Top 100 Kor routes.

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Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 22, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Hell of a legacy.

A timeline of his routes and climbing would be interesting. Such a high volume of climbing for so long, well after he was off the radar even.

I recall he seemed to enjoy a few of the longer routes in the Kaisergebirge in Austria, although, not sure any were FA's, I get the feeling that he soloed a few of them.

I still wonder where his route on Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks is...purportedly done with Alison Sheets. Somewhere right of Sauron's Eye maybe? Asked him to sketch it on a photo for me, but, he just traced a line with his finger...

Top 100? Tough thing to compile...certainly some of his routes are well travelled and classics...

The shear number of US states and areas he hit with new routes is amazing. An eye for a good line, to be sure!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 22, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
It's coincidental that the guy who got the first ascent of the Painted Wall passed away so closely to the date of the Great One, who failed twice, for once. I'm sure there were one or two others who dodged the mystical Kor bullets.*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3Azr9kFahQ

*
Two misses with a Ma Deuce.  There were good reasons.
Two misses with a Ma Deuce. There were good reasons.
Credit: mouse from merced
Crackslayer

Trad climber
Eldo
Apr 22, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
I climbed the priest last weekend. Honeymoon Chimney for me that will always stick out as a classic Kor route. He climbed so much rock. What a legend! He will never be forgotten.
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Apr 22, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Kor was a hero. I tracked down an original copy of beyond the vertical when I was in college and was blown away by the thing routes he did. So many were runout and with terrible gear. Very few climbers have balls like that anymore. His routes up on chiefshead in RMNP are really dangerous even today. He also put up a ton of great moderates and I learned to climb following his footsteps around the front range. Pear Buttress and Grapevine at lumpy are classics and just like any Kor routes hard for the grade.

Rest in Peace and know that you changed this sport for the better and showed us all the right way to go climbing!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 22, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
amazing climbing career

Yosemite Valley FAs

Coonyard to the Oasis 5.9 FA 1960 Layton Kor Yvon Chouinard
El Capitan, West Buttress 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1963 Layton Kor Steve Roper
Kor-Beck 5.8 A3 IV FA 1963 Layton Kor Eric Beck FFA 5.9 1966 Eric Beck Mark Klemens
Sentinel Rock, Kor-Denny Route 5.9 A3 V FA 1963 Layton Kor Glen Denny
Folly, The, Left Side 5.9 A3 FA 1964 Layton Kor Jim Bridwell
Washington Column, South Face 5.8 C1 V FA 1964 Layton Kor Chris Fredericks FFA 5.14 2002 Nick Martino Matt Wilder
Gold Wall 5.10 A3 V FA 1965 Layton Kor Tom Fender
Rattlesnake Buttress 5.8 A2 III FA 1965 Layton Kor Fred Beckey FFA 5.11a 1982 Werner Braun Rick Cashner
Yellow Corner (Turning Yellow) 5.7 A4 IV FA 1965 Layton Kor Tom Fender FFA 5.12a 1992 Walt Shipley Tucker Tech
Flying Buttress Direct 5.9 A3 V FA 1965 Chris Fredericks Layton Kor
Direct Assistance Route 5.7 A4 IV FA 1966 Layton Kor John Hudson Dick Williams
Great Slab Route 5.8 A4 V FA 1967 Layton Kor Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 16, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
Upper Great Face, The Crags, Estes Park.


philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jul 19, 2013 - 09:02am PT
Bump
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jul 19, 2013 - 10:55am PT
South Face, Washington Column, Yosemite Valley, CA. (V 5.10a A2) FA with Chris Fredericks, June 1964 .
-


Who hasn't climbed this route at least once? I must have done that line ten times for no good reason. Kor will always be remembered for granfathering what is questionable the most traveled big wall in the world. His desert routes are his real legacy, however.

JL
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jul 19, 2013 - 11:28am PT
Layton did a lot of climbs and a lot of first ascents.
Many were done in the day when free climbing was something
you did if it happened spontaneously or if it was necessary.
He was a bold free climber when he was moved to free climb or
when he was forced to do so. Routes such as Chief's Head,
Tiger's Tooth, Rogue's Arete, second pitch of Psycho...,
these were brilliant free climbs ahead of their time. But
they aren't exactly what you'd call classics. Tiger's Tooth,
a 5.10 off-width he and I did on Twin Owls in 1963 is perhaps
the closest of those three to being a really classic route.

Thus he did countless first ascents, but a lot of routes
were later free climbed by others.
It's a little tricky to say a route such as T-2 is a Layton
classic, when it's the free version that's good. While
yes he did it, then it was free climbed by Rearick and Culp. And
certainly the free version is what makes it so enjoyable now.
I personally don't mind giving Layton credit for any route
he did, but when we start talking about "best" route, well
then comes that little technicality or stipulation
as to the original climb and the free climbing version which
in fact is what makes the route a classic. Of course a few
routes were classic free or aid. Maybe at this
point it's not necessary to draw a line, as I for one loved
and still love Layton and don't want to slight him in any way.
Many of the original aid versions were nice lines, and I
personally did quite a few both ways, the original aid way and
the later free way, and I have good memories of both, but I
think rarely, if ever, does the aid version have the classic
sense the free version does.

It was a different time, a different consciousness, and when we
did certain routes originally, well, it might
have been during a snowstorm, or we had only soft European
pitons, or we were practicing for Yosemite or the big walls
of Europe, or some such, and we simply wanted to get up.... When
some of those routes were later done free, picked like ripe
free climbing plums, Layton found, as did we all, that we
too could go back and do those routes free, that the only
difference was attitude, a little switch to a free climbing
focus. I seriously doubt Layton would have had any trouble at
all, for example, with a route such as Yellow Spur free. But way
back when he first did it, well, it was just about getting up.

Maybe that's a good thing, to simply give Layton the benefit
of the doubt and assume he could have returned, had he wanted,
and free climbed many or most of those routes that later went
free.... So are we back to square one again?
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
I'm glad to see Kor's lines at Ragged on the list. Kor Crack is a fabulous climb. I always look for a Kor line when visiting an area.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
George Hurley on Wind Ridge
George Hurley on Wind Ridge
Credit: crunch

From Wind Ridge, one gets a fine view onto the wild face taken by The Bulge. Most of the time it looks steep, blank and fearsome. But, if the sun is just right, the features and holds show up in sharp relief and it's possible to trace the line of weaknesses wandering up the cliff.

Maybe this was the view, from high on Wind Ridge, that drew Layton's interest, back in 1957?

The Bulge was a visionary line, Wind Ridge obvious. Both classic. Both Kor FAs.

Two of the best 5.7's anywhere.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
Yes, now that's a great example of a classic Kor route: the Bulge,
an early route of his that remains challenging and steep and
beautiful. Most people don't know he did not place a bolt on
the crux pitch, when he did the climb first. But then people
scolded him for doing those runouts. So he returned down from the
top and placed that bolt. Just a few years later I doubt he would
have worried about what anyone said....

Of course the ratings. We always thought Wind Ridge was 5.6 and
the Bulge solid and scary (runout) 5.8!!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jul 19, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
Kor Ingalls- Castleton

South Face- the Column


YES!


The Honeymoon Chimney- Priest

Ouch
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
More Kor
SicMic

climber
across the street from Marshall
Dec 5, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
w/ Petro and Kor in Camp 4
w/ Petro and Kor in Camp 4
Credit: SicMic
With Steve and Layton in Camp 4 before Kor and I climbed ElCap in 1988.


Layton enjoyed Rosy Crucifixion (his route) when we did it together.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 5, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
Pat mentions the OW Tiger's Tooth at Lumpy a few posts up.
Who's done that sucka? I recall it being a bit of a wrasslin' match.

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