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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 01:14am PT
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You just need to find a like-minded partner who has a car.
That would make everything so much easier. Same with like-minded partners for alpinism. Until then I might as well keep trying to getting better and continue asking around. I've been meeting a lot of great friends along the way!
2) work on endurance rather than strength, you probably have plenty of strength you just need to be able to apply it over a long period, OW is usually something that takes place over a longish period of time compared to other climbing
One reason I've come to love offwidths! Climbing one leaves me feeling tired from head to toe more like I am after a good long run, swim, or bike ride. That is also one reason I'm unsure about how to approach a weight training program for it since it is more about endurance and there isn't anything I can think of that works the body in a similar way over a long period (except the coarse sandpaper idea). At the very least maybe just some regular stimulation via some reps or static lockoffs would leave my body better able to engage those muscles and not be as worked after using them?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 13, 2011 - 01:23am PT
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the greatest criticism of cross training I've heard:
"it's two sports you can get hurt in"
there's wisdom there...
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Dec 13, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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Let me know if you ever need a partner for cracks at Bay Area gyms or in the hills. I have A CAR.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 13, 2011 - 02:50am PT
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Lots of people have a natural resistance to OW- no training required.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Dec 13, 2011 - 03:46am PT
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climb lots of awe fwits,
till uoy,
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frisbee
climber
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Winter training BUMP
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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I've used a TRX for years -- you can use it pretty much anywhere and it doesn't lock you into any particular set of exercises -- you are only limited by your imagination. (I'll probably regret writing that, eh?!) ;D
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Speaking as a non-skilled OW climber but as a runner/climber/Crossfitter - Mark, avoid focusing on single muscle groups. If all you do is lots of bicep curls you will only get stronger at doing bicep curls.
Lots of great advice on here and endurance seems to be the thing to focus on the most. You will not be making dynamic, short burst power moves. Did you get to see the Reel Rock Tour movie "Wide Boys"? Two British climbers trained HARD to come to the US and claim the gnarly FA of Century Crack. They made an artificial OW roof crack to train on, brutal stuff.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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We have an adjustable, slightly overhanging crack at the gym from 1/2" to about 8" or so here in Fresno. For a brief period, I really worked on my cardio and bouldered up the OW above where it starts to go overhanging and did timed static holds on each side. I would alternate between chicken wings, arm bars, and gastones. I would also do planks for time, facing down and side to side. I did notice an improvement in my OW climbing.
Good luck!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Endurance, endurance, endurance!
Far too many people spend far too much time working for max power when they don't have the endurance base to support it.
(says the 56 year old guy who just climbed two El Cap grade IVs and a grade V back to back to back.)
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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I didn't see any mention of pull-ups.
Here's a pushup variant. Put each hand on one of those big balls, put your feet on a bench. Push away.
After practicing, swap the bench for a ball. My balls are much harder than this guy's i.e. they don't collapse. Spread your fingers wide. If your wrist starts hurting, take a break.
Don't forget balance. Take a dumbell. Turn it vertically. Stand on top of it on one leg. Do curls, presses etc. Can also use one of those half balls.
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frisbee
climber
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Put each hand on one of those big balls My balls are much harder than this guy's i.e. they don't collapse.
hee hee
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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so PellucidWombat what did you do and how did it work out?
the OP was two years ago...
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Good call Dr. Hartouni.
Time passes slowly up here in the mountains
We sit beside bridges and walk beside fountains
Catch the wild fishes that float through the stream
Time passes slowly when you're lost in a dream
-Margaret Runyan Castaneda
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frisbee
climber
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Girlfriends are good training for OW??
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 14, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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the OP was two years ago... one year ago. ("Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2011")
Mark must have been in fairly good shape if he could keep up with Steph in the Tetons in September....
Not sure how well that translates to ow, but probably it's good core shape.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Boulder. A lot.
Front Levers.
Leg Lifts.
Sit ups.
Some curls.
Some benchpress.
Finger strength exercises.
Boulder more.
Bike around town.
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