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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 22, 2006 - 08:45am PT
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Most of you probably know of George as a famous Alpinist/Himalayan climber (the Lowe Buttress on Everest, North Face of North Twin - THAT sort of thing). Well, as incredible as those accomplishments are, he's also a pretty good rock climber who's going strong at 62.
George and I, who used to climb together quite a bit in the early '90s, a few months ago climbed Air Voyage in the Black Canyon - quite a test piece for a strong 25-year-old let alone a 62-year old. Around 1996 (at 50+), he climbed Astroman, the West Face of El Cap, and another long free route with Alex Lowe (no relation) on a one-two week trip to Yosemite.
Um, let's see, he's also a pilot, a physicist, and a father of three - and as modest a guy as you'll ever meet.
I'll be 50 this year and still have some climbing dreams (Stratosphere in the Black Canyon, Astroman repeat, among others). My model for going forward will be George Lowe.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 22, 2006 - 09:11am PT
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Yeah Grug, I'm 50 at the end of May, and I am hoping to ramp up my climbing activity in the years to come and guys like George are an inspiration.
Isn't Bridwell 62 as well? Werner, what say you?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 22, 2006 - 09:52am PT
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Theres's a full pic shot of George in the latest issue (#15) of Alpinist as well as a list of his accomplishments over the years. A couple years ago, my brother in Denver says he's working with a guy who he thinks is a well-known climber (bro don't climb). I ask who it is and he says "George Lowe". I'm still trying to arrange a meeting...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 22, 2006 - 10:20am PT
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I still haven't seen the new plane, got to buzz around the canyons a bit in the last one.
Yeah, George is a freak of nature. Perhaps he has a Dorien Grey type portrait festering away in that place above Golden, but I think he just lives healthy and the girls keep him young.
Still, after the Totem Pole incident, its hard to talk him into stuff on the rez.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 22, 2006 - 10:22am PT
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Jeff told me that Greg was really the Wunderkind of the 3 Lowe Bros.
Something of an unsung hero, with some very hard rock routes to his record, performed ahead of his time. He thought Greg's accomplishments were worthy of a retrospective.
Grug?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 22, 2006 - 10:29am PT
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Apples and oranges.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 22, 2006 - 10:33am PT
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(and FYI George is cousin to Greg and Jeff, who have something like a half dozen siblings including Mike, another accomlished climber)
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 10:41am PT
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Tarbuster. Jeff and Greg are brothers, George is the cousin. From what I understand, Greg was the smarts behind the Lowe products - I knew he climbed, but I don't know much other than that. Turns out, I stayed with Dennis Sullivan for a couple weeks in Boulder before moving here - Dennis lived next door to Greg...it's a small world.
By the way, I'm planning on using a MODIFIED George Lowe model going forward.
George Lowe -- Modified George Lowe
Doesn't drink -- Will drink
Doesn't do drugs -- Um, I'll modify this
Eats healthy -- I'll modify this one a little
Works out regularly -- Plan on changing my ways
Positive outlook -- Just like George
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 22, 2006 - 10:55am PT
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Just the facts then.
Hey isn't there a 3rd Lowe Bro tho?
Speaking of the various others, I did meet some of those younger Lowe Bra when out on repping tour in Ogden. More hot shite climber types.
I used to have the Ascent with George and whatshisname on N Face of N Twin. 'Think I bought Knickers after that.
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10b4me
Ice climber
The Happies
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Mar 22, 2006 - 11:33am PT
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I used to have the Ascent with George and whatshisname on N Face of N Twin. 'Think I bought Knickers after that.
I think it was Alex Lowe(no relation) that was with George on NFNT.
to all the SoCal people, it was interesting to read that George's first roped climb was on the Trough at Big Rock.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 22, 2006 - 11:37am PT
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Nope, not to get all history-buffy:
But I think Chris Jones on the FA of NFNT?
Alex Lowe came later...
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 11:46am PT
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George did a number of rock climbs with Alex, who he would always say was "genetically superior".
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Mar 22, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
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George did some very proud stuff in Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah. One of his finest was the Dorsal Fin III 5.10d (slab) in 1965. I bet it is rated R by todays standards (25 ft runouts) and typical of the Lowe's it was originally rated 5.9. Pretty amazing and you should definitely do this one route in LCC if you are ever out there. Here is a story I wrote about climbing with George in the early 80's...
The Wasatch has been home to many great climbers. I got the chance to climb with one of LCC’s most famous pioneers one day. My friend DH called me in the spring of 1984 and asked if I could go climbing with one of his buddies who was coming to town, George Lowe. DH had promised to go with him and had something else come up so he was trying to round up a partner for George. I am way past any hero stage in my life, with the exception of George. I blew off work so I could climb with him. I picked George up and while he seemed pretty easy going there was an intensity about the guy. Just by being with him you kind of knew that he could not sit still for long. He said he wanted to climb something he had not done before and was pretty new in the 10-11 range. Gordon’s Hangover Direct had recently been free climbed by Steve Hong and the initial beta I had was that it was 5.11R, and the crux was protected with RP’s. I had not ever been on it so I figured it was a good one for George and I. The rock in that area is stellar and I had heard the moves on the route were not too bad.
I am still not sure how I got the sharp end, but what the hell. That climb is really not too bad except for a couple moves. I got up there and hesitated for a pretty long time. When I finally pulled the moves off, I was psyched. I remember those moves as being very strange and tenuous, not like an obvious pull down or anything. While the pro was a little thin it did not seem all that bad either. As I belayed George I was impressed with the speed and surety of his moves. He did not hesitate at all on the crux and he just climbed right through the sucker like it was 5.7. Made me kind of feel like sh**. George said, “Good lead, I would not have had the patience and probably would have fallen by just going for it!” I said thanks and knew that he would have hiked it on lead.
The next climb we did was Catalyst , 5.10+. It had an awesome undercling (very sustained) followed by a powerful move over an overhang. In those days I remember being in the undercling dinking with some stoppers for pro. It was very strenuous and with small CAM’s pro would be simple. George’s lead. I was a bit surprised that George struggled with this a bit, but in those days I think George was more in shape for Himalayan peaks that strenuous rock climbs. Nevertheless, he got through the undercling after taking a fall and then cruised the 5.10 crack section above. George climbed fast and efficiently, that is the one thing that I learned from him. No wasted movement, throw the piece in and go. Some of those folks on RC.com who analyze everything down to the rats ass, triple up on pro for 5.7 and debate over minutia would learn a lot from George. I guess when you are on the North face of Alberta with a small rack there is not much time to f*** around, just go for it.
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T-2
Mountain climber
Baldwin Park , Calif.
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Mar 22, 2006 - 12:33pm PT
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My pal Rich Henke did the Cassin with George many years back and said that he was basically towed up the thing by Lowe. Rich was in awe. George is on my list of "heros" and I hope I'm at least going at half his speed when I'm George's age. A recent issue of Alpinist had a great profile on Lowe. Check it out.
Tony Yeary
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spyork
Trad climber
Fremont, CA
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Mar 22, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
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Wow this is very cool. I'm 45 and I have a huge list of things I still want to do. People like him are a great inspiration for me.
I remember when I was going to Berkeley, and I was cycling up around Grizzly Peak. This guy and his wife passed me as I was struggling up a very steep section. I asked if he would mind telling me how old they were. Ohh about mid 60s was the reply. It just floored me, I thought it was way cool.
Keep on truckin!
Steve
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 22, 2006 - 01:15pm PT
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Sewellymon, yeah I had a pair of Galibier Super Guides, great boots.
I always thought Alex was a cousin or something of the others.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 22, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
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Once again;
Jeff, Greg, Mike, and others; brothers
George; son of their father's brother
Alex; not related
(also not related, noted British Alpine Club member)
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Mar 22, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
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There appears to be some confusion.
This is George Lowe:
He is best known for his ground-breaking ascent of the North Twin and for the voice of the animated character Space Ghost.
This is Space Ghost:
Jeff is George's (and Space Ghost's) cousin. This is Jeff:
Greg is Jeff's brother and thus George's cousin as well. This is Greg:
This is Alex. Alex wasn't related to anybody. He came from outer space and absolutely tore sh#t up.
Rob is Jeff's half-brother, Greg's roommate, and entirely unrelated to George. This is Rob:
Ai-yi-yi!
Rob has a brother Chad. Chad is George's double under-cousin and Jeff's sworn enemy. This is Chad, on the right:
As you can see, Chad is not the most interesting thing in that photo. In fact, there are at least two things more interesting than Chad. As you can see, the three of them (Chad and Hillary Swank's breasts) were voted the #22 Hottest Couple in Hollywood. This being apparently before Hillary ditched him because she was a superstar with nine Oscars and he was just George Lowe's double under-cousin.
The #23 Hottest Couple in Hollywood turns out to be Jude Law and Sadie Frost.
I'm not entirely sure if Sadie was the nanny Jude banged and then married, or if he was married to Sadie whilst banging a different nanny, or how exactly. Sadie, though, is Tom Frost's daughter.
This is Tom:
Tom Frost, along with Jeff and Greg Lowe, did the second ascent of Ama Dablam in 1979. This is Ama Dablam:
Schwiiiinggg!
George, Alex, Rob and Chad were not invited on the expedition. Young filmmaker David Breashears, however, was:
That is a swarthy man. This is a better picture:
Fabulous picture, in fact. That picture was taken during the filming of the IMAX Everest flick. The Everest IMAX featured Araceli Segarra:
I'm sure you remember, boys. But the interesting thing here is that Everest was first climbed in 1953 by a British expedition. One of the team members was a chap named Wallace George Lowe, OBE, CNZM.
As you can see he has a very stiff upper lip.
Now quit bothering me--I'm busy today!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 22, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
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"noted British Alpine Club member"
Too funny!
(terrible pic of George though. If it wasn't for the background I would think he was in the midst of undergoing a colo-rectal exam.)
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 22, 2006 - 03:02pm PT
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30 years later it would still be a BIG accomplishment to do a George Lowe Rockies hat trick of the N faces of N Twin, Alberta, and Geiki. The closest anyone has gotten is Barry Blanchard with Alberta and N Twin.
A good quote from the late Dave Cheesmond about George and Alex. In 1985 Dave and Barry had their eye on climbing the North Pillar of N Twin and were wating for the right conditions. Dave phones Barry one day and frantically says "We gotta go man. George is gunning for the pillar and he's bringing Alex! If you bring Alex it's cheating!"
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 22, 2006 - 04:11pm PT
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Know/ knew all four. Dave and I did our first El Cap together with Georges Bettembourge. Then we met in Oakland after Georges was killed by rockfall. In '87 I told Catherine of my confidence in Dave but the mountains can be cruel masters.
After Sail Peak I saw Alex on Good Morning America where the bonehead doing the interview asked him if the innuit "guides" took them up the mountain as well!
At OR we passed on escalators saying hi but I never got to tell him how he should have baited the bonehead by saying, "Oh yes those eskimos are marvelous climbers. They have camming devices made of whalebone hundreds of years ago..."
Only weeks later I got the news.
Drink up lads for life is short and there is much to be savored.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 22, 2006 - 04:13pm PT
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Sorry for the hijack...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 22, 2006 - 04:32pm PT
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Oh, and for Patrick Sawyer, Bridwell isn't 62 until this July. He does however have a portrait of himself hidden away that depicts a young blonde (mustachiode) climber.
(just a little wylde humor)
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 22, 2006 - 04:39pm PT
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Yo and Piton Ron, thanks for clearing things up.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 22, 2006 - 06:14pm PT
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yo!
Arm Chair God is what you are.
But to the point:
Ferget about the Lowe Bros.
Didn't Space Ghost have a hip daughter named Jan?
She was sooo Hot!!
Please advise.
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juneau
Mountain climber
nashua,n.h.
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Mar 22, 2006 - 08:11pm PT
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George Lowe was at the Annual AAC meeting this year (Feb '06) at the main dinner event he showed his slides. Great stuff of Winter ascent of N. face of the Grand back in late 60's also were a few of Astroman in 96(?) w/ Alex (mentioned earlier in this forum) I felt fortunate to see the stuff as it was apparent George had not showed any of his stuff to non- fam/friends in a long time. Totally a humble hard-man.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 22, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
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Yep. Seeing the G.L. show as the top billing for the AAC meeting was great. Amazing tick list and still going strong. Some noticed (not I, of course) that he looks great in black tights after ice climbing...sportin' a bandaid after catchin' a chunk of ice on the mug (hikin' Dropline? Eeek, that rig was pumpy!).
Ali O's send up "Boy George" is a good read.
More Air and I did the Undone Book on Lone Peak a few years ago...yikes...put up in the mid 60's, and one crappy bolt to protect that "5.9" terrain? Guidebook alludes that it might be 5.11a. Way out there. FFA of the Coffin Crack. Etc etc. Inspiring!
He is best known for his ground-breaking ascent of the North Twin and for the voice of the animated character Space Ghost.
That was some funny shizz...
-Brian in SLC
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 22, 2006 - 08:57pm PT
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Forget the Lowes! Bring on more photos of Araceli! That chick is hot hot HOT!
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 11:45am PT
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Bump. George and a guy named Conrad are attempting to do the Salathe Wall in a day this week - probably today or tomorrow. George says they are planning on starting at midnight. Sending good vibes your way George!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 20, 2006 - 04:22pm PT
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That is really disgusting!
I mean that is REALLY disgusting!
I'm gonna have to talk some sense to that whippersnapper.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
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I was just climbing with George at Eldo this last weekend. He's not the fastest climber in the world, but he's like the Eveready Bunny...he just keeps going. Hopefully those batteries keep him going for the 34 pitches or whatever.
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Michael Kennedy
Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
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Jun 20, 2006 - 04:47pm PT
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Having climbed with George on two of the best trips I've ever been on - North Face, Mount Hunter and Infinite Spur, Mount Foraker (Alaska, 1977), and North Ridge, Latok 1 (Pakistan, 1978) I can confirm all the accolades. He's the baddest of the badasses out there, but you will never meet a nicer guy.
I could pretty much keep up with him 30 years ago but if he and Conrad get up the Salathe in a day I'm gonna be pissed. I'm 54 and just did the NW Face of Half Dome with my 16-year-old son Hayden - bivies at the base of the wall and Big Sandy, so we weren't setting any speed records - and I could barely walk afterwards (and the kid led 2/3s of the route).
I wanna be like George when I grow up.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 20, 2006 - 06:57pm PT
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Yo, your stream of conciousness connection of the dots was absolutely priceless. Thanks for the laugh it gave me.
And Pete, yes Araceli is hands down the most beautiful woman to ever stand atop an 8000M peak. Or any other form of rock, snow or ice. So here ya go, our girl Araceli. I think George would approve of a brief thread hijack for some quick gazing at her.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 20, 2006 - 07:56pm PT
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What happened to Angelina Jolie?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 20, 2006 - 08:32pm PT
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Vintage Angelina will always be #1 Ron. But Araceli's a damn remarkable woman. She can outcrank 99% of all mountaineers and climbers. She weighs 100 lbs and can carry almost double that on her back up a peak. She still models for Vogue. She's stunning in every sense. What's not to love about Araceli.
Some vintage Angie...before she got all mom-like and Brad lovin:
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Oct 13, 2006 - 02:22pm PT
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bump,
grug, "Bump. George and a guy named Conrad are attempting to do the Salathe Wall in a day this week - probably today or tomorrow. George says they are planning on starting at midnight. Sending good vibes your way George! "
Well, the question is not whether they pulled it off, but how fast?
I am sure this is the same Conrad that gave my buddy and I beta to do this in a day, but I admit, I could not do all the tricks Conrad gave us. One was to forgo aiders on the roof and monkey free the fixed pro. No sirree, that there is gorilla moves after already climbing so far.
Simply an amazing feat at 62. Damn....
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 13, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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I second that inquiry Gary.
TR! TR! TR!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Oct 13, 2006 - 02:49pm PT
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From he who was formerly named grug.
Turns out George and Conrad didn't quite make it under 24 hours. Jeez, it's been so long since I've done the thing, I don't even remember the name of the ledge up high where they decided to take a little nap (since they knew they were not going to make it anyhow). In the end, they did it in 27 hours or something.
I've been climbing with George semi-regularly for the last few months. We've both been in better shape, and don't always pull off our climbs in the best style, but he's always game for hard climbing. With any luck, we'll get a Black Canyon Grade V in before the end of the season.
Btw, since this thread has been bumped, one correction to my original post - George has 4 kids (not 3) - two from the first marriage and two from the second. The younger two girls are 12 and 14.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Oct 13, 2006 - 04:06pm PT
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Thanks for the update. That is very proud. And at 62? wow.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Oct 13, 2006 - 09:15pm PT
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I always used to say, "If you want to get up something, go with George!"
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Conrad
climber
MT
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Oct 14, 2006 - 09:21am PT
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This past summer solstice George and I met up for an ascent of the Salathe. He had climbed it in 1968 (ot there abouts) with Jeff and wanted to revisit the route. He climbed it with gold line, pitons and a couple of bivies. I recall his observation that the headwall crack was a little garden with flowers and dirt. It is now a hard free climb that gets projected - lots of chalk and tick marks on key foot holds.
This is George on the 10d fist crack above the ear, chugging away.
George with his ever present smile and good attitude just below roof on the headwall.
Our goal was to climb it sub 24, which we didn't make. We made it to Long Ledge right on 24 hours and realized that the in a day goal was off so we decided to take a nap. If we climbed through we would be end up being a mosquito buffet on the summit.
We're planning a return visit next year - he'll be 63 and I'll be 44. He is quite keen on the combined age in a day idea.
Here's to George, Jeff and Greg for inspiring us all. And for Alex "No Relation" Lowe - it's been seven years and we keep your spirit close to our hearts.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 14, 2006 - 09:42am PT
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Thanks Conrad,
Hey got any other stories?
A cuple I bet...
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Oct 14, 2006 - 10:21am PT
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Conrad,
thanks for the TR man!
You gave Stu Ruckman some beta for that back in the early 90's that helped us out a lot. It was a big dream proj for us that went smooth as silk, partially because of some info we received from you and others. One thing we did was blastoff at about 700 pm. I remember reading somewhere how you climb a little slower at night and the next evening as you are nearing the top its kind of inspirational to keep chuggin away before the sun sets again! Anyway, that strategy helped us FWIW.
Now at 45 I wish I were in that kind of shape. Thanks for the inspiration. Here is a shot nearing the top...
Gary
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ha-ha
climber
location
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Oct 14, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
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as a Little Cottonwood Canyon alumnus, George has always been my favorite climber of all time, hands down. humble and talented, with accomplishments that make your mind spin.
some teenage flash-in-the-pan sending a V10 boulder problem doesn't even faze me. but reading about the old-dads well into "why don't you just hang it up?" age doing routes that i hope to be strong enough to do someday, pure inspiration.
thanks george, grug, et al...keep on truckin'
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 31, 2007 - 10:55am PT
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Hey, since someone bumped this thread, I'll take the opportunity to relate a quick story that George told me last week. I asked him what the longest fall he ever took was. Well, he and were on a ridge on Mt Foraker when George fell through the cornice. George ended up going about 120 feet. He thought he was dead for sure. What saved him was the fact that his partner jumped 70 feet off the other side of the ridge. I wish I could recall the name of his partner. Pretty quick thinking and probably the only course of action that could have saved the two.
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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Jan 31, 2007 - 10:58am PT
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yo - that has to be one of the best posts i've seen on the web, ever, hands down...
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Michael Kennedy
Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
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Jan 31, 2007 - 12:19pm PT
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"Well, he and were on a ridge on Mt Foraker when George fell through the cornice. George ended up going about 120 feet. He thought he was dead for sure. What saved him was the fact that his partner jumped 70 feet off the other side of the ridge."
Yes, that was a real trouser-filler. It's the only time I've seen George at all shaken. We sat down for about 15 minutes and brewed up, which was all it took for him to get it completely back together. We got stuck lower down in a brief storm but made it the rest of the way without any other excitement.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 31, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
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You're the MAN Michael.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 31, 2007 - 01:48pm PT
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"What saved him was the fact that his partner jumped 70 feet off the other side of the ridge."
Just see, what an excellent partner.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 31, 2007 - 06:05pm PT
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Yes, that was a real trouser-filler...
...but made it the rest of the way without any other excitement.
Michael, I had to read your post twice...when I read it quickly the first time, I thought it said "...rest of the way without any other excrement." Ha-ha-ha-ha-ha.
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Michael Kennedy
Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
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Jan 31, 2007 - 07:23pm PT
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Actually, to say I jumped would be a bit of an exaggeration.
I was up the ridge a ways with a couple of coils of rope in my hand (we were moving together). George stopped, bent over, and probed what he thought might be a crevasse (I'd fallen into a crevasse that ran perpendicular to the ridge on Hunter two weeks before, so we were paranoid). Satisifed, he announced that it was just a narrow gap and proceeded to step gingerly across.
A nanosecond later a huge section of cornice broke off (we were at least 20 feet down from the edge, and George had just stepped over the fracture line). George and the cornice fell out of sight to the left, the coils of rope were ripped from my hand, and I found myself being dragged rapidly across the snow in a pendulum/fall down the right side of the ridge. Not a lot of time to panic, although I do recall a disconcerting sense of resignation as the force of the fall dragged me up towards the ridge. I stopped maybe 25 feet below the crest, convinced by the tension on the rope that George, while he still was tied in, was either dead or seriously injured.
I yelled (as did George) but neither of us could hear the other. By the time I got an anchor in, the rope had gone slack, so I pulled it in. It went slack again, so I kept pulling. George eventually clawed his way back to the ridge. He'd lost his ice axe (a 70 cm bamboo-shaft Chouinard/Frost Piolet, a real classic), so after a brew he put me on belay and I peered over the edge. It was stuck in the snow maybe 150 feet down. He lowered me to retrieve it (another trouser-filler as the slope was steep and incredibly exposed).
Probably way more detail than most people care for, but what the heck, it's a good story.
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Jan 31, 2007 - 10:09pm PT
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"whatshisname on N Face of N Twin" - Chris Jones, ex-patriot Englishman, author of “Climbing in North America” He still goes to JTree each spring with the geezers, Roper, Beck, Steck, etc.
George also did a one day ascent of the Nose with Alex in the late ‘90s.
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 31, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
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Are you kidding Michael? Can't wait to read your book too. The Inifinite Spur, etc.; Wow.
It's so great to read about George. What an unsung hero.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 31, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
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There was a scene in one of Gaston Rebuffat's movies, probably Entre Terre et Ciel (Between Heaven and Earth), where they demonstrate the ridge counterweight cannonball belay. They're traversing a horizontal snow ridge in the Alps, and one "falls" off one side. The other then jumps off the other side, and of course all is well. I saw Rebuffat speak, and present the movie, in 1971, just when I was starting to climb. So the details may not be quite right.
Nice to hear it works for real, though it's probably not something to try every day. I wonder if others have had to do it?
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L
climber
The City of Lost Angels
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Jan 31, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
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"Not a lot of time to panic, although I do recall a disconcerting sense of resignation as the force of the fall dragged me up towards the ridge."
Michael--Great story!!! I agree with Stich and Mimi--a wonderful piece of writing that's whet our appetites for more. And more. And more...
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Jan 31, 2007 - 11:32pm PT
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let me chime in and say that between Michael's story just above, and yo's post on the first page (I agree, Best Post Ever), this thread is a First-Ballot Hall of Famer. Such a talented bunch of folks I spend my cyber time tagging along with...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 12, 2007 - 11:12am PT
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The legend lives on...
George is airborne now, flying back over the mountains to home. Instead of rising at his usual 5:30 he slept in this morning.
Well deserved rest.
Yesterday he popped out to Zion to do a little climbing. We walked up to the base of the S face of Angel's Landing starting at noon and in a few hours I was at grips with the crux, a 30m pitch that Charlie and Chris and I had worked on last year.
The trouble was, although I took great care to put long slings on the pro, the rope drag on this horribly sinuous lead was murderous, past the hardest move I still ended up lowering off.
We pulled the rope and George gave it a go.
He began cleaning slings off some of the pro and using them to double the length of the slings on the pro he kept.
By risking some major rippers he cut down the drag and pulled it off, but at the final piece of pro he was slingless.
He constructed a "draw" out of a wired nut and two biners and, Bob's your uncle, he finished the pitch.
By the time we were seven pitches up we had only two hours of light left. I voted for descent but George had flown all the way out to free the Landing and, darn it, thats what he wanted.
How could I say no?
With five pitches left we got to work.
And pulled onto the summit with it getting dark enough to obscure the grafitti.
Our shoes were below but we weren't going to rap in the dark. Instead we did the four klicks back to the car in rock shoes.
The south side of Angels Landing is twice as wide as the concave north wall, but has less than half the number of routes. The topography is very complex and the "climate" far more bipolar than the N side.
The FFA by any route was made on the afternoon of 3/11/07.
Jeff was right.
If you want to get up something, go with George.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Mar 12, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Nice one Ron and George!
But you know that this is Supertaco so we expect a photo and a rating anyway.
Glad to hear there are adventures like that still out there for the more adventurous ones...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 12, 2007 - 11:44am PT
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We only took one photo yesterday, me on my failed attempt at the crux.
Its a grade III or IV 5.serious
Edit;
And I should have said this in my previous post.
Next year I will start my fifth decade of climbing.
Its been a great ride and I don't think I would trade it for anything. A life more ordinary, while likely offering less drama and tragedy, would not have enriched my spirit the way the life of adventure has.
And I have had incredible good fortune in getting to climb with some truly talented individuals. Indeed, I marvel at this great bit of luck.
Yet few indeed even approach the level of partnership one can feel when tied onto a rope with George. My confidence in his judgment, his perception, his intelligence, and his absolutely astounding climbing skill truly set him apart.
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Carolyn C
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 12, 2007 - 12:34pm PT
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Sounds like you had a great day Ron!
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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Mar 12, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
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finally, another climbing tr.
thanks.
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Cloudraker
Big Wall climber
BC
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Mar 12, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
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thanks for clearing that up yo
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2007 - 06:42pm PT
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Great thread, have to bump it above all the choss. Ron, ya gotta figure that camera out...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 12, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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We just didn't find time for hanging around for photos, but I wish I had taken one of George. To remain low key we dulled down his bright helmet by taping on the camo cover for my battle helmet.
It was like climbing with 'Frodo meets Stormin' Norman'! lol
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 12, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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Well...if this ain't the goddammest thread ever.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Mar 13, 2007 - 02:17am PT
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Georgr Lowe is not very impressive, in my opinion.
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joane
climber
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Mar 13, 2007 - 11:50am PT
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The plan to counteract this kind of cornice fall as they say by falling on opposite side of a fall on a cornice was something I was told about when I first started climbing-- on a traverse from the Aig du Midi towards Aig du Plan.
Another piece of alpine experience was passed on while following a couple of other brave and independent and unguided climbers going back-- it was pointed out by my high mountain guide that they were too high up the cornice and how that situation could develop. I mention it because it's by bits and pieces in situations like this one being discussed that complement what you learn in doing it yourself. The experience of climbers who have the benefit of being around for a while as I read in this thread is invaluable, (it does help to know about what they did in a bit of bio info because it's not always common knowledge, so thanks!).
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 14, 2007 - 12:32am PT
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Nice thread. Thanks all,
Z
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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why is this thread back, you ask?
Only because I believe it includes the greatest post in the history of the SuperTacto....
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=170191&msg=170370#msg170370
All hail yo.
And all stop the mindless partisan bickering over Governor Palin's per diem claims, and everything else. Let's have some mindful partisan bickering over health care policy, foreign policy and energy policy.
Enjoy your lunches before I come eat 'em.
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perswig
climber
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"All hail yo."
Amen, brother.
Bump.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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No foolin'!!!
yo nailed it with that cut up.
I pasted the link into the supertopo hall of fame thread.
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salad
climber
Escondido
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rad!
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marky
climber
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my favorite Lowe lines:
Kennedy-Lowe, Mt Hunter, Alaska
Infinite Spur, Mt Foraker, Alaska
Free Korea Peak
Jones-Lowe, North Twin
and our humble Sun Ribbon Arete, in winter.
I've been on exactly one of these, and have spotted two others.
I've masturbated to the rest.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 10, 2008 - 12:26am PT
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George and Bridwell are both 64.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Sep 10, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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BUMP!
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Gene
climber
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Feb 25, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
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Bump for Lowe genealogy by Yo. One of the best of all time.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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bump for awesome thread - keep it above the choss
TC
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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Mar 31, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
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Substance before show.
The routes he visited are fantastic. He worked hard for them, but kept the adventure ahead of the accomplishment.
Bump
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Mar 31, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
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Yeah,Grug
I turned 54 this year and it is truly amazing to see these senior guys still pumping out hard free big wall climbs. It's kind-a what keeps me going, that and the fact that I don't want to admit I'm getting too old.
Bruce.
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couchmaster
climber
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Mar 31, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
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Grrrrreat thread! Speaking of good lines:
Piton Ron said Next year I will start my fifth decade of climbing. Its been a great ride and I don't think I would trade it for anything. A life more ordinary, while likely offering less drama and tragedy, would not have enriched my spirit the way the life of adventure has. And I have had incredible good fortune in getting to climb with some truly talented individuals. Indeed, I marvel at this great bit of luck.
That's gonna be a top notch tombstone epitaph for someone someday.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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That piece by Yo is priceless! Loved every minute of it even if some of the pics are gone now.
I remember meeting George Lowe at the Cookie back in the '70s. We were racking up for something when some guy comes running down the road toward us. "George Lowe is coming! It's George Lowe!" Now, I knew the name but did not quite understand why he needed to be announced by minions. Anyway, he stopped, we chatted and then he walked to his car.
As for Alex( not related) Lowe... I had the pleasure of hiking and climbing with him a few times in Bozeman, Montana. A gentleman through and through. And I remember thinking his legs were thinner than my forearms but he could power up trails like someone was yardin' him along a rope tow. A nice man and a powerhouse in the mountains.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Yep. Yo's post may be the funniest I've read here at ST.
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TYeary
climber
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I don't know, Jeff.
George's done pretty good fer a guy who's first climb was the Tough at Big Rock. Jeez, can that be right?
Tony
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