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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
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Choosing a killer bivy is hard. Best is to find a spot where rockfall is certain during a storm, though sometimes difficult if you have not previewed the route.
I thought the whole enchalada above us was coming down.
Let's see your best KILLER BIVY!
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Feb 28, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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That's terrifying.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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yeah, seems like one rap, maybe two and you'd be down in that scree and stuff?? not that that looks much better.
a buddy and i were sleeping below NEB of Higher Cathedral (pretty plush spot) and we're both about to doze off early when we hear this whizzing and then a crash through the trees of a rock. It wasn't too close, but not too far away either. we moved a little bit thinking it would ease our minds and allow us to get to sleep. neither of us slept worth a damn' that night.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 28, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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ack ack
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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This was 500 feet up a route.
No way of seeing what was above till the 5th pitch started....
It's only 1 night....Jeez.
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corniss chopper
climber
breaking the speed of gravity
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
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A 'killer' vs non-killer bivy. Let me think...hmmmm.
If you got no choice that's it. Besides there's always tomorrow
to upgrade to a flat spot under a tree.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
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Nice bivy Mucci! I always say that stuffs been there for thousands of years, Im sure it won't come down......until tomorrow.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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Mucci! I love the play on words.
Only killer bivy I can easily locate photos of is this 1976, out of the way location on Mt. Deborah Alaska.
Looks so peaceful. There was about 8" of snow over hard water-ice, so it was secure.
However the bivy was at the top of this 9,000 Ft. spur peak of Mt. Deborah. We climbed the face in front to get there, and intended to continue up the North Ridge of Deborah the next day.
Luckily, we had a calm night. Can't imagine a storm hitting us there.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Kirkwood, ca
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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The bivy at the base of Half Dome is very scary. I don't think I'll bivy there again.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Temporarily Chapel Hill
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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Ditton, enjoimx. My buddy and I almost got clobbered in the middle of the night. We woke up in the middle of the night to baseball size chunks falling down all around us.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
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Mucci, that bivy is no bueno...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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The real "killer" bivy will be your last one. As luck would have it, you'll probably be asleep.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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i bivy whereever i pass out,
dirt nap bivy,
desperate bivy
bivy that just wont go away
killer bivy
tree soul bivy
further bivy
wee bivy
poachin bivy behind curry with a 4 month old
hero bivy
oregon coast bivy
nookie in the meadow bivy
phish lot bivy
cowboy bivy
she knows how to bivy
call-the-wife-im-gonna-be-late bivy
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corniss chopper
climber
breaking the speed of gravity
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
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BES1'st -yes. Pic taken from just north of the lakes outlet.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Feb 28, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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At first I was looking in the wrong place and was like, "What? seems like a fine biv......... oh"
GACK! seems like the best description thus far.
 - -
I remember reading somewhere (CMac maybe) saying that there was a time when people competed to setup their ledges on the worst possible anchors possible (backed up to the bomber anchor) with the culmination being someone setting up their portaledge on a hook and "sleeping" through the night wide-eyed and quick-breathed.
Any oldtimey pics of that?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Feb 28, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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pg13 bivy
no rock fall
but the stars they were falling
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 28, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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Killer bivy at Little Claire Lake NE of Mineral King. West side of Mt Whitney blown out in the sunset light.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 28, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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Norwegian has the best bivy's.
If they were all killer!
He'd be a legend by now.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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Cushy killer:
Excellent Adventure killer:
Rocks Please Stay Put killer:
We Both Saw Spirits of Our Dead Relatives After the Avalanche killer:
Reposting some old stuff, but it's what I got handy.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
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From the late 80s:
Two climbers I worked with, veterans of numerous bigwalls, returned with a chilling story.
They had bivied on a ledge with another party (Yosemite if my memory is correct) During the night they were awaken by rockfall in the dark. They returned to sleep thinking all was ok. In the morning they awoke to discover one of the members of the other party had died instantly in the rockfall when a large rock had landed on his chest.
That story, highlighting one of the dangers of big walls, stuck with me for many years.
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