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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 20, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
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Photo bump for ASCA...
Ryan Mattock did the hard work on this Josh classic. I provided landtrans and moral support.
Guy Keesee provided logistical support on this restoration of a Dome Rock mega classic.
Ryan and I took the gals to Dome. Then what did we do? Fixed up the classic Saucer Full of Secrets. Had to lead it on the old mank one last time to get the rope up.
These were placed by Erik Eriksson, Dick Leversee and Fred Ziel in 1979...
If you're solid on spicy 5.10 face and you're going to do one route on Dome Rock, do Saucer. If you are there to try one of the harder testpieces, do Saucer for a warm up.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Dec 20, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
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Please stop giving Prezwoods/ Kelsey Gay bolt. He's a known retro bolter.
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Dec 20, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
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The ASCA kicks ass... without their generous donation to us there still would be a couple hundred shitty old bolts around Oregon. I've found replacing old bolts to be a fun little game to play. I wished I had more time and didn't have Lyme Disease, we could done a lot more this year! So anyways thanks Greg Barnes, The ASCA and any donors YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!
Cheers
Tyler Adams
lil trash from the 2009/2010 season
hey goatboy... YOU EVER REPLACED ANYTHING? OR you just clip the sh#t? My guess is the latter or you wouldn't be talking sh#t. Its NOT the ASCA adding the bolts, its dip shits with drills and ASCA bolts in hand doing so. Greg is certainly not sending bolts to people he knows are adding bolts. You care? Go chop em... but knocking an organization as a whole that's done way more good than I'm sure you have... well you get my point right?
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LccMonkey
Trad climber
utah
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Dec 20, 2011 - 07:03pm PT
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Workin on the update list for northern utah. Sorry it's been a long time and I kinda stopped counting.
But the work continues in the wasatch.
mike
I'll wait to reply to goatboy after the beer is gone.
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Dec 21, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
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Bump for the ASCA! This post should be on the front page for a while as it sounds like it increased donations quite a bit!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 21, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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This is one of two packages of equipment Greg sent me for use at The Needles (the Petzl long life there is one I had laying around.) This is where your donations go...
These beauties came from the face climbing crux on Balance Due on Hidden Tower in Josh. They are cheap hardware store crap, not even hardenned metal. The bend did not happen during removal...
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
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The more geographically dipersed the projects become, the more supporters they will have.......
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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No problem Chris, done!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 22, 2011 - 01:14am PT
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Will do.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:26am PT
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skating on stilts
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CBclimber
Trad climber
Durango, Colorado
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Apr 23, 2012 - 10:21am PT
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Great thread, with just a sprinkle of the climber sarcasm. I just started doing some anchor replacement at Indian Creek. Been surprised by how much tat people will put on climbs.
I've been replacing bolts, and adding quicklinks and chains to climbs.
Curious if anyone knows just how sketch the old homemade bolts are at The Creek? I've heard one story about someone pulling one, and decking. I've also seen that some anchors were drilled with only one bolt installed. Anyone have experience with these relics?
See photo below:
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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May 11, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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ASCA - Ameristar Casinos (NASDAQ)
ASCA - American School Counselor Association
ASCA - Australian Shepherd Club of America
ASCA - American Swimming Coaches Association
ASCA - Adult Survivors of Child Abuse
ASCA - Association for Student Conduct Administratos
ASCA - American Society of Consulting Arborists
ASCA - Association of State Correctional Administrators
Undoubtably worth organizations, all, but the one closest to my heart is
ASCA - American Safe Climbing Association
Thanks for making my climbing experience so much safer!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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May 11, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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Please stop giving bolts to Kelsey Gay, aka Prezwoods, he has a complete disregard for local ethics.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 20, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
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Kelsey Gays at it again... Did you call it Collateral Damage because of the retro bolts you placed on the start of Escape from the Lemming Ranch? What's wrong with you?
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 21, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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This isn't the first time Kelsey has decided to add bolts to an old existing climb. It's been going on for years. Retro bolts, slack line bolts.... Chop chop
Is the ASCA still supplying him with bolts? If so it needs to stop.
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Hoots
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Sep 21, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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What we need is a McCarthy Era witch hunt to out all these closeted, anti-American bolt fiends! Erik, Kelsey, who else can we add to this list of people defiling our cliffs?!
Seriously dude- you've been barking up this tree for some year now. Maybe just take a big deep breath, and go climbing.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Sep 21, 2015 - 09:32am PT
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Its called tragedy of the commons.......If left unsaid, we will be reduced to the lowest common denominator. I disagree with the senseless bashing,. but I feel as if is important that the community regulate itself. Its ok to make errors in judgement, just not the same error repetitively. Calling Kelsey and Eric out publicly IS important imo. Lets keep it classy.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 21, 2015 - 12:04pm PT
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Why can't they bolt some previously unclimbed rock? There's no shortage of unclimbed stone in the Talkeetna Mountains. Actually there's not even a shortage of virgin summits/spires there. A lifetimes worth of stuff to do that no ones touched. Why does an old established route all of a sudden need new bolts on the start?
This isn't the first time Kelsey's felt the need to dumb down a route to his ability. These aren't the first retro bolts he's placed...He's admitted to retro bolting in the past and even said it wouldn't happen again. See where that got us?
Is he still being supplied with ASCA bolts? If so that needs to stop. He's demonstrated repeatedly that he simply can not resist adding bolts to existing routes.
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