Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 19, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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Once we have Jason's and Hayden's own report on their climb and what they did, we'll have more to discuss. They're both widely experienced and well rooted climbers, and I'd like to hear what they have to say.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 19, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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i think gmmcdoug makes some great points that i am too pissed to try and make. yeah, a whole slew of people are denied this route, at least until it gets put back up again. that's right, big fuking bolt war coming up.
i hear the superstars were last seen having a conversation with
the police in el chalten. i won't speculate about what. ss
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 19, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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They are in exactly the same category. They were saying I did it, and only I can do it. Same statement as Maestri was making.
Except that Maestri didn't climb it.
Probably.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 19, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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The imposition was Maestri's not Kruk & Kennedy. Good on them for cleaning up an historic disgrace.
Now you are free to go impose your will on it.
Remember history is watching.
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gmmcdoug
Mountain climber
Calgary AB
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Jan 19, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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True, then I guess Bridwell didn't either... or Greg or anyone else who climbed it.
Point is, it has been climbed once, the Compressor was a historical route. Pure and simply, I feel I am smart enough to make up my own mind about the merits of the route. But I don't appreciate the hypocrisy of chopping the route.
I do not support the route or the establishment but this goes to the point of someone dictating to me what I climb.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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The hypocrisy was in the placing of the bolts not in the removal,
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coz
Big Wall climber
Can't Say.
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
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Haha, Rolo, I'm laughing now, buddy... welcome to the sh#t storm.
I've never seen Steve that pissed,
Colorado boys ass kissing the editor son?
Come on Philo, chopping ground up routes anit cool, even if you are media darlings.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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I do not support the route or the establishment but this goes to the point of someone dictating to me what I climb.
Perhaps you don't have to worry about that anymore...
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Damn, and I just bought a double set of quickdraws for that route.
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michaelj
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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I don't have a dog in this fight, but wouldn't it have been better style to chop ground-up?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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This is a great story.
I'm interested Steve, to hear what your thoughts are, beside being angry.
I would have left them. Are the big dogs afraid that people would keep climbing them? And how would that hurt them?
They wouldn't have diminished my new route in any way.
Sounds a bit like the gym. "Dude you used a green hold! I thought you were trying to send the yellow route!"
Or the old bouldering circuit. "Hey man, that crimp is off route."
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JohnnyG
climber
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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I've always wanted to climb that route...but I guess I don't easily have the option anymore. Anyone else out there like me? You know, there is so much history with that route. I thought it would be cool to check it out.
So, how many folks climbed it in a normal season?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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survival, i've got a Huge history with that route. four separate expeditions to chalten over a dozen years, never with much luck, but with a lot of expense. i got highest with dave turner on my third expedition. we got to pitch 8. way below the maestri bolt ladders.
i've argued for this route in the mags before, and always against rolo. rolo is a guy i still consider a friend and who i respect the hell out of not for just his exploits, but his attitudes in the mountains. but, we are, unfortunately, at opposite ends of this spectrum.
it's a historic route, even if it was put up in bad style, lots of things were, who are we to judge 40 years later.
there are literally stacks of expeditions lined up to do this route each season. some probably down there right now. and some not very happy with the american cowboys who chopped the route they just came to do. i hope everybody down there can be civil about this.
to use the standards of today on the routes of yesterday just doesn't make much sense to me.
rolo, i hope you are happy. i know this is what you really wanted. ss
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coz
Big Wall climber
Can't Say.
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Johnny G,
You will now have to bow down, and say three,"I'm not worthies" to the great Rolo and Hayden, then perhaps do a little foot kissing, and they will enlighten you as to why, you must never have such impure thoughts again.
Funnies thing in years, not so funny to the many people who fly across the world and dream of doing the climb, my advice is Hayden and the boys do some cage fighting training, sure to be some unhappy campers out there.
Unbelievable.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Umm, there were two involved - Jason Kruk (Canada) and Hayden Kennedy (USA). (OK, Hayden's father was born a Canadian, or Canada/US citizen, IIRC, but whatever.)
We can speculate about the climb, what they did, and the consequences, but facts are helpful.
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Did they chop the compressor itself? Where is it now? If it gets re-bolted, will they haul the original back up there?
Interesting story indeed!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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Coz man big props for all you have done.
But... While most of us from BITD are doing geritol shooters and looking for the metamucil, great alpinism is a youth's pursuit. I for one am heartened that the bar has been set so high by these young leopards. And I really hope no one is fool enough to go re-bolt it.
Steve can drone a dirge and dance in his dandies for all the good it will do.
His big concern is I believe commercial. All those "climbers" coming from around the world and lined up to get hauled up one route. How much was the guide fee for the Compressor Route? Just a guess but there is probably one or two other climbs around.
Well the summit of Cerro Torre is still there and all you have to be is good enough to earn it.
I for one have always felt that some summits should be earned and not bought. I know a few too many credit card climbers who's greatest ability to accomplish the climbs they went on was their ability to pay the price of admission. That is not alpinism it is commercial climbing.
I know that I am just old and in the way, never did anything worth a damn and should probably keep it to my self but I applaud both their climb up and their clean down.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 19, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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Did they chop the compressor itself? Where is it now?
Chessler is gonna put it up on eBay just as soon as he gets a few signatures--Rolo, Bridwell, Hugo Chavez.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 19, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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What was reported by Colin Haley on January 17th, 2012, and is apparently on his FaceBook page:
"BIG NEWS: Although Jorge and I unfortunately fluffed this weather window, today we got to watch history being made through a Canon G12 zoom lens at Norwegos: Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk made the first fair-means ascent of the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre. Although I'm not 100% sure about the details, I think they took about 13 hours to the summit from a bivy at the shoulder, which is amazingly fast considering the terrain. The speed with which they navigated virgin ground on the upper headwall is certainly testament to Hayden's great skills on rock. Bravo! They might be in the mountains several more days (more good weather coming), but I'm sure we'll hear the details soon!" http://e9climbing.blogspot.com/2012/01/cerro-torre-sans-bolts.html (underlining added)
Perhaps Rolo has additional sources.
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