Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits?

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pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Oct 28, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
jalama burger!
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Oct 28, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
A little surf variety. Sure are a lot of vids out there.

[Click to View YouTube Video]


[Click to View YouTube Video]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
Following message is from Tracey Harrap regarding the recent Tsunami Warning in Maui -

Tracey Harrap
hi paul.... yeah some drama once again!
i got texted while leaving mana food with dinner supplies BUGGER there goes dinner plans...
These warning effect me as to where i live... as with many others. its very stressfull to deal with if this concerns you. First thing is text messages and phone calls of warning... they often drop out and not received due to overload on ph systems.. its still not officall on whats happening. I dont have a T.V so its hard to keep updated.. though local radio is very good.
Next thing is it REALLY going to hit you? Then the sirens start going off... thats a scary sound.... and its the first warning that is serious, and that evacuations are happening and reccomened... this follows by more sirens and airplanes flying over the effected coast areas... with flashing lights and also sounding a siren ... then the cops start driving up your street using a recorded message telling you to leave.
Neighbours group together questions of "Are you going? Are you staying? Are we on high enough ground? "How many times have we all packed and nothing happened? (this i belive is my 4th time) You think... "BUT is this diferent than other times?" Which direction is it coming from... straight on this time... yet the hight warnings are less then the Japan warnings, which left only a small amount of damage.
But like i said this is coming straight to you.. The Ocean is a mystery on what she could, or could not brew up, regardless of last time!!! Thoughts of the memorys of Japan cant help run through your mind again.
So you pack... what do you take? What dont you take. Yourself and family are at the top of the list, along with your furry friends
Its intresting in what do people hold of most value..... As the chance of watching your home disapear or damanaged is in warning.... and then wishing you had grabed something.. seeming you had time. Or do you just bail with a basic few back up clothes, passport laptop and credit cards.
For me its these basics i take and my bike... perhaps roads are damaged, and a bike could serve quite handy. Of course theres my dog. Its a strange feeling knowing everything else may or may not be there in less than an hour from now. Its an errie feeling hearing the sirens start up again.. after every so many minutes (I think was about every 15mins or so) The sirens rings increase as the countdown is getting closer. I bail its not worth it... its my choice... some neighbours stay.. thats their choice. Getting in a car driving to high ground is better than taking that 50/50 chance.
You go to a mates place and demand a cocktail and you crash on their floor or sofa... PJ party oh yeah!!!! hopefully they have T.V to stay updated. tomorrow is going to be new day... but it sure can have a new story!
So that basically what happens, yes im tired today, yes, I was allowed to go home this morning, and yes you can see the surge levels on the beachs.. not sure of any damage yet, planes and helicoptors are flying low around the coast levels...
Yes its a new day... and yes it could have been a different story.
You are welcome to share this on the N.Z.W.A page if you like.... just wanted to share my views as living here on Maui for 16 years. and you wanted news.
I also still think of all those people in the south island with all what they have gone through the last few years. EVERYONE stay safe and enjoy each day.. one never knows!
Mahalo Tracey Harrap N.Z.L -17

o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 29, 2012 - 02:42am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 29, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
We are in the middle of another an epic period here on the north shore of Maui.
We have had three separate shark events two of which I posted about up thread and another that we an actual bite.
http://mauinews.com/page/content.detail/id/566411/Beaches-closed-after-shark-attack.html?nav=10
The ocean has been in a unique mood.
Friday morning I addressed work things for a while and then I did my morning surf check and found glassy well over head waves in my back yard. When I paddled out at about 8:00 am there were a few standup guys already out but it wasn’t crowded. There was one dude that stood in the same line as me and just paddled for every wave. He was tall and very fit looking but he just kept missing waves that I could have gotten. I finally had to tell him that if he was going to paddle for waves he should make a point of getting them. He was so close to my line that if I got a wave that he had already initiated and we both got it, I felt that we would be too close for safety.
I was still getting some great waves and it was getting bigger and bigger. After about an hour I was joined by my buddy Mark.
After two hours of the session the waves were in the solid double overhead range and all the stand up guys had gone in except my buddy Mickey Eskimo.
With just the three of us out we cloud be selective and avoid the real bombs. We had our pick of the sweet head and a half nuggets.
After three hours we had scored a bunch of waves and the sets were starting to get erratic and the frequency and size were impossible to calculate.
On one set, Mark took off on the first wave and I took the second. His held up all the way to the right channel while mine closed out after I made the drop and got one turn resulting in me being in a very bad place. This set was one of the biggest so far and mark got to see me take the next eight waves square on the head. All I could do is just take a breath and dive for the bottom and hope that my board made it.
We both agreed that we should paddle in soon but things settled down some and we kept getting waves and the wind was only just starting to pick up. Most of the waves were silky smooth after the first wave of the set came through.
We paddled in after four solid hours and we were STOKED!
I walked back home and took an hour break and had lunch. I was contemplating a second session but when I got to the beach the waves had gotten a lot bigger and the sets were even more erratic. I’m talking ten foot Hawaiian that’s twenty foot plus faces and that just too big for me to paddle out into.
The next day I checked the surf at my local break and it was just too big. No one was out and except one team that was towing in at Noriega’s, my local break.
I loaded my board in the back of my truck and drove to Kanaha Beach Park where the scene was much mellower. So I thought.
Kanaha breaks about a quarter mile off shore so it can be hard to judge the size from the beach even with binoculars.
I did notice that the left channel was occasionally closing out and that told me to use caution.
When I arrived at the line up every one had a sober look about them. I went about the business of surfing. I wasn’t having much luck.
Then I saw this set out on the horizon and I started paddling out as fast and far as I could but it just wasn’t far enough. I made it over the first wave but the second was bigger I was paddling up a gigantic dead vertical wall water and as I got to the lip it broke! I went over the falls and the force drove me straight to the reef. When I made it back to the surface by board was snapped but was still held together by the glass in top.
I took two more waves on the head and the pounding subsided. With razor sharp fiber glass still holding the two pieces together I made the long paddle back in.
I drove back home and got another board and drove back to Kanaha and paddled back out. By the time I got back to the line up there were only three other surfers out and they were being very cautious.
I caught some really sweet left hander’s the were in the double over head size and realistically that was the limit of my comfort zone. The only problem was that in order to get those I had to sit a bit deeper than I wanted. After three of those a major set rolled through and pounded the living s..t out of me.
I didn’t feel like snapping another board that day so I paddled in and called it a day.
I spent the rest of the day watching the pros compete in the AWT wave sailing competition that was being held at Hookipa Beach Park right down the beach from my house.
There was soo much carnage and broken gear it was amazing. The best wave sailors in the world were getting creamed and washed on the rocks. What a show!

Quite a few of our gang gathered at my friend Tom’s beach house for a while that evening until the tsunami warning sirens went off and the police came around telling us that we had to evacuate the north shore and get to high ground.
We all went our separate ways I went home and grilled some dinner and then drove up country to the old abandoned Maui High School where most of my neighbors were hanging out. It was just like a big block party. Everyone had brought a cooler full of refreshments and the festivities went on into the a.m.
I was very tired the next morning so I had a leisurely morning and then went wave sailing with good wind and mast high waves till nearly dark.
Today the waves are still here although they seem to be a bit smaller and the wind is blowing so it’s, GAME ON!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 30, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
Charles, thanks for the Kind words Dude!
I saw that video and I think that Mat was being very modest in his description of that massive can of woop ass he was dealt at Jaws! Mat Meola is my neighbor and I hang out with his dad Gary nearly every day.

Here's a couple more of my neighbors the Walsh twins DK and Shaun at Jaws.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Oct 31, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
The Alpine

climber
Nov 1, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Sandy gave us the goods for days. One for the record books.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 1, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
Nice video Alpine!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 2, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
Speaking of Eddie Aikau I watched "Busting Down The Door" again yesterday while I was in the Dentist office.
I was living on the north shore of Oahu up on Puppakia Road above Waimea Bay while the violent part of this drama was taking place. So it has a special feeling for me.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
During the winter of 1975 in Hawaii, surfing was shaken to its core. A group of young surfers from Australia and South Africa sacrificed everything and put it all on the line to create a sport, a culture, and an industry that is today worth billions of dollars and has captured the imagination of the world. With a radical new approach and a brash colonial attitude, these surfers crashed headlong into a culture that was not ready for revolution.

Surfing was never to be the same again.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 2, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:33am PT
here is a shot of some top to bottom/barrel then on the sand slam!
political or not Davy crockett is a person i love reading about.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 3, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 4, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
I had a great session in my back yard yesterday!
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 4, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
Hard to believe it's been two years since we lost Andy Irons, RIP!!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Nov 4, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 4, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
looks like santa cruz harbor mouth on a big northwest swell
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 4, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
KaroD - you know your stuff

Patrick Trefz is quite a talented photographer and film-maker.

This is a still from his film Idiosyncrasies


another


I like this one too (man, it's huge, i can shrink it down if necessary)



See the whole show here:

http://espn.go.com/action/photos/gallery/_/id/8541787/image/4/harbor-bill-mulcoy-patrick-trefz-surfers-blood
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 4, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
Surfer's Blood


http://www.refractionmag.com/surfers-blood/
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 5, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
GOOD STUFF!
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