Crack climbing- getting started.

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 21 - 40 of total 92 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Doug Robinson

Trad climber

Santa Cruz

Nov 27, 2011 - 09:36am PT

Thanks, Jim! Nicely said, and you reminded me of some things to work on next try.

Feet: I've had success reducing foot pain by smearing the edges of cracks. Instead of a foot-horizontal, straight-in placement (which puts max ouch onto your poor toes), try pointing your toes up the crack, torquing a smear onto one wall and lightly nudging the outside of your foot against the other side.

Doesn't always work, of course, but when it does you find yourself getting past moves, and then whole series of moves, with a tenth of the toe pain.

Also, I've been having big success lately with stiffer shoes. Got a pair of JBs for offwidth, but I'm liking them in jams. Mostly I climb in slippers, but the JBs are encouraging me to get back on cracks where the pain was a deterrent.

barry ohm

Trad climber

escondido, ca

Nov 27, 2011 - 09:45am PT

It starts with tape, Not gloves , not those cute little gloves made out of tape, Just a couple of wraps and Bam, Im done. Thanks Jim

steveA

Trad climber

bedford,massachusetts

Nov 27, 2011 - 10:28am PT

Hey Jim,

Quite a thesis!

I've never read a better description of the technique.
Have fun in Patagonia!

Roger Breedlove

climber

Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Nov 27, 2011 - 10:47am PT

Nice primer Jim. I think we can all remember the sense of ‘aha’ when the jams clicked. I cannot remember the time or place but I remember the feeling.

When I have returned to climbing after years of abstinence, I find a huge store of muscle memory that shows up in placing a perfect jam without thinking about it. However, in my may case, my muscle memory is faulty and I would find myself in positions without a clear sense of how I got there and no clear sense of what to do next. Reverting back to teaching, I would 'tell' myself what to do to move up. Then the automatic memory would return for a few moves.

A comment I would add is the need to work on foot jamming for strength training. Thinking in particular about something like Moby Dick center, the difference between a simple walkup the slightly too wide crack and desperate climbing is the ability to twist your foot enough to hold your weight and stand up. The technique is straight forward, but without the strength, the 5.9 rating is meaningless.

The Alpine

Big Wall climber

Nov 27, 2011 - 11:07am PT

The Chief approves this thread.

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Nov 27, 2011 - 11:14am PT

Thanks Jim!

surfstar

climber

Santa Barbara, CA

Nov 27, 2011 - 11:28am PT

Last year when I started climbing I cursed cracks - "Crack is Whack". Severely cursed my way up the second pitch of Phobos, slipping out of jam after attempted jam. Halloween in Jtree led to more cursing, especially on that one section of Dogleg - near the pin. A few months later they started sticking. Not sure why/how, but my jams were getting more solid. Felt so secure when I sank a good one. If I'm on lead now, I feel way more comfortable when I have a good hand and foot jam to work with. I still have trouble finding ways to work it out when the crack doesn't fit my hand nicely, usually involves switching thumb up/down, trying a different section, etc - much like my current gear placements go.

As much as I'm still learning, I find it funny to see people try to face climb the featured cracks w/o any jams - they use more energy and struggle more than I do on my semi-secure jams.

The easiest section of Party in the Desert last weekend: the crack!

ladyscarlett

Trad climber

SF Bay Area, California

Nov 27, 2011 - 01:17pm PT

I am constantly being teased by my face inclined friend about my crack addiction, but I don't care cause I really just can't stop. In fact, I love leading those same friends (who avoid crack whenever possible) up large stretches of crack, and take great enjoyment at watching them struggle to avoid committing to the undiscovered pleasure of being deep in the crack.

And I can't stop telling them...there is very little that is as good as hitting just the right spot in a chosen crack and having it hold me tight, firm and gentle in all the right ways. I just can't stop my pleasure sounds and I can't stay away.

Cracks just draw me in and learning new techniques has rarely been so much...bliss.

I suspect I may be addicted! heh

thanks for posting up the crack porn and tips. Still working on getting my wyde technique. I think this means I get the 'tight hands' leads...mwhahaha!

Cheers

LS

Dos XX

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Nov 27, 2011 - 01:27pm PT

Jim -- this is very, very good information. Thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom and experience with the rest of us.

KabalaArch

Trad climber

Starlite, California

Nov 27, 2011 - 02:50pm PT

Ringlocks!

My favorite!

This works in cracks a bit wider than fingers - another favorite size - which, of course, are wider than hands.

The end configuration looks like you're making an "okay" hand signal. First, bend your index finger down and into a semi circle. As you insert it into the crack, wedge your thumb over the outside of your index finger - for a little more crank, try and wrap the tip of the thumb over the fingernail of the index finger.

Bldrjac

Ice climber

Boulder

Nov 27, 2011 - 04:00pm PT

Crack Climbing...........what climbers do when they can't slab climb....................

westhegimp

Social climber

granada hills

Nov 27, 2011 - 07:51pm PT

Wow, good stuff.

For myself, I made good progress when I stopped using tape. I started by taking a small bit of time to get every hand jam nice and comfortable on the back of my hand and just above a small restriction(if there was one) then I set the jam by pulling my thumb down and cupping my fingers. Sometimes the jams worked better thumb down. Especially if the jamb was a bit wide. I would never weight a lock or jam unless it was good, meaning it didn't slip or rotate. Of course it took a while to learn what would hold and what was not going to hold. Every time a jam slipped there would be blood! (Then the tape would come out. :) Once the jam is set and weighted, Don't move it! Don't rotate it either. (remember the blood!)

I would also take the same amount of care with foot placements. Taking a small amount of time to locate a good place for a foot in the crack(usually above a small constriction), then hanging straight armed(as much as possible) as I raised my foot up, while letting my knee bend out to the side, then placing my foot in the crack as comfortably as possible. Then pulling my knee in and up. This would place torque on the foot jamb by twisting my foot while it was in the crack. Then I would make sure not to let my knee move and unlock the foot jam.

My skin on the backs of my hands is not tough and calloused. Also the nerves there, are very alive and feel every crystal and bump. Good crack technique is all that is needed most of the time. :) Try it sometime. Keep the tape in your backpack just in case. :)

My .02 cents.

Wes

selfish man

Gym climber

Austin, TX

Nov 27, 2011 - 08:02pm PT

Don't use any gear other than blue camalots. Well, maybe gold ones too

Fritz

Trad climber

Choss Creek, ID

Nov 27, 2011 - 08:22pm PT

Donini! Thanks! I am forwarding your tips to Heidi.

I fear the only cure for her "stemming" problem is Indian Creek cracks.

That will fix her!

Here's some Donini crack climbing illustrations from easy routes at City of Rocks.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 27, 2011 - 11:38pm PT

Slightly differing from donini, I'd say that all climbing is crack. Highly addictive stuff.

With regard to footwear, at least for those starting out, a good all-round shoe, reasonably snug but comfortable enough to wear for some time, is the best option. Something that's supportive, and won't torture your feet, in cracks or not. A light, soft shoe (slipper) is rarely a good choice for hand, fist or wider cracks, and often is little overall advantage even on thin cracks.

Course, if you're leading 5.10 and harder cracks, decide for yourself. Though I'm always somewhat take aback when I see people doing offwidths in slippers.

climber

Nov 27, 2011 - 11:51pm PT

Excellent! Great contribution Donini.

pc

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Nov 27, 2011 - 11:57pm PT

Where crack addiction begins for many. Me on my first valley lead-jamcrack (early spring 2011).

Progression-late 2011. Me on 1st 5.10 crux of Beeline on Incredible Hulk.

BUMP

kaholatingtong

Trad climber

nevada city, California

Nov 28, 2011 - 01:10am PT

and enjoy the pain! with it the pleasure of a comfortable bomber jam becomes even sweeter. oh crackalackalack. and cheers to jamcrack in the pic above ^^. such a nice crack to learn in.