Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th


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Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
naw... I think all the hubbub is because someone replaced the chopped bolt on Double Cross.

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
sono democratico, chi vuole traduce con google (come faccio io qua del resto), chi non vuole non legge

Foradaiball-I tried the google translator. See, it just doesn't work. I wish I spoke Italian but 3 languages is probably my max. I agree that gives me limitations.

It's a shame you putting all your emotional thoughts to this forum in a language very few will ever read and comprehend. When you run the computer translator, it just comes out all gooblygock!

Can you find a friend nearby who can translate your thoughts and insults into English? Not because I or anybody else thinks English is very cool but so we can UNDERSTAND what you have to say.

The Larry

Moab, UT
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:42pm PT

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
You got me there.
Cheers to you and take care.

Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
I hope you know that this will go down on your permanent record...

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
Question please:

What's the original bolt count for the compressor route? Upthread it was mentioned that the bolt count when referenced has (inexplicably) grown from like 150 to 400+?

Can someone translate the K&K interview conducted in Patagonia?

More details on the near lynching, please. Adds to the adventure and heat in El Chalten.

Why the vole has no legs?

Sport climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Reports also suggest that when Kennedy and Kruk got back to camp they were confronted by a group of local climbers demanding an explanation for their actions. During this time the police arrived and confiscated the chopped bolts and took them to the police station to take a statement.

i wonder if kruk pooped his pants again?
Steve Barratt

Gym climber
Glasgow, UK
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
2 lessons from this:

1) In the mountains - move fast and efficiently, carry less, avoid exposure to objective hazards and you may also have enough time left to remove existing climbs on the descent!

2)The vole has no legs


Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
Long live the vole!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Cliff Phillips said that the bolts came out easily (and this was 4 decades ago) and that they would hammer them back in with a bit of cardboard or a match.

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
It's possible that people's biases have gotten the best of them and are thus misinterpreting the bolt removal.
Are K&K intent on a bolt replacement project on the compressor route which is planned to be conducted in discreet stages?

The unexpected emergence of a legless vole is suggestive of this possibility.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
This is my last word on the topic...voles do have legs.

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Jan 23, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
Contrary to widespread misinterpretations, the Compressor Route has in no way, shape, or form been erased. Quite simply, Kruk and Kennedy have dramatically improved and upgraded Maestri's route to accept modern removable bolt protection, capable of withstanding both traditional aid passage as well as the higher forces of contemporary free climbing leader falls.

ClimbTech removable bolt anchors:

Key Features: One of our most popular RB anchors, this portable concrete anchorage connector can be used in a variety of fall protection applications.


As is often spoken with reverent tone in El Chalten, "As no vole has no legs creepeth, a boltless route abides".

Jan 23, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
This statement has recently been updated with the so-called Statement of Ethics on the mountain the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) announced on 11 December on the occasion of International Mountain Day. In Article 1 (individual responsibility) reflects: "... Place anchors fixed on new or old ways can not be automatically assumed to be acceptable. "Article 4 (foreign countries): "... We must respect local ethics and style of climbing and fixed anchors drill or put in places where there is a traditional ethics against him or where there is no established ethical. "Article 8 (style): "... We should always try to leave no trace on the wall and the mountain.

I live in Chalten, I feel ashamed for letting this guys, David Lama in 2010 and the rest to do what they want in an area WE live and WE love and look after as good as we can...

Jan 23, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
From the mouth of the Lama:

I can't believe it… For more than three years I was driven by the idea of freeclimbing the Compressor route on Cerro Torre and now this dream has become true!

My partner Peter Ortner and I started on January 19th from El Chalten and hiked in to Nipo Nino, our first camp. The next morning we climbed up to the Col de la Paciencia, rested there for a few hours and then started our attempt at around 1pm.
We climbed to the start of the Bolt Traverse, but instead of turning right, we went straight up on the technically difficult arete, a few meters left of the Salvaterra crack. I took a couple of falls, until I figured out the right sequence and then was able to send the pitch on my second try from the belay. A few pitches higher we reached the Iced Towers, where we picked a small ledge into an icefield to bivi.
Early the next morning we climbed to the start of the headwall. The fact that Hayden and Jason had chopped Maestri’s bolts a couple of days ago made my endeavour even more challenging, especially mentally as the protection was poor and I had to do long run outs. Climbing on hollow and loose flakes we followed the original Compressor route for three pitches. About 20 meters below the compressor we traversed to the right and then reached a system of cracks and corners that lead us to the summit. Climbing the route in alpine style took us 24 hours from the Col.

To me this first free ascent of the south east ridge of Cerro Torre is the end to the probably greatest adventure I experienced in my life so far. I’m especially proud having it done without adding any bolts. I learned a lot during the past years and climbing in this amazing mountain range has simply been great. Realizing dreams – it couldn’t be any better!

WTF? Via Rock and Ice on Facebook.

State of Mine
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
you got to hand it to lama, after all the crap he recieved on the intardnet the last time he was there he persevered and showed us how its done. bravo.

Sport climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
@ rockymaster:

I live in Chalten, I feel ashamed for letting this guys, David Lama in 2010 and the rest to do what they want in an area WE live and WE love and look after as good as we can...

thanks for posting, and it'd be nice to hear more opinions from the locals who actually reside there.

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
So.... was the establishing ethic from 50 years ago to drag a machine up the face and have a bolting party??

Props to Lama. What a week!
Sam R

Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
WTF? Did someone chop off a vole's legs??
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 23, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
Holy frig, what a great thread. Thanks for the update, Cedar!

I am amazed that anyone could equate bolts on the Nose and Salathe Wall on El Capitan - which were drilled by hand to cross blank featureless sections of rock not otherwise climbable, to those drilled by Maestri on Cerro Torre - drilled with a power tool apparently indiscriminately and often next to usable cracks. To do so undermines both your credibility and your argument.

Congrats to Lama .... um, I think. [See YoungGun's post below] What about all the bolts he drilled last year? Did he use those? Have they been removed yet?

I'm still torn about my feelings over this. It is rare that I feel so ethically challenged, as I really hate bolts. I think it was bad form for these two non-locals to have taken this into their own hands. I wouldn't be heartbroken if "legit" bolts of Maestri's were replaced [for example, those required to cross blank rock] but not "stupid" bolts [for example, those next to cracks]. I am inclined to agree with Cedar's prophecy that the route will be re-established.

Then again, I'm not exactly upset that such an amazing peak as Cerro Torre no longer has an "easy way up", as if a route that shut Steve Schneider down four times could ever be considered "easy".
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