Slab Climbing

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 157 of total 157 in this topic

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2011 - 11:30am PT

When I climb cracks I understand that good technique and not weighting a ton is helpful. On slab however at times I see some big people doing hard climbs. So is it all about technique on slab, till it gets into 5.9-5.10?

Toulumne run outs are pretty scary. And there is a route I want to do some day with runout 5.10 slab (in high sierra). Is there a good place to practice slab climbing during winter (around Valley or Tahoe area) to improve?

any tips aside from 'yer gonna die'?

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 23, 2011 - 11:40am PT

I really don't get off on slabs that much so I tend to avoid them. My take is that doing well depends on developing the mind/body connection that lets you know precisely what the quality of your foothold is. Knowing what will work (regarding your feet) and the angle to weight your foot is crucial. Correct body posistion, and confidence can only come thru application.
If I haven't climbed slabs for awhile (often the case) It takes me a few days to get the feeling back.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber

Retired to Appalachia

Nov 23, 2011 - 11:41am PT

You can get some good winter slab climbing on Glacier Point Apron on really nice warm winter day. But I would head over the base of the Royal Arches since it faces south. You can putz around and do some slab bouldering at the base of Shakey Flakes, etc.

Tuolomne has a ton of slab bouldering - short, steep stuff where you can play around and hone the slab technique. Always tons of fun. Of course, it's only accessible during the summer unless you like to ski.

Tahoe is so high that I think it would be too cold for any winter slab climbing.

God, I loved the Tuolomne runouts.

Take my advice - experienced gleaned frm first-hand experience - NEVER take a long ripper when slab climbing...

Dos XX

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 11:45am PT

Glacier Point Apron is slab heaven, though it's north-ish facing so could be wet and/or icy in spots at this time of year. The Grack Marginal is entry-level 5.9 slab and some find it's on the threshold of being run-out.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 11:54am PT

in the winter go over to Royal Arches Apron and slab climb there, in the sun it is pleasant, the cold rock is good on friction, and it is usually empty.

there are a lot of good face/slab climbs over there, and the new bolting has tamed a lot of the monsters...

the routes are plenty long...

also check out the Cookie Sheet... which is a moderate face/slab...

otherwise, go to Toll House and play around there in the winter sun, great place if you don't mind people shooting above you

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Nov 23, 2011 - 11:56am PT

Fat is where it's at on the slabs..

Branscomb

Trad climber

Lander, WY

Nov 23, 2011 - 12:11pm PT

Being really aware of where you are over your feet, move smoothly and keeping a cool head. It's still my favorite kind of rock climbing. You have to display some grace, esp when it gets harder. Having a low strength to weight ratio, I've always found it easier to excel on slabs than many other sorts of climbing.

I like to warm up on something easier before I step onto anything 5.9 or above and mainly it involves warming up my mind. A lot of it is about being very smooth in movement and if you're rough in your mind, your movements will be correspondingly hesitant and jerky. Pop right off when that starts going.

I've taken some very good, like 5.12, sport climbers around here slab climbing, smearing friction/small hold face in the 5.10 range, and they been kinda blown away by it. They don't want to touch it in the lead. It's a real different pursuit.

phylp

Trad climber

Millbrae, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 12:34pm PT

In the Bay area, you can practice slab - on a toprope ! - on certain climbs at both Mt. Diablo and Castle Rock. Isn't Jim Thornburg putting out a new guidebook soon? That will direct you to them - or find someone who has an old guidebook for the areas.
After you climb slab on that sandy round-edged rock, granite feels so much better!

Spider Savage

Mountain climber

The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles

Nov 23, 2011 - 12:51pm PT

I love that feeling of smearing hands and feet on pure slab with perhaps a few faint micro holds know that if you stop moving your are going to grease right off.

It gives me that awesome mind-over-matter feeling.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2011 - 12:52pm PT

Thank you guys for useful responses. Although I focus more on alpine climbing, there are some slab routes in toulumne, and some slabby 5.10 cruxes with runouts on high Sierra peaks that I'd like to do some day. Slab is not one of my priorities, but something I'd like to improve though.

Sierra Ledge Rat

God, I loved the Tuolomne runouts

YEAH! I saw that picture of you soloing some 5.8 many times!

Ed, none of your Bay Area friends have slab simulators in wood shops?!?! : ) My friend went to one of those OW meetings, seemed like he had a lot of fun.

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:05pm PT

Good reference on past Topic posted by Breedlove: 1970s-Bolt protected ................

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/287643/1970s-Bolt-protected-run-out-slab-climbing

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:11pm PT

Donini's analysis is correct as far as it goes, up to about 5.11 or so depending on the individual.

Really hard slab climbing (Ron Carson and Tony Yaniro's routes on Dome Rock at The Needles come to mind, and a few things up at Courtright,) require an entirely different technique.

No longer can you improve your footwork or science out your shoes. Crimping the thinnest of edges will, by itself get you nowhere either.

Essentially your entire body becomes like a hand. You develope an ability to attain contact strength through a tension between hands and feet so that your body as a whole grips the stone. When you go to move one point of contact, the others maintain that grip or you fall.

Similarly to the way you adapt your grip to different handhholds, jams, etc., on the hardest power slabs you must adapt the way in which your body holds onto the rock.

True masters of this technique are able to climb this way while using their full range of motion, in other words having the power and flexibility at once.

klk

Trad climber

cali

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:19pm PT

Really hard slab climbing (Ron Carson and Tony Yaniro's routes on Dome Rock at The Needles come to mind, and a few things up at Courtright,) require an entirely different technique.

No longer can you improve your footwork or science out your shoes. Crimping the thinnest of edges will, by itself get you nowhere either.

Essentially your entire body becomes like a hand. You develope an ability to attain contact strength through a tension between hands and feet so that your body as a whole grips the stone. When you go to move one point of contact, the others maintain that grip or you fall.

yeah, my favorite slab climbing involves as much body tension work as a compression roof.

i had a couple projects this fall where i'd wake up the next day and my lats and abs would be sore.

that kind of slab climbing isnt usually that easy to find-- you have to search it out. unless yr at fontainbleau, and then you've got miles of it.

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:36pm PT

Camp4, the glass pyramid. V0, V1, V4. polished slabby sickness.

jewedlaw

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:38pm PT

FACE DOWN ASS UP!

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:41pm PT

OK, so after I become one with the slab, what happens next?

henny

Social climber

The Past

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:42pm PT

So is it all about technique on slab, till it gets into 5.9-5.10?

It's even more about technique the harder it gets, IMO. One might be able to get up something easier with poor technique. But when it starts getting into the upper range, breakdowns in technique usually mean "outta there".

A lot of reps on easier, well protected routes, can be a good thing. Then when doing the runouts and you come across the dicey move, you'll know that if you execute properly there's no reason you'll fall. If it was well protected you wouldn't (experience on well protected has shown you that), so why would you just because it was run out? Simply focus on solid technical execution, and it's a done deal. The trick is usually flushing all the non-sense from your head when runout, so that the focus can be on committed technical execution.

Edit: maybe I read something into that quote that wasn't intended. Maybe it meant, after 5.9/5.10-, technique is still required but it takes something more? Perhaps so.

murcy

Gym climber

sanfrancisco

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:49pm PT

Ed Sez:

otherwise, go to Toll House and play around there in the winter sun

Yes.

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:54pm PT

"Slide and glide and save your hide."

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Nov 23, 2011 - 01:59pm PT

Plenty of good winter slab climbing in the Valley. Mentioned previously.
Arches Terrace is a good intermediate. Grack Marginal is excellent on a warm winter day but DON'T FALL on the 5.9 crux. Great short topropes on the face just to the right of Pine Line. Bouldering at Swan Slab. Jump For Joy at Manure Pile.
Tricks: practice, practice, practice. Even more than liebacks you have to really feel what your body is doing. It's hard for me to describe but you learn to think with your fingertips and balls of your feet. Only by practice will you learn what your feet can do with shallow edges, "divots" and "rugosities". Amazing how well small protruding crystals work.
Balance: something else you have to learn by doing. Don't lean too far into the rock, you lose your feet. Don't lean too far back, you lose your fingertips. The proper balance is always changing depending on the angle and the size/shape/placement of holds. Like conventional face climbing but much more delicate.
Keep your heels low! Usually lower than your toes. This keeps maximum shoe surface on the rock.
Move slowly. No "dynos". Relax
Think out a few moves in advance, once moving keep going. Sometimes holds look different as you climb up to them, don't be afraid to adjust.
Don't Get Lost!!! Read the topo carefully. Take particular note of where it varies from a straight or "obvious" line. If a bolt or anchor seems to be in a weird place, there's likely a good reason.
Flexibility. practice the "left knee in right ear" kind of moves.
Fingertips. If you can see whites in your fingernails, they're too long.
It's a lot like conventional "face" climbing with less emphasis on strength, more on control, flexibility and balance.
Practice, practice, practice. My gym (Pacific Edge) always has good slab routes.

I just re-read Ksolem's post. Excellent and he REALLY knows his stuff.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Nov 23, 2011 - 02:05pm PT

If you look at the well known photo of Henny on his famous route "Someone You're Not" at Suicide Rock, you'll see exactly what I meant in my post above about power and range of motion being used by a master on a slab.

Actually that is a pretty steep slab.

Monkey-sa

Trad climber

Bishop, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 02:18pm PT

Heels down, butt up.

henny

Social climber

The Past

Nov 23, 2011 - 02:20pm PT

Steep slab rules! Far better than that Apron paddling (hehe).

I agree that the Arches Apron is good, but you kinda need to feel comfortable doing runouts to do the better routes over there. The Middle apron is also superb, but probably quite cold now.

HighTraverse nailed it, practice, practice, practice. Till it becomes second nature, and you just know you can do it. Then the runouts become managable, as long as focus is maintained.

No dynos? In general, agreed. The problem with a dyno is that it can't be recovered from if it goes bad. But then there are those cases where a power hop to a hold may be the best answer. I guess that qualifies as a semi-dyno though. Useful technique when you just can't quite reach that good hold.

We did an FA this summer that had a reasonably long full on sideways dyno that was launched from the middle of a very thin sequence. Really wild, and really good. Pretty unusual though.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 02:22pm PT

no slab simulators, and nothing like them in the gyms around here either....

but it would be relatively straight forward to build a "slab simulator"
one might look around to various built structures in the Bay Area and check out the appropriateness of using them for slab training...

Mikereddig

Trad climber

Camas, WA

Nov 23, 2011 - 02:54pm PT

I like Joshua Tree slab, but the rock is very different from Tuolomne, so not in and of itself good practice for the shiny granite.

The difference in angle between a JT 5.10 slab and a Tuolomne 5.10 slab is impressive though.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2011 - 03:05pm PT

Really good advice in this thread. One of the reasons I want to improve it is my friend and I backed off from 2nd pitch of Aqua Knobby this summer (we didn't climb in toulumne much before. Reg. route of Fairview dome, W/N ridges of Conness, 3rd Pillar of Dana, Cathedral, Echo peaks etc, Mathis are NOT your typical toulumne climbs!).

Practicing on buildings could be fun. Russian Cathedrals and Synagogues have a lot of potential..

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Nov 23, 2011 - 03:10pm PT

Dittos on everything Henny said. If you have an honest interest in this art, you should have everything Henny and Dimes have ever written on the topic tattooed on your forehead.

My two cents:

First, you gotta love it for what it is. A passion for the whole mind/body continuum that is hard slab is essential. Not your bag? Don't go there. Follow your bliss, whatever it may be.

Second: Devote a whole climbing season to slab. Blow off everything else. My first summer in the Valley I was essentially a crack climber. But the Spring before that first summer Watusi and I hosted Powell at Santee and he blew our minds. Good thing Henny was not there as well; we would have quit climbing on the spot and taken up bowling or fly fishing. Pretty much spent the next year training for and learning how for hard slab. I remember summer of '76 George Manson would eyeball us as we were rackin up and remark "back to the Apron, eh?" He meant it as a compliment.

Third: Sh#t, I don't have a third. Hard slab is an indefinable art. Jedi Mind Tricks. Metaphysics. Whatever. If you got the itch, just go do it. Have fun. Take some big falls and learn to love 'em, like rolling a kayak again and again. First time I did "Mad Dog" at Big Rock I took five or six 30' sliders in a row. It was fun! Learn to read a slab. Develop a sixth sense. Understand the analysis of conditions; just don't get on some routes on some days. Bide your time. Set your goals. Get "Greasy But Groovy." A far more proud send, IMHO, than any other route in the Valley.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Nov 23, 2011 - 03:16pm PT

Heels down, butt up.

The "butt up" biz does knott work on the hard stuff.

Herb Laeger did a route on Dome Rock called Just Barely which features a full on slab dyno. Thank goodness that move is reasonably well protected. Actually it's perfect, if you miss it you won't get creamed but you will take an honest fall.

edit:

just don't get on some routes on some days

Now that there is some sound advice...

YoungGun

climber

North

Nov 23, 2011 - 03:25pm PT

Here's Beth Rodden on the Kauk Slab (V7/8):

http://vimeo.com/32117058

I saw Dave Graham doing V11 slab in a film. Anybody remember this?

klk

Trad climber

cali

Nov 23, 2011 - 03:35pm PT

yeah, the vid is of dg repeating one of the many hard slabs at fontainebleau.

vitaly, honestly, climbing roped slab routes is far and away the slowest, least time-efficient way to improve slab skills unless yr major problem is lead head.

mileage is as always the answer: boulders for the hard climbing. santee, woodson, jt, rubidoux, juniper flats, county park, black mountain-- socal has miles of it. norcal its mostly at high els, although valley bouldering has tons esp. if including the middle cathedral traverse which is brilliant if it isnt snowed in. and cold is fine, since you have several hundred feet to traverse and wont be stopping to pro or belay. there's also a bit of slab bouldering at both csrp and i-rock, although limited and not as varied as what you can find in socal.

then the summer mileage-- unless you deliberately work to avoid it, much of the high country from yosemite north should involves miles of 3rd, 4th and easy 5th class slab in yr approach shoes and pack. but it sounds you've already been doing that and are more worried about the technically difficult stuff?

Branscomb

Trad climber

Lander, WY

Nov 23, 2011 - 03:41pm PT

Remember foonting? Like Flaky Foont below The Mouth on Glacier Point? Rather close to floating upwards until you make the mistake of letting consciousness intervene.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 03:42pm PT

If you're in the Camp 4, the Glass Pyramid face is a great boulder on which to play, but even it faces north so it can be awfully cold on a cold winter day.

The Cookie sheet is warm, but most of the routes are not particularly difficult.

The Royal Arches slabs are great, and range in difficulty from relatively moderate but runout (e.g. Arches Terrace regular route) to quite difficult.

Tollhouse is a great place to play on slabs, as is Joshua Tree. My only issue with the latter is that the rock is so rough that you miss the glass-like feeling of the tougher slab climbs.

Have fun, and remember Guido's advice.

John

Gary

climber

That Long Black Cloud Is Coming Down

Nov 23, 2011 - 03:49pm PT

Runout slab is definitely a mind game. It'll make your brain explode just below an anchor, knowing that there is a 70 foot fall there and you have one more move to the anchor...

some slabby 5.10 cruxes with runouts on high Sierra peaks

Such as?

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2011 - 03:51pm PT

should involves miles of 3rd, 4th and easy 5th class slab in yr approach shoes and pack. but it sounds you've already been doing that and are more worried about the technically difficult stuff?

Exactly. I feel like there is a huge difference between slab. When it is 3-5.5 I feel ok to solo most of it. 5.7-5.8 however I can do when it is well protected. I feel it is difficult for me on lead and following. 5.7 on snake dike was easy even on lead on my first ever longish multy pitch. Some random 5.7 in Toulumne I TRd across from Pywiack dome was a real challenge even on TR. It is freaking weird.
Slab is not my passion. Climbing in general is, especially peaks. Which involves cracks, chimneys, face, slab etc etc. I like to climb whatever (even bouldering) and improve all. I would never even consider only climbing slab for a whole season.
I know there is a 5.8 slab route at Sugarloaf. But that 5.8 is way different that some other stuff in toulumne..

No other particular routes for spring/summer in Tahoe? I want to find some sustained 5.9 slab route I can TR 20 times to run my miles and attempt different variations etc..

henny

Social climber

The Past

Nov 23, 2011 - 03:53pm PT

honestly, climbing roped slab routes is far and away the slowest, least time-efficient way to improve slab skills

mileage is as always the answer: boulders for the hard climbing.

Spoken like a true boulderer.

Although true.

Undoubtedly the bouldering helps and yields faster results, but you need to do both. Somehow, things can change when the moves are in the sky and not off the ground. Seek balance (assuming there's an interest in routes.)

Of course, klk wasn't really implying otherwise, I just decided to poke at him. I even truncated one of his quotes slightly to twist it... hehe

JT can have some pretty slick slab climbing, similar to better (did I say that?) granite. Just gotta know where it is.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2011 - 03:55pm PT

Such as?

I really want to do this route some day. Looks nice.

http://www.summitpost.org/white-peregrine-s-5-10c-iii-granite-park-spire-ffa/427267
pitch 5

The incredible sphincter puckering runout Crux pitch. From the Pro belay, traverse left 30’ on 5.10a face/slab moves through a series of vertical shallow unprotectable cracks to a small stance just right of the corner which heads out to the blank east golden face and directly below the only possible protectable 5.10a vertical crack.

Obviously I have a lot of improving to do before I get anywhere close to it.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:03pm PT

Three things that get me up harder slab:

1. Stand up straight, straighten your leg and stand up, don't leave your butt stuck up in the air.

2. Place your foot in exactly the right place the first time and then NEVER move it.

3. If the holds are really tiny, some make believe is a good thing, it's a powerful tool to get you past some of those cruxes.

Branscomb

Trad climber

Lander, WY

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:18pm PT

It's been a while, but I liked the following slab climbs at the Leap and other Hy50 places when we lived in Placerville:

Hogsback:
Wave Rider....8 (some people call it 5.6 today, phew!)
Red's Delight....9 (not a lot of 5.9, but good and nicely protected with small wires)
Settle Down........9 (gotta settle down)
Dancing Feet......10d (considered a terror route by many and it seems a bit contrived next to Deception Direct, but some good spacy friction out there. Well, I liked it any way. Save this one for later on.)

Hogwild:
Prociutto.........10c (70', nicely protected with 3/8" bolts. A real nice Petch route.)

Sugarloaf:
Sugar Plum........11a (in Carville's book, short and well bolted)

Cosumnes Gorge:
Grandpappy......9R (I've heard a rumor that the 1/4" buttonheads from 1978 have been replaced, but...? Good route though, if I say so myself).
Gutenburger Wall....8 (well bolted with new bolts)
Straight up the Line.....9 (well bolted with new bolts)
Lichen Us.....9 (well bolted, new bolts)

Echo Lakes:
EBs Wall.......10b (remember this as pretty run out)

Hope this helps.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:22pm PT

Henny wrote

Execute

Ha! Pretty much sums it up. Remember, one member of the firing squad is firing a blank...

d-know

Trad climber

electric lady land

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:22pm PT

stinkbuggin'
rools!!!

what's yall's
favorite
slab shoe?

past and present.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:25pm PT

EB's, Scats, and Scarpa Dominators. All most excellent.

d-know

Trad climber

electric lady land

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:28pm PT

yo beev.
i remember you
from the old
"front" days.
glad to hear
yer gettin'
back after it.

edit: those dominators
were the shizzle.

Gary

climber

That Long Black Cloud Is Coming Down

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:28pm PT

favorite
slab shoe?

La Sportiva Megas. Yeah, I know, board lasted isn't supposed to work on slab.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:31pm PT

Sportiva Black Tao's. I have a pair that I got resoled with XS Edge and wore them on the Bachar Yerian last year. Still a great shoe. My more modern pair are Sportiva Trad Masters. I actually really like Five Ten Newtons for anything upto about 11c. After that the rubber is too soft and rolls.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:32pm PT

Kaukulators,
TC Pros

slabs are cool, like half an offwidth!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2011 - 04:33pm PT

Branscomb, THANK YOU A LOAD! Cosumnes is a great place, I like it a lot. But I was mostly interested in cracks there before. That 10c face climb to the right (on the arete) of Test Piece kicks my ass. Has some slab moves.

You think it sucked climbing slab for me because I tried it with really tightly fitted LS Muiras?

cragnshag

Social climber

san joser

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:38pm PT

Parkline Slab in Yosemite has many moderate and harder slab climbing. It's South facing and only at 2500' elevation so you can climb all winter, so long as it's sunny out. Free camping nearby at the litterbox. Check the weather forecast for El Portal, CA to see conditions for Parkline.

It's inside the park boundry, but you park before you reach the entrance station- so no fees, rangers, or crowds.

henny

Social climber

The Past

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:42pm PT

Depends on the board-lasted bit. For steep micro edging they're the best bet - at least IMO. Pure friction/paddling, maybe not. But when you need to stand on true dimes or less, why make it harder than it needs to be?

Assuming the definition of slab includes micro-edging and/or steep thin edging.

It doesn't seem to me that there are all that many really good edging shoes out there currently - for slab.

Branscomb

Trad climber

Lander, WY

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:46pm PT

Miuras work fine for me but have to take them off at every belay to ease the pain. I like Mythos a lot (more comfortable for those long pitches) and Anastazi slippers. Fitted snugly the Anastazis work quite nicely.

But, geez, we somehow struggled up these things with EBs and then Fires so the new shoes and C4 Stealth seem pretty nice. I think Bachar said something about having comfortable shoes, not just super tight so you're not distracted by the pain. Probably some of the best advice there is right there, from a true master.

d-know

Trad climber

electric lady land

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:49pm PT

half an offwidth

i dig it.

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:53pm PT

At what point does a slab no longer become a slab. All routes at Devil's Tower are slabs to start out and basically none are overhanging for very long.

henny

Social climber

The Past

Nov 23, 2011 - 04:59pm PT

Right. Slab seems to be a definition that is endlessly debated to ridiculous lengths. When is it slab, when is it face, at exactly what angle does it switch from one to the other? And on and on...

One would think it actually mattered.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 23, 2011 - 05:00pm PT

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/219262/Difficulty-of-Slab-Climbs

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Nov 23, 2011 - 05:06pm PT

I like the always tricky deceptively steep hanging slab. Esspecially on ice climbes. Ussually gets a + rating.

murcy

Gym climber

sanfrancisco

Nov 23, 2011 - 05:26pm PT

That 10c face climb to the right (on the arete) of Test Piece kicks my ass. Has some slab moves.

The route is "Adhesion". The crux is a sort of lie-back off a big side-pull edge with smearing feet. Yeah, you don't want tight bouldering shoes for that one.

John Butler

Social climber

SLC, Utah

Nov 23, 2011 - 05:34pm PT

Place your foot in exactly the right place the first time and then NEVER move it.

Yes... find the next foothold with your fingers, then stick it and don't move it until you've found it's next placement. The guy searching around for a foothold with his foot on thin slab is about to fall...

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Nov 23, 2011 - 06:37pm PT

Ya Bob, I was wondering how long it would take for someone to mention Parkline.

Winter + slab = Parkline

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2011 - 06:50pm PT

murcy, yes it is Adhesion. For me the crux is something different though for some reason. I probably do not have the right sequence or something.

Thank you for suggesting Parkline!

Nate D

climber

San Francisco

Nov 23, 2011 - 07:04pm PT

This one also has relevant reading/advice. And it strayed from just being Tahoe specific.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1576641/slab-practice-in-tahoe

KabalaArch

Trad climber

Starlite, California

Nov 23, 2011 - 08:17pm PT

IMHO, Royal Arches slabs are actually micro edging problems - with sometimes loose flakes, and a lot of wandering route finding. Midlife Crises was a note able exception, with very solid and consistently compact stone to put you in the zone where you're not so much looking up for crimps as watching your feet for divots and dishes.

Seems like, to me anyway, that pure glass is climbed in a very intuitive fashion. When you hit your groove, it's about repetitive flow.

In general, I've learned, like others, to keep your heels dropped, to max out rubber contact - no high stepping, unless you're on a really positive edge looking perhaps to initiate a mantle.

I try to align my center of inertia in a straight vertical line: shoulders over knees over your foot tips.

To repeat the foregoing, avoid any foot movement once placed on whatever unctious bump you find yourself on. This includes no foot movement within your shoe.

Pure friction, by definition, means that you will not see much in the way of edges for hands and your feets. "Foonting," as referenced, is about moving up more quickly than you slide back down. Plant your foot ball and bridge pretty much square to the fall line, flat palms just above your shoulders. Move with a deliberate commitment, bear down hard on that foot - hands are for balance only, and not for cranking upward progress. Move at a consistent and rhythmic cadence...do not rush through the easier sequences.

I've found slabs, of which I've been accused of being a bit of a technical specialist, can be very draining psychologically - and this is without the run out factor. Personally, it seems to demand so much intense focus, to chose the optimum dish, divot...the lowest angled aspect of the thousands of options for any given sequence...and, for that matter, move, that I tend to tire mentally long before depleting any physical strength reserves. After you've hit your sweet spot and rhythm, it seems, at least personally, that I become mentally fatigued. At first, the sequence of moves stand out to me as if marked with a highlighter. After some time, ranging from a full day at a 5.9 level, to a couple of hours at 5.10, to maybe 45 minutes at 5.11-, it feels as if the line just merges back into the matrix of the stone, its secrets now reverted back to the blankness that gives this type of climbing its "fly on the wall" characteristic which I find so appealing.

I mean, with all due respect to the crackmasters whose techniques leave me stonewalled at easy 5.10, aesthetically, a crack follows an obvious line (of greater or lesser weakness)...but a pure, steep, slab is a Sphinx.

Constructive practice suggestion:
-Boulders: There are a few lowballs out at the 'Milks. They are not really noteworthy enough for guidebook inclusion, because they're pretty easy, without appeal if you're looking to post high numbers. One is just up and climber's left of Pope's Prow, with a Left, somewhat longer Center, and a RH arete problem. They are only about 12-15 feet long or so. On the east face of Ironman is a short, modest 5.6 of a few low angle moves. Then there is the large boulder just a bit downhill and to the east of Ironman. Grant and I named its N Face "Memories of the Mirrors," we set a TR on the 45 foot N facing glass, due to the large horizontal OW which splits full length, about 8 feet above it undercut base...a slider from this wall could result in serious injury! There are at least 2 lines on this N Face; around to the E Face are 3 easy lines: left, center, and the NE arete (the easiest but most exposed and spectacular of the 3). The Bowling Pin's W Face offers some xnlt glass after a full stretch mantle crank. Others are out there, just obsure but for the looking - and you're looking for the glass, and not crystals.

Up at Tuolomne are a few for the looking. My favorite is a 15 foot south facing slab, right across from the Teneya Lake day parking, only 30 feet north of Tioga Rd. This is actually bulls eye edging, but certainly won't hurt your friction slab technique. If you can make it off the ground, then chances are good for a send. I fell once from midheight into a tuck and roll...so with a spot it should be quite safe.

Off season for now, but GPA offers The Goblet. Its RH side offers about 20 feet of 5.9 padding about...another 40 feet of soloing up an easy 4th dihedral, and you'll find a good stance to set up a TR of a 60 foot 5.6 slab, and this is a good place to take a g/f or your kids to run laps.

Crack Marginal is textbook; the Crack Right is kinda run.

In the Arches Terrace area is Midlife Crises (Morris/Franosch), between Friday the 13th and Greasy Butt Groove. For some geomorphilogical reason, its rock is atypical of the flakey stuff of the Royal Arches slabs, resembling the friction of, say, Stately Pleasure Dome, at least for the first 3 pitches I'm familiar with. Its upper reaches are only 5.9 - but without any intermediate pro; evidently sporty enough that I couldn't persuade their 1st ascentionist, my day's partner, to repeat the leads.

Back on GPA, The Smile (aka The Mouth) offers some classic glass. Never any harder than 5.9, the last pitch of this otherwise moderate 900 foot slab offers only one bolt. (actually, the topo shows 2, and I finally found the 2nd, a FP, further left and out of view around the corner while on rappel. Seems like 6 of one and a half dozen of the other to simply step it up and go directly up to the ledge from the 1st bolt)

Climbing up to the ledge connecting Monday Morning Slab to Point Beyond regular allows for a 5.11 slab TR. It's bolted and can be led, but why bother? Clearly established top down. And below, from the ground, is the perfectly glassy 1st pitch of the safely bolted Cold Fusion (5.10-). The next 2 pitches change character into trad pro, are easier, but are certainly worth doing...perhaps with the 5.11 TR as a warm-down.

Some Sport-pro-ed slab has appeared in The Meadows. The 1st pitch of Zee Tree seems hard for its lowly 5.7 grade, so the slab neophyte will appreciate all of the bolts. Either bail here, or plan on topping out on the headwall dihedral - which, I was to learn later, is best climbed OW than as the lieback mentioned in the Guidebook. The Boltway leads off the top of Hermaphrodite. Beginners might try and edge it...until they soon realize that all they have to do is just plant a big flat foot in all of those dishes.

As far as the Owens River Gorge is concerned, there are about 3 or 4 quality slab leads; .10a to .10c. Last time my son and I visited the very short .10c to the right, Hank LeVine's original bolt, what is supposed to be the 2nd bolt, failed under my son's body weight (after I'd taken a short leader fall on it); this resulted in a groundfall with my bodyblock belay helping mitigate injury among the talus at the base. Since this bolt protects a cruxy bit, it should needs be replaced, if it hasn't yet.

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Nov 23, 2011 - 08:29pm PT

.but a pure, steep, slab is a Sphinx.

or a chess match with an invisible master.

(better be thinking a few moves ahead)

Thomas

Trad climber

The Tilted World

Nov 23, 2011 - 08:30pm PT

"Donini's analysis is correct as far as it goes, up to about 5.11 or so depending on the individual.

Really hard slab climbing (Ron Carson and Tony Yaniro's routes on Dome Rock at The Needles come to mind, and a few things up at Courtright,) require an entirely different technique.

No longer can you improve your footwork or science out your shoes. Crimping the thinnest of edges will, by itself get you nowhere either.

Essentially your entire body becomes like a hand. You develope an ability to attain contact strength through a tension between hands and feet so that your body as a whole grips the stone. When you go to move one point of contact, the others maintain that grip or you fall.

Similarly to the way you adapt your grip to different handhholds, jams, etc., on the hardest power slabs you must adapt the way in which your body holds onto the rock.

True masters of this technique are able to climb this way while using their full range of motion, in other words having the power and flexibility at once."

That is some of the best climbing technique advice that I have seen in quite some time. Useful, poetic, inspiring...tomorrow I will go and throw myself at some steep slabs just to stay in the loop.

Thank you!

perswig

climber

Nov 23, 2011 - 08:31pm PT

My slab mentality is usually "Keep moving".

Dale

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Nov 23, 2011 - 09:20pm PT

I really like Branscombs list but would like to expand on it a little.
In addition to his suggested routes I'd also suggest;

Sugarloaf,

Pan Dulce = More smedging than true smearing but is well protected. After the second pitch you can continue up two more pitches to the top at 5.10b/c (5.8r).

Gooney Dunes .10, Turning Point .10+, Fossilmax .9 and Sound of Perseverance .11a. Information for these routes and others at sugarloaf can be found here...http://hwy50climbing.com/sugarloaf.aspx

Also, one of the best venues for slab climbing anywhere near Tahoe is found at Calaveras Domes. Dozens of great slab routes to choose from. However, most are in the medium to difficult range and go from a little spicy to full blown nightmare.

There is another area near Tahoe that boasts the highest number of well protected slab routes north of Yosemite. Ranging from 5.6 to 5.12 on immaculate granite up to 5 pitches long. It's not a secret place by any means but it does duck below the radar a bit.

Looks like this,

Some of the routes can be a bit runnout though. Like, really run.

Edited to add; Hey bob, where is Sugar Plum??? The topo discription is pretty vague and I've never been sure which route it is.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 09:39pm PT

Back on GPA, The Smile (aka The Mouth) offers some classic glass. Never any harder than 5.9, the last pitch of this otherwise moderate 900 foot slab offers only one bolt. (actually, the topo shows 2, and I finally found the 2nd, a FP, further left and out of view around the corner while on rappel. Seems like 6 of one and a half dozen of the other to simply step it up and go directly up to the ledge from the 1st bolt)

The second bolt on the last pitch was missing for many years, and disappeared from the topo as well. But the location was given in the green Roper guide. Melissa found the hole where the bolt had been, and I found it again when I was on a rebolting mission with Roger. Roger replaced it and all the other bolts in 2009.

The second pitch has a 5.9 move with pro down below your feet, and if you fell, you might injure your ankle where you contact lower angle rock.
This may prevent it from being a route for working your way up the grades.
I aided it by throwing a hook to catch the flake just above it.

TrundleBum

Trad climber

Las Vegas

Nov 23, 2011 - 09:54pm PT

Keep your heels low.

tenesmus

Trad climber

slc

Nov 23, 2011 - 10:27pm PT

I got a lot out of trying hard slab boulder problems. Once my fingers couldn't handle the steeper stuff I would try the slabs over and over. Its amazing the confidence that the repetition of trying the hard moves can give you. You get to know the limits of your shoes, how to mantle and how to pulse through moves.

Cool stuff.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Nov 23, 2011 - 10:33pm PT

try to get a pair of Acopa Legends, if you fit them to your street shoe size they will be painful but amazing edging machines, a 3/4 length last gives you excellent control.

if you use them for all day, you need to go up a size from your street shoe, they will still edge great, but they become fantastic in cracks of all sizes (sizes limited only by your technique, not the shoe).

My favorite shoe right now for Yosemite.

johntp

Trad climber

socal

Nov 24, 2011 - 12:05am PT

Slabs are a mind game. Balance is crutial and weighting your feet is important. The runout routes at Suicide or Quartz teach you quick. It is finesse over brawn.

dogtown

Trad climber

Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.

Nov 24, 2011 - 01:04am PT

"Slide and glide and save your hide." Or just run east or west! Someone help me on this one, was it Hall of Mirrors the term and technique Foo-ching was first coined?

Middle Cathedral Apron is some of the best of this stuff anywhere.

Sioux Juan

Big Wall climber

Costa mesa

Nov 24, 2011 - 05:17am PT

slab is all I can do anymore
; like sidwalks and the shower pan ( yuh ! know what I mean )....P. B.

Rattlesnake Arch

Social climber

Home is where we park it

Nov 24, 2011 - 06:09am PT

Toproping slabs is so much different than leading them. Mileage gained by TR on slabs seems to have limited value, say compared to cracks.

gonamok

climber

dont make me come over there

Nov 24, 2011 - 06:51am PT

Mark critical footholds with a dab of chalk before you start into a desperate slab sequence, so you can see them from above and hit em without fishing around. One skill that needs to be honed is edging technique, or the art of putting your shoe on the hold with great precision every time.

A really good slab climber uses his feet surgically. You cant do the heinous if youre skating around or placing and replacing your feet. Hit it right the first time, crank off it and keep moving.

And no stinkbugging - straighten those legs and stand on the holds

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2011 - 11:54am PT

WOW thank you guys, I have advice for years to come! Happy Thanksgiving to all as well.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Nov 24, 2011 - 12:25pm PT

The sandstone at Castle Rock is pretty good slab practice. Get on some of the .10's or higher for practice to attain .9's in the Valley or Meadows.

Castle Rock is NOT runout at all, but is good practice for footwork and 'palming' with yor hands.

Aquarian Valley has some real slab gems as well. Prolly the best in the Bay in my opinion.

Branscomb

Trad climber

Lander, WY

Nov 24, 2011 - 01:06pm PT

Salamanizer:

Sugar Plum is a bit hard to find between Sugar Bun and where the hill starts up to the main rock. The route faces east on a smooth slab. I think it was a bit SE of Mid Way Rock. Sorry I can't remember more specifically.

yosemite 5.9

climber

santa cruz

Nov 24, 2011 - 01:28pm PT

To me, the key is having super sticky rubber. I use the Stealth C4 from the Rubber Room and my feet stick like glue. It gives me super high confidence. I love Sportiva shoes, but I replace their rubber with Stealth C4. The Rubber Room does a fantastic job of resoling climbing shoes. All three pairs of my climbing shoes have been resoled by them, including a brand new pair and a very old pair of Sportivas several times.

Matt M

Trad climber

Alamo City

Nov 24, 2011 - 02:37pm PT

C4 can be amazing in cooler temps but god help you if the rock gets remotely warm. Especially if you have to do any serious edging. I've found that soft C4 rolls right off warm edges/rock.

In cold weather the C4 seems to stick to ANYTHING you want to smear on.

Recently, I've been REALLY impressed with the Vibram XS Edge. Really seems to like slabs.

John Butler

Social climber

SLC, Utah

Nov 24, 2011 - 03:03pm PT

yeah... gotta have C4 in the cool and XS Edge when it warms up... that's the ticket

:-)

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Nov 24, 2011 - 03:51pm PT

I love slab climbing and have for four decades!

My advice is to spend time on the Apron working through the grades. The normal rules of climbing don't apply there...

I was doing Flakey Foont a very long time ago and slipped on a bit of grit stepping up into the drilling stance for the first bolt 50' off the deck. I geek skiied on down for about forty five of that when my EBs began to squeak and I slowed to a halt five feet off the ground!

The full-body, four point of contact awareness and mental poise will serve you very well venturing onto steeper edge and dish climbing on Middle Rock or TM.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 24, 2011 - 03:59pm PT

I think that slab climbing is difficult and requires developing special techniques which require a lot of practice. When I encounter slabby climbing on mult-pitch routes I manage to muddle my way thru- just! Perhaps if I lived in Cali I would, by necessity, climb more on slabs. I always respect all around climbers the most. If I have an Achilles Heal in climbing- slabs are it.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2011 - 04:26pm PT

My advice is to spend time on the Apron working through the grades. The normal rules of climbing don't apply there...

What do you mean?

I always respect all around climbers the most.

+9999999999

Being one dimensional does not work in the mountains!

hairyapeman

Trad climber

Fres-yes

Nov 24, 2011 - 04:41pm PT

Tollhouse rock is full of slab climbs rated from 5.6-5.11!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Nov 24, 2011 - 07:58pm PT

That you can fall and stop yourself, for instance...

Truthdweller

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Nov 24, 2011 - 10:22pm PT

Runout on slab, is there anything else?

I found that one key element for slab climbing is the break-in of the new rubber which we call, "baby rubber." When the shoes first come out of the box the rubber has vertical groves (heel to toe) ground into them from the manufacturing process. For slabs, you need for those vertical groves to be eliminated, and for horizontal "scales" to develop. This occurs over a relatively short time especially if you're climbing slab already. When this baby rubber is gone the shoes double their performance for friction. A flatter, less tight shoe, as opposed to an aggressive, tight, down turned shoe, performs much better, for you can drop the heel and get a greater amount of rubber on the rock, hence better friction. Pick on Henny's brain for impeccable technique! I've been told by the master that I have a pretty high-speed pair of Scarpa's, I couldn't agree more!

Hey Henny, do you remember the style of Scarpa I have, the purple ones with green eyelet strips. I keep forgetting.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Nov 24, 2011 - 11:09pm PT

Marc Leclerc on a 5.12 slab in Squamish

Heels down definetly does not apply on the harder stuff.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Nov 24, 2011 - 11:18pm PT

If you are edging, obviously not. But if you are working dishes or scoops, even on steeper angled terrain, lifting your heels certainly doesn't help purchase or traction. The more difficult the moves; the more precision, careful weight distribution and deliberate momentum are required.

Lots of variables which is the beauty of it...

Truthdweller

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Nov 24, 2011 - 11:35pm PT

Yep, I just ticked, for the first time, a "hard" Santee friction problem on the No Hands Traverse boulder, which, although steep, required me to keep my heels out, perpendicular to the rock, and smear a shallow, toe-sized pocket, keeping my butt out over my heels. Keeping your hips close to the rock, as is required when edging, is definitely out!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Nov 24, 2011 - 11:38pm PT

It is far less fatiguing to stand on the outside of your foot than on the inside of the great toe and easier to maintain inward pressure on your holds. A great footwork tip from Slab Master Kevin!

Play around with your boot orientation to get the most from your edges and spread the wear around.

mctwisted

Social climber

slacker city

Nov 25, 2011 - 12:06am PT

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Nov 25, 2011 - 12:13am PT

Tasty lookin' McNubbins too!

henny

Social climber

The Past

Nov 25, 2011 - 11:13am PT

Gary, not sure I remember exactly, but I think you have a pair of Phantoms.

I have a preference for Scarpas because they fit my foot well. Older models that is, since I don't think they make a good edging shoe anymore.

bob

climber

Nov 25, 2011 - 11:25am PT

Big Mike "Heels down definetly does not apply on the harder stuff." I agree unless its all going to sh#t and you just gotta start running to hope for the best! I want all the rubber I can get when things get that bad! :)

Warbler : Had to use that technique on some route up there in Tenaya!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob J.

John Duffield

Mountain climber

New York

Nov 25, 2011 - 11:33am PT

Slabs are an excellent mental exercise V-Man!! Esp at this point at what looks like to be an excellent climbing career for you.

On other climbs, you may have that bomber hold here and there. The one that lets you mentally relax. A slab, you may be at your mental edge for hours. No let up. Having to counterintuitively push against the rock. When the organism wants to cling to it. Putting your hands upside-down! Proper foot placement. Really great mental training.

The fact that you start this thread, would seem you've grasped this. Good for you.

guyman

Trad climber

Moorpark, CA.

Nov 25, 2011 - 11:43am PT

Slab climbing is becoming a lost art.

Lots of climbers today just wish to go to where it's steep and the holds are huge.

I love the climbs at the ORG that have slab moves at the top.

Those last 25 feet of 10d can really mess with your 12a redpoint!!!!

Vitaly you don't really need any TIPS on the subject.

Just get out and find some low angle slick stone, with tiny holds and climb.

This thread is missing photos:

This Dude is really showing the "I don't know what is keeping me here...but I should just keep on moving up... hopefully it will get better.

This over weight dude is Stinkbugging. Looks so low angle, not worth really climbing.

This is how the bolts get there.

Some pretty great slabbin up ahead.

This is a Slab.... do this one.

I always think that there are only Two types of climbs.

The ones you can do and the ones you cant do.

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:04pm PT

this slab was talking to me.
it was pretty cordial, as slabs go.

John Duffield

Mountain climber

New York

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:53pm PT

At one point, I counted 13 boats pulled up to watch.

hairyapeman

Trad climber

Fres-yes

Nov 25, 2011 - 03:01pm PT

At one point, I counted 13 boats pulled up to watch.

WOW! Where is this? Courtright?

gonzo chemist

climber

Fort Collins, CO

Nov 25, 2011 - 04:09pm PT

Tips (5.10a) on Daff Dome, South Flank.

I guess its not so much a frictions slab as just a bit of technical edging.

My first ever slab lead was Reality Check on Silver Cascade Slab in CO Springs. What an eye opening experience!

John Duffield

Mountain climber

New York

Nov 25, 2011 - 04:18pm PT

WOW! Where is this? Courtright?

Lake George New York

Not quite all of the cool stuff is in California :)

Just most of it.

We canoed in and snorkeled after. I need to dive some of those old wooden wrecks.

[url="http://www.lakegeorgemirror.com/news/2010/04/new-documentary-on-lake-george-shipwrecks-released/http://"]http://www.lakegeorgemirror.com/news/2010/04/new-documentary-on-lake-george-shipwrecks-released/http://[/url]

Roger Breedlove

climber

Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Nov 25, 2011 - 07:25pm PT

George Meyers on Freewheeling FA

About here:

Roger Breedlove

climber

Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Nov 25, 2011 - 09:06pm PT

Kevin Worrall. FA of Ugly Duckling

Not great pictures, but the real deal.

Roger Breedlove

climber

Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Nov 25, 2011 - 09:45pm PT

That day that you and George were getting up the first pitch of "Ugly Duckling" I was walking by and just assumed that it was my turn next. I remember two things: the giant flapper I cut into my finger on the razor sharp, sloping hold just a few moves up, and the sense that it was your climb and you didn't want any help for anyone else, especially someone as 'old' as me--I was probably 24.

First time as a climber that I felt the passage of time and place.

Great times.

The pictures of George on Freewheeling you asked about are on my trip report:

Freewheeling La Direttissima per Ora Dove in b/w; Oct 1973

PhilG

Trad climber

The Circuit, Tonasket WA

Nov 26, 2011 - 12:07am PT

If I might add to this thread. I lift my glass to this man: John Gosling

His friendship and love of slab climbing enabled me to get up some beautiful routes.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Nov 26, 2011 - 12:47am PT

Oh wow! The Ugly Duckling.

Climbed that route a couple years ago and was really surprised to find such a decent thought provoking route I actually enjoyed on such a pile of a rock.

If it weren't for those horribly rotten bolts, I might have enjoyed the route a bit more. If I weren't already pretty committed by the time I reached the first bolt, I probably wouldn't have continued. I've been meaning to replace them since. Perhaps I'll finally get to it this year. Until then, I wouldn't recommend a repeat.

LeeBow

Trad climber

Victoria BC

Nov 26, 2011 - 03:47am PT

Oh cool slab climbing...my favorite!

So check this out...I got a pair of super stiff sport shoes and I actually front point on crystals...sorta like ice climbing...can't pad or smear...only works on hard stuff...too painful for sub ten

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

Nov 26, 2011 - 04:44am PT

Trippy to see pics of the fa of Ugly Duckling, as I generally trace my suspect begin-ings back to it. Bouldering the first ten feet in like '76 or something.

doughnutnational

Gym climber

its nice here in the spring

Nov 26, 2011 - 09:49am PT

I like the picture of Kevin Worral standing on his outside edge.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 26, 2011 - 12:21pm PT

I did the UD with Eric (Weinstein) in 1976 or so, and we quite enjoyed it. I got the first pitch, which apart from the start was easier than expected, although you had to keep your eyes open. Eric got the more interesting second.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Nov 26, 2011 - 04:16pm PT

Shakey Flakes 90ft of 5.9

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Nov 26, 2011 - 05:32pm PT

Pure slab climbing is fun until it gets too steep and you fall off.

cragnshag

Social climber

san joser

Nov 26, 2011 - 07:55pm PT

KabalaArch

Trad climber

Starlite, California

Nov 26, 2011 - 07:56pm PT

freedom through motion...the vertical ballet...let the stone teach you to climb.

If there are crystals, or edges, then it's not pure friction - but it's still slab.

Poor upper body strength to weight ratio might seem to favor slab.

But when the slab kicks up to 5.11+, it's no holds barred.

My 2nd 5.11 slab lead was Ephemeral Clog Dance on GPA west. My first TR was courtesy Burk, in EBs, then rated 11.d, in the late '70's. On another occasion, Burk, Carter and I sent it as a twilight turning to nightfall...it's only about 75 feet long (or was until some self anointed Crag Cop chopped the 1st and original stance of what was originnaly established as a 2 pitch route which joined Chiropodist's Shop, later to be joined by The Token (Burk/Kabala- 1982)

Clog Dance is mostly about dime's edge yarding. Think OW or tips are the only opportunities for injury during the crank?

Clog Dance actually offers a few crux opportunities.

The second most and upper crux presents itself after the top bolt. You are still some 25 or 30 feet below the stance, vertically, but you must traverse climber's left about 10 feet to regain the fall line. With no feets, my solution invoved a wide Gaston, thumb set vertically on vertical credit card edges, right thumb up; left thumb down - an Iron Cross.

The first attempt resulted in a 30-footer, and on 70 to 80 degree rock, this is not a slider management situation.

This fall was an unpleasant one; retreating to the last bolt for a lowered retreat would have entailed another.

Completing the iron cross would have allowed another stretch to a 1 inch mantle, and from my feet on that, another full body mantle onto a 2 inch mantle...setting me up for one more body mantle into the 1 foot alcove of the stance.

Since a swing in either direction lacked appeal, I gave another go, and latched the first of the 3 mantles.

Problem was, I'd paid for my first iron cross with a subluxion of my right shoulder just barely on the good side of a dislocation. Meaning, specifically, that any weight whatsoever on my bum shoulder pulled this bone of of its socket - painful to be true, but definately not conducive to my better climbing efforts.

Such as it was. I pulled through each successive mantel, with just my good LH shoulder.

Remember, with each mantel I was that much further out from my last, horizontal, piece. Blowing the final pull into the stance would have occasioned a crater of some depth.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Nov 26, 2011 - 09:16pm PT

So what is the world's largest slab?

I've heard rumours of a 5000-footer on Thunder Dome in the Nirvana Range, south of the Unclimbables

Wade Icey

Trad climber

www.alohashirtrescue.com

Dec 22, 2011 - 11:35am PT

skating on stilts

Powder

Trad climber

SF Bay Area

Dec 22, 2011 - 11:37am PT

I love slabs (low angle, that is, for now >:)

~_~

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber

Bolinas, CA

May 12, 2013 - 01:37pm PT

Tuolumne's opening/opened soon so I thought I'd bump...

snowhazed

Trad climber

Oaksterdam, CA

May 12, 2013 - 04:12pm PT

Did you just say 'slabstacy'?? :)

sac

Trad climber

Sun Coast B.C.

May 12, 2013 - 04:23pm PT

Synchronicity

Trad climber

British Columbia, Canada

May 12, 2013 - 04:37pm PT

Slab climbing was definitely my weakness for a number of years early on, maybe not weakness, but rather something I avoided. I hate low angle falls, and was always afraid I'd take a big skidder. We don;t have much granite here so I made it a point to try and work on slabs when I've been to Squamish, and I'm starting to embrace the art. I think a lot of people in my generation got too stuck on sport climbing and modern routes, which is sad, slab climbing is becoming a lost art.

Like anything else though, it must be trained with frequency I found, getting on a hard slab after a few months off is a daunting adventure.

We have a big multi-pitch face/slab wall locally here that I used to get over my fear. Not pure friction for all the moves but you are on your calves the whole way. My bud took an 80 foot skidder there in a worst case scenario situation. Run out between bolts, he pulled up the slack to clip and blew his feet, the force caused the belayer to lose the rope from his hands for long enough to allow a pile of slack through. He grabbed whatever he could and arrested the fall with his bare hands, melting the skin.

Took both of them a few months to shake that one off...

Every time I'm out on that second pitch, I think about that fall and it makes me shudder...

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 12, 2013 - 09:03pm PT

Low angle stone delivers. Adventure, commitment, and most often quality. Some of the best days I've ever had climbing were stinkbuggin' on clean, smooth swaths of beautiful granite.
Especially when you cast off with a holstered hammer and fresh bits.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

May 12, 2013 - 09:30pm PT

I like slabbyness.

So what is slab? I've debated with various partners on this one before. I generally consider slab(at least on granite) to be anything less than vertical that doesn't climb a crack & has micro features & sh#t feet u need to stand on the whole time. Others would call this face for some reason & argue that slab is pure friction.

Is slab climbing defined by the angle of the rock or the style of movement? Or both?

Case in point, I call this slab? Do u?

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber

Bolinas, CA

May 13, 2013 - 01:49am PT

Hey Kenny, Great shots! Is Arm and Hammer one of yours? Don't have my guide book handy here. Where is it?
Tony

Stewart Johnson

climber

lake forest

May 13, 2013 - 09:33am PT

great shot of skiippy! thanks ken.

Leggs

Sport climber

Is this a trick question?

May 13, 2013 - 09:36am PT

This is a great thread ... and the humor injected throughout ... awesome.

Great photos... some of them take my breath away!

~peace

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 13, 2013 - 11:04am PT

Thanks Tony,
Arm and Hammer is near Olmetead point along with a handful of other routes not in any guidebooks.

Calaveras Dome is slab climbing heaven. Connect the dots climbing on diorite knobs and chicken heads that vary in size from peanuts to pumpkins.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

May 13, 2013 - 11:41am PT

slabolicious climbing located in L.A.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

May 13, 2013 - 12:39pm PT

UberBabs slabbin' in Josh...

Guy Keesee slabbin' at Dome Rock on Red Mushrooms...

Another good route on Dome Rock. Yaniro FA...

Gettin' skeered on a slab. That's John Stark belaying...

Slabbin' bitd...

gilly

climber

Mohawk Valley,Ca

May 14, 2013 - 12:27am PT

Richard Richardson - AKA DICK or Skippy to his comrads could climb more than just slab, but that was what he was very gifted at! Welcome was something else indeed in its day! He is always remembered to me for his vision and guts! Thanks Kenny

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

May 14, 2013 - 01:54am PT

slab "O" liciouse!

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 14, 2013 - 02:19am PT

Damn, been many years Gilly. Good to hear from you. Skippy was one of the best on those no falls slab routes. Especially at Cal domes. He loved that place. Miss him.

"Welcome to my nightmare" 511.b X is still one of the most serious slab routes in the Sierras. As far as I know Welcome has only seen two repeats to this day. One by Chris Vandevier and the other by Todd Worsfold.

Mad World 511+ R/X is another beautiful but serious route down there. Skippy and myself swapped leads on the FA in 1984. eight pitches of steep slab climbing, hand drilled from stances in a day and a half. The only repeat in almost thirty years was done by Todd Worsfold in 1990.

That canyon is a Mecca for high quality slab routes. It's a shame that slab climbing has become largely a thing of the past.

John Butler

Social climber

SLC, Utah

May 14, 2013 - 09:05am PT

Slabarama:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Or the first 4 tries here:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Jay Wood

Trad climber

Land of God-less fools

May 14, 2013 - 12:31pm PT

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

May 14, 2013 - 12:38pm PT

I don't know whether the Slab Daddy has entered the room, or knott.

Slab Daddy

Those hole drilling freaks have put up another big one, Oso Rodeo, which
is only about 19 pitches.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber

Bolinas, CA

May 14, 2013 - 01:21pm PT

Jaywood is a badass slabber! That middle picture is him at the top of the fifth pitch of Deep Throat on the GPA a few weekends ago. He was so engrossed on sustained 5.9 pure (and I mean pure) friction that he combined two pitches (the fourth and fifth. I had to remind him to clip the fourth pitch belay!), ran it past the only bolt on the fifth (note the lack of gear between us in the pic), went past the fifth pitch belay and stopped only after I told him I had ten feet of rope left! Nothing but about 140' of squeeky clean granite between him and a huge whipper. Thus he created a direct variation from the fourth to the fifth pitch. Good job man.....That climb could definitely make it on to the hardest five ten list anywhere in the world.

ydpl8s

Trad climber

Santa Monica, California

May 14, 2013 - 01:38pm PT

Field of Dreams - 5.11+R and Childhoods End - 5.12-R on Big Rock Candy Mtn. are about as good as it gets in Colorado.

http://mountainproject.com/v/106240773

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

extraordinaire

Dec 21, 2014 - 03:36am PT

... traversing the base of Middle Cathedral Rock.
--- I'm sure you could (climb) all the way to The Flakes and beyond....

A bouldering girdle of MCR would be awesome.
There was a similar (shorter for sure) traverse at the top of Swan Slab.
That was enough for me.

Urmas

Social climber

Sierra Eastside

Dec 21, 2014 - 08:59am PT

Kenny, thanks for the picture of Dick Richardson - slab master! I miss him too!!

skcreidc

Social climber

SD, CA

Dec 21, 2014 - 09:21am PT

Cool thread; I've already "wasted" houres on it.

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Dec 21, 2014 - 10:20am PT

WBraun

climber

Dec 21, 2014 - 10:31am PT

I've never been good a slab climbing.

I've been sandbagged told "this pitch is easy" you can lead it.

Those pitches ended up being the cruxes unknowing to me.

The only reason I didn't die is because I was too scared to die .......

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Dec 21, 2014 - 05:43pm PT

can any one I.D. this? Some how the stars all aligned,
scant tights and no top or a rag,
that made a better head band,
wrapped turban style,
than it did a shirt,
was the required climbers wardrobe for my trial by fire '80

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Dec 21, 2014 - 09:19pm PT

Stately Pleasure Dome in T Meadows?

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber

Bolinas, CA

Dec 21, 2014 - 10:12pm PT

Bruce you are correct.....Footnote on Stately

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

extraordinaire

Feb 13, 2015 - 11:46pm PT

Somewhere in Indo (random FB photo)

Crump

Social climber

Lakewood, CO

Feb 14, 2015 - 08:14am PT

Love Slabs. A great place to work on your slabbing is Enchanted Rock down in Texas. Fall, Winter, and Spring!!

https://vimeo.com/23744926

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Feb 14, 2015 - 09:58am PT

Gotta keep a good thread alive. Jeez, it's even about climbing...

kaholatingtong

Trad climber

therealmccoy from Nevada City

Feb 14, 2015 - 10:28am PT

I loves me some slab.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Feb 14, 2015 - 10:32am PT

My least favorite type of rock climbing. Only do them when confronted with one on a multi pitch climb.

bob

climber

Feb 14, 2015 - 10:38am PT

Yummy.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Feb 14, 2015 - 10:39am PT

Same story the crow told me, It's the only one he knows, like the morning sun he comes and like the wind he goes. . . . .

I can post text but pics take more than 20 minutes to upload,

This thread and the slab work mentioned is an acquired taste, the short cool days right now are optimal for hard friction/slabs both in the southeast and the west.

Green Dragon to Mr Natural(great finger crack) then two more pitches of featured slab.?
On the glacier point apron(now seriously compromised by rockfall?)
I am sure that it all has names and grades ??( I will go look it up) But it will be hours from now before the edit/add step so if someone wants to jump in ?...
please.

Wade Icey

Trad climber

www.alohashirtrescue.com

Feb 14, 2015 - 01:03pm PT

Glass Action Suit bump

few laps on Crest jewel couldn't hurt...well maybe your calves.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Feb 14, 2015 - 03:31pm PT

Essentially your entire body becomes like a hand. You develope an ability to attain contact strength through a tension between hands and feet so that your body as a whole grips the stone. When you go to move one point of contact, the others maintain that grip or you fall.

Ah, I see what you did there. The technical description of stinkbugging.