ASCA bolt replacement in the 2011 - Please support us!

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
Photo bump for ASCA...

Ryan Mattock did the hard work on this Josh classic. I provided landtrans and moral support.

Guy Keesee provided logistical support on this restoration of a Dome Rock mega classic.

Ryan and I took the gals to Dome. Then what did we do? Fixed up the classic Saucer Full of Secrets. Had to lead it on the old mank one last time to get the rope up.

These were placed by Erik Eriksson, Dick Leversee and Fred Ziel in 1979...


If you're solid on spicy 5.10 face and you're going to do one route on Dome Rock, do Saucer. If you are there to try one of the harder testpieces, do Saucer for a warm up.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Dec 20, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
Please stop giving Prezwoods/ Kelsey Gay bolt. He's a known retro bolter.
jack herer

Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
Dec 20, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
The ASCA kicks ass... without their generous donation to us there still would be a couple hundred shitty old bolts around Oregon. I've found replacing old bolts to be a fun little game to play. I wished I had more time and didn't have Lyme Disease, we could done a lot more this year! So anyways thanks Greg Barnes, The ASCA and any donors YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!

Cheers
Tyler Adams

lil trash from the 2009/2010 season


hey goatboy... YOU EVER REPLACED ANYTHING? OR you just clip the sh#t? My guess is the latter or you wouldn't be talking sh#t. Its NOT the ASCA adding the bolts, its dip shits with drills and ASCA bolts in hand doing so. Greg is certainly not sending bolts to people he knows are adding bolts. You care? Go chop em... but knocking an organization as a whole that's done way more good than I'm sure you have... well you get my point right?
LccMonkey

Trad climber
utah
Dec 20, 2011 - 07:03pm PT


Workin on the update list for northern utah. Sorry it's been a long time and I kinda stopped counting.
But the work continues in the wasatch.

mike

I'll wait to reply to goatboy after the beer is gone.
jack herer

Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
Dec 21, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
Bump for the ASCA! This post should be on the front page for a while as it sounds like it increased donations quite a bit!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 21, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
This is one of two packages of equipment Greg sent me for use at The Needles (the Petzl long life there is one I had laying around.) This is where your donations go...


These beauties came from the face climbing crux on Balance Due on Hidden Tower in Josh. They are cheap hardware store crap, not even hardenned metal. The bend did not happen during removal...

Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Dec 21, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
The more geographically dipersed the projects become, the more supporters they will have.......
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
Thank you Ksolem and Jack Herer for posting those photos. If there is any way you could also post them to the ASCA Facebook page or let me know if I can post them there. I want to start collecting a gallery of replaced bolt photos and facebook seems the easiest way to do it.
jack herer

Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
Dec 22, 2011 - 12:57am PT
No problem Chris, done!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 22, 2011 - 01:14am PT
Will do.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:26am PT
skating on stilts
Greg Barnes

climber
Dec 22, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
CBclimber

Trad climber
Durango, Colorado
Apr 23, 2012 - 10:21am PT
Great thread, with just a sprinkle of the climber sarcasm. I just started doing some anchor replacement at Indian Creek. Been surprised by how much tat people will put on climbs.

I've been replacing bolts, and adding quicklinks and chains to climbs.

Curious if anyone knows just how sketch the old homemade bolts are at The Creek? I've heard one story about someone pulling one, and decking. I've also seen that some anchors were drilled with only one bolt installed. Anyone have experience with these relics?

See photo below:

phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
May 11, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
ASCA - Ameristar Casinos (NASDAQ)
ASCA - American School Counselor Association
ASCA - Australian Shepherd Club of America
ASCA - American Swimming Coaches Association
ASCA - Adult Survivors of Child Abuse
ASCA - Association for Student Conduct Administratos
ASCA - American Society of Consulting Arborists
ASCA - Association of State Correctional Administrators

Undoubtably worth organizations, all, but the one closest to my heart is

ASCA - American Safe Climbing Association

Thanks for making my climbing experience so much safer!


johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
May 11, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
Please stop giving bolts to Kelsey Gay, aka Prezwoods, he has a complete disregard for local ethics.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 20, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
Kelsey Gays at it again... Did you call it Collateral Damage because of the retro bolts you placed on the start of Escape from the Lemming Ranch? What's wrong with you?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 21, 2015 - 08:20am PT
This isn't the first time Kelsey has decided to add bolts to an old existing climb. It's been going on for years. Retro bolts, slack line bolts.... Chop chop


Is the ASCA still supplying him with bolts? If so it needs to stop.
Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Sep 21, 2015 - 08:54am PT
What we need is a McCarthy Era witch hunt to out all these closeted, anti-American bolt fiends! Erik, Kelsey, who else can we add to this list of people defiling our cliffs?!

Seriously dude- you've been barking up this tree for some year now. Maybe just take a big deep breath, and go climbing.
cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
Sep 21, 2015 - 09:32am PT
Its called tragedy of the commons.......If left unsaid, we will be reduced to the lowest common denominator. I disagree with the senseless bashing,. but I feel as if is important that the community regulate itself. Its ok to make errors in judgement, just not the same error repetitively. Calling Kelsey and Eric out publicly IS important imo. Lets keep it classy.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 21, 2015 - 12:04pm PT


Why can't they bolt some previously unclimbed rock? There's no shortage of unclimbed stone in the Talkeetna Mountains. Actually there's not even a shortage of virgin summits/spires there. A lifetimes worth of stuff to do that no ones touched. Why does an old established route all of a sudden need new bolts on the start?

This isn't the first time Kelsey's felt the need to dumb down a route to his ability. These aren't the first retro bolts he's placed...He's admitted to retro bolting in the past and even said it wouldn't happen again. See where that got us?

Is he still being supplied with ASCA bolts? If so that needs to stop. He's demonstrated repeatedly that he simply can not resist adding bolts to existing routes.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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