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| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Mar 13, 2006 - 01:54pm PT
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One Word - Via Ferrata!
Juanito
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Wheatus
Social climber
CA
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Mar 13, 2006 - 04:11pm PT
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Mammoth Mountaineering Supply has a great (english) guidebook on the Dolomites. My friend and climbing partner was there last year in June. He said there is plenty of trad and sport climbs up to 16 pitches.
Mammoth Mountaineering Supply
Address: 3189 Main St, Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546
Phone: (760) 934-4191
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Mar 13, 2006 - 04:20pm PT
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Paul,
Was there many years ago. Fantastic place (Tre Cima Di Lavaredo that is). Great accomodations at the Mountain lodges at the base of Cima Ovest and Cima Grande. Many moderate full day climbs on the back of Ovest and Grande. I would personally recommend the Yellow Edge on Cima Piccola. A classic 5.9ish grade three with outstanding location. Have fun!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Mar 13, 2006 - 04:27pm PT
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The guide book "Classic Dolomite Climbs" by Kohler and Memmel is the best English guidebook. It has the best descriptions and topos and lists about 100 routes. Unfortunately, the book has been translated into about 2000 languages so the aforementioned 100 routes see a lot of traffic!
September can be both good and bad. Expect it to be 40's-60's for temps, could snow and some cracks may have ice. If you have never climbed in the Dolomites I would stay in Cortina and climb at the Cinque (now Quatro) Torre to get a feel of what you are in for. Via Miriam on the Torre Grande and the Dibona on the Torre Barancio are good warmups. There are some fun sport climbs over by the Via Miriam.
After that, depending if you dig the loose, sometimes runout rock or not, the sky is the limit.
Bruce
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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Mar 13, 2006 - 05:27pm PT
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Not to hijack the thread or anything but I am moving to a town a the north end of Cinque Terra (sp) and have seen talk of the climbing there. I have also found some Italian guidebooks but can you give more beta on the climbing in that area? I will be working in La Spezia but could live anywhere within short commute distance so I am trying to plan strategically now.
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james Colborn
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 13, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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Paul, I just returned from Italy, but not the Dolomites. If you have the time to visit the Italian Alps the climbing seems endless, and if its too cold in the Dolomites traveling to warmer areas in France is like driving from the bay to Tahoe. I had no climbing partner so I hired a guide, he was an incredible asset. Local knowledge is priceless. If you need some info or are looking to hire a guide I highly recommend him. Here's his contact info: Marco Ghiglia, tel. 347 4312673, 3474414310, or email, ilchiodofisso@libero.it
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 13, 2006 - 08:30pm PT
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You've got a lot of damn nerve posting a climbing thread, I'll grant you that...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2006 - 10:57am PT
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Go to San Gimignano, (near Sienna), and ask these Old Guys:
And do not miss out on Via Ferrata: =Adult Jungle Gym.
Yes, The "Yellow Edge" on Cima Piccola, one of the Tre Cime, is an excellent 9-12 pitch moderate. Check out the Tofana, near Cortina. You can drive near/within Eye Shot of most all the great formations: Civetta, Marmolada, etc.
Many great refugios or huts are available; you can drive, hike, even climb to some of them. The drive up ones in Cinque Terra (Now Quattro, near Cortina) may require reservation. Good sport routes here as well in the "Terra". Tofana is in Eye Shot from here and it has steep climbs as well as a Via Ferrata which goes through a tunnel.
We did a really cool Via Ferrata in the Sella Group, which takes you to a hut on top of a gargantuan pill shaped plateau.
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GAZ
climber
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Mar 14, 2006 - 11:25am PT
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Any Via Ferratas near Montepellier, France that anyone knows about?
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 14, 2006 - 11:59am PT
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Stuart Green has just published a guidebook to Europe that has a great overview section on the Dolomites. Also, James Goldsmith has written a really good area guide (not a climbing guide) called The Dolomites of Italy. It's out of print but some used ones are available on Amazon. Neither of these are comprehensive guides but I can't imagine one. Eash crag deserves its own guidebook!
Mal
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2006 - 12:49pm PT
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The Doli's are hot dang amazing for variety and access.
Imagine the various domes at jtree, but HUGE, made of limestone and beset, serviced, surrounded with a fabulous web of great touring roads, places to stay and eat Itlain cuisine from hefty Tyrolian fare up to multi star sit down affairs..
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Mar 14, 2006 - 01:08pm PT
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ask these guy
http://ukclimbing.com
they are closer to the dollies adn theres lots of info floating around
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 14, 2006 - 02:31pm PT
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What they all said, above!
The Dolomites are absolutely great. Great history, great environment, great food, great fun!
Tré Cima di Lavarado is a must, IMO. Spectacular scenery! Better earlier in the season, before the usual campsites get filled with human wastes and more abandoned tin cans. (Geez. Just like the French, the Italians really know how to junkout a nice place! Why can't they clean up like the Austrians? Stereotyping.)
If you get lucky with the weather, many things are doable. Comici Route on the Cima Grandé can be done with time to spare in a single day, even with a party of three. Many, many fixed pins, so little time is wasted with gear. Manky, rusted, ring pitons, but there ya go. Can be done mostly free and at reasonable standard (maybe 10b-10c or so). Steep! Via ferratas there too.
Northern Italy is great fun.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2006 - 05:38pm PT
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Yeah, Northern Italy, Piedmont, home of the best Nebbiolo in the world: "Barolo". Badass Mafia wine, dense, tarry, elegant fruit, decades of tannin ...
'Better get back to the Wine thread!
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Paul
Trad climber
Muir Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2006 - 11:48pm PT
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THANKS to all for the posts. And, it looks like all was covered: long trad routes, some boozing, great pics, and book recommendations. If anyone has any lodging recommendations, mucho appreciated. FYI - will be with the wife so none of my cave bivies fly with her. Can spend up to 140/Euro's per night. Hey, the wife's tough, but cocktail hour and a good crib are important!
Thanks again!
Back to the shenanigans.
Paul
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pciu
Trad climber
milan italy
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Mar 16, 2006 - 03:42am PT
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hi,
you should also go in the central alps,val di mello,at the border with switzerland.there you can go in val bondasca for the pizzo badile too.the north ridge or via cassin are so cool.more info on www.valdimello.it
ciao
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Nepal Planet Treks
Sport climber
Nepal
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Dec 13, 2018 - 01:55am PT
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