "John Clarke Explorer of the Coast Mountains" - which he most certainly was, with perhaps 600 first ascents from the mid 1960s to 1996. But also many first traverses, plus a lot of conservation work, for all of which he was awarded the Order of Canada shortly before he died in 2003.

You can read about, and order, the book at http://www.harbourpublishing.com/title/JohnClarke

There's a mountain named for John, which you can learn about at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WYMs7v0_B4

Also a 1995 documentary, called Child of the Wind, but it doesn't seem to be on the net.

Credit: Mighty Hiker
The author, with the book.

Credit: Mighty Hiker
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 18, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
So you sayin' don't quit yo day job? that wa yo sayin?

Err... uh. ok.

the Coffee Machine Splitter on Stiletto
the Coffee Machine Splitter on Stiletto
Credit: Bruce Kay
MH2

climber
Nov 18, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
Great stuff.


Not having any of my own ain't gonna stop me (I did ask permission, a few years ago).









Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 19, 2012 - 12:21am PT
John liked to take 4 - 5 months each year, first for a long ski traverse, then for long foot traverses. As he commented, it tended to leave gaps in one's employment resume, although he often worked for his parents' stained glass company. Anyway, once he was in a more conventional job, and on leaving in May was asked by his boss "How come you work here, I own the company, but you get four months off a year?"
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 19, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
Sadly the closest I've been to Wadd is flying over it. The YVR to Terrace afternoon flight gives you some great lighting in the summer.





Going up you see one side and flying back down you see the other sides



Sometimes the lighting is very good

MH2

climber
Nov 19, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
Cool pics!!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 19, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
first rate. I think I counted over a dozen world class lines there

And that was just the unclimbed ones!

Those windows were spotless. Did you tell them to get the windex out every time?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 19, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
Bruce - I clean them off with my tongue.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 19, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
Credit: Bruce Kay

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 20, 2012 - 12:08am PT
John liked to take 4 - 5 months each year, first for a long ski traverse, then for long foot traverses. As he commented, it tended to leave gaps in one's employment resume, although he often worked for his parents' stained glass company.

Here's something not really Wadd-related, but definitely John Clarke related.

It's true, he did work in his parents' glass business from time to time, but he occasionally also worked on a landscaping crew. On one of those gigs, his partner was a relatively recent immigrant from Hong Kong, whose main interest was clothing and fashion.

Those of you reading this thread who don't know John, probably don't understand the gap here, but John's idea of being well-dressed was to wear long underwear that had been washed within the last month. And his idea of sophisticated conversation was "I got a look at Pk 2,125 last year from across the valley, and it just HAS to be climbed."

So, of course, he told stories to his work partner. And the work partner -- whose idea of adventure was going to a nightclub featuring a band he hadn't heard of -- was completely baffled.

This went on through most of the winter, until one day, after yet another lengthy description of a climbing trip but with the added bonus of a description of a bivouac, his partner said (channeling John's imitation of a Cantonese accent here)...

"Ah! Now understanding. You sleep... IN DIRT!"

How I miss the man


RIP brother
Timmc

climber
BC
Nov 20, 2012 - 01:26am PT
Fantatic thread!

Thanks for all the great photos and stories.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 20, 2012 - 03:48am PT
Like the aerials Drew with that forming see through lenticular over the summit. It shows a great view of your route on Serra II Bruce and your shot is a good angle of it also.Jim has some good pictures of the south ridge and I have a little video of it. Jim has tons of great pics we just have to get on his case about scanning them.Yes I'm talking to you, Jim.Nice story about JC Ghost and that's not your usual butt shot.
Mt. Combatant from nunatuk
Mt. Combatant from nunatuk
Credit: harryhotdog
Mt. Waddington from Mt. Hickson
Mt. Waddington from Mt. Hickson
Credit: Mary Prendergast
Bookin it through the icefall on Waddington
Bookin it through the icefall on Waddington
Credit: harryhotdog
On Mt.Combatant
On Mt.Combatant
Credit: harryhotdog
Nearing summit of Mt. Combatant
Nearing summit of Mt. Combatant
Credit: harryhotdog
Heading over to the summit tower
Heading over to the summit tower
Credit: harryhotdog
Negotiating our way up to the Combatant col from the Scimitar glacier
Negotiating our way up to the Combatant col from the Scimitar glacier
Credit: harryhotdog
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 20, 2012 - 03:52am PT
Ya Jim!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 20, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
Real mountains!

Here's one from well above, of the Tellot Glacier area. The maintenance people seem to have forgotten to clean my window that day - I wonder how Dru does it?
Credit: Mighty Hiker
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 20, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
Drew you have a really good shot of Tiedemann south ridge. I've heard from people who have done both that it is quite similar to the Pueterey Integral on Mt Blanc. The Pueterey has about 500 more meters of climbing but Tiedemann doesn't have a hut or an easy off once you're started. I'd say its easily one of the most classic routes of north America.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 20, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Too often when we think of the Coast Mountains it's the Wadd Range and immediate neighbours. Or maybe Monarch. There are places in the Coast Mountains that make the Wadd Range seem as heavily trafficked as Chamonix by comparison. In honor of John Clarke this set of pics is from the Kingcome Glacier drainage. A wild place with some large rock walls and some amazing locals.


Upper Kingcome. Lahlah Creek on the right. Obvious wall is 1000m+ but disappointingly bushy on close inspection. Waterfalls partially out of photo on left are also 800m+ high all told but not very steep.


This one is 550m top to base, which is higher than Della. Wonder if it freezes?


Used to be a glacier, now it's a 5km long lake with a glacier dropping into it... head of the Satsalla. A very dark place surrounded by massive brooding walls.


You can see this waterfall in the distance in the last shot. The serac is about 40-50m high.


The wall on the west side of the lake has a crazy overhanging face that's hundreds of meters high. You can see this thing in spring in a pic in John Baldwin's ski guide.


The wall on the east side of the lake is the west face of Kolos Peak and it's 2000m high, although not all vertical. This is about a third of the whole thing, it was too big to get in the frame. Also pretty green. Doubt it will see a big wall team anytime this century. You never know though. Silvia Vidal might solo it.

I saw a pic of this glacier from above in the JC slideshow.
I saw a pic of this glacier from above in the JC slideshow.
Credit: Oplopanax

Kingcome Glacier icefall. Wouldn't want to ski through this.
Kingcome Glacier icefall. Wouldn't want to ski through this.
Credit: Oplopanax

Walls southeast&#40;?&#41; of the Atlatzi River. I think JB and JC tra...
Walls southeast(?) of the Atlatzi River. I think JB and JC traversed the ridge, but not sure. They could have been on the other divide of this same valley. 500-700m high walls of clean(!) rock
Credit: Oplopanax

More steep rock on the Atlatzi-Satsalla divide. Nobody's walking a hau...
More steep rock on the Atlatzi-Satsalla divide. Nobody's walking a haulbag in here anytime soon I bet.
Credit: Oplopanax

Lots of the things mapped as glaciers in the 80s are lakes full of ice...
Lots of the things mapped as glaciers in the 80s are lakes full of ice cubes now. If you like glaciers, visit them while you can. The melt is on.
Credit: Oplopanax
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 20, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
Do you get the feeling that Drew isn't showing us everything?

2WD right to the base.....  well, first you gotta get your car to Toba...
2WD right to the base..... well, first you gotta get your car to Toba Inlet, but then your in there!
Credit: Bruce Kay

Unnamed, unknown, unclimbed
Unnamed, unknown, unclimbed
Credit: Bruce Kay


Toba river country has a fair bit of wallage, but even after a whole lot of scoping and fly by's I'd be hard pressed to recommend it for anything technical. The "Filer Eiger" looked about the best at about 1500 meters of steep rock that has a ferocious looking water ice line shooting up to a hanging snowfield, then mixed to the summit. Summer? well good luck. The rock is a fairly jingus metamophic dark igneous rock of dubious quality, a fair bit of it in the jungle zone.

It is perfect John Baldwin / John Clarke country however. Non technical but absolutely scenic glaciated long ridges scattered with summits all with cairns built by JC himself. If you go quite a bit deeper up the Filer river you'll eventually bump into the Raleigh / Gilbert group which has some really good higher elevation stone and a few big routes .

And for the technical climber that is pretty much the story from here up to the Fairweather range. A gazillion deep fiords and steep walled valleys guarding tons of unknown bushy walls, almost all granite but not exactly yosemite if you know what I mean. Up above treeline its all JC country with the odd zone of outrageous world class mega routes cursed by nothing except the weather.

Fortunately a lot of it is between here and Bella Coola

Unless of course Drew (and Tricouni) is holding out on us with the goods further north?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 20, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Most of my pictures from that trip had a big orange stripe across the middle.
Jstod

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:48am PT
Mike Down - Prince of the Coast range! I keep hearing he gets out there. I bet he lurks eh?

I don't think he does! He does, however, get in there often (including twice this summer).

Here's one of him from three or four years ago...

radiant cirque
radiant cirque
Credit: Jstod

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:54am PT
Hey Bruce or Drew can you identify these peaks north of the Monarch ice cap.The pic is taken just west of the Jacobsen peaks. I was fascinated by them at the time because they looked so steep and jagged.
Credit: harryhotdog
Nice photos of the John Clarke areas Drew. It would be nice if he had a whole range named after him ,not just a mountain.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:39am PT
WIthout looking at a map, it looks as if the pics are looking pretty much north, towards the Borealis Peaks, with the Nyland area in behind. Rugged country; still seldom visited. To my mind, more interesting than much of the Ape Lake area itself.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:47am PT
Please delete this thread, it is giving me much heartache!

Despite the pain here's the last one kicked up a notch...
That looks like the Grandes Jorasses in the back there.

Credit: Reilly
MMCC

climber
New Zealand
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:55am PT
Jesus H Chrysler, this is superb. Keep it coming, please!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 21, 2012 - 02:04am PT
Isn't Mt. Arjuna one of the dominant peaks up there? Should be in view in that picture. Maybe the pointy one to the left of center?
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 08:57am PT
Thanks Tricouni, I was looking on google earth and the bigger peaks seemed to be around 9000'around that area and I just thought that the one sharp peak would be higher than that for some reason.Cheers
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:48am PT
BMACD how about some Powell river pics,eh.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:19am PT
Harry, I'm betting those are the peaks just south of bella Coola, I've never been in there but if you know Paul Berntsen he knows it all about as well as anyone as thats all his Helliski tenure and he's done a fair bit of summer guiding there as well. Funny how it is so unfrequented. I understand the rock isn't quite the best.

Ghost, how about that range just southwest of Bute?

Speaking of Bute, check out these winter shots:

Thats about 5500 feet of uniform 38 degree skiing into Galleon creek
Thats about 5500 feet of uniform 38 degree skiing into Galleon creek
Credit: Scott Flavelle

west face of Bute.  Lots of action there lately.  Hollywood, base jump...
west face of Bute. Lots of action there lately. Hollywood, base jumping... even a few regular climbers.
Credit: Scott Flavelle

Jstod - great to hear Mike still has the fire burning! Say hi would you? Mike was all over Bute like a bad rash for a while there. Tell him to descend from the clouds for a spell and spill the beans
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:56am PT
It would be very cool to know that Mike made it to the top of Serra V. There's a pretty funny tale of the first time he tried - 2 boys and 2 wolverines!

Radiant glacier with serra 3,4, and 5, Asperity, Tiedemann and Damocle...
Radiant glacier with serra 3,4, and 5, Asperity, Tiedemann and Damocles. Scene of the crime
Credit: Bruce Kay
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Isn't Mt. Arjuna one of the dominant peaks up there? Should be in view in that picture. Maybe the pointy one to the left of center?

Yes, I wrote Nyland, but I think Arjuna is correct. I'll have to get out my 1:50K maps and spread them all over the floor, John Clarke style.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Credit: Tricouni

June 15, 1964. Dick Culbert and I packed up from the Scimitar along the east side of the Radiant Glacier for an an attempt on Serra 5. Here we take a rest stop where we had our first good view of the big peaks forming the headwall of the Radiant Glacier.

Mount Tiedemann is on the extreme right, with Asperity to its left. Serra 5 is left of the "low" col; Serra 4 pointy rock spike) is to the left. Serra 3 is directly above Dick's head and appears the highest in this view. Mt. Argiewicz anchors the far left of the photo. The long, non-descript ridge between it and Serra 3 is home to Tellot Dome and the ridges above the Tellot Spires. The top of Serra 2 is just visible as a small, dark rock peak not far left of Serra 3.

Note the high-tech Trapper Nelson packs and the wooden ice-axes.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
..........and in 1985 Peter, Greg & Don found some chicken bones in with your summit register. So in addition to them Trapper Nelsons and woodies you had some YARD BIRD in there too.

:-)
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Somewhere in those two views above lies my partners BD Rage. Levered out his holster on descent of Serra 5. Archeological treasure for some future historian as it melts out of the Radiant glacier.
Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
Sounds like the beginning of a fine tale, Tricouni. Please...tell us more.

For instance, how did you get to the Scimitar to get started....?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Awesome picture Glenn!

Tell us more!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
For Harry

Harry's pic with labels
Harry's pic with labels
Credit: Oplopanax
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 22, 2012 - 12:10am PT
Lists that contain Serra 5:
British Columbia 11,000-foot Peaks (Unranked)

This peak has no ascents by registered Peakbagger.com members.

Looks like the FPBMA is still up for grabs. Sweet!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 12:46am PT
Nice pic Tricouni, yes how did you approach the Scimitar.Anymore pics by chance?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 01:08am PT
I'll see if I can dig up more pics. They'll have to be scanned.

We flew into the Scimitar by ski plane. The plane was a modified Super-Cub, NZU, owned by Roy Mason. (Roy was an honourary member of the BCMC, started the original push to make the Stein Valley a Provincial Park, and did some good first ascents (Mt. Matier probably being the best known).

No, in our minds, then and now, it wasn't cheating to fly in (John Clarke flew into places, too). And, if it was, we did our time by eventually backpacking over to the Bell-Remote area (difficult, in places), eventually backpacking into the Pantheon Range (first exploration) and backpacking out, 6 weeks after we landed, to Bluff Lake. Tough trip, crappy weather that summer, worst since 1954.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 02:07am PT
No, in our minds, then and now, it wasn't cheating to fly in
I was also dropped off on the Scimitar. I consider that flying into the mountains not onto the mountain. I don't know if they fly people up to the Combatant col but that would make me nervous. If you got caught in a long storm and food was running low,chances are you would have to routefind down to the lower Scimitar in possible whiteout conditions.Starting from the Scimitar means in that situation your just following your wanded ascent route back down.Thanks for posting that historic pic.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:03am PT
Wands! I think I remember taking wands in there a couple of times as well but I think these days the first move out of the col is a quick call to Mike King like you're hailing a taxi .... unfortunately it can be a bit like trying to find a taxi out of a particularly nasty part of town, with nasty consequences if you aren't successful. Carl Diedrich had a pretty funny tale along those lines involving a bear on the Scimitar!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:21am PT
Carl Diedrich had a pretty funny tale along those lines involving a bear on the Scimitar!

That was a good one. He called it "This ain't the Cascades, Jack!" I published it in the CAJ, and somehow talked Tami into doing some illustration for it. I'll try to dig out the story and put it up on this thread. Anybody know what Carl is up to these days? He actually did a bunch of trips up into the ranges around the Wadd area in the late 80s/early 90s.

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 22, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
haha David, after reading Bruce's post and before reading yours I remember "Ohphuck THAT story". It's actually better then the story of Mike 'n' John and the wolverines. Do try find it & put it up here. Gnarly tale.

I took wands into the Wadd when I went in with Barb C in '85 .
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
Dick and I could definitely have used wands in 1964.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
I bet the Radiant glacier could be a lot of fun in a white out!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
I bet the Radiant glacier could be a lot of fun in a white out!

Very, very spooky. We were lucky it cleared when it did.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
Preparing for battle in the Radiant.  Choss pile in back ground.
Preparing for battle in the Radiant. Choss pile in back ground.
Credit: Bruce Kay

This story? This is a little snippet from a long forgotten Alpinist article that Surly Don was commissioned to do, and I somehow got involved. Either way it moldered away in the files until Tami suddenly blurted out "Phukkin' story" or what ever it was her potty mouth projectiled into the stratosphere. It is in the hut log and then the CAJ and now the elevated pages of the Stupor Torpor Journal:


Grizzlies on Wadd

Another couple of Coast range stalwarts, Carl Diedrich and Guy Davis, described a similar desperate retreat to the Plummer hut and its life sustaining supply of rice and mouse droppings. This one started at the Wadd / Combatant col and happened before the days of snapping your fingers at Mike King like it's downtown Manhattan and being wisked off to the gala ball. Cut off from the Tiedemann glacier by a common sense assessment of the objective hazards, their route involved a long circuitous descent into the grizzly infested trough of the Scimitar glacier. Grizzlies are like large wolverines, but tend to be more interested in you than what's on your back. Again, we pick up the tale as told straight out of the Hut Log. The Lads, weary and laden with towering packs, stumble upon a massive pile of steaming bear scat on the glacier.... and shortly thereafter, a bear:


"F-F-F-F-F*#k C-C-Carl, there's a f*#king bear." I manage to jitter out. At first we could only see the bear's head as it peered at us from behind a ridge in the moraine, but quickly it made its way toward us. It was only 50 yrds away.

"Dump your pack and run!" Carl exclaims. At the moment we were carrying axes and crampons in our hands as we had just gotten off the ice onto the moraine. As if I had done it everyday for a year I eject everything. My pack plops off behind me and my axe and crampons hit the ground after I had taken ten steps.

"Climb that boulder." We both clamber up hoping we left the bear way behind. The beast strolls along after us, still only 50 yrds away.

"We're screwed man, we have no warm clothing." We wore only our sweaty trudging gear.

"Just think mellow, man. He'll go away, just think mellow." I whisper more to assure myself than anything. "Just think positive vibes - he'll leave us alone." I realized I was sounding like a freak and Carl gave me one of those "what are you rambling about" looks.

The bear stops advancing and disappears behind a boulder.

"OK let's make a run for our packs and head back up the glacier!"

We sprint to our packs - I have mine on and I'm clasping my waist belt when Carl goes screaming by me at top bear-sprint speed - the look on his face speaks for itself; Here comes the bear again. I eject again and follow Carl past our first boulder to a second bigger one. We scramble above. The bear keeps its 50 yrd stand off, but this time goes to our packs and starts sniffing.

"Now we really are screwed. He's going to shred through our packs - eat everything he can find and then wait for us." Carl says.

"Just think mellow, man, mellow." There I go again - obviously my terror was too much for my conscious mind to bear so my psyche went into some kind of mental shock.

We didn't say much while the bear sniffed at our packs - we were too busy imagining our inevitable demise. My imagination raced "1001 Ways to be Killed by a Bear." Ripped out wind pipe, wacked off head, just generally ripped to death. There seemed no end to the possibilities.

Then without warning the bear turned and slowly walked out of sight down the glacier. Again we slithered off the boulder, snuck to our packs, pulled them on and made our way back up the Radiant glacier. Before we had our first encounter of a bear kind, our feet hurt, our legs ached and our backs were shot, but now we raced up the glacier with renewed vigor. It's incredible what a bear will do for your energy and motivational level.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Bahahaha, that story is great!

Bump for some more.

Stoked to see Peter Crofts presentation tonight of the first full mountaineering traverse of the Waddington Range, with Greg Foweraker and Don Serl!!!

MH2

climber
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
Makes Red Bull look like chamomile tea.
gf

climber
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
hey bruce did anyone ever climb that butt on the left or the main feature to the right -i took a look at it once but felt that the crack systems were likely going to not loan themselves to speed -what say you?
g
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
You mean that choss pile? Aint no cracks on that. Nothing but moss.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
That's not the buttress you're looking for, folks. Move along, please.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
Credit: Tricouni

Any guesses as to this one? It should be pretty easy.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
I'm going to go way out on a limb and say Gilbert. That would be the Cleaver up front with the DWMC "Leave it to Cleaver" A melvin Fish / Scott Fulafahl coast range classic. Yep I'm sure of it.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
I dug a little bit to find some spire pics for Harry

Edwards Range - Musk Ok, Walrus Tusks etc
Edwards Range - Musk Ok, Walrus Tusks etc
Credit: Oplopanax

Arjuna in the cloud with Nyland and Horn behind
Arjuna in the cloud with Nyland and Horn behind
Credit: Oplopanax

Borealis Pks
Borealis Pks
Credit: Oplopanax

And across the way you have this thing

Saugstad. This thing is gnarly. Richard showed us skid tracks where he...
Saugstad. This thing is gnarly. Richard showed us skid tracks where he had landed on the summit though. Might be the best way off...
Credit: Oplopanax
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
Preparing for battle in the Radiant. Choss pile in back ground
Is that the bottom of Hickson your talking about Bruce or something else. Thanks Drew it looks like a very cool area and with grizzlies I'm sure.Tami that ws the same year I was in there.I remember having supper in Tatlayoko lake on the way home and Peter was there also. Were you and Barb at that dinner too as I vaguely remember some woman folk.
Credit: harryhotdog
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 23, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Barb left for the Rockies so she wasn't at Tatlayoko Lk for supper. I was there, however, as I returned to the Coast with Peter & the others.

Won't go into it but not a really happy time for me.........
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 23, 2012 - 01:01am PT
My Canuckian bro-in-law is here. I'm totally checking out his suitcase
but after today I'm not hopeful.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:21am PT
Credit: Tricouni
I'm going to go way out on a limb and say Gilbert. That would be the Cleaver up front with the DWMC "Leave it to Cleaver" A melvin Fish / Scott Fulafahl coast range classic. Yep I'm sure of it.

Bruce Kay nails it.

The highest summit of Mt. Gilbert is in the centre of the photo. The 1952 party climbed the broad snow-dome on the left side of the photo but were stopped from continuing from the summit by the black ridge of gendarmes visible in the photo. Some members of this party returned in 1954 and traversed left around the base of the snow dome (left of the field of view of the photo) to reach easy snow slopes on the south side of Gilbert which led to the summit. Both parties camped below the icefall just visible in the extreme bottom-right of the photo.

The two black rock peaks of the Cleaver "cleave" the upper Raleigh Glacier. The higher peak (directly below Gilbert's ridge of gendarmes) has been climbed by trversing up and over the slightly higher snow and rock summit to the left.

The lower peak has been ascended from the Raleigh Glacier by climbing the conspicuous, curving rock rib that leads to the col between the two Cleaver peaks. The north ridge (right hand skyline) was climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit in 1954.

Photo taken in 1971 from the summit of Mt Raleigh.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:26am PT
Peter Croft gave a superb talk tonight about the Waddington traverse that he, Don Serl, and Greg Foweraker did in 1985. In my mind, still the best thing that's been done in the Coast Mountains.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 23, 2012 - 09:35am PT
Greg, do you have any pics of the traverse? I wonder if you were before or after us on Waddington, I can't remember the exact date but I think it was end of July beginning of August 1985 for us.Were there any tracks on the NW summit?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 23, 2012 - 10:53am PT
Saugstad. This thing is gnarly

Appropriate. So's this guy

Don &#40;The Gnarl&#41; Saugstad
Don (The Gnarl) Saugstad
Credit: Bruce Kay

His Grandpappy was Christian Saugstad, something of a religious fire brand that managed to lead a 100 or so of his flock to the wilds of the Bella coola valley, thus establishing Hagensberg. Mt Saugstad is actually fairly close to town but pretty well guarded by bush, I understand.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 23, 2012 - 11:40am PT
still the best thing that's been done in the Coast Mountains.

Glenn, not to diminish D / G / P's traverse, but don't you think The teenage Beckey brothers bagging the 2nd ascent of Waddington way back in the forties all on foot and up a proudly technical route is right up there? There was no Mike King back then, or even a CFB Comox let alone other climbers in the area. I think once you balance out all the factors (like crap gear, food , context of remoteness etc) much of the early stuff really blows the modern stuff away, even if the routes weren't quite as "rad". The south face of Wadd is pretty rad, even by modern standards too.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 23, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
Yeah, I forgot about the Beckeys' 1942 trip; posting late last night on the high after the PC talk. The Beckey expedition is up there with the Wadd traverse, all right, maybe above it. Many people try the Waddington south face; few succeed.

Another one that's always overlooked is the 1934 trip by the Neave brothers. They approached from the interior and found what's now the regular route up the Bravo Glacier. They missed the chiimney route, but came so close to success on the NE face of the summit tower, all this two years before the first ascent by W&H. The NE face wasn't climbed until 1950 by Al Steck and Phil Bettler, and AFAIK has never been repeated.

They are great epics, all three of them.
Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Nov 23, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
Credit: John Scurlock

Mt. Saugstad. The crown jewel of the Coast Range in my humble opinion

Credit: from the net

The Reverend Christian Saugstad (my great grand-pappy)

And ya, Bruce, its well protected by the foliage..i found that out a time or three
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 23, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Of course after the Devil's Club, Slide Alder, Grizzly Bears and Saturday night razor totin' Chilcotin Marmots, those seracs and ridge flutings are cake !

More pics please Saugy ! ! !
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 24, 2012 - 02:22am PT
Nice photo of Rev Saugstad and his mountain. Photo taken from the east. FA party on Saugstad did it from the west, climbing the main peak and the lower north peak (near right).

Thanks for posting! More photos?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 24, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
If we're talking "best thing that's been done in the Coast Mountains" the Devils Thumb group complete traverse (Haley/Schaefer), Kobus's Wadd by kayak trip, and the complete S to N traverse from Vancouver to Alaska (Culbert/Edwards/Millar) should also be on the radar.

Comparing Beckey and Beckey to Culbert, Edwards and Millar is really apples and oranges. Not sure which of those two is the "best thing ever done" in the Coast Mountains, but it's one of those two, IMHO.

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 24, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
Can't argue with those choices. The box of mixed apples and oranges and other fruit is getting fuller.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 24, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
I didn't know that the Neave brothers went up the Steck / Bettler face instead of the chimneys. That really is something especially for the thirties. any idea how high they got?

Speaking of brothers ( something of a trend here...) do you know much about the Bitterlich brothers and thier attempts?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 24, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Just a little bit of juicy trivia - Mt Saugstad FA was by John Dudra (Vancouver) and Pete Schoening, who everyone should recognize from the famous K2 American attempt. Wasn't it him with the famous boot axe belay?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
Any guess on this? Coast Mountains, obviously.

Credit: Tricouni

Hint: it's not the Waddington Range.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
Any guess on this?

Cor fackin 'ell mate, that's bloody amazing.

I haven't traveled in enough of the Coast Range to know all that much first hand, but all the years I spent editing the CAJ gave me a pretty good idea of what is out there. But whatever it is in your pic is new to me. It definitely looks like Coast granite, but from where?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
It's coast granite. John Clarke never got into that corner of the world.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
It must be north of the Skeena then
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 25, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
More Saugstad: http://www.bcarchives.gov.bc.ca/exhibits/timemach/galler05/frames/norweg.htm
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
It must be north of the Skeena then

Nope....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 25, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
Septentrion spires?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
You're good, Bruce.

How about this one? I think this will be easy.

Credit: Tricouni
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
not to this cowboy
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
Lembert Dome?


But, kidding aside, tell us more about the Septentrion Spires.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
Lembert Dome! You're good, Ghost!

In the Pantheon Range north of Waddington Range, west of Nirvana Pass and not far from Bluff Lake and Whitesaddle Helicopters.

AFAIK, none of those buttresses or ridges have been climbed. The rock is granitic but I think it might be a bit shattered. Worth a look, though.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
My ex-wife and some of her friends did a ski trip into the Pantheon Range one February. I don't remember seeing that exact view, but there were a lot of pictures that left me drooling.

Some climbers younger than us ought to take this as a challenge and get in there...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 25, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Yes, they should. Won't be me, though....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:04am PT
There are at least 2 technical routes there so far - Diedrich and the two Brits that have been plundering all the goods lately. Myself and suzanne walked past them exiting out to Bluff lake. They looked good even plastered in snow and the existing routes sound stellar. Short flight too. Lots of other good looking stuff nearby - Zues, Fenris. Those spires are just west of Nirvana pass if thats where you were ghost.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:10am PT
Credit: Hoser
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:13am PT
Those spires are just west of Nirvana pass if thats where you were ghost.

I weren't anywhere near there. T'was me ex, lad, not me. I just saw the pictures.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:22am PT
That photo looks like on the the Septentions behind on left, with Pegasus on the right.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:27am PT
Silverthrone? I really doubt it but I'm stumped.

OK if you want to get all tricky whats this one



Credit: Bruce Kay


hint: its in the coast range
Captain...or Skully

climber
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:36am PT
That's a nicely evocative pic. Sweet.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:39am PT
Nope . That most certainly is not A Nicely Evocative peak.

Nice try tho.


Ok here's another excruciatingly tough nut to crack

Credit: Bruce Kay

hint: it could be just about anywhere
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:00am PT
You've got me on those. Not Waddinton area, though, I'm pretty sure.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:09am PT
warmer.


Ok I can't lie .... the first one is some totally obscure thing that even the guy in the picture likely wouldn't recognize and he has spent a good part of the past 3 winters staring at it. It was a mistake when I posted it - I thought it was Mt dalgliesh, which is nearby.

Anyhoo, the other one is a no brainer for anyone usually on this thread borne after 1978 or so
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 26, 2012 - 09:37am PT
Ok here's another excruciatingly tough nut to crack
I though I was ready for that new game show "Name that mountain" but I now realize I'm a lightweight! Since I can't identify yours I'll try to stump you with mine!
Credit: harryhotdog
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 26, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
ha - nice try putting all that cloud all over it harry.

Hickson from the col.

I still can't believe all the kids on snow boards haven't figured out my last pic
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 26, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
Bruce's photo is from the Spearhead Range. Even better, without gondolas and such.

How come none of you losers was at the Garibaldi Park planning meeting tonight, at Robson Square? (OK, those in Squamizh and Whistler can go to the one in Whistler on the 6th.) It's important to go to these meetings, as you never know what's going on, and should get your five cents in.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:01am PT
I was looking through some old slides for some buildering photos that need scanning, and I stumbled across this. I'd forgotten about this wall. For those who think that the Coast Mountains is just big peaks and snow bumps, try this. Unclimbed, AFAIK, and fairly easy to get to.
Credit: Tricouni

Hint (the only one I'll give - it can wait for another generation, if it has to): it's in the Coast Mountains between the Fraser River on the south and the Nass River on the north.
gf

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:19am PT
Now glenn -whats the rough elevation of that fine looking crag -ie how vegetated in the cracks? Thanks for helping with the location
MH-did you cast my proxy vote for mtn biking on the helm creek trail?

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:31am PT
BC Parks has ruled out any expansion of mountain biking in the park - it's in the draft master plan. But you can go to their website and express your views about it if you want - http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/planning/mgmtplns/garibaldi/garibaldi_mp.html
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:32am PT
The height of the wall is about 700 metres (2300 feet). It's higher than the Chief.

I don't know for sure how good the cracks are, but from what I can remember, I think they should be reasonably clean. Rock is excellent.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:24am PT
Bruce- you sneaky devil!! That last one is the end of disease ridge looking back at Blackcomb peak!!!! Doa is clearly visible. I love that left exit..
gf

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:06am PT
Glenn-how about the crystalline size? looks like there could be some good face climbing if there is stuff to pinch and smear for a good chunk of the height of that wall in the foreground.
MH -rest assured I have done so but thanks for the encouragment.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
At last Tricouni posts up something promising - that is a pretty nice looking wall. Pretty low elevation however. Greg is right to be skeptical. It looks a lot like Stienbok and we all know how the crack systems go on that thing. As Brad White put it: "Its thicker than a Nuns pelt up here!"

But you never know until someone actually rubs thier nose against it eh? I bet drew dosn't know anything about it.......
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
Bruce I was correct no?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Will yous guys STFU and post some more Coastal porn?
Dec 21 is fast approaching and I need to make a decision where to go first!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Bruce, I was correct first!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:29pm PT



Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 26, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
Bruce's photo is from the Spearhead Range. Even better, without gondolas and such.


Pretty loose description there Anders.....


Lol Reilly! :)


Here;








Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Technically Anders scores the win

But anyone thinking Spearhead would immediately recognize Blackcomb peak, unless of course you wouldn't recognize it at all due to a ideological refusal to patronize lift serviced ski terrain. So good little bit of fishing there Anders, but accuracy goes to Big Mike.

I might reconsider the ruling if you ever cough up those FOSC buttons you owe me.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Another dang moral victory...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Reilly wants coastal porn. Hmmm....

Here's a good start:



And with that out of the way, how about:



Or:



(And yes, I know, I've posted these before. But that was in a story about underwear and disease, and I think maybe they belong here, too.)
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Sorry - what was that? Another dang hollow victory?


can't find my reading glasses, but I'm pretty sure thats what you said. Makes sense anyway.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
Credit: sac

Here's one. 1000m +

J.C. himself strolled past this in the early nineties.

He promptly alerted the rock climbers w/ photos and everything.

"Red alert" is what I believe he said.

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
At last Tricouni posts up something promising - that is a pretty nice looking wall. Pretty low elevation however. Greg is right to be skeptical. It looks a lot like Stienbok and we all know how the crack systems go on that thing. As Brad White put it: "Its thicker than a Nuns pelt up here!"

Well, I'll just point out that Squamish is at a pretty low elevation, too, a lot lower than Steinbok.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
Thats that wall up in the Danniels valley. Too bad they deactivated the road . So has anyone been on it? I've only seen it in the winter so its hard to judge the crack systems.

Glenn, I'm not saying it can't happen, just that its way more likely to find moss and cedars and the lower you get the more likely you find them. Stienbok and Rexford are good examples of how high that shrubbery can go. So what is that body of water in the foreground?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
I think there's some big granite on the north side of Toba inlet. I'd have to go digging through the archives, but I remember some shots JC took up there that showed a lot of rock.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
I think there's some big granite on the north side of Toba inlet

You might be thinking of Klite peak, up the Klite river. That is a really neat looking sharp spire, but generally surrounded by less dramatic climbing opportunities. I have no photos unfortunately.
Toba inlet
Toba inlet
Credit: Bruce Kay
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
My Uncle in law sailed up to Glacier bay in August with instructions from me to the photograph cliffs. This is on the panhandle somewhere,was previously posted.
Credit: harryhotdog
Credit: harryhotdog
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
Ooh... That second one looks sick! Lotsa sweet corners!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:31am PT


Hey Glenn is that snowy pic Ambition or that general area?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 1, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
Hey Glenn is that snowy pic Ambition or that general area?

Actually, maybe it's the NW face of Bell, now that I look at it again?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
Good shooting man! I just looked it up and sure enough - west face of bell. How'd you know? I bet only a handful of people have had that view

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/waddington&page=all
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
Glenn, I'm not saying it can't happen, just that its way more likely to find moss and cedars and the lower you get the more likely you find them. Stienbok and Rexford are good examples of how high that shrubbery can go.

Bruce, I hear you. I think that wall will be shrubby, particularly seeing as it's in the Prince Rupert region (rainfall and drizzle capital of BC).

Hey Glenn is that snowy pic Ambition or that general area?

No, but it has enough snow. It's actually Mt Bell, NW Waddington area, from the NE. The north ridge is on the left; the west "ridge" (Culbert-Ellis) is on the right.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
John Howe/Blake Robinson appreciation going on here, especially between Ghost's pic of the Stinging Needle and then this thing:



Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
has anyone noticed a mildly annoying trend to refrain from revealing the identity of tantalizing climbing objectives?
gf

climber
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
Harry
re footsteps on the N summit of Wadd-dammed good question-this reminds me of that line in an article about TM Herbert where he mutters about being able to remember his name and age, but details about climbs -hah. I do recall seeing some footprints but let me check with Peter or Don -might be another summit clouding my addled brain.
-lets go skiing soon!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 3, 2012 - 12:47am PT
Skiing,yes.
Credit: harryhotdog
gf

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:01am PT
HARRY-your shot of endless sled dragging looks quite uncivilized, lets...
HARRY-your shot of endless sled dragging looks quite uncivilized, lets do something a bit more along these lines....please
Credit: gf
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
Bruce the pic above is Salient and it isn't too tantalizing. Glenn can probably comment better than I can but the lowest rocks are granite and then the upper 600m is Gambier Group volcanics, according to the online geology map anyway.

John and Blake climbed up the buttress just right of the N face couloir after deciding the west face proper was not very appealing, it says in the CAJ
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Where is salient peak?

Knowing those guys up at the end of some fresh logging road no doubt
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
I'm pretty sure this is Mt. Bell.
I'm pretty sure this is Mt. Bell.
Credit: harryhotdog
You know, I was going to say Bell when I first saw Tricouni's
photo but thought no it's some obscure peak that only Drew would know.Have any of you climbed it?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:09am PT
Knowing those guys up at the end of some fresh logging road no doubt

Needle Peak wasn't at the end of any fresh logging road. We got a pretty good look at the approach John and Blace used en route to Needle Peak when we flew into Mt. Sir Frances Drake. Had to be one of the ugliest sights in the Coast Range.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:16am PT
Oh I'm sure you're right. I seem to recall some story of Blake putting the brakes on any helicopter nonsense on some sort of twisted moral grounds. But I bet if its those two it had to do with their work the fact they were there at all.

The Hairline Hose on Bravo peak
The Hairline Hose on Bravo peak
Credit: Larry Stanier
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Why waste your money on a scanner when you can just wander around your house. Love it.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:26am PT
Bruce the pic above is Salient and it isn't too tantalizing. Glenn can probably comment better than I can but the lowest rocks are granite and then the upper 600m is Gambier Group volcanics, according to the online geology map anyway.

Salient (about 2400 metres, 8000 feet) is one of the more interesting peaks between the Deab River and the Skeena. It's at 53 3'2.85"N 12659'18.93"W and Dru is correct about the geology. I had a choice between going after it, or the highest thing for miles around, Tsaydaychuz Peak (2750 metres, 9000 feet), both unclimbed in 1978. I chose the latter.

This particular unit of volcanic rock tends to form steep walls and can be surprisingly solid. Same further north: in the Howson Range (pics forthcoming when I return to town) has solid volcanic rocks and rotten granite.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:28am PT
Needle Peak wasn't at the end of any fresh logging road. We got a pretty good look at the approach John and Blace used en route to Needle Peak when we flew into Mt. Sir Frances Drake. Had to be one of the ugliest sights in the Coast Range.

Ghost, when were you in Sir Francis Drake? Thanks very much for the coffee and chat the other morning; much enjoyed. I hope to be able to return the favour.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:35am PT
Ghost, when were you in Sir Francis Drake?

Summer of 1988. Full details were disclosed some time ago at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=759442&msg=759442#msg759442

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:44am PT
Ho man there's even a picture of Greg with red underwear on his head. you guys really lost it up there eh?

Now how about some actual climbing shots or was it all tent bound fun on the mighty Sir francis Drake?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Tsaydaychuz - now that's a cool name for a peak. Perhaps the First Peoples had and have their own names for many of the mountains, rivers, lakes, and fjords which we've so blithely dumped names on. Often the names of people who had absolutely nothing to do with the place in question. Sir Francis Drake being a good example. Humphrey Gilbert may at least have gotten to what is now Canada, that is to Frobisher Bay on Baffin Island. Although that's a long way from B.C.

And then there's the distressing ignorance of surveyors from the English navy, who didn't know the difference between a fjord, an inlet and a sound. (Sadly uncorrected by the Canadian authorities.) Plus "named" most of them, and adjacent features, for their friends and patrons back home.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 4, 2012 - 03:18am PT
Tsaydaychuz - now that's a cool name for a peak. Perhaps the First Peoples had and have their own names for many of the mountains, rivers, lakes, and fjords which we've so blithely dumped names on. Often the names of people who had absolutely nothing to do with the place in question. Sir Francis Drake being a good example. Humphrey Gilbert may at least have gotten to what is now Canada, that is to Frobisher Bay on Baffin Island. Although that's a long way from B.C.

And then there's the distressing ignorance of surveyors from the English navy, who didn't know the difference between a fjord, an inlet and a sound. (Sadly uncorrected by the Canadian authorities.) Plus "named" most of them, and adjacent features, for their friends and patrons back home.

MH: This calls for a discussion over a beer or wine; far too much to discuss in one post. Maybe this weekend. Glenn
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:09am PT
Well I'm trying to blythly dump a name on a peak now and i can assure you the likely stumbling block will be that in fact it already has a name. I'm not sure how long the Dept of Geographical names has been enquiring with first nations before naming anything, but they sure do now.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
I'm a big fan of Lhilheqey instead of Cheam but I find the capitalization in the middle of In-SHUCK-Ch kinda awkward.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 27, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
BUMP. This thread needs more Serl.

An unclimbed Serl project somewhere in the Coast Mts.
An unclimbed Serl project somewhere in the Coast Mts.
Credit: Oplopanax

I thought this would make a good shot for the Alpinist feature article...
I thought this would make a good shot for the Alpinist feature article that never was.
Credit: Oplopanax
gf

climber
Dec 27, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
Drew-maybe you should put a bug in ms ives' ear on this -a long overdue piece esp now don has decreed himself "retired" from climbing
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 28, 2012 - 03:02am PT
Yes how about some good stories involving Don with pics.I think the retirement will be like the Who's (farewell) concert in 1981.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 28, 2012 - 09:03am PT
Harry that was a choice little bit of video. I'm not sure which part I liked best, the superlative golden granite climbing above an ocean of cloud and glaciation .... or Jim Brennan waxing poetical about his newly acquired Assistant Winter Pancake flipper ticket!



Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 28, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
Don Serl's retirement/birthday party was a social highlight of the year. Here's a link to some photos:

http:///www.flickr.com/photos/21145039@N08/sets/72157631358703056/

(If it doesn't work, let me know. I'm still trying to figure Flickr out.)
Glenn
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 28, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
Great pix Glenn!!!!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 28, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
Super BUMP for the reticent harryhotdog and his exemplary video take on the infectious fun of being in the company of Don Serl !
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
I'd like to lodge a protest on the general trend to show enticing photos of attractive unclimbed features with a deliberate and annoying habit of keeping the identity secret.

Fun for you no doubt but lets get serious here. No body climbs these things around here enough to start with. Wouldn't it be nice to entice the next generation into actually climbing these things? What are we hoarding them for? Our next reincarnation?

i'm not getting any younger myself nawmean?

Like - where is that cool looking ice hose fer cryin out loud? Do I have to give Don a call?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
Here's my all-time favorite Don Serl shot.

The Lion in Winter
The Lion in Winter
Credit: Ghost
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Don specifically made me promise not to tell you Bruce.
Sad but true.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
Bruce, Tricouni, Hamie, John Howe, Scott Flavelle and Don who lurks as DOSER are the true keepers of information and pictures to our Chamonix by way of chopper or kayak.

Hey Don !

You really should write the chronological story. Your guide book is fantastic.








Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
Poor Yanks are probably still wondering why it's not "Mt. Butte" and "Mount Washington".
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 29, 2012 - 12:04am PT
Don specifically made me promise not to tell you Bruce.
Sad but true.


HAHAHAHAAHAHAH!!!!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 29, 2012 - 12:09am PT
you are both scurvy dogs
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Dec 29, 2012 - 02:19am PT
Off thread a bit but sorry I missed the party at Perry's as I would of loved to meet all you scurvy knaves. I was intending to come up with Jim but then Mother Nature got in the way. After the snow on the 19th all hell(heaven actually)broke loose with hundreds of tree failure across Vancouver. Me made mucho overtime cleaning up the mess with the end result being 3 weeks of extra holiday for next year. This is the same kind of stuff but what makes this interesting is the look on Henrik Sedin's face after his Range Rover went up against a chestnut tree,he should of got the Volvo.
Credit: harryhotdog
Credit: harryhotdog
gf

climber
Dec 29, 2012 - 08:28am PT
gods' way of punishing him for not playing hockey
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Dec 29, 2012 - 08:52am PT
Beautiful mountains, I always would have liked to climb Waddington. But I understanding the bushwhacking is horrendous.
Leggs

Sport climber
A true CA girl, who landed in the desert...
Dec 29, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
Jim suggested I view this thread... I can see why.
Great job, Synchronicity.

~peace, Leggs
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 29, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
I always would have liked to climb Waddington. But I understanding the bushwhacking is horrendous.

Serious misunderstanding there, Patrick. You step out of the helicopter a couple of thousand feet above the nearest bush.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 29, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^David beat me to it^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 6, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
These pics were taken from Mt Troubridge nr. Saltery Bay the other day. Looking South towards Egmont.

Anyone identify them? Namely the sexy one in the close-up.
Credit: sac
Credit: sac

Edit: sheesh... can't make em bigger, sorry.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
Isn't that Mt Arrowsmith? Looking south from Troubridge you're looking at Vancouver Island.

EDIT: Looking east from Troubridge you'd be looking at Mt Drew (hey!) and more interesting stuff around Marlborough Heights. I know CAD did some stuff in there via kayak. I have an email saved somewhere from him describing it.

Double edit. Yes, you're looking east. That's the unnamed highpoint of the Earle Range, a couple km north of Mt Sumner. circa 1930m. Looks pretty neat on Google Earth - a lot like a mini-Old Settler actually. TFPU.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
Ha! Thanks. East indeed.
Earl Peak it is. 1938 m / 6358 ft.
Everything seems south of here sometimes.
Yeah, CAD was so proud of his trip to the Marlborough Heights.
FA of all of em' he said, on the way to the Eldred.
Marlborough Heights& Lois Lake. From... up the road.
Marlborough Heights& Lois Lake. From... up the road.
Credit: sac
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 10, 2013 - 07:43pm PT


Photo courtesy of Phil Fortier. I skied right by this thing one spring and didn't give it more than a casual glance. Summer makes it look way better.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
Theres a line there. Once again, no hint as to where the peak is.

By the way chris christie was just up at Athelstan skiing (first rate apparently) and he said there's a good looking mixed line. There's a Tyax fuel dump and shelter there for a half decent bivy.
1 hour in on sleds. 2 hours up to the base.

See devils Club? thats how you spill the beans for the next generation of alpine tigers.

(chris is going to kill me)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
If you are sledding all the way to Athelstan you may as well go the extra few kms to this cave with the waterfall.



Right across from the pumice mine on the north side of the Lillooet, or somewhere between there aand right across from Affliction Creek anyways.

It is in a slidepath but what the hell. This could be the next Cineplex. Start in the way back of the cave (sheltered from avvies) and drytool out to the ice pillar at the lip. Right?

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
Sure thing . looks like alpine tiger material to me. I wonder if thats where Soo Valley Bob moved to?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 10, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
I heard all the alpine tigers either went to Helmcken or are on the skin-shred-skin-shred treadmill right now.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 10, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Ha! totally. Treadmill is right. I can no longer partake because it messes with my afternoon nap schedule.

That athelstan or whatever cave looks like a poor man Helmeken.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 14, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
http://mount.ai/n/articles/long-white-line
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
Bump for the Coast!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 30, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
Sunset in the Waddington Range
Sunset in the Waddington Range
Credit: Ghost
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 30, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Looks like some good spurt routes in that cave!


Ha!
gf

climber
Aug 30, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
We need a report for the recent free-climbing adventure on w face of Bute at 11 plus!!!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 30, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Yes, I also want to hear about who got kicked in the Bute. Nice to see your follicle compromised head on the rock GF on the Squamish thread.

This is any easy one. Free beer at the Brew pub to the first one who gets it.

Credit: harryhotdog

gf

climber
Aug 30, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
harry -it was a guest appearance -i never venture further than the traverse -which we MUST go do sunday in the sun!!!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Aug 31, 2013 - 12:13am PT
Bute went from remote mystery to just another movie set over night. Fifty foot diving boards, 2000 foot top rope rehearsals, craft service on the summit. Now it's back to remote mystery. Any body climb anything this year?

Harry - I guess alpha gendarme. Totally wild guess. Last time I rapped off it was about 83
gf

climber
Aug 31, 2013 - 12:32am PT
Bruce
Don emailed me about some dudes who free-climbed the original w face route this summer-i have exchanged emails with a mr blake heatherington who was part of the FFA
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Aug 31, 2013 - 12:38am PT
Cool. That guy emailed me last year and I warned him of the impending onslaught of Hollywood and base jumpers so I bet he postponed a year
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 31, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Clues. It's in the coast range if you forget about man made borders. It's also number 20.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 1, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2013/08/mt-bute-west-face-free-coast-range.html
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 1, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Harry I'm going with Forbidden Peak c'os it's No.20 in Fifty Crowded Climbs.

Never got my rump up it so I'm only going on yer clues........
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 2, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
Here's a minor bump in the Coast Mountains with an amusing name
The Faulty Tower
The Faulty Tower
Credit: Oplopanax
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 2, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
Did a geologist name it or a British comedian?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 2, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Harry, did u guys climb with hockey bags so u could play shinny on the frozen lakes after climbing?

Looks like a sweet summit!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 5, 2013 - 03:14am PT
Tami wins the beer but could you pour it over Ryan for making fun of our super lightweight hockey bags. Ha Ha.

There is definitely something wrong with Drew's peak.
gf

climber
Jun 26, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
Its nearly wadd high-season and what better way to kick it off than a ...
Its nearly wadd high-season and what better way to kick it off than a wadd summit shot -somewhat dated as the gear indicates cira 85 to be exact. Photo by Don Serl on the first major summit that took in a few more peaks along the way. Thanks to Jim B for
Credit: don serl
MH2

climber
Jun 27, 2014 - 07:14am PT
That really shows how much fun it is to take the packs off, yes? With a sea of fun in the BC background, too. Thanks for the high stoke, Greg.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jun 27, 2014 - 09:32am PT
cool lookin mountain eh
Messages 1 - 270 of total 270 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews