Woodson 2012

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bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
Doug, you need to be a little more careful. bvb's head is going to swell up so far it'll explode

Sorry Darrel, but clearly that horse left the barn a very long time ago.

On another note, there is some history to my profound and enduring aversion to mantles. Nearly 40 years ago me and Watusi and Off White were doing Nutcracker for the first time. Our rack consisted of Eiger Ovals and first-generation Chouinard stoppers and hexes. Dicey rack by todays standards, or any standards for that matter. Mind you, I was skinny as f*#k, had been climbing for about a week, barely knew how to tie a figure 8, and could do maybe two pullups.

Naturally, I get the Mantle pitch.

It was an epic struggle over a sure-fire ankle breaker fall -- assuming that manky #6 stopper held -- that has left me traumatized to this day. Over the decades I've tried therapy, meditation, acid, alcoholism, chakra realignment, body cleanses, fasting, enemas, all to no avail. I've simply learned to accept that in this one small, insignificant regard, I am just very slightly less skilled than old Ron-O.

Convinced he was about to document my death, Off White captured this evocative image of grace under pressure:



Before we draw the curtain of charity across this entire scene, let us note for the record I've got one nut in -- that suspect, rotating #6 stopper -- and if it goes, I'm in for one hell of a whopper. Of such moments great memories are made.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
g-davis, if its mantles you want, go to santee boulders and you will find them everywhere. On woodson, the chopper mantles and kamikaze mantle are on the same boulder just downhill from the jump problem. To the right of the jump is a low boulder called the soloflex, that is a great mantleshelf. To the left of the jump is a tiny boulder with a white spot painted on it - the curtis mantle. Theres more but that should keep you busy for awhile.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
Thanks! I look forward to it :)
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
The "Mexican Dinner Mantle" right off the road near Digit's Delight is one of my favorites. The soloflex mantles are definitely a must do as well.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:05am PT
Anyone headed out there today?

I'm going to explore the summit area a bit and find some boulders that I've never checked out.

"Little Horn" is a really cool mantel problem, recently de-forested and readily accessible.

Psyched for another weekend at Woodson!!
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 8, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
I second Mark's comments. Of the ones I've done, those two are my favorites.

Darkmagus, too bad I didn't see your comment earlier. What did you get on?
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 8, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
...the components of a mantle; the pop, the turn, the lock, the press and the lockout.

What about "the hang?"
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 9, 2012 - 10:37am PT
The necessity of knowing how to mantle

No such necessity ever has, currently does, or for that matter, ever will exist.

Fact.

What's up with the attraction to problems that take minutes or more to gain a couple of inches in upward progress?

bvb, how is it that you have pictures of everything you've ever done? It doesn't seem to matter what the topic, route, or problem, but that you seem to have pictures of it. Best I can do is hope I can even remember if I did something or not, whereas you simply trot out the pictures. Dang.

darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 10:58am PT
Doug, were you there yesterday? I saw someone on top of the Masters of the Universe boulders and thought, there's someone that knows "the spots"!

I did a "high volume" day of mantels and face climbs. A couple of random ones at the summit, did the "clicker mantel" (aka mexican dinner mantel), love that one. Then I went to the boulders near jaws, got on a cool arÍte problem, and did that knob problem as well. I love that little spot, I never see anyone there, but saw a piece of carpet indicating the presence of others! I got on those face climbs on the "I would die for you" boulder, but didn't even try that one. Then did the soloflex mantels, chopper mantels (no kamikaze mantel yet), considered taking a rip on "he man" but had no strength left by the time I got back down the hill.

I'm going to go back this week maybe a couple of times to put in work on some stuff. Let me know when you go next time and we can link up!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
Bob, it still makes me smile to hear someone talk about a particular move on a climb, maybe even on the other side of the world, and to be able to intimately relate to it because you've done that "move" as well! I'm referring to the Nutcracker and the "#6" stopper below the mantle. I can clearly recall, back in September 1983, standing below the mantle head wall and placing a #7 stopper in that seam, then moving up to the slopping shelf and thinking, "This is going to be bad if I fall off this sucker," having to move up and back down about three times before committing and getting that thing. Good stuff.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
You can't forget about the 5.7 mantle on the Practice Boulder on the right...probably one of the first mantles on Woodson that I did.

Speaking of Santee Mantles, this sequence of Greg Epperson on Eppi's Lunge, taken by deepnet, still leaves me awestruck...

Credit: deepnet

Credit: Rick Allenby
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
...and the wild Animal Mantle above the Dead Animal Traverse ("the hang" Doug, ;-):

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
bvb, how is it that you have pictures of everything you've ever done?

Geeze Henny, with all the smoke I blow around here who would believe a word I said if I couldn't yard out a photo once in a while?!

Personally, I attribute the vast archive documenting my extraordinary career -- one widely regarded, in fact, as legendary (although you probably already knew that) -- to my naked charisma, my mindbending level of achievement, my glassine photogenic aura, and my pure animal magnetism. Like Paris Hilton, the camera loves me, and I oblige.

However, on mature reflection, it probably has to do with the sheer volume of inveterate shutterbugs to emerge from the greater Scumbag family and 'Dago in general. Off White is a primary culprit, with Epi and Brian Bailey and a host of other nascent paparazzi circling my outer perimeter. The glare of stardom was simultanously harsh, warm, and demanding. It's a wonder I've emerged with my demure humility and down-to-earth, man-of-the-people persona intact. Unpretentious, shy, reserved: these are the characteristics I most cherish in myself.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:31am PT
Woodson Christmas Tree
Woodson Christmas Tree
Credit: darkmagus

Fluffy clouds near the summit.
Fluffy clouds near the summit.
Credit: darkmagus
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Dec 10, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
BVB.....you just haven't found the right enema....:)
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 11, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
It could have been me Darkmagus. I won't make it out there this week, but will probably be there on Saturday. Maybe Sunday as well.
Horvath

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 09:56am PT
So Ron, has anyone else done Blind Faith? What other mantels were you hiking at the time- the curt? Rick did you ever do it?

After showing it to Doug, we both agree, it's one of the harder, if not hardest pure mantels on the hill... at least this it looks that way...and its terrifying in a ridiculous way.

Blind Faith
Blind Faith
Credit: Horvath
(see the crashpad below for reference to the length of the fall)


had a sweet day saturday with Doug and Phil, Ya Magus you that was probably us up there at Masters.
that B1 dyno is hard! Also got around and did greg's problems.
Credit: Horvath
anyone know what the original lines were on this? I bailed right to the blunt arete on the first go, but then we TR'ed going straight up as well which was sweet.

Finished off the day down at left and right hand rule, cleaned off a LOT of brush and between our crew managed to send both lines.

Credit: Horvath
Here's Phil on the rad 5.7 arete you can use to approach the anchors for right hand rule

Also, anyone know what animal makes this?

ON the trail between TV and Slant
ON the trail between TV and Slant
Credit: Horvath
As Doug and I were hiking out last time, we saw two eyes probably a hundred yards away blinking back at our headlamps. Hoping it wasn't a cougar we hightailed to the road, but we've been seeing this scat ALL over the hill lately and was guessing it may be the same animal.



Lastly,
Anyone know what this is? I think I posted this already but no one responded. Doug snapped this rad shot last season.
Credit: Doug Tomczik
Credit: Doug Tomczik
Credit: Horvath

darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 11:29am PT
That totally was you guys! I inferred that it had to be some well-skilled individuals if you were doing just about any climb in that area. I was SO close to stopping by and saying hi but was trying to stay psyched for the hike, to make it to the top and then start climbing. Should have done it!! I would have asked for a spot on Morrocan Menace ;)

Let's try to coordinate a session soon! I'll definitely be there Sunday all day (starting early).

Edit: I also found out where "Blind Faith" is, it definitely looked HARD, but then I touched the rock, it's SUPER smooth, I just shook my head and said a few curse words...
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
Credit: Russ Walling
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
wtf homeboy is WAY off-sequence in that photo you guys trippin' on windowpane or WHUT not sure we got enough chalk on that motherf*#ker yo.
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