OW Resistance Training Exercises

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 44 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 01:14am PT
You just need to find a like-minded partner who has a car.

That would make everything so much easier. Same with like-minded partners for alpinism. Until then I might as well keep trying to getting better and continue asking around. I've been meeting a lot of great friends along the way!

2) work on endurance rather than strength, you probably have plenty of strength you just need to be able to apply it over a long period, OW is usually something that takes place over a longish period of time compared to other climbing

One reason I've come to love offwidths! Climbing one leaves me feeling tired from head to toe more like I am after a good long run, swim, or bike ride. That is also one reason I'm unsure about how to approach a weight training program for it since it is more about endurance and there isn't anything I can think of that works the body in a similar way over a long period (except the coarse sandpaper idea). At the very least maybe just some regular stimulation via some reps or static lockoffs would leave my body better able to engage those muscles and not be as worked after using them?
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Dec 13, 2011 - 01:21am PT
Unfortunately I'm afraid of Crossfit. So many of the exercises they do look like they'd damage my left knee

Prolly damage the left nut, too.

Edit: BTW, I'm often up for a trip to PG SF for crack & OW practice -- especially as winter sets on. On occasion, I might be up for Generator Crack practice.

Kent
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 13, 2011 - 01:23am PT
the greatest criticism of cross training I've heard:

"it's two sports you can get hurt in"

there's wisdom there...
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Dec 13, 2011 - 01:43am PT
Let me know if you ever need a partner for cracks at Bay Area gyms or in the hills. I have A CAR.

Credit: murcy
Johnny K.

climber
Dec 13, 2011 - 01:45am PT
How about making your own OW woody at home? An adjustable frame for various widths etc

http://hotaches.blogspot.com/2011/09/wide-boyz-crazy-new-climbing-film-due.html

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 13, 2011 - 02:50am PT
Lots of people have a natural resistance to OW- no training required.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Dec 13, 2011 - 03:46am PT
climb lots of awe fwits,
till uoy,

Credit: Norwegian
frisbee

climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
Winter training BUMP
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
I've used a TRX for years -- you can use it pretty much anywhere and it doesn't lock you into any particular set of exercises -- you are only limited by your imagination. (I'll probably regret writing that, eh?!) ;D
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
Speaking as a non-skilled OW climber but as a runner/climber/Crossfitter - Mark, avoid focusing on single muscle groups. If all you do is lots of bicep curls you will only get stronger at doing bicep curls.

Lots of great advice on here and endurance seems to be the thing to focus on the most. You will not be making dynamic, short burst power moves. Did you get to see the Reel Rock Tour movie "Wide Boys"? Two British climbers trained HARD to come to the US and claim the gnarly FA of Century Crack. They made an artificial OW roof crack to train on, brutal stuff.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
We have an adjustable, slightly overhanging crack at the gym from 1/2" to about 8" or so here in Fresno. For a brief period, I really worked on my cardio and bouldered up the OW above where it starts to go overhanging and did timed static holds on each side. I would alternate between chicken wings, arm bars, and gastones. I would also do planks for time, facing down and side to side. I did notice an improvement in my OW climbing.

Good luck!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
Endurance, endurance, endurance!

Far too many people spend far too much time working for max power when they don't have the endurance base to support it.

(says the 56 year old guy who just climbed two El Cap grade IVs and a grade V back to back to back.)
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
I didn't see any mention of pull-ups.

Here's a pushup variant. Put each hand on one of those big balls, put your feet on a bench. Push away.

After practicing, swap the bench for a ball. My balls are much harder than this guy's i.e. they don't collapse. Spread your fingers wide. If your wrist starts hurting, take a break.

Don't forget balance. Take a dumbell. Turn it vertically. Stand on top of it on one leg. Do curls, presses etc. Can also use one of those half balls.





frisbee

climber
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Dec 4, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
Put each hand on one of those big balls
My balls are much harder than this guy's i.e. they don't collapse.

hee hee
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Not about training, but technique:
http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/how-to-climb-offwidths-101/
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
so PellucidWombat what did you do and how did it work out?
the OP was two years ago...
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Good call Dr. Hartouni.


Time passes slowly up here in the mountains
We sit beside bridges and walk beside fountains
Catch the wild fishes that float through the stream
Time passes slowly when you're lost in a dream

-Margaret Runyan Castaneda




The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
I've been thinking on this lately...

For some OW and squeeze muscles, seems like some weird crab walking on knee & elbow / palm might satisfy both the resistance and coordination / endurance components.

If you see me crawling like a Gila Monster across the gym floor, you'll know why.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 5, 2012 - 12:02am PT
Jesus Christ...delete this stupid thread and go find a girlfriend.

F*#k...
frisbee

climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:12am PT
Girlfriends are good training for OW??
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