Pot and Slab climbing

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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2012 - 11:37am PT
Was reading the wonderful thread on "Hoodwink" and the ethics debates of the time. The use of pot on the the FA got me to thinking of pots place in climbing and the fa's of slab climbs of the 70's. And since I regard a lot of those climbs to be some of the greatest mental challenges a climber can face, I wonder about pots place in them. I remember meeting a climber from Tahoe who put up most of my favorite lines there and he said all of them were put up stoned, otherwise he would have been too scared to do them.
I try to do these climbs on site, and have never smoked so I'm usually scared shi*less on them but love the rush of doing it. Not here to judge as I'm sure some climbs were put up strait, others not. There are many here who were there in the day. Your thoughts?
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:41am PT
The Bird (on Hoodwink) might have been stoned on something other than ganja.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:45am PT
Some GREAT climbers did so normally 100% baked. and a LOT OF THEM bitd! And,,,it DID make THOSE leads much easier in the "mind" to do.....
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:45am PT
There is an article in an earlier Alpinist that discusses this.

I'd have to be more used to it than I am now, to climb while dosed though.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:47am PT
Also, it makes it easier to just visualize that the nano-scopic mineral that you are stepping up on is actually quite a large foothold, and to focus intently on the immediate area to the exclusion of the sea of blankness in which you are adrift.
Chaz

Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:47am PT
Performance enhancing substance?

The Olympic committees think so.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:51am PT
^^^^^^that only counts for spurt climbers...;-D
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:51am PT
How about beers? I have done onsights in both conditions. Helps a bit, especially to quell the snaileye...


EDIT: I recently had half of my crew, who were belaying me on an onsight, giggling like school-girls because they were shrooming. I do not recommend leading with with a giggling, shrooming belayer.
Sam E

Boulder climber
Malibu
Jan 21, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
These are a few of my favorite things...

nicely put mongrel.

+1 for the zen state of belief slab requires.



wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
Good point Kalimon....Should read "stoned" instead of pot..please carry on. Too funny mongrel.....
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
Jan 21, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
Back in the '70s I used to free-solo all kinds of slabs with the help of some ganja...

Free-soloing Patio Pinnacle &#40;5.8&#41;, Glacier Point Apron <br/>
Long-...
Free-soloing Patio Pinnacle (5.8), Glacier Point Apron
Long-haired hippie freak
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Rokjox

Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
Jan 21, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
I doesn't make you better or braver or whatever. Its just a relaxing ritual for contemplation of the brotherhood of the rope and the miracle of the sport.

The Sacraments.





Be sure to never allow a non-smoker to tell you what the hell the experience is or the effects. They don't know because they don't know. Everything else is bullsh#t.

I spent weeks on the Apron. I think it was considered girly BITD. It certainly didn't make me into a wunderkind Apron dancer.





Nobody much seemed impressed but me. Its important to keep sh#t straight. It isn't scary leading long run outs on apron, whats scary is holding 4 ounces as you walk past the kiosk to sell it to the brotherhood in Camp. If you can do the second, you can probably handle the first. You go no real commitment to consequence on the Apron compared to finding yourself busted for too much weed in Camp.

Not that that was really much of a problem most of the time. I never really had neither too much, too many or too serious. That's never happened, and it still didn't. I am hallucinating myself a glamorous past from the depths of a twelve pack of Thunderhead. This in't happening.

How the hell would I know, I grew up in a convent with Pate.

I am his Father.
locker

Social climber
CO
Jan 21, 2012 - 03:25pm PT


One of these days I'll have to try it...

;-)

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 21, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
Heh, this reminds me a of fun day on the Apron in July '77. The Scumbags (Off White, Guy Andrews, Galen Kirkwood, me, Mike Paul, and I think maybe "Flower" DeBell) were doing a mass assault on Hoppy's Favorite (or was it The Mouth? The one with a full-length 5.9 pitch with one bolt, where your EB's made that marvelous squeaking sound on the polish) and there were I guess 5 or 6 of us climbing in a giant group. We smoked up at every belay, and I do mean EVERY belay. We we loud, young, exuberant, had Apron climbing ruthlessly dialed and were having the time of our lives. A perfect day, back when a single 1/4 inch bolt and a couple of #2 stoppers seemed like a perfectly bomber belay.

A party of two women (a rare sight back then) were on an adjacent route and wordlessly observed our travelling circus for as long as they could stand it, then one of them snapped and yelled over to us "Jesus! They should make you people get licenses before they climb!" Or words to that effect. They were joking of course, and we all howled with laughter. What a great memory.

Good times! I bet Off White has a photo or two of that marvelous debacle in his archives somwhere...
hossjulia

Social climber
Eastside (of the Tetons)
Jan 21, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
back in the 70's the pot was a lot weaker....'jus sayin. I never could climb fer sh#t on the stuff, bitd or not.
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
Jan 21, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
Weed is weed........


Good strong buddy of mine used to spin a fatty at the base of many famous routes in RMNP and Edlo up The Naked Edge rating and Vertigo...........


He's still alive, doesn't burn up anymore and still solo's


So go figure........





Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
Jan 22, 2012 - 05:50am PT
BITD I used free-solo laps on the Great White Book. I had an old tape deck in a fanny pack with some Jimi Hendrix blasting, toked a couple of doobies at the base, and then carried an open can of beer all the way up the climb. It was always interesting passing other parties. (:
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Jan 22, 2012 - 06:05am PT
My first visit to Yosemite in 1978 was a complete revelation to a nave young Brit. I can remember clearly (which is more than most of my friends) standing at the bottom of the Apron watching two Americans ready themselves for, I think, Ankles Away (have I got that right?). The leader was sucking vast quantities of something from a small clay pipe and holding it in his lungs... When his eyes were glazed enough, he set off up the pitch like a rocket, hardly noticing any of the moves... but as he neared the belay slowed dramatically until he was stationary, at which point he turned and said to his partner 'guess I shoulda smoked another bowl...' The final couple of moves involved more time than the rest of the pitch, and much shaking.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Jan 22, 2012 - 06:05am PT
good show rox. i liked that, essay.
..' iam your father.."


all good stories, fellas.

i never smoke when climbing.
i don't rarely smoke, period.

all my stoner friends say that im already there.

god sent me here stoned.
i must have paid her well before i departed her company.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
Jan 22, 2012 - 06:16am PT
Ankles Away

Anchors Away, named as such because climbers fell to their deaths on that route when the belay bolts failed. I think I did that route, isn't there a 5.11a move right before the first belay?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1423897&msg=1424029#msg1424029
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