solid wave train headed for humboldt, lets get this party started, 15@16, SE wind and a 9'6''
head down, paddle with intension surf with aloha for all the children. we are all o'hana
Super cool. I'd like to visit Maui. Is this (near) Windmills?
I just dug up a few old shots.
This is my first custom. 6'3x21x2 1/2 by Midget Smith (RIP).
It was a great board, modeled(dimensions and color) after a sick 70's single fin I'd been riding. It was a Hawaiian Spirit by Gabe Garduque. Anyway, I rode the Midget forever and finally decided to sell it. I paid 230 new and got 250 years later!The glass job ruled. Really cool thing- my bro in Morro Bay sent me a cell photo many years later of a girl with that board. Said she bought it in San Diego and loved it.
Midget was a great guy and a great surfer and shaper. An icon in San Clemente. Miss you buddy.
A couple small punchy (and blurry, sorry) summer days at Park on the RNF.
Super cool. I'd like to visit Maui. Is this (near) Windmills?
jefe, that's a spot over by Lahaina that we call Woody's named after the surf legend Woody Brown. It's my favorite summer west side spot.
You should visit Maui Dude although Oahu is probably a more sure bet for conditions but we do OK.
This is what they say we're getting we get for Christmas:
Hookipa: 5-6+ Hawaiian
North shores – A new large north swell will peaking Saturday…lowering through Sunday into Monday. A northwest swell will arrive Christmas morning, then lower into the middle of the week.
some of the boys surfed cortez bank yesterday and today. can't wait for the photos. looks like the
wave train is rollin. more long period stuff on the way. its where alpine style meets surfing. aloha from the humboldt nation
And so the latest round of entries begin to arrive at XXL HQ... Take a good look at Shawn Dollar's Cortes Bank Bomb, as photographed by Greg Huglin. How big would you call it?
Credit: o-man
My friend Greg Huglin shot this photo and many more from a jet ski on 12/22/12
STATEMENT FROM GREG LONG REGARDING HIS SERIOUS WIPEOUT WHILE SURFING AT THE CORTES BANK ON 12-21-12
Thank you to the entire community of friends, family and well-wishers for your concern, your outpouring of love, support and prayers, following the serious wipeout I experienced while surfing at the Cortes Bank on Friday, December 21st.
I am home, following a 24 hour stay in the UCSD Hospital in San Diego for precautionary observation as a result of the near drowning experience and blunt trauma injuries I suffered from the impact of a sequence of four large waves, and a three wave hold down. I had taken off on the second wave of a four-wave set and was forced to straighten out. After enduring an extremely violent and long hold down, I barely broke the surface and was attempting to grab a breath of air, when I received the full impact of the lip from the third and largest wave of the set. All of my breath was knocked out of me. I nearly lost consciousness at this point and was again driven deep and was subjected to a furious beating. I attempted to swim to the surface as the energy of the wave began to release me, but only made a few strokes before the next wave passed overhead, pushing me back down. As this beating started to subside, I began climbing my leash, hoping to break the surface before passing out. I made it to the tail of my board while it was still submerged in the turbulent and aerated water, at which point I blacked out from CO2 saturation and lack of oxygen.
Three rescue skis operated by D.K. Walsh, Jon Walla and Frank Quiarte were tracking me following the initial wipeout. After a fourth and smaller white water had passed, I was quickly located, floating face down along side my surfboard by D.K. Walsh. D.K. abandoned his ski, jumping in the water in order to raise my head above the surface. Jon Walla arrived on his ski, and together they pulled me onto the rescue sled. I began regaining consciousness during the ride back to the support boat we were operating from. Several other rescuers assisted getting me onboard at which point I began vomiting the small amount of water I had aspirated and a large amount of blood, which I later learned was from a combination of the blunt force trauma of impact and the rupturing of capillaries due to extreme breath holding. I was stabilized onboard the boat by the lifeguards and paramedics who were part of our safety team, and a Coast Guard helicopter was summoned to transport me back to San Diego.
Having trained for extreme breath holding, at no point did I allow myself to panic or lose confidence that I was going to survive this incident. I do, however, fully acknowledge that I did exceed my limits of endurance, and that there will always be elements of risk and danger that are beyond my control while surfing waves of any size. Because of those elements of risk, I have always insisted on working with individuals that share my focus on training and preparation. Humbly, I express my deepest gratitude to the team of rescuers and fellow surfers who’s training and precise response contributed to saving my life.
Let us know!