3 girls, 38 days on Trango and a new route equals pure inspi

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e9climbing.blogspot.com

Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 11, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
Just super cool and super inspiring to read this story from the Ukraine/Russina girls who established a new route on Trango. For sure some fly under the radar that said they deserve no less credit!

http://russianclimb.com/trango_girls.html

I lift my hat!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 11, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
Awesome achievement! I just threw my hat in the air.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 11, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
Wow!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Dec 11, 2011 - 12:42pm PT
Three HOT climbing chicks
Well done ladies on one of the biggest baddest walls on the planet.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 11, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
RC: How much down gear did you have on the wall?

Girls: We had one down jacket. One down vest. And one down blanket for all three of us. But it was hard in 10-days bad weather upper than 5500 m... no visibility, no sun, depressive mood...

RC: How much cognac did you have?

Girls: Pity, but we took few: and drank during first 2 weeks...

RC: Did you have cosmetics with you on the route?

Girls: We had one cosmetics kit for all of us. - 5 kg :) - creams, masks, etc.



Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!! Proud ascent, like two El Caps stacked on top of each other. Looks like horrific slabby hauling up the first bastion.

Next time, girls - bring more down and cognac, and maybe less cosmetics.

If you ever want to try a warm wall, come to Yosemite and we'll talk.
Prod

Trad climber
Dec 11, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
VI+, 7b, б3

Someone wanna translate this?

VI+ = a long time
7b = 5.14?
63 = ?

Thanks

Prod.
e9climbing.blogspot.com

Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
VI+ is over all serious grading

7b should be about 5.12B

the last thing might be a Russian thing and I think it is wrong it should be 6B, not 63, 6b is a form of Russian Big Wall grade
Prod

Trad climber
Dec 11, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
Thanks,

Did they free or is the 63/ 6b an aid rating? If what does that translate to?

Prod.

PS. Awesome TR to the girls!
pc

climber
Dec 11, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
Great! Kick Azz.
e9climbing.blogspot.com

Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
I'm not that familiar with the russian grading for big walls. But I guess it was free at 7b as no Aid grade was given.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Dec 11, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
looks like a lot of water to be found on that thing, otherwise how the hell do you haul 38 days of water? food? i once read that after 30 plus days on a wall a dude was covered with body cheese, how awful for girls who have different "hardware". gawd damn, 38 days?!?!
WBraun

climber
Dec 11, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
Who cares what ever the rating is

They're tough and climbed that monster.

Yikes !!!! is that thing big and gnarly ......
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
Dec 11, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
This is so inspiring - Always wanted to climb there - must remember to bring my makeup.

steve
e9climbing.blogspot.com

Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
Its an outstanding feat no matter what the grade is. Just to se other teams come and go must be so hard on the brain. You need lots of will and power to hang in there.
go-B

climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
Dec 11, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
Awesome, high altitude dancing with the stars, Marina Kopteva, Anna Yasinskaya, and Galina Chibitok, doing Da Tango with Da Trango!
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 11, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
Amazing!

That looks like a class A route by a hardcore team.

Look what you can do if you aren't spending every moment on Supertopo...

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 11, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
Look what you can do if you aren't spending every moment on Supertopo...
best quote ever
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
Dec 11, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
That is some adventure! Mahalo for posting up that would be MFPU!

Aloha,
will
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 11, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
Way cool, ladies! That route goes on and on and on!
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Dec 11, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
Real big wall climbing...

Valley bums take notice...

The big wall universe is not just Yosemite there are lots of places to big wall climb...


Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Dec 11, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
Excellent TR - thanks for sharing this. Cool climb.
MH2

climber
Dec 11, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
Thanks for this and the other, e9 Euro-trashguy! Feels like you've blown a few cobwebs off the old place.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Dec 11, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
Awesome job, the real deal!!!!!
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Dec 11, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
Love this post, hardcore Russian women take their place in climbing history. Yowza!
john hansen

climber
Dec 11, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
What.. Nohea.. you make one new word.. MFPU..

Aloha
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Dec 11, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
Great TR-that's a huge endeavor, nice job ladies!
Double D

climber
Dec 11, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
Now that's impressive boys and girls.
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:50am PT
I take the cosmetics comment to be a joke? No

I guess I'm slow
Nice show. Almost on a par with Lynn's ascent of the nose IMHO. Standard breaking.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 12, 2011 - 04:21am PT
Love the massive exfoliation to the right of camp 7.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Dec 12, 2011 - 10:59am PT
Jesus that was a sketchy jump.
e9climbing.blogspot.com

Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 11:44am PT
I think some French or Russin jumped it with a wingsuite but not sure.
Jim Clipper

Social climber
forests to tree farms
Dec 12, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
Money can't buy that look, that style in the 6th picture.

Russian business women bump!
Aerili

climber
Reno, NV
Dec 13, 2011 - 12:10am PT
This was an awesome link; thanks! These women are amazing.


Valley bums take notice...

The big wall universe is not just Yosemite there are lots of places to big wall climb...
For sure! I was certainly thinking that when I saw some of those pics. Just makes El Cap look...way less formidable.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Dec 13, 2011 - 12:24am PT






Way out there. What an achievement.

40+ pitches, at altitude in full conditions, drinking Listerine to boot.
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Dec 13, 2011 - 01:18am PT
Found the video of the Russians climbing the North Face of the Jannu these guys (and gals) are super hard core.

http://vimeo.com/12483150
Anejo

Ice climber
Yukon
Dec 13, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
More info and beta/in russian/.Pictures as well.Impressive,http://www.risk.ru/users/robinsya/18677/
e9climbing.blogspot.com

Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
Wow that link is just unreal!!!!

My bet they will get a Piolet dO'r nomination for this one at least I hope they do!

More info and beta/in russian/.Pictures as well.Impressive,http://www.risk.ru/users/robinsya/18677/
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 13, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
Boy, er, I mean, girl, that weren't no kolbasa roast now was it?
BAD YAGODITSI! (to use the polite version)
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Dec 13, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
Good job ladies. Proud!

Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Dec 13, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
wow, how I wish I wasn't at work right now...sigh.

but TRs like this one make it a lil' more bearable.

props!
skywalker

climber
Dec 13, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
Bump!!! Been watchin' it pop up and its a super cool achievement!


Cheers!

S...
bkalaska

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
Those are some bad ass women! Too bad they are promoting themselves / being promoted as girls.
noriko nakagawa

Trad climber
bishop, ca
Dec 20, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
Quite an accomplishment! Thanks for sharing.
Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
Way Burly.
russellg

Sport climber
Malibu, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
Awesome send! Inspiring! Get after it!

Malibu real estate
Stefan Jacobsen

Trad climber
Danmark
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
According to the russian text the grade is: 6B (VI +, 7b, A3).
I think the 63 was a typing error.
Google does a great job translating from russian.
chiindi

Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
Lotta Estrogen at work!
vlani

Trad climber
mountain view, ca
Dec 20, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
As the grades go:
(VI+, 7b, б3), or 6B Russian grade -
VI+ - must be UIAA rating, pretty meaningless. Means something like 5.8 or harder.
7b - french free-climbing grade, 5.12c-d, and this might be a wild guess on their side, or so I think. From what I read none in the team can free climb that hard, forget alpine conditions.
б3(first character is cyrilic 'b') - it was A3, a typo. May or may not be true, Russians interpret A grades somewhat differently.
6B Russian grade - means it was at least as hard as, say, Half Dome regular route. 6B is a super-grade, everything harder than certain level gets that label.
Given the speed of accent it was probably 95% aid.

Most amazing thing to me is what they had originally planned and committed to spend more that a months on the wall.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 20, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
Rad!
rodermck

Social climber
san jose ca.
Dec 20, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
soooooooo!!.. baaaaaad!!..ass!!!.. congradulations !!!..
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 20, 2011 - 11:51pm PT
bump for tuff girls!
Yaro

Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
Dec 27, 2011 - 02:12am PT
By the way, in the summer of 2010 this trio climbed Amin Brakk via Chezh Express.

Their trip report (in russian):

http://www.risk.ru/users/kopteva/13317/
http://www.risk.ru/users/kopteva/13379/

bmacd

Mountain climber
100% Canadian
Dec 27, 2011 - 02:34am PT
I guess that this means man yoga is for pussies
e9climbing.blogspot.com

Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2012 - 03:25am PT
Bumping this one as the girls won a Russina Piolet D Or fro this feat and posted a cool video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWWJ_7B2QTI
bmacd

Boulder climber
100% Canadian
Feb 21, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
great video !
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Dec 31, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
holy shit!!!!


That mountain is mega!!!

nice sendů big send
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 31, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
Orangest granite on the planet !
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Dec 31, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
Many everything up to camp 3 looks like avalanche country

Dunno, doesn't look like the smartest line. Look at camp 2!!!!!!!!!

But the line above camp 3 is SWEET

And the snowy weather in their climbing photos is significantly different from the sunny weather photo shown on the topo!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 31, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Super job!
Leggs

Sport climber
Home away from Home
Jan 2, 2013 - 11:36am PT
Amazing!

That looks like a class A route by a hardcore team.

Look what you can do if you aren't spending every moment on Supertopo...



{yep.}

Bump.


:)
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Jan 2, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Any of them single?
Messages 1 - 61 of total 61 in this topic
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