Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jun 20, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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I don't think I've seen that crack before... looks amazing, no doubt!
Slap and tickle (a brilliant problem by the way), is kind of hard to rate. I've only attempted/sent it once.
In early May, Greg and I put in approximately a combined 20 to 30 attempts by headlamp. Suddenly, one of us sent it. Immediately after, the other topped it out, too. It was such a surreal phenomenon as there was at most a 2 minute interval of good conditions. As with those sends go, the movement was natural and the climbing followed a path of weakness. Following the sends, we were so psyched and moved shop to the "unidentified neighbor." However, the 2 minute interval had fleeted and we were left to bash our knees for another hour or so. Greg being the beast he is, repeated an earlier ascent of his. I, however, could use to practice more yoga.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2012 - 07:29am PT
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Friend, i dont know for sure, but that looks like its is over on the north side, and might I say, surrounded by poison oak.
Just waiting for Ron to chime in, but bvb, any recollection on the name of that route to the right of slap and tickle. should be KP's Demise, but if you or anyone else has heard otherwise let us know.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 22, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
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The thing to the right of Slap n' Tickle....know not, do I. But I remember how bummed my 'ol buddy Ronbo was when I hiked Slap n' Tickle.
He should have known better than take me to a slab. I think it was around the same month I did Head First In The Bushes. Heh.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 22, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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Hey Bob, Ron, other Woodson locals (still not sure whether to fit you in Darryl),
Share some tales of how you used Woodson to directly/indirectly prepare/train for a particular route/crack. I recall hearing about, then having the incredible opportunity of following, Tom Lindner, up the hill on his solo crack circuit, while he was training to do the Nose in the Valley. You must have some of your own.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 23, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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Hey Bob, Ron, other Woodson locals (still not sure whether to fit you in Darryl),
Share some tales of how you used Woodson to directly/indirectly prepare/train for a particular route/crack. I recall hearing about, then having the incredible opportunity of following, Tom Lindner, up the hill on his solo crack circuit, while he was training to do the Nose in the Valley. You must have some of your own.
Maybe not!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jun 23, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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It's all about the opposite... training for Woodson.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 24, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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I was just commenting to someone today about how a problem like Lemon Chiffon was a classic problem that prepared your head for the runouts experienced at Suicide. Then again, I know for me, I pushed myself to highball problems just so that my head would develop while on the lead. Woodson was always a test piece for that, for as someone said in the past, "Ah, Woodson, where a fifteen foot fall could be fatal."
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jun 25, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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Out of curiosity (and maybe this has already been discussed), what is the most definitive and up to date guide for Woodson these days--published, or unpublished? I know all the classics, and then some, but lots of other areas have been more fully explored since the years I regularly haunted the hill.
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matisse
climber
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Jun 25, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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I'd have to say Horvath, Mark K or Doug.
Sure there is BVB (American Legend) Amick etc. but they are not widely available.
:)
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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"Out of curiosity (and maybe this has already been discussed), what is the most definitive and up to date guide for Woodson these days--published, or unpublished? I know all the classics, and then some, but lots of other areas have been more fully explored since the years I regularly haunted the hill."
Man, I'm not going to touch that one, for I'd get my head bit off by someone for sure! Matisse has a good point though, if a visitor can find a consummate guide to head up the hill with, they're golden! Even with a thorough guidebook, you just can't navigate efficiently on that mountain with all the hidden trails, etc. I was fortunate to have had a mentor, Roger Barnes, to take me under his wing and guided me for the first five years or so, and continues to be a part of my climbing memories to this day. He's in his seventies now. When I first met him, I used to call him "old man," and he'd call me, "punk kid." I was (19), he was (45). Time flew, that's for sure!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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OT but, I just came upon this photo online and said, "Wait, that's me (with the glasses on)!
I believe I was at this ACSD meeting asking for help in putting the Woodson Reunion together.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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Korean Cowboy?...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
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Two year old Chris Lindner at the '86 Woodson contest...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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Mr. Paul...@ the '86 contest?
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Phantom Fugitive
Social climber
Misery
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Jul 19, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
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Headed to Santee to visit the fam next week. Any locals wanna give me a tour of ze' Mt Wilson? Looking for ze' classic cracks.
I can bring a healthy pad and am a 5.15b spotter.
Jeremy Collins
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
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sick photo of Greg's Face Gary. and yes that's eliot on Korean Cowboy.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jul 21, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Jeremy, I'm down for woodson. When did you want to go?
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deano
climber
sonora
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Jul 21, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Does anyone know who did the first ascent of Hard As Nails? Or the first ropeless ascent? Such a bad ass route!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 21, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
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deano,
I can only tell you who/when I first heard of someone third classing HAN, and that was Dave "Spray" Robinson, circa ' 85-90, but I wouldn't be surprised if Rick Piggot did it before Dave was even born! Rick third classed hard up on Woodson!
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