Daryl Hatten


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Trad climber
Apr 10, 2011 - 03:28am PT
killer thread, the voices of legends.
The Larry

Moab, UT
Apr 10, 2011 - 04:17am PT
Ah....the troubled soul looking to squeeze the lemon.

Cheers Daryl.

Apr 10, 2011 - 06:06am PT
"so how do you like me so far"
-hard to get the nasalized inflection when pecking this on the keyboard.

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 10, 2011 - 10:47am PT
Anymore Daryl Hatten stories would be appreciated!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
Apr 10, 2011 - 10:51am PT
I always figured, if Dennis the Menace ever grew up, it would be Daryl - Looks and all.

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 10, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
You nailed it, Bruce.

Social climber
100% Canadian
Apr 10, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
Daryl belayed me when I led my first 5.12 pitch - thats probably why I pulled it off, just to save face less I fail in the eyes of "The Wall Master", hardman of hardmen ... etc etc
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 11, 2011 - 02:16am PT
That's got to Fred East in the car with Man Zanita!

Apr 13, 2011 - 09:45am PT
Just read your post from 5 yrs back -i remember daryl chortling "heh, forth classed the east buttress of el cap with punk rock roy. hammer loads to the max the night before mon"
good to piece in another section from days gone by

A long way from where I started
Apr 13, 2011 - 10:27am PT
Somebody brought up Daryl's contributions on the "Squamish in the 70s" thread, and I posted my first memory of him there. I'll repost it here cuz it belongs here too...

Sometime in the seventies, I don't remember exactly when, Daryl and I were sitting in the dirty drinking hole known as the Chieftain. I don't know who either of us had been climbing with that day, or how we came to be sharing a table that night. We didn't know each other, and I don't remember what we talked about. Climbs we planned to do, probably. I do remember being surprised to find that he wasn't what I had expected from the stories that I'd heard. Rough around the edges, sure. But mostly quiet and friendly -- hardly the wildman I'd been expecting.

Then, without warning, he jumped to his feet, and confronted two strangers who had just entered the bar. It was clear they were his friends, but his way of greeting one of them was pretty strange. He said something like, "Whhhoaa! Man." Then hit him. Hard -- really hard -- in the shoulder.

"Heeyyy! Man." The other guy responded, and pounded Daryl just as hard.

They must have taken three or four shots at each other, any of which would have collapsed me to the floor in pain. The other visitor sat down and introduced himself as Bill Price, and said Daryl's good friend was Big Wally. I think his real name was Mike, but even though I climbed with him the next day, I never did find out for sure.

Eventually Daryl and Wally stopped pounding each other and sat down, and we were joined by a few other climbers. But where Daryl had been relatively quiet earlier, he now switched into another mode. Loud and uncouth probably sums it up best. And where the conversation had earlier been mostly about climbs, for Daryl and Wally it quickly turned into a macho fest. Starting with, "I can outdrink you, easy."

Boat races followed. The two seemed evenly matched, both able to swallow a glass of beer faster than I'd ever seen it done before. I don't remember what other tests they gave each other, but eventually it boiled down to something along the lines of "None of that sh#t matters. I'm just plain harder than you."

At which point Daryl pushed up a sleeve and slammed one of his forearms down on the table. I guess Wally didn't know Daryl as well as he thought, because he went for it. He pushed up his own sleeve and laid his bare forearm on the table, tight against Daryl's.

I didn't know what macho ritual I was about to witness, but what I saw was like nothing I'd ever seen before. Daryl picked up his cigarette, drew hard on it till the end was glowing bright red, then laid it down in the groove of their matched forearms.

Wally was tough, I guess. He had to be, not to jerk his arm away right away. He held on longer than I, and probably any of you could have. Hair burned, then flesh burned, then finally Wally gave up. And throughout it all, Daryl not only didn't flinch, he laughed.

Many of you knew Daryl better than I did. I was certainly never a close friend, but I ran into him regularly enough after that. Sometimes he was the quiet guy I'd been having a beer with at the beginning of that first evening, and sometimes he was the outrageous wildman he turned into toward its end. I often wondered which was the "real" Daryl, not realizing what most of his friends had probably figured out long ago, that he was both, and both were him.

That night, all I could think was how amazing it was that all the punches he took, and the burning flesh, didn't hurt. These decades later I know they did hurt. Daryl could just take it better than anyone else.

Social climber
Apr 15, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
Hee hee hee I'm pretty sure that Bill P was 18 y/o on that trip.

And in the bar.

Great to note that Bill, belayed by Mike B ( Big Wally ) did the 2nd ascent of Sentry Box, then 5.12, on that trip. It gave the rest of us who thought of ourselves as "free climbers" something to shoot for.

Bill & Wally were great guys & great climbers. Glad to have had Daryl there for the intros.

Glad I missed them burning the smoke between their arms. Ick.

Daryl R I P

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Apr 16, 2011 - 11:06am PT
Ghost's story reminds me of a hilarious occurrence on that same trip.
Somewhere in all the drinking, partnerships were formed and plans made.
The Split Pillar was the must do pitch to introduce Bill to so we formed up two teams and headed up the wall. I seem to recall Bill roped up with Dave Lane and I with Daryl and we were all BADLY hungover.
Bill floated the right side and the rest of us managed to toil our way up.
As we languished on the top of the Pillar, enjoying the exposure and hating our hangovers our attention was drawn to the progress of Ghost and Big Wally who had formed an unlikely partnership and headed up Uncle Ben's.
They were hidden from our view under the big overhang and had just completed the traverse pitch.
Big Wally hollered loud and clear, "Ready to haul, cut the bags loose!"
Moments later the haul bags came plummeting out from under the overhang, tethered to nothing at all and hurtled, cartwheeling into the forest spewing bivi gear, water bottles and hardware.
We laughed so hard we were practically crying.
From under the overhang, SILENCE.
Later two dejected figures emerged, rapping down to spend the rest of the day gathering up their gear.

Social climber
Apr 16, 2011 - 11:21am PT
^^^ I was at the base of the wall that day with Peter & heard that freight train hit the ground. Glad not to have been further uphill towards Seasoned in the Sun or we'eda been scattering like Muslims in orchards the way that thing came in.

Trad climber
Washington DC
Apr 16, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
Now Tami, I can honestly say Darryl and I did not have carnal relations. We did hook up in camp 4 however and spent the day at arch rock. I did the leading as I remember. Arch Rock was always my home spot to take guests in the Valley, midterm, gripper, new d, leany meany.

A long way from where I started
Apr 16, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
Moments later the haul bags came plummeting out from under the overhang, tethered to nothing at all

Ah, that does bring back memories.

This is a thread to the memory of Daryl, but since Daryl was up on the Pillar with you, laughing his ass off, I guess the story of Wally and me on Uncle Ben's does fit in.

In the pub the night before, when all the plans were being made and the rest of you were set on hard free climbing, Big Wally looked around and said something along the lines of "Doesn't anyone want to do some aid?" He fancied himself a Yosemite Big Wall Climber (although I later heard that his other nickname was Boris Backinoff, so I don't know how good he actually was), and said he really wasn't interested in free climbing. I'd never climbed Uncle Ben's but it was supposedly pretty easy, and I figured it'd be fun to go up on it with a true Yosemite Wall Master. Two mellow days, no need for an Alpine Start, no scary pitches. Just some good fun.

So the next day we scrambled up to the top of The Flake with a gear for a small wall and a small haul bag with not much in it besides a bit of food and water and two sleeping bags. Wally being the guest and all, I thought I'd offer him the first couple of pitches, since I'd climbed them a dozen times. And that's when it started to get weird...

Those two pitches were a classic standalone free climb called Merci Me. Super mellow cruising up a felsite dike that shot straight up from the top of the flake, eventually ending at a big overhang. Easy climbing, but in an amazing location. Obviously, Wally would want them.

"I don't free climb."

"Yeah, I know, but this isn't hard."

"I don't free climb."

"Yeah, but this isn't the Split Pillar or anything, it's just 5.7 and 5.8 dike hiking. Okay, there's only three bolts per pitch, but it's cake."

"I don't free climb."

How can you be an El Cap hardman and not climb easy 5.8? Hell, Perry had climbed the thing barefoot. I was about to give it one more try, but he cut me off with: "You lead it, or I'm going down."

Not an auspicious beginning. But, okay, maybe he's just weirded out by the lack of pro. So I lead the first pitch and brought him up. Then the second. Once we were tucked up under the big roof, Wally seemed more comfortable. There was a 10c traverse pitch heading left, but since it featured a crack at the back of the overhang, into which he could pound pins, life was good for him again. We'd stuffed the aid gear into the haul bag, tied two ropes to it and left it at the base. I started to set up to haul, but Wally more or less shoved me aside and said this was his department.

Which it was. He had that bag up beside us in about two minutes, and was soon racked up for the short traverse pitch. Which he was across in almost no time.

Since the pitch was short and the bag was now fairly light, we agreed that the best way to haul was to retie the bag into the middle of the haul line, and then he'd tow it across with me kind of belaying it from my end.

Simple, right? So I tied a figure 8 on a bight, clipped a locker into the knot, and then clipped it to the haul loop. Thats when he gave the "Ready to Haul" shout that Perry and Co. heard. So I started to untie the original haul knot and...

...and it suddenly whipped out of my hand and I watched as the bag did the big plummet.

Yup. I'd somehow managed to clip the new knot into the old knot rather than into the haul loop, and when I untied the old not -- Drop Time.

Not much more to tell. I cleaned the pitch, and we headed down. I think we were both pretty relieved to be off a climb with a partner we didn't trust. I mean, who wants to be on a wall with someone who won't free climb 5.7? And who wants to be on a wall with someone who can't clip a rope to the right point?

At least we provided some entertainment.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
Apr 16, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
Dave you'll be happy to know the fine tradition of dropped bags on Uncle Bens continues. A couple of years ago some individuals (who shall remain nameless) Dropped a bag the full length of the haul line - onto the leaders harness!!! To make a long story short, after much pain and anguish the knife came out and it was bombs away, much to the horror of the sunday crowd below!

Now if they had trained up a bit with cigaretes in the arm and punches to the head at the chieftain that never would have happened eh?

Which reminds me of a tall tale I once heard of the Bear and Daryl trundling from way up there not knowing that down below was the Bears brother Anders, on the famous finger crack Anders' Bum (misnamed Seasoned in the Sun). I have no idea if its a true tale but no doubt Anders knows!
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 16, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
I was once bombarded with bread and canned sardines, at the top of the Flake. Robin Barley and I had done a route, and someone up on the Grand dropped a bunch of stuff. Late 1970s, could have been Daryl. The miracle of the loaves and fishes. That was when I was doing my sentence as Robin Barley's apprentice - someday we should have a reunion of everyone who's ever been Robin Barley's Apprentice. Could be a large group - he goes through them. Anyway, he wrote it all up somewhere.

Never been strafed on Seasoned in the Sun - it's in the line of fire for the Northwest Passage area, and rocks regularly come down, especially from the Northwest Passage/Vulcan's Artery junction.

Social climber
Apr 16, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
Was it Randy who tossed the Digestive biskit off the top of the Pillar and astonishingly nearly took Daryl's ear off................ or Daryl who tossed the cookie .

Daryl wasn't known fer tossin' his cookies


But it's a true story about the Digestive biskit nearly takin' someone's ear off...

Social climber
100% Canadian
Apr 16, 2011 - 10:05pm PT
Robin Barley's Apprentice I'll admit I can check mark that box

Somewhere I wrote about the first time I met Daryl and Hugh B. - they had just hopped a freight train down from Quesnel, I was camped on Pysche ledge - Daryl chased me around my car at night with a running chain saw I was totally terrified. Hugh then sent me into the Chieften to buy a couple cases of beer and a wild night of drinking ensued on Pysche ledge. classic experience for me, a 16 yr old noob at the time
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 16, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
Always a cost of admission for the fun involved but he turned serious a few times.

Like when Anguish posted the first ascent of Wet Denim Daydream in the AAJ. There was a misprint... Daryl had been transformed into Darly.

At first he laughed, "Huh, can you believe it? ME, Darly Hatten? Of course for 15 minutes we called him Darly.

Then the I'M NOT DARLY and if YOU CALL ME THAT, I'LL KILL YOU ! ! ! avenue of argument won the day.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 75 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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