Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th

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Messages 501 - 520 of total 2122 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:12am PT
Says a lot that I guy like Steve didn't even make it to the compressor bolts in 4 trips.
Maestro lost a friend trying to climb one route and probably went a little crazy.
This was a time before cams, and all kinds of ridiculous modern conviences.
He was the a top climber of his era who gave climbing everything.
This has made me see that he deserves a lot more respect.


That pic of Cerro Torre covered in Ice is terrifying.
We need unattainable summits that are not brought down to escalater and gondola status.
Not that the Compressor Route is that at all......But that is one proud looking Mountain if you know what I mean!!!!
Can't wait to go there..
fsck

climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:16am PT
historic garbage
left by an unchecked ego
good riddance to it

K&K Cleaners
janitors of the wild
open on sundays

Randisi

Boulder climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:22am PT
I repeat, the route has now been free-climbed at 8a.

The conversation has changed.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:32am PT
So David Lama stepped up to the plate and now their is a better route and the bolts that were removed proved unnecessary.
Can't we all just get along?
fňradaiball

Social climber
italy
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:36am PT
se viene schiodato il Nose, diventa 8b in libera



la conversazione non č cambiata
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:47am PT
Oh come on just go pick the Nose already.

BlackSpider

Ice climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:55am PT
All this straw-manning about The Nose and its bolts is getting kind of tiresome. I wonder if any of the keyboard warriors threatening to chop it will even turn up in the valley let alone go up there and do the deed.
FeelioBabar

Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:56am PT
awesome ascent.

...but chopping the bolts is just pissing on the route again.......(sigh).

TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Jan 23, 2012 - 08:07am PT
It must be really embarassing for David Lama to have to wear that stupid Red Bull cap. Poor guy.
nature

climber
Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Jan 23, 2012 - 08:10am PT
careful there BlackSpider, though fallacies of logic have been committed at an epic rate few actually understand "straw-man". (they probably think of Dorothy and Toto)
coz

Big Wall climber
Can't Say.
Jan 23, 2012 - 08:19am PT
Philo,

Should I go chop The Grand Wall route in Squamish, it has tons of ladders, and was very controversial and I did a fairesh means ascent, all free to boot?

Should I feel better and holier than all those who came before me, and those who cannot free the route and proclaim once and for all, I'm God? Remove the ladders and let the world know they are not worthy?

What say you great sage?




enzolino

climber
Galgenen, Switzerland
Jan 23, 2012 - 08:26am PT
Philo,

Should I go chop The Grand Wall route in Squamish, it has tons of ladders, and was very controversial and I did a fairesh means ascent, all free to boot?

Should I feel better and holier than all those who came before me, and those who cannot free the route and proclaim once and for all, I'm God? Remove the ladders and let the world know they are not worthy?

What say you great sage?
Good suggestion.

The Nose has been mentioned because is a historical route, with bolt ladders, which has been controversial when it was climbed.

But since these two guys arbitrarily decided to chop the Compressor's bolts, I don't see why this principle cannot be applied elsewhere.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 08:30am PT
Coz, a bit non sequitur I should think but if that's what would float your boat then by all means go for it.

I think you are unfairly condemning K&K with personality traits and motivations that they probably don't have.

So Enzolino by the extension of your logic of precedence can i show up in the Dolomites and haul a gas compressor to bolt a directisima ladder on any wall I want and leave the machinery hanging if I want?

fňradaiball

Social climber
italy
Jan 23, 2012 - 08:40am PT
si, ma devi tornare indietro nel tempo, anni '60-'70 delle direttissime

hai la macchina del tempo ? vengo anch'io

(comunque ora basta un trapano)
enzolino

climber
Galgenen, Switzerland
Jan 23, 2012 - 08:46am PT
So Enzolino by the extension of your logic of precedence can i show up in the Dolomites and haul a gas compressor to bolt a directisima ladder on any wall I want and leave the machinery hanging if I want?
Not only ... you can go to Dolomite, re-write the history of those places, even change the names of the routes, of the summits, question all the ascents without proof and attribute your self the credit of previous routes if who opened them did not really reach the very summit ... and to support your action you can artfully design an ethical propaganda against those climbers who opened the Direttissimas more than 40 years ago ...
Someone else has already done it ... in Patagonia ...
http://alpinesketches.wordpress.com/2012/01/23/pataclimb-when-toponymy-hides-a-crusade/
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 08:50am PT
Curiously many people seem extremely concerned with the Argentinean opinion but what about the Chilean perspective? The area spans both countries.


http://www.pauldeegan.com/destinations/oth_patagonia.pdf
Where Is It And Who Owns It?
Patagonia is not a political country but a geographic anomaly. Spanning two
countries - Argentina and Chile - Patagonia occupies of up to one million square
kilometres, yet just 5% of both nations’ populations live there. In Argentina,
Patagonia is generally understood to begin south of the Rio Colorado, but in Chile
this definition encompasses areas like their Lake District. Chileans on the other
hand recognise Patagonia as being the land south of Puerto Montt (a much
smaller area). Even then some Chileans believe that Patagonia exists only in
Argentina. As one local Chilean informed me in no uncertain terms, “This is not
Patagonia - this in Magellanes!” (Magellan was the Spanish explorer who
explored much of this region. Ironically, it is he who is credited with coming up
with the name Patagonia!) The World Service’s definition of what has become
recognised as Patagonia in popular circles is the land south of Puerto Montt. Look
in an atlas and you’ll see that Argentine Patagonia is for the most part as flat as a
pancake, whilst the Chilean side is littered with mountains that stretch like a spine
all the way to Cape Horn.
MH2

climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 09:08am PT
MH2, who could possibly care about what some climber from a hundred years ago has to say?


Ha ha. I care what every climber has to say but don't have time to listen to all of them.


There is more like a probable resemblance between you and the guy John Gill thanked for the translation, Randisi.
tarek

climber
berkeley
Jan 23, 2012 - 09:18am PT
damn, good thing bolts can't be placed, removed and replaced by strokes on a key board or lip flapping...

thanks to the Italians for a valiant effort here...to get some Americans to speak a second language.
giggio

climber
Milano, Italy
Jan 23, 2012 - 09:32am PT
So Enzolino by the extension of your logic of precedence can i show up in the Dolomites and haul a gas compressor to bolt a directisima ladder on any wall I want and leave the machinery hanging if I want?

philo, your proposal is quite old-fashioned: lots of people in the '50/'60, except for the use of a compressor, already did it in the Dolomites.
After some time, in '70s and '80s, many climbers of the new generation did a lot of efforts to free climb that lines... and succeeded. To have fun and show to everybody that a different style was possible... but without the necessity to raise up crusades and consider themselves as the priests of puriry.
Gene

climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 09:56am PT
Alpinist has received confirmation that Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk did indeed chop over a hundred bolts off of the Compressor Route. One hundred and two bolts from the route were confiscated by local police. Police detained the two climbers after "a group of forty people [who] went to lynch the Canadian climber Jason Kruk in the parlor of Miguel Burgos..." Kennedy and Kruk are currently in the mountains with friends. They will prepare a press report in the coming days.

In the meantime, Planetmountain.com has reported that David Lama, a climber familiar with Cerro Torre controversies, has successfully free climbed the Compressor Route. Details about Lama's ascent remain scarce though it is known that a film team climbed Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route prior to Lama's free climb.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-update-compressor
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