Highlights of Yosemite Valley climbing 80's, 90's 00's?


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Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 7, 2012 - 02:14am PT
Half dome rescue 85'- first time the short haul technique was used in YOS I believe? The start what today is no short of "The BEST".


Tom at the Bridge.


The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Feb 7, 2012 - 08:25am PT
July 1990.. Dave Schultz and Peter Croft climb the Nose and the Salathe in one day.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:20am PT

1st Ascent of Swiller
David Wilson

Feb 7, 2012 - 11:25am PT
seems like Rob Miller's Quantum mechanic might be included.....
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 7, 2012 - 11:35am PT
Tim O'Neill, Dean Potter 2000 triple linkup HD, EC & Mt. Watkins

Really? I hadn't heard about that one.


Feb 7, 2012 - 11:48am PT
Tommy C Nose and Freerider free IAD.

Alex free solos RNWFHD.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Feb 7, 2012 - 11:49am PT
Credit: Wade Icey
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 7, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
One for Kevin, albeit off topic.
A friend in Norway sent it - not sure of the source.
The Warbler

the edge of America
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
^^^that's just one of the ways us yanks tell the rest of the world that we don't care what they think.^^^

Boulder climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
In China (this part at least), they write: year/month/day.

So much for the Rest-of-the-World hypothesis.

Britain isn't entirely metric either.

Feb 7, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
Highlights of Yosemite Valley climbing 80's, 90's 00's

Yosemite is the center of the Universe.

Everyone comes here but not everyone goes everywhere .....
The Warbler

the edge of America
Feb 7, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
Yes Mark,

Dean and Tim woke up at the base of HD, sent that in a couple hours, ran down the cables, into and up Tenaya Canyon, burned up Watkins, ran out to the Tioga road, HITCH HIKED to the Valley floor, and did The Nose, all in less than 24 hrs.

They're making all of us look really sssloooowww.

Dean was probably barefoot most of the time.

Oakland, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 12:26am PT
Warbler's description above defies imagination.

Caldwell doing the Nose and the Freerider in a day, just so wild.

Caldwell frees Dihedral Wall.

Rodden frees the Nose.

Rodden sends Meltdown, Valley's hardest?

Potter free-soloing Heaven, nothing like that had been done (b/c AH hadn't shown up yet).
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 8, 2012 - 12:33am PT
Tom Frost climbs El Cap four times, leads the charge to preserve Camp 4, and bring a lot of people together in the process.

From - http://alpineclub.stanford.edu/saj/0304/saj0304.htm

(and Hill, Caldwell, Honnold sending)

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 8, 2012 - 12:39am PT
Not a particular event, but an entire season...musta been about '99 or 2000 when the speed walls thing took off. Probably half the existing El Cap time records got smashed that season, and everyone seemed to be in on it, not just a team or two.

Before that, short fixing and IAD pushes were rare.

Social climber
Feb 8, 2012 - 03:35am PT
Each decade will produce its own masterpieces, perhaps one, perhaps several. Many of the feats mentioned above are described in the latest book from the Stonemasters' Press, "The Valley Climbers--Yosemite's Vertical Revolution". I haven't finished it yet, as I am rationing myself to one or two articles a day. My favourite so far is not a success story, but a glorious failure. Hank Caylor's three paragraph tale of the attempted second ascent of Southern Belle, and his fall is classic. "Then I pitched", says it all. His police mug-shot on the opposite page must be another great story. Anyone?

Feb 8, 2012 - 03:39am PT
* Girdle traverse of El Cap
* flash of Midnight Lightning
* freeing Southern Belle


Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 03:53am PT
One of the lowlights certainly has to be the opening of a pizza and beer joint over at Curry Village.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 04:07am PT
I found the previous similar thread Significant Yosemite Climbing Events Since 1994 and my post in that thread:


There is a good history through most of 1986 in the 1987 guidebook.

Which leaves late 1986-93:

 1986 FA: Southern Belle
 1987 power drilling and bolt wars
 1988 FFA: Salathe'
 1988 FFA: Southern Belle
 1988 FA: General Dynamics, Keeper of the Flame
 1988 FA: Dreamscape, The Shining
 1989 FA: Wicked Gravity, Fun Terminal, Bucket Brigade
 1991 FA: Shockwave, Black Fly, Kundalini Express
 1992 FA/FFA: The Chief
 1993 FA: Whipcord
 1993 FFA: Nose
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 04:28am PT
how about this for the 2000's

El Cap "Cragging" Tommy Caldwell FFA's on El Cap,
Justen Song and Rob Miller preMuir Wall 5.13d
Dean Potter sends King Air
second free ascent of Southern Belle by Leo Holding and Dean Potter
Ammon McNeeley and Ivo Ninov speed climbing Native Son,
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov ground up FA of Lost in Transletion (V 5.12b/c)
Ammon McNeeley, Ivo Ninov, Dean Potter speed ascent of Reticent Wall
Ally Dorey is 4th female to send Midnight Lightening
Tommy Caldwell links Freerider and The Nose in a day
Step Davis first female free ascent of Salathé Wall
Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden team free ascent of The Nose
Nico Favresse FA of L'Appât (VI 5.13a/b)
Dean Potter sends Sasquatch
Hiedi Wirtz and Vera Schulte-Pelkum set all women's speed records on RNWF, The Nose and WFLT
Steph Davis free climbs Free Rider in a day
Tommy Caldwell FFA of Dihedral Wall
Alex and Thomas Huber FA of Zodiac
Steph Davis sends Cosmic Debris
Dean Potter enchainment RNWF and Free Rider in a day
Yuji Hirayama speed ascent of Salathé Wall
Cedar Wright and Jake Whittaker FA of Psychedelic Wall (V 5.13R)
Tommy Caldwell one day free ascent of Salathé Wall
Rob Miller FA Quantum Mechanics
Alex Huber FA Crosstown Traffic
Lisa Rands sends Thriller
Alex Huber FA El Corazón
Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neil set Nose speed record
Tommy Caldwell FFA of Muir Wall
Lisa Rands sends Midnight Lightning
Alex and Thomas Hubber FA of Golden Gate
Jim Zellers snow boards Half Dome
Tommy Caldwell free ascent of Salathé Wall
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