Top 100 Kor routes.

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mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
What are the top 100 routes that Layton Kor put in? I have done a few and thought they were better than good. Ruper, the Yellow Spur, and Kor's Flake are 3 that that come right to mind. Anyone else out there done any, have an opinion, or better yet have pictures? I heard he put up a few things in the desert.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 31, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
This could be a very good thread.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 31, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
Mr. President at Lumpy Ridge should make the list.

I did that route back in the early 80's with Mike Caldwell, who told me that Kor chose that name for the route because it is deceptive and never does what you think it should...

I'll never forget that day. On the hike out to the crag we came across Gunks master Dick Williams. Then when we were at the base it became apparent that I had forgotten my harness. Mike had a raging psyche on, and there was no getting out of it so I tied in with some webbing and off we went...
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 31, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
The route that when freed became known as the Cruise is a fine climb by anyone's standards.
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Jan 31, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
He put up gem's everywhere - including the very nice Kor Crack at Ragged Mountain in CT. Is there a place that he didn't pick some plums?
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jan 31, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
Most everybody has done Kor's South Face of the Washington Column as their 1st Yo wall, yes?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 31, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
Although the past few decades I have only climbed routes that I put up, early on I did a bunch of Layton's routes in Eldo, RMNP, Yosemite, and the desert in particular.

But a hundred?

Has even Chris Kalous climbed that many?

My favorite has to be the last one;
Layton Kor on his way to the previously virgin summit of the Spire of ...
Layton Kor on his way to the previously virgin summit of the Spire of Fire, May, '10
Credit: Piton Ron
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 31, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
Ron that is an absolutely Awesome picture! Awesome with a capital A.
adikted

Trad climber
Jan 31, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
Kor flake was one of my first multipitch leads.....i still remember getting inside
That flake and almost pooping my pants....good times!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 31, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
I agree with Ksolem. Ron that picture is a great n of Layton.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 31, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Titan
Standing Rock
Column
Monster Tower
West Butt
Castleton

DAMN!

Dude was SWOLE!

WOO HOO!!!

J
FrankZappa

Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
Jan 31, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
Naked Edge
Wisdom
Outer Space
NW Corner of Bastille

Left Mitten Thumb (Monument Valley)
steve shea

climber
Jan 31, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Yellow Wall, Jack of Diamonds, Winter Route, Diagonal, Overhang Dihedral, Grey Pillar, Directissima and more all on Long's I don't care what they say about the Hulk, The Diamond and entire East Face of Long's is the best alpine rockclimbing in the lower 48. The best part is Kor's signature all over it. A storm on the Diamond now that's some good clean living.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 31, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Hi Steve. I recall you also did a route up the North Face of Pyramid Peak.
I am curious how your lined matches up or is different from ours in 1977?
Randisi

Boulder climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Jan 31, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
How many of us could even name a hundred Kor routes?

How many did he even do?
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:52pm PT

There are so many!!!!
Ruper. One he didn't do but loved was Northcutt-Carter on
Hallet--supposed to be one of his favorites, and a good 'un!
Johnny K.

climber
Jan 31, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
Layton Kor=Awesome Gentleman.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jan 31, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
Kor-Ingalls on Castleton Tower.

Ruper

NW Face, Chiefshead, RMNP.

Diretessima, to Chasm View, Longs Peak, RMNP.

Yellow Spur

Titan, Fisher Towers.

Just a few that came to mind...
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Jan 31, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
Harlin Route on the Eiger without question.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Jan 31, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
BItchin stuff GUYS!
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Feb 1, 2012 - 03:18am PT
East Face of Pigeon Spire, Bugaboos.
5.9 18 pitches.
With Ed Cooper.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 1, 2012 - 03:52am PT
Who needs a hundred? I would buy a book called just "Kor's best". Let's get real, isn't that enough?
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Feb 1, 2012 - 04:16am PT
I'm with Bruce. I've been told first hand the traverse was genius. As for the Black, just climb the Cruise and you'll get a taste of his work and his eye for a line. Jim Dunn recently told me this; "we've all done Kor routes." Kor is like glue. His routes hold us all together because every one of us has climbed one.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 1, 2012 - 04:19am PT
The Kor Problem, C4 boulders, for surz yo.
steve shea

climber
Feb 1, 2012 - 09:31am PT
Philo, how's that neck coming along? Yes Pyramid NF. I think we did it twice. Once in spring and once in winter. Kennedy, Lou Dawson and me. Maybe it was a wintery spring! For sure the route I remember with Mike and Lou goes directly up the middle of the face to maybe one third or more, height. We bivied on a ledge which ran the width of the face it seemed. The plan was to go direct. The rock was better higher and frozen but upon close inspection would have taken some aid with mostly free. We did not have the gear so we filed it for a later attempt. After too much time scoping the line we traversed right to a chimney system choked with intermittent ice, snow and rotten rock. Can't remember how many pitches but it exited onto the northwest (right skyline)ridge at an obvious notch. From there it was a short hike to the summit. It was maybe 5.9, grade 4 ice, and deep snow. I remember we had fierce winds and a constant spindrift in the chimney. The worst part was the descent with mandatory avalanche exposure. Never desperate but sporting nontheless. The spring route had better ice and more to the left on the face proper. Where did you go? BTW Kennedy was the chronicler/photographer of all these ancient climbs. I'm sure he has it exact. This is just a recollection. Also Kor spent some time around here mostly in Glenwood Canyon climbing on those huge rubble heap walls I think, could be wrong.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Colorado1959 Diagonal, Lower East Face, Longs Peak, CO. (V 5.9 A3) with Ray Northcutt.[4]
1959 T2, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (current rating 5.11a) 1st ascent with Gerry Roach[5]
1960 Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (5.9 (A1)) FA with David Dornan, Feb 21, 1960[6]
1962 Psycho, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (III 5.9 A4) 1st ascent with Huntley Ingalls[7]
1962 The Naked Edge, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (III 5.9 A3) with Bob Culp.[8] Entire route with Rick Horn, 1964 (5.9 A4).[9]
1962 Yellow Wall, The Diamond, Longs Peak, CO. (V 5.8 A4) 2nd route on the wall, with Charles Roskosz.[10]
1963 Canary Pass, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon, CO. (III 5.7 A4-) 1st ascent with Pat Ament[11]
1965 Green Slab, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO. (VI 5.8 A4) with Brian Martz.[12]
[edit] Southwest deserts1961 Kor-Ingalls Route, Castleton Tower, Utah; FA of tower with Huntley Ingalls[13]
1962 Finger of Fate, The Titan, Fisher Towers, Utah. FA of formation (V 5.8 A3) with Huntley Ingalls and George Hurley.[14]
1962 Standing Rock (Monument Basin), near Moab, UT. FA of formation with Huntley Ingalls and Steve Komito.[15]
1963 Kor-Dalke-Schafer IV 5.10 A1, Monster Tower, Canyonlands National Park, Utah; FA of Monster tower with Larry Dalke and Cub Schafer, 26 December 1963[16]
1964 North Face III 5.9 A3(?), Argon Tower, Arches National Park, Utah; FA with Bob Bradley and Charlie Kemp, 17 January 1964[17]
[edit] California1963 West Buttress, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California. (VI 5.10 A3+) FA with Steve Roper.[18]
1964 South Face, Washington Column, Yosemite Valley, CA. (V 5.10a A2) FA with Chris Fredericks, June 1964 .[19]
1965 Gold Wall, Ribbon Falls Area, Yosemite Valley, CA. (V 5.10 A3) FA with Tom Fender, May 1965.[20]
[edit] Outlying areas1963 Robbins Route, Mount Proboscis, Logan Mountains, Northwest Territory, Canada. FA with Dick McCracken, Jim McCarthy and Royal Robbins, Aug 4-7, 1963.[21]


Blatently stolen from wickapedia who prolly stole it from someone else.

Hey I have done one on that list(more than once) so that is not too bad.
I would be damn proud to do any others on that list and hope to with some. Would love to do the Yellow Wall to Forrest Finish on Longs. Anyone done it, but more importantly does that count as a Kor route?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
When you type his name into the search box on mountain project you get this list:

West Buttress (pitch 1&2)
5.10a (1)
Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan Base Routes

South
5.7 (1)
Trad, 2 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II
CO : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress

Layton Kor's Warm Up
V0 (1)
Boulder, 10 feet
VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : ... : Colorado Boulder

V.D.
5.10a/b PG13 (1)
Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet
NY : The Gunks : ... : l. Sleepy Hollow

The Silent Line
5.10 C1 (6)
Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV
CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Gold Wall

West Buttress
5.10- (1)
Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
WY : Wind River Range : ... : Musembeah Peak

Kor-Dalke Route
5.12a R (0)
Trad, 5 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
CO : Flatirons : ... : The Maiden

Fun Ramp
5.9+ (1)
Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
UT : Moab Area : ... : Northside Routes

Left Center
5.9+ R (5)
Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Lower Great Face

Kornerstone Edge
5.7+ PG13 (1)
Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Deville 3

Upper Kor's Crack
5.9 (11)
Trad, TR, 45 feet
NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Potrillo Cliffs

Lower Kor's Crack
5.9+ (5)
Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet
NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Potrillo Cliffs

Venus Needle, West Face
5.10 A3 (1)
Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 275 feet, Grade II
AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Cleopatra's Needle Area

Cooper-Kor
5.10+ R (2)
Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV
International : Canada : ... : Pigeon Spire

South Face
5.8 C1 (54)
Trad, Aid, 11 pitches, 1200 feet
CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Washington Column

West Chimney
5.6 (34)
Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...

Kor's Korner
5.12a/b (4)
Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
CO : Colorado Springs : ... : West Side

Kor Crack
5.9- (7)
Trad, 100 feet
CT : Central- Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...

Bombay
5.8+ (3)
Trad, 100 feet
CT : Central- Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...

Animal Crack
5.9 (3)
Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
CT : Central- Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...

Kor Wall
5.8+ (6)
Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon

Right Side aka Bong Session
5.10c (7)
Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab

Kor Route
5.8 C2 (5)
Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III
UT : Moab Area : ... : Dolomite Spire

Pear Buttress
5.8 (165)
Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : J-Crack Slab Area

Porcelain Arete
5.9+ (6)
Trad, 9 pitches, 1800 feet, Grade IV
CO : Gunnison : ... : North Rim Routes

Neurosis
5.10d R (5)
Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Kor Line (Garden Salad)
5.9- (8)
Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
CO : Glenwood Springs : ... : Poison Ivy Wall

Dessert
5.9 (5)
Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress

Russian Arete
5.9+ (29)
Trad, 6 pitches, Grade IV
CO : Gunnison : ... : North Rim Routes

Rotwand Route
5.7 X (6)
Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand

Scotch and Soda
5.11b R (5)
Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - S Face

The Cruise
5.10+ (20)
Trad, 12 pitches, 1700 feet, Grade V
CO : Gunnison : ... : North Chasm View Wall

Kinnder Rooten
5.9- X (2)
Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand

Crack of Delight
5.7 (3)
Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II
CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Lower East Face

Crack of Desperation
5.10a (9)
Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock

Jackson's Wall Direct
5.10a (20)
Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock

West Face [Bastille]
5.11a (35)
Trad, 2 pitches, 270 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

South Face of Tower One
5.10c R (8)
Trad, 3 pitches, 320 feet, Grade II
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Kor Route
5.10 R (4)
Trad, Grade II
UT : Moab Area : ... : Monster Tower

South East Arete/Second
5.7 (18)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Flatirons : ... : Second Flatiron

Impish
5.5 (7)
Trad
UT : Moab Area : ... : Dock Rock

Squeeze Box
5.9 (6)
Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
CO : Grand Junction : ... : Fruita Canyon

Mr President
5.10d (4)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress

Kor Route
5.9 (26)
Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches
CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Saber

Italian Arete
5.9 R (35)
Trad, 1 pitch
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Edge of Time
5.9 (117)
Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 85 feet
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : The Fin

Visible Panty Line
5.10a (11)
Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

Deville 3
5.7 (4)
Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Deville 3

Night
5.11 X (2)
Trad, 1 pitch
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress

Satan's Slab
5.8 R (27)
Trad, 8 pitches
CO : Flatirons : ... : Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab



Its the first page of at least 7. Not sure all are his routes, but I'm just sayin...
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Feb 1, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
crack of fear,
lumpy ridge.

good passage.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
Ok only a like a page and three quarter at mountain project so that's 90 routes, but I am sure they are missing a few:
Routes
Name Rating Type Location
Northwest Corner
5.11a (50)
Trad
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face

Blackjack
5.10b/c R (4)
Trad
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - S Face

Grand Giraffe
5.10a (69)
Trad, 5 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Rogue's Arete
5.10a R (3)
Trad
CO : Flatirons : ... : Overhang Rock

West Door
5.8 (2)
Trad, 1 pitch
CO : Flatirons : ... : Third Flatiron

North Face
5.8 (6)
Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet
CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Sharksfin

Perversion
5.9 (64)
Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet
CO : Boulder : ... : Mickey Mouse Wall

Direct Second Buttress
5.9 (12)
Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III
CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Hallett Peak

X-M
5.10c R (48)
Trad, 3 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face

South Face
5.9+ (25)
Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock

Long Dong Wall (aka Bell Tower)
5.11a (19)
Trad, 5 pitches
CO : Grand Junction : ... : Kissing Couple

Turnkorner
5.10a (37)
Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress

Super Slab
5.10+ (76)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Honeymoon Chimney
5.11a (39)
Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
UT : Moab Area : ... : The Priest

Clementine
5.5 (28)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail

Kor-Ingalls Route
5.9 (203)
Trad, Grade III
UT : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower

West Dihedral
5.4 (75)
Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail

The Owl
5.7 (128)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Boulder Canyon : The Dome

South Face
5.10c X (7)
Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : The Brick Wall

North Face Center
5.7 (169)
Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet
CO : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock

Wind Ridge
5.8 (351)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face

Calypso
5.6 (326)
Trad, 3 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face

The Yellow Traverse
5.9 (12)
Trad
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - S Face

Yellow Wall
5.11b R (27)
Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet
CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Diamond

Outer Space
5.10c R (155)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face

The Yellow Spur
5.9 (305)
Trad, 6 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Ruper
5.8+ (202)
Trad, 6 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One

Rosy Crucifixion
5.10a PG13 (145)
Trad, 3 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two

Guenese
5.11a (43)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Roof Routes

T2
5.10d R (56)
Trad, 7 pitches, 700 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two

The Naked Edge
5.11a/b (99)
Trad, 6 pitches, 460 feet
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two

The Diving Board
5.11a (22)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower Two

Blackwalk
5.10b/c R (46)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress

The Bulge
5.7 R (99)
Trad, 4 pitches
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress

Anthill Direct
5.9 R (94)
Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress

Kor's Flake
5.7 (118)
Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress

Crack of Fear
5.10d (11)
Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls

Tiger's Tooth
5.9+ (15)
Trad, 2 pitches
CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls

West Buttress
5.9+ (137)
Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

Temporary Like Achilles
5.10b (35)
Trad, Sport
CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Roof Routes

Photos
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Feb 1, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
Shangri-La, Monument Valley

Gordo on top.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 1, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
he doesnt look gordo to me.
dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
Feb 1, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
Kor and Gill would have to be on the top of my hero list.

Hey Ron, how doe's Layton feel theses days? Great photo.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 1, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
Kor Problem in Camp 4!

South Face WC




Glue that binds!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 2, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
Spoke to him 5 days ago. He is hanging in there. The docs keep poking him.

He was going to try Jalapeno Tower next month, but now doesn't look like it.
big ears

Trad climber
?
Feb 2, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
The first time I topped out The Owl there were 2 CU freshmen laying out in their bikini's, so I've always liked that route
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
What did Layton do for work in order to get out as much as he did for so long? He must have had a somewhat flexible schedule. Seems like I remember hearing about him being a bricklayer.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 2, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
I wonder what he would consider his best routes, with 50+ years experience and perspective?

It's noticeable that no one has said much about his climbs in the Alps or elsewhere, but then this place can be a bit parochial at times. Kor may not have gotten to the top of the Eiger Direct, but was key to the success of the climb.
Snorky

Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
Feb 3, 2012 - 02:19am PT
Red Dihedral aka Maiden Voyage, III, 5.9 - Black Canyon

Not his best or boldest, but the classic, clean moderate of the Black. Good find.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Apr 22, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Bump for end of an era and a legend
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 22, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Middle-Cathedral-Kor-Beck

"Twenty minute approach" that must've taken Layton ten.

Sure would be good to hear Eric tell of this route from 1962.

We used to refer to it as the Kor-Beck Dirt Direct in 1971.

It has been cleaned out considerably, I've heard.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 22, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Hell of a legacy.

A timeline of his routes and climbing would be interesting. Such a high volume of climbing for so long, well after he was off the radar even.

I recall he seemed to enjoy a few of the longer routes in the Kaisergebirge in Austria, although, not sure any were FA's, I get the feeling that he soloed a few of them.

I still wonder where his route on Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks is...purportedly done with Alison Sheets. Somewhere right of Sauron's Eye maybe? Asked him to sketch it on a photo for me, but, he just traced a line with his finger...

Top 100? Tough thing to compile...certainly some of his routes are well travelled and classics...

The shear number of US states and areas he hit with new routes is amazing. An eye for a good line, to be sure!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 22, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
It's coincidental that the guy who got the first ascent of the Painted Wall passed away so closely to the date of the Great One, who failed twice, for once. I'm sure there were one or two others who dodged the mystical Kor bullets.*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3Azr9kFahQ

*
Two misses with a Ma Deuce.  There were good reasons.
Two misses with a Ma Deuce. There were good reasons.
Credit: mouse from merced
Crackslayer

Trad climber
Eldo
Apr 22, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
I climbed the priest last weekend. Honeymoon Chimney for me that will always stick out as a classic Kor route. He climbed so much rock. What a legend! He will never be forgotten.
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Apr 22, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Kor was a hero. I tracked down an original copy of beyond the vertical when I was in college and was blown away by the thing routes he did. So many were runout and with terrible gear. Very few climbers have balls like that anymore. His routes up on chiefshead in RMNP are really dangerous even today. He also put up a ton of great moderates and I learned to climb following his footsteps around the front range. Pear Buttress and Grapevine at lumpy are classics and just like any Kor routes hard for the grade.

Rest in Peace and know that you changed this sport for the better and showed us all the right way to go climbing!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 22, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
amazing climbing career

Yosemite Valley FAs

Coonyard to the Oasis 5.9 FA 1960 Layton Kor Yvon Chouinard
El Capitan, West Buttress 5.10 A3+ VI FA 1963 Layton Kor Steve Roper
Kor-Beck 5.8 A3 IV FA 1963 Layton Kor Eric Beck FFA 5.9 1966 Eric Beck Mark Klemens
Sentinel Rock, Kor-Denny Route 5.9 A3 V FA 1963 Layton Kor Glen Denny
Folly, The, Left Side 5.9 A3 FA 1964 Layton Kor Jim Bridwell
Washington Column, South Face 5.8 C1 V FA 1964 Layton Kor Chris Fredericks FFA 5.14 2002 Nick Martino Matt Wilder
Gold Wall 5.10 A3 V FA 1965 Layton Kor Tom Fender
Rattlesnake Buttress 5.8 A2 III FA 1965 Layton Kor Fred Beckey FFA 5.11a 1982 Werner Braun Rick Cashner
Yellow Corner (Turning Yellow) 5.7 A4 IV FA 1965 Layton Kor Tom Fender FFA 5.12a 1992 Walt Shipley Tucker Tech
Flying Buttress Direct 5.9 A3 V FA 1965 Chris Fredericks Layton Kor
Direct Assistance Route 5.7 A4 IV FA 1966 Layton Kor John Hudson Dick Williams
Great Slab Route 5.8 A4 V FA 1967 Layton Kor Jim Madsen Kim Schmitz
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 16, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
Upper Great Face, The Crags, Estes Park.


philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jul 19, 2013 - 09:02am PT
Bump
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jul 19, 2013 - 10:55am PT
South Face, Washington Column, Yosemite Valley, CA. (V 5.10a A2) FA with Chris Fredericks, June 1964 .
-


Who hasn't climbed this route at least once? I must have done that line ten times for no good reason. Kor will always be remembered for granfathering what is questionable the most traveled big wall in the world. His desert routes are his real legacy, however.

JL
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jul 19, 2013 - 11:28am PT
Layton did a lot of climbs and a lot of first ascents.
Many were done in the day when free climbing was something
you did if it happened spontaneously or if it was necessary.
He was a bold free climber when he was moved to free climb or
when he was forced to do so. Routes such as Chief's Head,
Tiger's Tooth, Rogue's Arete, second pitch of Psycho...,
these were brilliant free climbs ahead of their time. But
they aren't exactly what you'd call classics. Tiger's Tooth,
a 5.10 off-width he and I did on Twin Owls in 1963 is perhaps
the closest of those three to being a really classic route.

Thus he did countless first ascents, but a lot of routes
were later free climbed by others.
It's a little tricky to say a route such as T-2 is a Layton
classic, when it's the free version that's good. While
yes he did it, then it was free climbed by Rearick and Culp. And
certainly the free version is what makes it so enjoyable now.
I personally don't mind giving Layton credit for any route
he did, but when we start talking about "best" route, well
then comes that little technicality or stipulation
as to the original climb and the free climbing version which
in fact is what makes the route a classic. Of course a few
routes were classic free or aid. Maybe at this
point it's not necessary to draw a line, as I for one loved
and still love Layton and don't want to slight him in any way.
Many of the original aid versions were nice lines, and I
personally did quite a few both ways, the original aid way and
the later free way, and I have good memories of both, but I
think rarely, if ever, does the aid version have the classic
sense the free version does.

It was a different time, a different consciousness, and when we
did certain routes originally, well, it might
have been during a snowstorm, or we had only soft European
pitons, or we were practicing for Yosemite or the big walls
of Europe, or some such, and we simply wanted to get up.... When
some of those routes were later done free, picked like ripe
free climbing plums, Layton found, as did we all, that we
too could go back and do those routes free, that the only
difference was attitude, a little switch to a free climbing
focus. I seriously doubt Layton would have had any trouble at
all, for example, with a route such as Yellow Spur free. But way
back when he first did it, well, it was just about getting up.

Maybe that's a good thing, to simply give Layton the benefit
of the doubt and assume he could have returned, had he wanted,
and free climbed many or most of those routes that later went
free.... So are we back to square one again?
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
I'm glad to see Kor's lines at Ragged on the list. Kor Crack is a fabulous climb. I always look for a Kor line when visiting an area.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
George Hurley on Wind Ridge
George Hurley on Wind Ridge
Credit: crunch

From Wind Ridge, one gets a fine view onto the wild face taken by The Bulge. Most of the time it looks steep, blank and fearsome. But, if the sun is just right, the features and holds show up in sharp relief and it's possible to trace the line of weaknesses wandering up the cliff.

Maybe this was the view, from high on Wind Ridge, that drew Layton's interest, back in 1957?

The Bulge was a visionary line, Wind Ridge obvious. Both classic. Both Kor FAs.

Two of the best 5.7's anywhere.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
Yes, now that's a great example of a classic Kor route: the Bulge,
an early route of his that remains challenging and steep and
beautiful. Most people don't know he did not place a bolt on
the crux pitch, when he did the climb first. But then people
scolded him for doing those runouts. So he returned down from the
top and placed that bolt. Just a few years later I doubt he would
have worried about what anyone said....

Of course the ratings. We always thought Wind Ridge was 5.6 and
the Bulge solid and scary (runout) 5.8!!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jul 19, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
Kor Ingalls- Castleton

South Face- the Column


YES!


The Honeymoon Chimney- Priest

Ouch
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
More Kor
SicMic

climber
across the street from Marshall
Dec 5, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
w/ Petro and Kor in Camp 4
w/ Petro and Kor in Camp 4
Credit: SicMic
With Steve and Layton in Camp 4 before Kor and I climbed ElCap in 1988.


Layton enjoyed Rosy Crucifixion (his route) when we did it together.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 5, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
Pat mentions the OW Tiger's Tooth at Lumpy a few posts up.
Who's done that sucka? I recall it being a bit of a wrasslin' match.

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