Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th


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Bubba Ho-Tep

Evergreen, CO
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
Now that it is a done deal let us take an international poll.
Surely more than 40 people have an opinion.
You all might be surprised at how many applaud the removal of Maestri's folly.

FWIW, I don't applaud the removal any more than I applauded the installation. IMO, both were a travesty.

Now you have 41.

Trad climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:00pm PT

seems David Lama freed the compressor yesterday...see planetmountain.com
with or without bolts...

by real Fair means...FREE CLIMBING the route

Phil what do you think?

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
The Compressor Route freed!

Cerro Torre free.

AWESOME!! Just awesome.


Social climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
sono democratico, chi vuole traduce con google (come faccio io qua del resto), chi non vuole non legge

" I'll type as I please, you got google ( like fat people, you need to rest ), no vole has no legs "

Thank you for watching this brief commercial interlude.
Back to your regularly scheduled thread.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
Is there any more definite source as to what Lama did and didn't do? Or is all embargoed, while it's filtered through lawyers, sponsors, and marketed to make the most dollars?

Jason and Hayden are said to have removed 102 bolts from the Maestri route, out of 400 or more. (Largely on the headwall?) Many that were clearly unnecessary, with 1970 let alone modern gear. However, some that were necessary, particularly on the headwall, where Maestri seems to have chosen a line that is fairly blank. So if they removed 102 bolts, mostly on the headwall, how did Lama free the compressor route? Did he replace the bolts, or?

The bolts being confiscated by the police suggests that there may be a legal element to what happened. Is there? What does Argentinian law say about this sort of thing? We can discuss it all we like - not that seems likely to lead to any definite conclusion - but if there are applicable laws, it would be useful to know.

If Hayden and Jason removed 102 bolts, it either took a lot of time and effort, or they came out easily. Given that all we've heard so far is that theirs was a fast ascent, it suggests the latter. Is it possible that the Maestri bolts were coming to the end of their safe lifetime, in a rather severe environment? They sure weren't placed or maintained by the ASCA!

Regardless of the fate of the Maestri bolt ladders, would it be reasonable for there to be a single well-chosen rappel route down that side of the mountain, with fixed anchors - bolts? So as to limit proliferation of anchors and junk?

Looking on the bright side, this debate has attracted many new posters, often from outside North America, and given us something climbing-related to endlessly discuss at an otherwise quiet time of year for TRs and such.
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
Did someone chop the compressor route or something????

Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
naw... I think all the hubbub is because someone replaced the chopped bolt on Double Cross.

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
sono democratico, chi vuole traduce con google (come faccio io qua del resto), chi non vuole non legge

Foradaiball-I tried the google translator. See, it just doesn't work. I wish I spoke Italian but 3 languages is probably my max. I agree that gives me limitations.

It's a shame you putting all your emotional thoughts to this forum in a language very few will ever read and comprehend. When you run the computer translator, it just comes out all gooblygock!

Can you find a friend nearby who can translate your thoughts and insults into English? Not because I or anybody else thinks English is very cool but so we can UNDERSTAND what you have to say.

The Larry

Moab, UT
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:42pm PT

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
You got me there.
Cheers to you and take care.

Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record...

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
Question please:

What's the original bolt count for the compressor route? Upthread it was mentioned that the bolt count when referenced has (inexplicably) grown from like 150 to 400+?

Can someone translate the K&K interview conducted in Patagonia?

More details on the near lynching, please. Adds to the adventure and heat in El Chalten.

Why the vole has no legs?

Sport climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Reports also suggest that when Kennedy and Kruk got back to camp they were confronted by a group of local climbers demanding an explanation for their actions. During this time the police arrived and confiscated the chopped bolts and took them to the police station to take a statement.

i wonder if kruk pooped his pants again?
Steve Barratt

Gym climber
Glasgow, UK
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
2 lessons from this:

1) In the mountains - move fast and efficiently, carry less, avoid exposure to objective hazards and you may also have enough time left to remove existing climbs on the descent!

2)The vole has no legs


Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
Long live the vole!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Cliff Phillips said that the bolts came out easily (and this was 4 decades ago) and that they would hammer them back in with a bit of cardboard or a match.

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
It's possible that people's biases have gotten the best of them and are thus misinterpreting the bolt removal.
Are K&K intent on a bolt replacement project on the compressor route which is planned to be conducted in discreet stages?

The unexpected emergence of a legless vole is suggestive of this possibility.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
This is my last word on the topic...voles do have legs.

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Jan 23, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
Contrary to widespread misinterpretations, the Compressor Route has in no way, shape, or form been erased. Quite simply, Kruk and Kennedy have dramatically improved and upgraded Maestri's route to accept modern removable bolt protection, capable of withstanding both traditional aid passage as well as the higher forces of contemporary free climbing leader falls.

ClimbTech removable bolt anchors:

Key Features: One of our most popular RB anchors, this portable concrete anchorage connector can be used in a variety of fall protection applications.


As is often spoken with reverent tone in El Chalten, "As no vole has no legs creepeth, a boltless route abides".

Jan 23, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
This statement has recently been updated with the so-called Statement of Ethics on the mountain the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) announced on 11 December on the occasion of International Mountain Day. In Article 1 (individual responsibility) reflects: "... Place anchors fixed on new or old ways can not be automatically assumed to be acceptable. "Article 4 (foreign countries): "... We must respect local ethics and style of climbing and fixed anchors drill or put in places where there is a traditional ethics against him or where there is no established ethical. "Article 8 (style): "... We should always try to leave no trace on the wall and the mountain.

I live in Chalten, I feel ashamed for letting this guys, David Lama in 2010 and the rest to do what they want in an area WE live and WE love and look after as good as we can...
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