Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
steve shea
climber
|
|
Philo, how's that neck coming along? Yes Pyramid NF. I think we did it twice. Once in spring and once in winter. Kennedy, Lou Dawson and me. Maybe it was a wintery spring! For sure the route I remember with Mike and Lou goes directly up the middle of the face to maybe one third or more, height. We bivied on a ledge which ran the width of the face it seemed. The plan was to go direct. The rock was better higher and frozen but upon close inspection would have taken some aid with mostly free. We did not have the gear so we filed it for a later attempt. After too much time scoping the line we traversed right to a chimney system choked with intermittent ice, snow and rotten rock. Can't remember how many pitches but it exited onto the northwest (right skyline)ridge at an obvious notch. From there it was a short hike to the summit. It was maybe 5.9, grade 4 ice, and deep snow. I remember we had fierce winds and a constant spindrift in the chimney. The worst part was the descent with mandatory avalanche exposure. Never desperate but sporting nontheless. The spring route had better ice and more to the left on the face proper. Where did you go? BTW Kennedy was the chronicler/photographer of all these ancient climbs. I'm sure he has it exact. This is just a recollection. Also Kor spent some time around here mostly in Glenwood Canyon climbing on those huge rubble heap walls I think, could be wrong.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
|
Colorado1959 Diagonal, Lower East Face, Longs Peak, CO. (V 5.9 A3) with Ray Northcutt.[4]
1959 T2, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (current rating 5.11a) 1st ascent with Gerry Roach[5]
1960 Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (5.9 (A1)) FA with David Dornan, Feb 21, 1960[6]
1962 Psycho, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (III 5.9 A4) 1st ascent with Huntley Ingalls[7]
1962 The Naked Edge, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (III 5.9 A3) with Bob Culp.[8] Entire route with Rick Horn, 1964 (5.9 A4).[9]
1962 Yellow Wall, The Diamond, Longs Peak, CO. (V 5.8 A4) 2nd route on the wall, with Charles Roskosz.[10]
1963 Canary Pass, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (III 5.7 A4-) 1st ascent with Pat Ament[11]
1965 Green Slab, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO. (VI 5.8 A4) with Brian Martz.[12]
[edit] Southwest deserts1961 Kor-Ingalls Route, Castleton Tower, Utah; FA of tower with Huntley Ingalls[13]
1962 Finger of Fate, The Titan, Fisher Towers, Utah. FA of formation (V 5.8 A3) with Huntley Ingalls and George Hurley.[14]
1962 Standing Rock (Monument Basin), near Moab, UT. FA of formation with Huntley Ingalls and Steve Komito.[15]
1963 Kor-Dalke-Schafer IV 5.10 A1, Monster Tower, Canyonlands National Park, Utah; FA of Monster tower with Larry Dalke and Cub Schafer, 26 December 1963[16]
1964 North Face III 5.9 A3(?), Argon Tower, Arches National Park, Utah; FA with Bob Bradley and Charlie Kemp, 17 January 1964[17]
[edit] California1963 West Buttress, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California. (VI 5.10 A3+) FA with Steve Roper.[18]
1964 South Face, Washington Column, Yosemite Valley, CA. (V 5.10a A2) FA with Chris Fredericks, June 1964 .[19]
1965 Gold Wall, Ribbon Falls Area, Yosemite Valley, CA. (V 5.10 A3) FA with Tom Fender, May 1965.[20]
[edit] Outlying areas1963 Robbins Route, Mount Proboscis, Logan Mountains, Northwest Territory, Canada. FA with Dick McCracken, Jim McCarthy and Royal Robbins, Aug 4-7, 1963.[21]
Blatently stolen from wickapedia who prolly stole it from someone else.
Hey I have done one on that list(more than once) so that is not too bad.
I would be damn proud to do any others on that list and hope to with some. Would love to do the Yellow Wall to Forrest Finish on Longs. Anyone done it, but more importantly does that count as a Kor route?
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
|
When you type his name into the search box on mountain project you get this list:
West Buttress (pitch 1&2)
5.10a (1)
Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan Base Routes
South
5.7 (1)
Trad, 2 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II
CO : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress
Layton Kor's Warm Up
V0 (1)
Boulder, 10 feet
VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : ... : Colorado Boulder
V.D.
5.10a/b PG13 (1)
Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet
NY : The Gunks : ... : l. Sleepy Hollow
The Silent Line
5.10 C1 (6)
Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV
CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Gold Wall
West Buttress
5.10- (1)
Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
WY : Wind River Range : ... : Musembeah Peak
Kor-Dalke Route
5.12a R (0)
Trad, 5 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
CO : Flatirons : ... : The Maiden
Fun Ramp
5.9+ (1)
Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
UT : Moab Area : ... : Northside Routes
Left Center
5.9+ R (5)
Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Lower Great Face
Kornerstone Edge
5.7+ PG13 (1)
Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Deville 3
Upper Kor's Crack
5.9 (11)
Trad, TR, 45 feet
NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Potrillo Cliffs
Lower Kor's Crack
5.9+ (5)
Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet
NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Potrillo Cliffs
Venus Needle, West Face
5.10 A3 (1)
Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 275 feet, Grade II
AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Cleopatra's Needle Area
Cooper-Kor
5.10+ R (2)
Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV
International : Canada : ... : Pigeon Spire
South Face
5.8 C1 (54)
Trad, Aid, 11 pitches, 1200 feet
CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Washington Column
West Chimney
5.6 (34)
Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...
Kor's Korner
5.12a/b (4)
Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
CO : Colorado Springs : ... : West Side
Kor Crack
5.9- (7)
Trad, 100 feet
CT : Central- Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Bombay
5.8+ (3)
Trad, 100 feet
CT : Central- Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Animal Crack
5.9 (3)
Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
CT : Central- Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
Kor Wall
5.8+ (6)
Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon
Right Side aka Bong Session
5.10c (7)
Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab
Kor Route
5.8 C2 (5)
Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III
UT : Moab Area : ... : Dolomite Spire
Pear Buttress
5.8 (165)
Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : J-Crack Slab Area
Porcelain Arete
5.9+ (6)
Trad, 9 pitches, 1800 feet, Grade IV
CO : Gunnison : ... : North Rim Routes
Neurosis
5.10d R (5)
Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
Kor Line (Garden Salad)
5.9- (8)
Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
CO : Glenwood Springs : ... : Poison Ivy Wall
Dessert
5.9 (5)
Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress
Russian Arete
5.9+ (29)
Trad, 6 pitches, Grade IV
CO : Gunnison : ... : North Rim Routes
Rotwand Route
5.7 X (6)
Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand
Scotch and Soda
5.11b R (5)
Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - S Face
The Cruise
5.10+ (20)
Trad, 12 pitches, 1700 feet, Grade V
CO : Gunnison : ... : North Chasm View Wall
Kinnder Rooten
5.9- X (2)
Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand
Crack of Delight
5.7 (3)
Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II
CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Lower East Face
Crack of Desperation
5.10a (9)
Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock
Jackson's Wall Direct
5.10a (20)
Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
West Face [Bastille]
5.11a (35)
Trad, 2 pitches, 270 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face
South Face of Tower One
5.10c R (8)
Trad, 3 pitches, 320 feet, Grade II
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
Kor Route
5.10 R (4)
Trad, Grade II
UT : Moab Area : ... : Monster Tower
South East Arete/Second
5.7 (18)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Flatirons : ... : Second Flatiron
Impish
5.5 (7)
Trad
UT : Moab Area : ... : Dock Rock
Squeeze Box
5.9 (6)
Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
CO : Grand Junction : ... : Fruita Canyon
Mr President
5.10d (4)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
Kor Route
5.9 (26)
Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches
CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Saber
Italian Arete
5.9 R (35)
Trad, 1 pitch
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
Edge of Time
5.9 (117)
Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 85 feet
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : The Fin
Visible Panty Line
5.10a (11)
Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street
Deville 3
5.7 (4)
Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Deville 3
Night
5.11 X (2)
Trad, 1 pitch
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress
Satan's Slab
5.8 R (27)
Trad, 8 pitches
CO : Flatirons : ... : Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab
Its the first page of at least 7. Not sure all are his routes, but I'm just sayin...
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
crack of fear,
lumpy ridge.
good passage.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
|
Ok only a like a page and three quarter at mountain project so that's 90 routes, but I am sure they are missing a few:
Routes
Name Rating Type Location
Northwest Corner
5.11a (50)
Trad
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face
Blackjack
5.10b/c R (4)
Trad
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - S Face
Grand Giraffe
5.10a (69)
Trad, 5 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
Rogue's Arete
5.10a R (3)
Trad
CO : Flatirons : ... : Overhang Rock
West Door
5.8 (2)
Trad, 1 pitch
CO : Flatirons : ... : Third Flatiron
North Face
5.8 (6)
Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Sharksfin
Perversion
5.9 (64)
Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet
CO : Boulder : ... : Mickey Mouse Wall
Direct Second Buttress
5.9 (12)
Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III
CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Hallett Peak
X-M
5.10c R (48)
Trad, 3 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face
South Face
5.9+ (25)
Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
Long Dong Wall (aka Bell Tower)
5.11a (19)
Trad, 5 pitches
CO : Grand Junction : ... : Kissing Couple
Turnkorner
5.10a (37)
Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
Super Slab
5.10+ (76)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
Honeymoon Chimney
5.11a (39)
Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
UT : Moab Area : ... : The Priest
Clementine
5.5 (28)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail
Kor-Ingalls Route
5.9 (203)
Trad, Grade III
UT : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower
West Dihedral
5.4 (75)
Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail
The Owl
5.7 (128)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Boulder Canyon : The Dome
South Face
5.10c X (7)
Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : The Brick Wall
North Face Center
5.7 (169)
Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
Wind Ridge
5.8 (351)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face
Calypso
5.6 (326)
Trad, 3 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face
The Yellow Traverse
5.9 (12)
Trad
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - S Face
Yellow Wall
5.11b R (27)
Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet
CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Diamond
Outer Space
5.10c R (155)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face
The Yellow Spur
5.9 (305)
Trad, 6 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
Ruper
5.8+ (202)
Trad, 6 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
Rosy Crucifixion
5.10a PG13 (145)
Trad, 3 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two
Guenese
5.11a (43)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Roof Routes
T2
5.10d R (56)
Trad, 7 pitches, 700 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two
The Naked Edge
5.11a/b (99)
Trad, 6 pitches, 460 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two
The Diving Board
5.11a (22)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two
Blackwalk
5.10b/c R (46)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress
The Bulge
5.7 R (99)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress
Anthill Direct
5.9 R (94)
Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress
Kor's Flake
5.7 (118)
Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
Crack of Fear
5.10d (11)
Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
Tiger's Tooth
5.9+ (15)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
West Buttress
5.9+ (137)
Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face
Temporary Like Achilles
5.10b (35)
Trad, Sport
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Roof Routes
Photos
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
Shangri-La, Monument Valley
Gordo on top.
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
he doesnt look gordo to me.
|
|
dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
|
|
Kor and Gill would have to be on the top of my hero list.
Hey Ron, how doe's Layton feel theses days? Great photo.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
Kor Problem in Camp 4!
South Face WC
Glue that binds!
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
Spoke to him 5 days ago. He is hanging in there. The docs keep poking him.
He was going to try Jalapeno Tower next month, but now doesn't look like it.
|
|
big ears
Trad climber
?
|
|
The first time I topped out The Owl there were 2 CU freshmen laying out in their bikini's, so I've always liked that route
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
|
What did Layton do for work in order to get out as much as he did for so long? He must have had a somewhat flexible schedule. Seems like I remember hearing about him being a bricklayer.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
I wonder what he would consider his best routes, with 50+ years experience and perspective?
It's noticeable that no one has said much about his climbs in the Alps or elsewhere, but then this place can be a bit parochial at times. Kor may not have gotten to the top of the Eiger Direct, but was key to the success of the climb.
|
|
Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
|
|
Red Dihedral aka Maiden Voyage, III, 5.9 - Black Canyon
Not his best or boldest, but the classic, clean moderate of the Black. Good find.
|
|
crunch
Social climber
CO
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
|
Bump for end of an era and a legend
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
|
Hell of a legacy.
A timeline of his routes and climbing would be interesting. Such a high volume of climbing for so long, well after he was off the radar even.
I recall he seemed to enjoy a few of the longer routes in the Kaisergebirge in Austria, although, not sure any were FA's, I get the feeling that he soloed a few of them.
I still wonder where his route on Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks is...purportedly done with Alison Sheets. Somewhere right of Sauron's Eye maybe? Asked him to sketch it on a photo for me, but, he just traced a line with his finger...
Top 100? Tough thing to compile...certainly some of his routes are well travelled and classics...
The shear number of US states and areas he hit with new routes is amazing. An eye for a good line, to be sure!
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
|
It's coincidental that the guy who got the first ascent of the Painted Wall passed away so closely to the date of the Great One, who failed twice, for once. I'm sure there were one or two others who dodged the mystical Kor bullets.*
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3Azr9kFahQ
*
|
|
Crackslayer
Trad climber
Eldo
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
|
I climbed the priest last weekend. Honeymoon Chimney for me that will always stick out as a classic Kor route. He climbed so much rock. What a legend! He will never be forgotten.
|
|
Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
|
Kor was a hero. I tracked down an original copy of beyond the vertical when I was in college and was blown away by the thing routes he did. So many were runout and with terrible gear. Very few climbers have balls like that anymore. His routes up on chiefshead in RMNP are really dangerous even today. He also put up a ton of great moderates and I learned to climb following his footsteps around the front range. Pear Buttress and Grapevine at lumpy are classics and just like any Kor routes hard for the grade.
Rest in Peace and know that you changed this sport for the better and showed us all the right way to go climbing!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!