I have that book (paperback)! I bought it when it first came out and have read it twice already. Very interesting (superb). I started surfing in the early 60's (as a kid) and it has been a big part of my life ever since. A friend of mine in HS was on the da'Cat team (Greg Noll Surfboards). We had heard a lot of stories about Miki, the dood was already legend (original dirtbag surfbum)! But the book is definitly enlightening, to say the least. He surely had his demons! ...
Thanks too, Jefe. Awesome, finless surfing. I remember back around 1969, one of the O'neill kids or one of their people was experimenting with a strange finless surfboard that was kind of s-shaped from the side. Regular pintail in plan, but s-shaped from the side. Maybe too much going on at once to really give finless mode a try. Anyway, the board disappeared right away. This was at The Lane.
Derek has incredible speed. He has to bury rails far more and grab them too, but I'll buy it. What he gets on the wave is just insane. It is just stupendously creative and free. Thanks.
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