yosemite ice?

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bearbnz

Trad climber
East Side, California
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
Here is some ice on the eastern edge of the park off the Dana Plateau. Has it been climbed? Does it have a route name? It is just climber's left of Cocaine Chute, which is on the right edge of the photo. I didn't really get close enough to get a realistic idea of the quality or attractiveness... The photo is from 2012.


Not in the Park, but very close...
Not in the Park, but very close...
Credit: bearbnz

Nothing to do with ice, but here is an aerial photo of the 3rd Pillar on Dana.

Credit: bearbnz
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:22am PT
That's a cool photo of Third Pillar!


Where is the pull out that people use to access widow's tears? Would be nice to go look at it some time up close.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:00am PT
You can park pretty much right below it in a pullout on the river side, if it's plowed or dry.

Probably want to stay out of the open talus and under the forest canopy on the way up. Be prepared to wallow.

If you really want to see it well, you'll need crampons and an axe to third class up the slabs into the bowl, maybe a rope to rap back down with.

The view from inside the Tears Amphitheater is out of this world, and nearly never seen by anyone.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:17am PT
The view from inside the Tears Amphitheater is out of this world

How can I get there? Is there directions online or something?

PS: sorry if it seems like a dumb question. I have not been climbing for too long and the Valley still has MANY areas I need to visit. Been only to a few..
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:20am PT
there are some possible lines to the south of the Dana couloir. anybody ever done those?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:44am PT
The pullout is 1/2 mile below the Inspiration Point end of The Wawona Tunnel. When you look up to your right at the Valley view parking lot at the tunnel exit you'll see The Silver Strand dropping off the rim. East of that about 1000 ft, you'll see a recess in the wall btw 2 buttresses - The Widow's Tears Amphitheater, or as it's known on some maps, The Stanford Point Gully. You can't see the ice climb from there.

You can look up to see the falls inside the Amphitheater from only a few places, as it is a deep narrow corridor. One is on the riverbank just up from The Pohono Bridge by Fern Spring.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:50am PT
The view from inside the Tears Amphitheater is out of this world, and nearly never seen by anyone.

Shiver me timbers ...


I'd love to hit that spot, even if it did entail some wallowing & sketchy rapping...

It was cold in the Cruz last night. I wonder if we're gonna get another cold snap.
sneville

climber
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
Vitaliy,
A good approach is to use the beta in the Reed guide for the approach to climb WindFall (The climb looks awesome). I believe there is beta on mountain project. The approach in the summer was not that bad (about an 1hr). If you get the approach right you should cross the old 41 road at the bottom. If you make it to windfall you can scramble around to the left(exposed 4th class) into theater. This place is great just to walk in the theater. Have fun.

Sean
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
Thank you Sean and Warbler!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
I would suspect that traverse could be pretty sketchy in snow. I'm sure it's doable, but you'll want a rope at least, probably an ice axe.

Frontpointing up the slabs into the bowl is pretty cool - I think a great photo could be had there with the climb looming above.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 8, 2013 - 10:41am PT
If someone local can take a few pictures of the falls on Wednesday or Thursday it would be awesome. Seems like a warming trend going on, wonder if it survives.
hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
Jan 8, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
Vittles, a friend who works at the Ahwahnee might check for us today!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Vitaliy, even though its been warm the ice is still hanging in. these shots are from tues. late afternnon 1/8/13.
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
CF

climber
Jan 8, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
Stole these from Jasons FB page.
Credit: CF
Credit: CF
Credit: CF
Credit: CF
Credit: CF
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 8, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
Judging by the light on the summit trees, and the runouts, looks like they scampered up the thing right quick.

Conditions look pretty good, too.

Nice work guys!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 8, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
Thank you Mctwisted! You are the man! What do you do in Yosemite? Great place to live huh?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 8, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
"Thank you Mctwisted! You are the man! What do you do in Yosemite?"

The better question would be: What don't you do?
SpeedyTaco

Ice climber
San Gabes & Yosemite Village
Jan 9, 2013 - 12:33am PT
Better pics than mine. Still looked good this afternoon (Tuesday).

Lotta lines appear to be in all over the place. Supposedly a lotta rockfall above Huff/Curry Village today... coulda been ice, everyone here assumes it's rock. Anywho.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 09:17am PT
18 degrees in el portal, vitaliy it looks like you'll be able to see some good ice if you come up.
hey if anyone goes up there (on the tears) let me know so i can go take a couple pics
thanks
WBraun

climber
Jan 11, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
After Jason did the tears he went over to Quarter Domes with Eric Rasmusan and one other guy past half dome and skied down from Quarter Dome to Tenya Canyon.

Credit: Jason Torlano

Credit: Jason Torlano

New Ice Climb on Quarter Dome? Anyone up for it?

Credit: Jason Torlano
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