We just had arguably one of the best stretches of big swell at SF Ocean Beach ever ( and NorCal in general). This surfline thread sums it up pretty perfectly.
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I was fairly surprised i didnt break a leash or board... but i did get the worst neck crunching whip-lash of my life. And this pro actually broke his neck and barely survived... i immediately purchased a wakeboarding vest.
The Day this photo was shot was one of best swells of the year it just keep pump-in all day. And I missed it! Center Island point super cool bowl shaped reef break. The surf here has been off the flippen hook as of late. Today’s surf report looks pretty good so I’m on that shit!
Sloat was off scale high all day Sunday and most of Monday. I didn't have the balls to get my feet wet. Kudos to anyone that paddled out and dropped in. Your rides were spectacular from the beach. As Dirty Harry said, "a man has to know his limitations".