Bomber Pro: I'll show you mine, if you show me yours...

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Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2011 - 12:52am PT
Bomber pro...anyone know the climb it's on?
Bomber pro...anyone know the climb it's on?
Credit: Joe
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 12, 2011 - 12:58am PT
That is über cool!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 12, 2011 - 12:58am PT
no, but would love to know the location!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:04am PT
Bring it bishes!
Credit: Reilly
apogee

climber
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:10am PT
Wild-ass guess: Judging by the choss, the moss, and the (relative) proximity to Dinney-land....my guess is somewhere around Malibu Creek...
Tim Camuti

Trad climber
CA
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:18am PT
One of the strongest toprope anchors I will ever see. Right next to th...
One of the strongest toprope anchors I will ever see. Right next to the other strongest one...
Credit: Tim Camuti

Truly bomber.
This is at a crag where Salamanizer also drilled in an old lost arrow piton as a hanger on a desperate route. Sorry I don't have a picture of that...
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:37am PT
A Wog-Wog in situ.  We don't need no stinkin' cams!
A Wog-Wog in situ. We don't need no stinkin' cams!
Credit: rgold
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:05am PT
Fall on that, I dare you.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:32am PT
Pinnacles!!!!!

Bomber bolts on Premeditated - Pinnacles National Monument
Bomber bolts on Premeditated - Pinnacles National Monument
Credit: j-tree
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Dec 12, 2011 - 09:37am PT
I won't cheat since I talked to Joe about it last night.

But Munge, you and I and Dennis have been there together (we did all of the climbs in this sub-area during October 18 and 19, 1997). Funny thing is I had no memory of this little piece of humor either.

Edit: Actually I think you were there on the 18th, which is the day we did this route.
part-time communist

climber
Dec 12, 2011 - 09:59am PT
Eh. I'll throw in some canyoneering anchors for good measure.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#229083

photo not found
Missing photo ID#229085

photo not found
Missing photo ID#229086

If you want to become really good at building anchors, especially in utilizing natural features, start doing canyon first descents.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 12, 2011 - 11:22am PT
Weld_It supervising a mountain rescue. Probably in the Himalayas.
Weld_It supervising a mountain rescue. Probably in the Himalayas.
Credit: Ghost

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 12, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
Fall on that, I dare you.

Didn't fall on it, but before removing it, out of curiousity, it was viciously bounce-tested, using big jumps and a totally static sling. That thing is definitely bomber.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Dec 12, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
RGold I would not doubt it was bomber.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#131002
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 12, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
I bootied this out of Tobin's Dihedral at Dome Rock. It's made of fairly low grade aluminum and the assembly quality is very poor.

Mystery cam...
Mystery cam...
Credit: Ksolem

It has the word "Gulag" and a logo on the stem.

Logo on mystery cam
Logo on mystery cam
Credit: Ksolem

It was tied off with a small loop of tat and a biner, kind of looked like someone bailed off it. Scary.

HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
It was tied off with a small loop of tat and a biner, kind of looked like someone bailed off it. Scary.
You wouldn't leave a good piece behind, would you?
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
"You wouldn't leave a good piece behind, would you?"

There should probably be at least a 50% chance that it might not fail
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 12, 2011 - 03:27pm PT

The angle of pull on this rappel looked as if it would have been torquing the nut as the wire was pulled across the direction of the crack. I wonder if the climbers shoved that rock in the crack in hopes it would keep the nut in? For the record, I did not rapp off this.




Are drilled angles really better than bolts in cruddy sandstone? I wonder if I should have at least tied this one off short to protect the crux tower move?


At least the drilled angle inspired some confidence. The star bolt and aluminum hanger on the left seemed suspect.
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
the best of the tat from the same route, the rest crumbled in our fing...
the best of the tat from the same route, the rest crumbled in our fingers...
Credit: Joe
Shiho

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Dec 12, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
Credit: Shiho

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Dec 12, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
This one felt good enough to take a picture of.
This one felt good enough to take a picture of.
Credit: mucci

somebody needs to throw up a pick of the garbage can handle pro on that pinnacles classic "Twinkle toes traverse"
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 12, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
LMAO. That looks like a large thumb tack driven through the LA piton.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Dec 12, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
^ I *saw* it the exact same way! hahah
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
Credit: Joe
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 12, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
Brad, it's not ringing any bells, or opening any bottles for that matter.


Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 12, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
Prairie Home Companion?
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Dec 12, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
Pinnacles. West Side. Classic but little visited routes.

Edit: we were posting at the same time. Close, very close.
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 10:58am PT
Credit: Joe

maybe this isn't a popular route...any guesses?
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 13, 2011 - 11:55am PT
the most famous placement in southern Washington/northern Oregon! On the SE corner route of Beacon Rock.
http://vimeo.com/32887266
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Dec 13, 2011 - 11:58am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/984383/Chuck-Grossman-Master-of-Strings-and-Stacks
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130997
crunch

Social climber
CO
Dec 13, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
Bomber! At least for a year or two....
Bomber! At least for a year or two....
Credit: crunch
strangeday

Trad climber
Brea ca.
Dec 13, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 13, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
Credit: Joe
Jack Holmgren style bolts, with the epoxy?
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
bingo Clint! we have a winner...

have you been on this route? I'm wondering how many ascents it has seen...
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
Dec 13, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
How about this for a rap anchor?

Rap anchor for the waterfall dome, Left Tit Pit Cave, West Virginia
Rap anchor for the waterfall dome, Left Tit Pit Cave, West Virginia
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Dec 13, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
The sort of thing that instills confidence.

Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Dec 13, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
I had forgotten the trash can lid handle on Twinkle Toes. Thanks for refreshing my memory!
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Dec 14, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
Credit: jfailing
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Dec 14, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
According to my friend any pro on the Fisher Towers is scary...
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 14, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
We have a winner, thanks to Philo's resurrection:

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 14, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
Damn... this one was just no good...

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Dec 14, 2011 - 05:20pm PT

Hell, I got a pic of a 4 nut stack I can TELL you was bomber ;)
George R

climber
The Gray Area
Dec 14, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
That garage door handle looks like "Twinkle Toes Traverse" at the Pinnacles. My very first lead, BITD! The regular bolt hanger wasn't there then, I just slung the handle and kept climbing.

G
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Dec 15, 2011 - 10:44am PT
Is that Paul Ross? Never met him, but I know people that know him and I've seen some pics of some of his "routes". That guy could climb an overhanging junk yard....oh yeah, he has :-)
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Dec 15, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
Jurassic or Cretaceous?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 15, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
Anchor bolt on Glass Ocean in Big Cottonwood Canyon.  Placed in 1988. ...
Anchor bolt on Glass Ocean in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Placed in 1988. Replaced in 2006.
Credit: Brian in SLC

USHBA sphincter wood
USHBA sphincter wood
Credit: Brian in SLC
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 15, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
Repost, but I haven't uploaded pics yet of recent adventures.

This held two 40-50 foot sliders (one for each of us), and then was used as a rap anchor. The pic was taken before the second slider and rap:


I think it was even a self-cleaning anchor, just a little rope flip to get the nut back!
jeff_m

Social climber
700' up
Dec 15, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
A climbing-relevant thread? How anti-social...

photo not found
Missing photo ID#229699

photo not found
Missing photo ID#229700

photo not found
Missing photo ID#229701
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 15, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
anyone have pics of the rap anchors off hummingbird spire - or really any of the bridgers? hoo boy
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 19, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
Jeff_m,

that last one from Red Rocks? Near Panty Wall, just up and left, before I think someone got out there and revamped the anchors?
NDF

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
Worked for the railroad 50 years ago, should still be good.
Credit: NDF
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Dec 20, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
Yep Joe, I remember that bolt hanger!

Jack rated the route .11c, hardest in-stance at the Pinns, I believe.
schaffner

Trad climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
aid climbing
aid climbing
Credit: schaffner
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:42pm PT




Captain...or Skully

climber
Asgard or bust
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
"Bomber" is in the eye of the beholder, as always.
Pick well, ok? Wouldja?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
This will work in a pinch...

Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
^^^^
Me WANTS, Todd!








I've used this technique a few times at Devils Punchbowl.
Made my sphincter pucker up as almost the whole climb is protected that way.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
Always a favorite..

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
Bomb making

Captain...or Skully

climber
Asgard or bust
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
Hey Todd......That's a lotta hangers......You ARE hangin' them on the Goods, right?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
I'd go on it....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
perswig

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:14pm PT


We elected to add the red and yellow web; somehow the cord wasn't inspiring.
Dale
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
it's just the sheath...the core is good....don't be so paranoid...

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
Totally bombproof.....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
sport climber's special..

tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
Todd,

Are those beaks aluminum?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
Bomber and ...organized too....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
They are sort of beack-stoppers-hooks-pitons.....a 4-in-one unit;.......made in Bridwell's garage by the master machine-head himself...
.........
Captain...or Skully

climber
Asgard or bust
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
Stainless, maybe? Curious, is all.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
Bomber........(They held Big Al didn't they...)...

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
There's really an economy of scale to Todd's "bomber" pro.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
Tied off Gumby....bomber...

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
Those KBs are bomber.....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
belaying off of one bolt....(a homemade hanger too...).....bomber......



Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
rebar...bomber...(it's backed up with that pin too....)....

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
Captain...or Skully

climber
Asgard or bust
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
Uh oh. Todd's on a roll.
Go, Todd!!!!!6!!!!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
Fully bomber...

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
Bomber! ^^^^

edit: the literal bomb, i.e. grenade, I meant
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
It ain't gonna fall over...it's bomber...

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
That thing is the climbing question mark.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
Oleanano

Mountain climber
Milano - Italy
Dec 21, 2011 - 01:52am PT
A small contribute from Italy. Pictures of Bomber Pro pieces from Formica route on the Medale wall - Lecco area - Northern Italy. It's an old aid climbing route from years 70.ies. Enjoy!
Credit: Oleanano
Credit: Oleanano
Credit: Oleanano
Credit: Oleanano
Credit: Oleanano
Credit: Oleanano
Credit: Oleanano
Credit: Oleanano
domngo

climber
Canada
Dec 21, 2011 - 02:01am PT
Credit: domngo

Credit: domngo
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Dec 21, 2011 - 02:10am PT
Credit: laughingman


Not mine but some dudes on the Great sail peak got caught up in this A3ish copperhead seam.

looks like grand fun...
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Dec 21, 2011 - 10:21am PT
Any port in a storm, eh?

DMT
BillL

Trad climber
NM
Dec 21, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
Courtesy of Anonymous
Courtesy of Anonymous
Credit: BillL
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 21, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
Bacon pro!
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
hahaha

awesome
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Dec 31, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
Credit: Jay Wood
Credit: Jay Wood
Credit: Jay Wood
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 31, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
Jay! No way! did you actually use that? (the cam hooks)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 31, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
This rig was about 40 feet west of the Jardine Corner on the Nose. Someone must have rapped off somewhere on the traverse to Camp IV, couldn't find any anchor and placed and used this. Dolt Tower is a bit down and to the right.

Credit: Mark Hudon
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
vinales mank
vinales mank
Credit: Joe
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Jan 10, 2012 - 02:05am PT
Credit: Nate D
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 10, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
Mmmm... bacon! That had me howling out loud!

And a bunch of pics here give me that little pain in my chest just like the moment before weighting something that I'd rather not.

Here's another oldie but goodie:


And here's what you see from the stance (usually I'm not there):
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 11, 2012 - 12:35am PT
Urk! I think I threw up a little.
Grampa

Trad climber
OC in So Cal
Jan 16, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
I love a good pin!
Bomber!!!
Bomber!!!
Credit: Grampa
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jan 16, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
domngo

climber
Canada
Jul 28, 2012 - 08:20am PT
Credit: domngo
tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
Jul 28, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
FA with my buddy NateD
FA with my buddy NateD
Credit: tiki-jer
A Fine Day!!
FA...Same route, lower down.
FA...Same route, lower down.
Credit: tiki-jer
Grampa

Trad climber
OC in So Cal
Jul 28, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
Domngo,

That bolt hanger, the only way I can imagine breaking that hanger would be a rock fall.

Any details???
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 28, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
Rap anchor

Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Here's an anchor - none. Bottomless depth hoar. Do pickets work? - no. Deadmen? - no. The plan that if one of us fell off one side, the other would jump off the to the other side.

Breakable crust <br/>
Bottomless depth hoar <br/>
No ice <br/>
Nothing solid <br/>
No ...
Breakable crust
Bottomless depth hoar
No ice
Nothing solid
No protection
No belays
Summit of Peak 10,370
Mount Huntington in the background.
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Bay Area , California
Jul 29, 2012 - 03:39am PT
[/url]



domngo

climber
Canada
Jul 29, 2012 - 09:49am PT
Grampa - that photo was taken in April on the south peak east face at Seneca just as you near the top. Unfortunately I'm not sure about the details let alone which route its from, but as its kinda loose up there I wouldn't rule rockfall out.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Aug 1, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
Big ol' 1/2-inch steel rods with eyelets drilled into soft sandstone for rap anchors - Wadi Rum, Jordan (March 2012)

My Bedouin rock-climbing guide setting up a rappel
My Bedouin rock-climbing guide setting up a rappel
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
surely this will hold a fall...Northwest Buttress, Lembert Dome...
surely this will hold a fall...Northwest Buttress, Lembert Dome...
Credit: Joe
bullfrog

Trad climber
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:28am PT
I always liked this one:

Credit: bullfrog





It's cool though because the climbing is easy and you can back it up:


Credit: bullfrog
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:32am PT
^Pinnacles! Old Original
bullfrog

Trad climber
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:35am PT
^^Right area but wrong climb. Twinkle Toes Traverse. Old Original starts on the opposite side of the formation.
ELM !

climber
Near Boston
Aug 6, 2012 - 08:37am PT
Someone knows where this one is.
Someone knows where this one is.
Credit: ELM !
Grampa

climber
from SoCal
Aug 21, 2012 - 12:45am PT
Tahquitz Rock Pro, kinda hard to clip in....
Credit: Grampa
jeff_m

Social climber
700' up
Aug 21, 2012 - 12:54am PT
3/16" aluminum and the biner don't fit...

photo not found
Missing photo ID#259931
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Aug 21, 2012 - 01:10am PT
Chief, that last one is a beeyoot!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Dec 26, 2015 - 11:43pm PT
Credit: thebravecowboy

upward driven pins are generally amusing. generally.
i think nutjob won the thread though with that sheared-off rusty stub
Messages 1 - 121 of total 121 in this topic
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