Woodson 2012

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bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 7, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
No Gary, I think were talking about the same thing. Sizable edges finishing with a sizable reach move up to the horizontal seam, a sketchy move or two left to get to where the seam goes vertical, then straight up -- which is where it felt insecure and scary to me.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Yeah, a thin high-step up to reach the horizontal seam, which turns out to to be slopey and slippery fingers, then two desperate pieces of footwork left, to a nice "ledge," then able to reach that jug at the bottom of the vertical seam. Even though the climbing is probably only 5.8-5.9 above, it's all business from there! Gotta love it, "You do NOT want to fall off the top of that...!"

Credit: Truthdweller
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 7, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Ah, different lines we're talking. The way I was going up was more like just left of center between those two brown streaks, more directly underneath the section where the seam turns vertical.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 7, 2012 - 05:31pm PT


Gary, you should know not to believe everything you read on the internet, that photo is a sandbag. Its actually at Deerhorn Valley, with BeeHay in the lower right and Galen's nose at the bottom. I think its over on the Dinosaur Rock side of things.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
I never said I "believed" it, I was just posting Woodson related information from a website that is reputed to be Woodson material. The caption was what I was really interested in, Woodson or not. I, as well, read that that photo was taken elsewhere on another ST thread. Other than that, I know nothing. What have you been up to these days?
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
Well, Bob, where you're talking is in the general area that the rumored line was heard to have been done. Maybe it was YOU that the rumor was to have stemmed from! We/I never could piece that one together. Would be cool to see more pictures of people on that face though.
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Feb 7, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
The boulder problem in question (just to the right of the paint streak, I've always heard it referred to as Woodward Direct) definitely "goes". A few of my friends have done it recently. You can see my chalk from many failed attempts from earlier in the day. I'd be curious to hear how it was done B.I.T.D. Current beta involves a giant move to a good sloper; a big armspan definitely helps. After that, obviously keep it together at the top. Good stuff.
snake pliskin

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
Wait, how many different problems are we talking here? I've done the west face (in yellow) with the high step that mark is on (I've pitched off it too, which wasn't fun), I've played on the line in the green on that northwest corner by the brown streak, and I've played on the line in the green by the brown streak on the left as a dyno from good edges and a high right foot. Are you talking about a problem between the two Bob?
Credit: snake pliskin
snake pliskin

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
Also, is there a name for that west face with the high step? Woodward Step or something? I thought I had heard that.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 7, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
The way I'd get up it was about about halfway between the pink and green lines, more towards the pink. The highstep problem has never had a name but it was already established by early in '74, at least. I've always referred to it as the west face of the painted boulder.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 8, 2012 - 08:11am PT
So, this "Woodward" person sounds rather fictional to me. Sort of an Oliver Moon kind of thing. Has anyone ever actually seen this guy boulder at Woodson, or is he just some kind of a myth that has been propagated over the years? Sounds pretty suspect to me.

I mean, if such a person ever existed he must not have been a local. So how could he have done any FA's at Woodson? The locals would never have let such a thing occur.

Would they?



Ooops.

10a on the Outside (a problem so easy it was FA'd in tennis shoes first try, and the locals were still robbed.) Deport Johnny. Welcome to Rubidoux. Lemon Chiffon. Woodward (that name again?) Arete. To name a few. The list goes on and on.

Forgot about those.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 08:43am PT
SP...I think you flipped flopped your words here, but I think I still understand, lol:

"I've played on the line in the green on that northwest corner by the brown streak, and I've played on the line in the green by the brown streak on the left as a dyno from good edges and a high right foot.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 09:24am PT
"Big Head" on Woodward Arete...

Credit: johannsolo
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 8, 2012 - 09:34am PT
Oh, ok. Him.

That name I recognize.
snake pliskin

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Yeah, the pink line was the one with the dyno. I haven't been on it in awhile, and would be interested to find an actual sequence. through there. Prollyt heads up the way BVB's talking about.
snake pliskin

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
Anyone have any info on this problem? The face to the right of the Seminar boulder. I've done it a handful of times and it's pretty classic. Slightly overhanging on decent edges and heads up left on a small rail to a mantle onto the slab. Crux is the first few moves. Goes at about 5.10a/b?
Credit: snake pliskin
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 8, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
That's the descent route for Eric's Crack!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
Harder than that, more like 10d.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
Some ancient hard man...

Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 8, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
Who's the guy in the bushes "ancient" one?
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