Woodson 2012

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Messages 621 - 640 of total 690 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
Bob, it still makes me smile to hear someone talk about a particular move on a climb, maybe even on the other side of the world, and to be able to intimately relate to it because you've done that "move" as well! I'm referring to the Nutcracker and the "#6" stopper below the mantle. I can clearly recall, back in September 1983, standing below the mantle head wall and placing a #7 stopper in that seam, then moving up to the slopping shelf and thinking, "This is going to be bad if I fall off this sucker," having to move up and back down about three times before committing and getting that thing. Good stuff.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
You can't forget about the 5.7 mantle on the Practice Boulder on the right...probably one of the first mantles on Woodson that I did.

Speaking of Santee Mantles, this sequence of Greg Epperson on Eppi's Lunge, taken by deepnet, still leaves me awestruck...

Credit: deepnet

Credit: Rick Allenby
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
...and the wild Animal Mantle above the Dead Animal Traverse ("the hang" Doug, ;-):

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 9, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
bvb, how is it that you have pictures of everything you've ever done?

Geeze Henny, with all the smoke I blow around here who would believe a word I said if I couldn't yard out a photo once in a while?!

Personally, I attribute the vast archive documenting my extraordinary career -- one widely regarded, in fact, as legendary (although you probably already knew that) -- to my naked charisma, my mindbending level of achievement, my glassine photogenic aura, and my pure animal magnetism. Like Paris Hilton, the camera loves me, and I oblige.

However, on mature reflection, it probably has to do with the sheer volume of inveterate shutterbugs to emerge from the greater Scumbag family and 'Dago in general. Off White is a primary culprit, with Epi and Brian Bailey and a host of other nascent paparazzi circling my outer perimeter. The glare of stardom was simultanously harsh, warm, and demanding. It's a wonder I've emerged with my demure humility and down-to-earth, man-of-the-people persona intact. Unpretentious, shy, reserved: these are the characteristics I most cherish in myself.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 10, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
Woodson Christmas Tree
Woodson Christmas Tree
Credit: darkmagus

Fluffy clouds near the summit.
Fluffy clouds near the summit.
Credit: darkmagus
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Dec 10, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
BVB.....you just haven't found the right enema....:)
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:47am PT
It could have been me Darkmagus. I won't make it out there this week, but will probably be there on Saturday. Maybe Sunday as well.
Horvath

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
So Ron, has anyone else done Blind Faith? What other mantels were you hiking at the time- the curt? Rick did you ever do it?

After showing it to Doug, we both agree, it's one of the harder, if not hardest pure mantels on the hill... at least this it looks that way...and its terrifying in a ridiculous way.

Blind Faith
Blind Faith
Credit: Horvath
(see the crashpad below for reference to the length of the fall)


had a sweet day saturday with Doug and Phil, Ya Magus you that was probably us up there at Masters.
that B1 dyno is hard! Also got around and did greg's problems.
Credit: Horvath
anyone know what the original lines were on this? I bailed right to the blunt arete on the first go, but then we TR'ed going straight up as well which was sweet.

Finished off the day down at left and right hand rule, cleaned off a LOT of brush and between our crew managed to send both lines.

Credit: Horvath
Here's Phil on the rad 5.7 arete you can use to approach the anchors for right hand rule

Also, anyone know what animal makes this?

ON the trail between TV and Slant
ON the trail between TV and Slant
Credit: Horvath
As Doug and I were hiking out last time, we saw two eyes probably a hundred yards away blinking back at our headlamps. Hoping it wasn't a cougar we hightailed to the road, but we've been seeing this scat ALL over the hill lately and was guessing it may be the same animal.



Lastly,
Anyone know what this is? I think I posted this already but no one responded. Doug snapped this rad shot last season.
Credit: Doug Tomczik
Credit: Doug Tomczik
Credit: Horvath

darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
That totally was you guys! I inferred that it had to be some well-skilled individuals if you were doing just about any climb in that area. I was SO close to stopping by and saying hi but was trying to stay psyched for the hike, to make it to the top and then start climbing. Should have done it!! I would have asked for a spot on Morrocan Menace ;)

Let's try to coordinate a session soon! I'll definitely be there Sunday all day (starting early).

Edit: I also found out where "Blind Faith" is, it definitely looked HARD, but then I touched the rock, it's SUPER smooth, I just shook my head and said a few curse words...
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
Credit: Russ Walling
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
wtf homeboy is WAY off-sequence in that photo you guys trippin' on windowpane or WHUT not sure we got enough chalk on that motherf*#ker yo.
deepnet

Boulder climber
San Diego
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Blind Faith...Rick did you ever do it?

Greg, I'm not sure. Ron would prolly know.
Doesn't look familiar although my memory is not that great these days.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 12, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
One good tranny posedown deserves another:

Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
Off sequence for sure Bob, but burly nonetheless! I remember spending a sesh with the Hatchet brothers who were seeing how many different sequences they could come with, RH first, LH first, thumbs up, thumbs down, etc. Those kids were animals.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
Anyone got a photo of the Train with the thin tree that use to grow up close to the start? I used that thing too many times before I was "hard" enough to pull through on that thing.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:28am PT
Rick used to crank the curtis mantle all the time but i couldnt touch that thing. I havent heard of any repeats of blind faith, i may have been on drugs when i did it.

Ah the hang, yes well that is expected. No impetus from the ground allowed. When we couldnt hang we would do "bathroom scale" starts. Meaning there should be no movement of the needle if you started the mantle while you were standing on a scale. Purity, perfection...these things are the stuff of mantles.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:36am PT
Henny, mantles are very necessary. They provide essential nutrients and give one vigor and fortitude. A mantle man is a man of integrity. The ancient romans called mantles the "staff of life". Moses cranked every mantle he encountered while leading the jews to the holy land. Jesus said "blessed art thou who mantle, for they are god's favored children". This country was founded on the principle of life, liberty and heinous presses. Do i need to tell you everything?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:41am PT
BITD Sean used to lurk by that thing, hanging out on the road, waiting to sandbag unsuspecting n00bs. It was a riot. True story.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:47am PT
Purity, perfection...these things are the stuff of mantles.

Pointlessness, laughable brevity, the quest of the addled and those with questionable judgement, an emphasis on neck-up imprudence, the penultimate "why bother" of bouldering: these things are the stuff of, er, mantles.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 13, 2012 - 02:56am PT
Do i need to tell you everything?

It would appear that way. I keep fogetting how necessary mantles are, essential even.
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