Woodson 2012

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henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 1, 2012 - 01:57am PT
After topping the mountain, before getting to the Dragon it's downhill a bit on the left. You know where Aces High is? It's on the same big boulder. I think there's an old telephone pole somewhat in proximity. I'll have to check a map/topo to give directions as I don't know the names of the other problems in the area.

Steep small hold edging. Tall. It can be led (5 bolts if I remember) or TR'd.

Edit: Now I'm thinking it might be more than 5 bolts. Who knows, I don't remember.
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Feb 1, 2012 - 02:05am PT
Cool. I know which boulder. I'll have to get on both Aces High and Piece of Mind.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 1, 2012 - 03:11am PT
Doug, the "20 point crack" across from Big Grunt is Werner's Wish. He gave it 20 points in a bouldering contest but it was a hike, hence the name. I'll dig up and post a photo. It's actually across the street, and a bit downhill, on the backside of the Poison Oak Crack boulder, i think. The climb is a leaning, overhanging flake/tips crack that leans right a bit then goes straight up.

There's another "Slap You Silly" type arete that just downhill and across the street from Hamburger Crack and on the same side of the road/downhill from Werner's Wish. There is a massive cleft/Chimmney formed by Two boulders, capped by a third boulder. Obvious from the road as you're hiking up past California Night and Jaws. Whack around down to the base of the chimmney, it's the arete on the left side. Me and Eric Ericsson and Jocelyn and maybe Kurt and Carmel and a couple others tried it one day and none of us got it. 86/87, thereabouts. Quality and clearly difficult. Somebody had some really good weed that day and we were seriously impaired.

Have any of the seams by Digit's Delight been freed? There's the one right behind Digits, there is the boulder which has Clicker, and then there is a short seam east of Digits.

I gave both of the seams by Digits many half-hearted attempts, but they just seemed way too futuristic. The short one on your left as you're standing at the base of Digits appears to have been slightly manufactured; I think climbing it will involve significant use of two-fingernail crimps and new-age shoes will help. I'm sure it's in the cards for today's mutants.

The one downhill on your right from digits, on the backside of the clicker boulder, seemed way more plausible and i devoted quite a few attempts to it. I think it felt more like an actual, but absurdly thin, crack climb? Absurd sorta-jams for the tips that you had to crimp and lean off to make work, but definately stuff for the feet. Right foot smearing in the shallow, bottoming crack and left foot on the face? 25 - 30 years ago. Dim recollections.

To my knowledge, to this day, they're both still vigin and worthy. Go git 'em!

Schwitzer, Carmel, et al, at Werner's Wish.  Is the blond haired guy k...
Schwitzer, Carmel, et al, at Werner's Wish. Is the blond haired guy klimmer?

Credit: bvb
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Feb 1, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
Oh duh, Werner's Wish.

It's funny, the other day I was lying underneath the cap (of the boulder with Cast of a Thousand Stones) trying to escape the hot air and I actually noticed the arete that you're talking about.

Last time I looked at the seam right by Digit's it looked way more doable than I remembered. That said, I didn't get on it so I wasn't reminded of how absolutely thin the feet are. At least there are a series of crimpable pinned out and/or manufactured pods... There are more seams along that switchback than anywhere else on woodson that I'm aware of. It's kind of crazy. And then there's the steep, leaning, and incredibly smooth seam east of Camlock. If that thing was jammable it would be amazing climbing.

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
A half hearted attempt at 3rd classing Werner's Wish...

G. McCay reciting Werner's Wish 5.11b
G. McCay reciting Werner's Wish 5.11b
Credit: Ken Klis
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Speaking of WW...

This may not be new news to some but it was for me about two years ago. At the apex of the crack, when it angles right up to the dihedral, there is a hidden ledge/top of a flake about two feet, directly up from this spot. A fried of mine, Chris Kleppe, described it one day (after finding it himself while on rappell) and convinced me to give it a go. Whoa, too cool! I don't think it's any harder but definitely a more direct variation! I've heard others (Donny, Dan, MP?) foot traversing that finger traverse at the start too!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
Hey Donny, I was going to include Bat Flake too for the start to that thing is sweet! So clean, double overhanging, classic body position and a hint of stemming. The only reason why I didn't was the OW at the top. I've been told of the hidden face hold/exit up on the flake about midway up the OW, but STILL haven't finished that thing!

Fall Semester, that thing PUMPED me out! Never got it.

Credit: illusiondweller

Out of Sight crack, 5.9:

Credit: illusiondweller

&#40;a bit lower angle than depicted here&#41;
(a bit lower angle than depicted here)
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
Came across this while perusing rc.com, gotta love it:



"Anonymous hardman (aka bvb), in full mid-70's hairfarmer mode, hiking an obscure V6 Woodson highball, circa 1978. But enough about the route and the burly skill clearly in evidence...let's check out those threads! for today's bouldering outfit, our hero, clearly willing to take the most outrageous fashion risks, will be sporting a pair of Haines long underwear, neatly paired with a "tighty whitey" wifebeater tank top and cleverly accesorized with a pair of dainty powder blue corduroy shorts. grey sweat socks provide a firm anchor for the loose cuffs of the long undies, ensuring they don't ride up on those big woodson high step moves -- an often feared fashion faux pas to be avoided at all costs. rounding out today's sporting ensemble will be a length of green 2" tubular webbing, cleverly color coordinated with bob's green RR's (at the time, one of the few available alternatives to eb's) and a home-made chalkbag supported by a $2.35 cent eiger oval beaner looped through the webbing. yes ladies and gentlemen, fashion-forward style sense like this comes along once in a generation...thank god..."


illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
snake pliskin...

Sounds like you're having a blast up there on the mountain and have already got your feet wet on some classic Woodson stone. As far as I know, you pretty much called it correctly, the "5.8 arete." In all honesty, most, if not all, of those posting on this thread have probably done that thing more than once in their gazillion years on Woodson. It's not surprising, to me, that it's on your list. It's definitely a classic roadside problem!

Horvath

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
Hey Gary spill the beans on that photo above!

5.8 arete is recently referred to as Baby Edge, but I doubt thats the originial name...


Anyone have any information on this arete? The thing has been bugging me for about a year and I finally did it on tuesday. It has a bolt at the start to A0 your way over the undercut bulge. After that, totally classic 5.9/10- edges with one cruxy smear move to get established on the arete. Unfortunately no bolts on top.

Credit: Horvath

Credit: Horvath
Thank you Doug for the shots!

snake pliskin

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 2, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
Greg,
Where is that thing? Playground?
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 2, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
Greg, you talkin' about the one of BVB in his fancy outfit? I have no idea what or where that is. I'm sure Bob does though.
Horvath

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
Pliskin,
Its up just above the Cave. The big fin on the right is the Sail. Basically its like 50 feet east of Digits Delight! Right in the middle of it all!
snake pliskin

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 6, 2012 - 12:05am PT
Didn't recognize the Sail at first glance.

Last couple weekends have been much fun up on the hill. Planning on a trip to the valley in the spring, so I've been trying to work out some kinks in the offwidth game. Last weekend was Crucible and Sickle Crack with some family fun on the solo circuit.
partner Jeff on Crucible
partner Jeff on Crucible
Credit: snake pliskin

me on baby robbins
me on baby robbins
Credit: snake pliskin
LMo

climber
Feb 6, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
A couple pictures from another great weekend out at Woodson:

Sunset 2/4/12
Sunset 2/4/12
Credit: LMo

Here is Mark K cruising up the Painted Boulder at sunset- a great way for him to top off the day after christening a fresh pair of Kaukulators on his send of The Widow, Bereft!

Credit: LMo


Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
Those are some sketchy moves on that painted boulder! The shaded north face has some mind benders as well, up the FAT brown stain to the horizontal seam then following it left to the top!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 7, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
The Widow, Bereft

At last, people are getting the name right! I can now die a happy man.

Gary, you ever do the thing at the far left in that last photo, goes up the brown streak just right of the white paint streak on edges then finishes up the seam/crack? I only did it twice, and it scared the bejeus out of me both times. You do NOT want to fall off the top of that f*#ker.

As has been mentioned upthread, that hand/foot match on the undercling and knob on the West Face of Painted Boulder is one of the most aesthetic and spatially satisfying at Woodson. Love it. And I was still able to do it last time up there! w00t!

EDIT: Oh, I just realized we're talking about the same problem. North face, brown streak. Yep. Like landing on concrete if you pitch.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
Anyone else want to name a few more in this photo?

Credit: Truthdweller
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
Geeze Bob, I almost thought you were referring to a "direct" version of the line I mentioned, for I've always heard a rumor that Woodward had done one! Directly up the THIN (vs. FAT) brown streak to the seam to the top. Any truth to that?

Edit: yep, concrete covered with ball bearings!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 7, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
No Gary, I think were talking about the same thing. Sizable edges finishing with a sizable reach move up to the horizontal seam, a sketchy move or two left to get to where the seam goes vertical, then straight up -- which is where it felt insecure and scary to me.
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