Tahoe ice ?

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 4, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
Does ANYONE remeber a vertical drool ,, somewhere in the cascade or emerald bay area fairly close above the highway (as i remember,)that was called either the "gravity tube" or the "inertia tube",,,it was about 75 feet of dead vert on gorgeous blue???


or,, am i have an errant flashback??;-/
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 4, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
It's described in the ice section of the Carville guide as "Inertia Tube".
I'm looking forward to some upcoming trips into that area looking for stuff to climb.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
hhmmm, musta missed that!- U talkin the Yellow Carville guide? Or that newer faclon crap pile?



found it,, thanks for the info ,,,,and yes my memory was correct! who woulda thunk it!? on of the most beautifull pieces of ice in the basin imo...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 4, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
PICTUREZ or it didn't happen!!!

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Lake_Tahoe/Emerald_Bay/Eagle_Creek_Ice_formations/Inertia_Tube_91037.html

http://www.aboutmyadventure.com/directories/misc/inertia_tube.htm
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
wish i could find them...udderwise i would have posted them already...But its like eight feet around at the base smooth as glass blue can be and tops out with a phat tree belay.. Take five screws from long to shorties and an old salewa "cork-screw" for added charm! Long slings for the anchor.,,or,, it dint happen..;-)


edit: the second link shows it in a FUNKY conition! But good find!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 4, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
More photos here:
http://home.comcast.net/~lzmaps/id10.html

Looks really cool. So does the other stuff.

Also I researched that there is supposedly "Maggies falls" 4 pitch wi4 in the gully on maggie's peak some times. I guess very rare. Would be awesome if someone posted photos of that!

Or any of your old/new Tahoe ice photos!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
there some old tahoe ice shots in the "golden age Tahoe region thread, and another thread about "kirkwood ice" you may want to check out!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 4, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
Thank you Ron. I need to look at those photos before I depart for Everest! Will make me tough.
IV

climber
tahoe
Nov 4, 2011 - 05:54pm PT
It was there last year. The screws might not be so bomber...
Inertia Tube
Inertia Tube
Credit: IV
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
it looks thinner these days...Has the drainiage been messed with one wonders?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 4, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
brian biega on maggies peak 1996?
brian biega on maggies peak 1996?
Credit: Stewart Johnson
the headwall on maggies in good nick.
IV

climber
tahoe
Nov 5, 2011 - 01:19am PT
OOOOH Boy
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 5, 2011 - 01:21am PT
tahoe ice?

harveys,
harrahs, thats ice,

cold hard ice water runnun thru the casino veins,


i'm a loser
ruppell

climber
Nov 5, 2011 - 01:25am PT
Ice climbing in California? Man I left the right coast to get away from that. Great pics though. Now where did I leave those tools? Nevermind gotta get some bouldering in before the masses arrive.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 5, 2011 - 10:34am PT
actually ron there was so much water on the inertia tube last year it got rinsed!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 7, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
grrrr, would be nice if people could post updates in this/or some other thread on conditions (when ice is in). But it is likely to get buried in tons of political crap.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 7, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
das beezer at the lounge
das beezer at the lounge
Credit: Stewart Johnson
well let you know when its good!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 7, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
the road outside my house has been good and icy today. have seen probably a dozen vehicles get squirlly going down or up today.

No climbing ice to report so far however.

edit: this thread is bookmarked, and I'll update if/when I find the goods.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 9, 2011 - 09:03am PT
dasbeezer on make my day.
dasbeezer on make my day.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 9, 2011 - 09:10am PT


DasStewie goes left on the right side...
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 9, 2011 - 09:21am PT
justin ( our green beret) nailing josey wales.
justin ( our green beret) nailing josey wales.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 9, 2011 - 09:37am PT


DrKoppe makes his way to the water ice high above the old Blyth Arena.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 9, 2011 - 09:40am PT


DasKoppe closing in on the key hole.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Nov 9, 2011 - 09:54am PT
Two Mules
Two Mules
Credit: Scott Thelen

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 9, 2011 - 11:11am PT
The guy on Sunny Falls sure likes to protect his climb
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2011 - 11:15am PT
Stewie,, too much water eh!?? perhaps the drainiage has been enlarged by erosion then?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 9, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
a huge flow last year,Ron. so much water that a proper pedastel never formed,
creating a possible dangerous situation! im still looking for pics...
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 9, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
Two confirmed recent sightings of ice... The Cross on Tallac is building. This next storm (weekend) might bury it or make it fatter.

There is definitely a pillar forming at the Leap between main and central walls. Not sure what it's called, but it's there.
Still snow on the ground here with lots of sun, good conditions for the formation of ice, if only we had some more precip.

Sweet pics everyone.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
Stewie,, it must have changed then- drainiage wise..It used to form nice slow and even...May have to recon it next spring to see the happenings with the drainiage..hehe IF i remember correctly,, that whole thing was enhanced somehow...
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Nov 12, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
Bump for nice pics and climbing content :)

Any pics or experiences from Eeyore's Fantasy at the leap? Skied up there once looking for it after a cold spell but found nothing... even more curious now.

Where on Maggie's Peak is that ice gully exactly? Quick description of approach?
NMR

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 17, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
Bump to see if anything is forming up?
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 17, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
The gullies on Maggies are really obvious from the north side of Eagle Creek Valley. I believe you just want to start up the valley like you are going to Eagle Lake and at some point veer off towards the base of the routes on the N. Face of Maggies. I do not say (type) this from experience, this is only conjecture.

It's been pretty warm this week. Tallac lost a lot of snow yesterday, but there is some more with cold temps in the forecast. So for ice around here, it's pretty bleak.

Apparently some of the mellower stuff is IN in Lee Vining
http://www.sierramtnguides.com/administrative/IceClimbingCaliforniaReportEastSierra.htm

Let's keep this thread alive. The first person to post pics of ice (WI) from this season should get a prize!

Edited to add: That Keyhole route above Squaw looks awesome. Where is it?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 17, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
try cascade falls bergboy. and whats the prize? a pitcher of margs? a new screw? a date with the coach?
the snowshed stranger
the snowshed stranger
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 19, 2011 - 12:30am PT
Yea we need to establish a Prize!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 19, 2011 - 10:11am PT
the voodoo lounge
the voodoo lounge
Credit: Stewart Johnson
ok, heres from last sunday. i prefer tequila.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 19, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
How about some Patron?

Looks like Stewie is the winner!

Cheers, Brian
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 19, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
Really from last sunday? where was that???
Sonic

Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
Nov 19, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
Is that snowshed from Donner?
IV

climber
tahoe
Nov 20, 2011 - 12:41am PT
Cascade falls, not in...
cascade falls 11/19/11
cascade falls 11/19/11
Credit: IV
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 21, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
Thank you for an update IV...


Anyone been up Eagle creek canyon last weekend? I was very close to driving up there for Sunday but the weather helped to keep me home (and a 4 hour drive one way)...
DS66

Mountain climber
Dislocated
Nov 26, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Pretty warm as of late in Tahoe. Anybody been down to Eagle Lakes area or the Cross on Tallac?
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Nov 26, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
This seems the be the Tahoe Ice corner. There are a couple earlier photos of what may be Maggies Peak (or something similar). Do any of you have recs on this kind of mixed route in the Tahoe basin? I've always climbed single pitch ice in Tahoe.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Nov 26, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
Thanks much. Now I just have to hope that my weekend corresponds with that short magical window.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
has anyone here ever done any of the flume leaks in the truckee canyon? They can be sporty!
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Nov 27, 2011 - 10:37am PT
Reno Ice skating get together tuesday night hahahahahahah!!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 30, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
Eagle lake area doesn't have any ice on the walls. Sunnyside ice has some tiny premature crap. I think it will be a while before these form up. Oh yea, approach really sucks past the lake. Boulders with dusting of snow on them.
Maggie's peak did not have anything that looked close to being ice formations...

Would be interesting to hear if someone goes up cross couloir on Tallac Sunday. Could possibly be something there..maybe...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2011 - 12:36am PT
When and IF it gets cold enough, long enough, I wish someone would go up and do the second ascent of Franktown falls in between little valley and franktown road in washoe valley.

Credit: Ron Anderson

Its about 130 to 140 long in all and starts out steep with bulges.The top is easy bulges... Its got to be COLD for this to freeze enough to not need an aqua-suit. Ive never known squat about ice ratings really,, some were hard, others werent as hard..It would be interesting to finally get a second opinion on this hidden lil bugger. The fa was in 78 by Paul Crafton, Al Case, and myself..I think it was 3(edited as i found the fa note) below that morning. The pic on the right is afternoon conditions which had changed already!It was however at the end of a cold streak and the day had warmed in little valley above and to the south.The falls themselves are in a tight rocky canyon facing nearly dead north..A cold dank spot in the winter! Belayer life will suck at the bottom, rap from trees on the west side of the vertical drop into the bottom... BE EARLY LOL!


there, ive OFFERED IT UP-with impotent beta,,,droolllldrooooolll!! Someone go bag it!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
lows in the teens this weekend 12 3/4 at the valley floors .....
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 5, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
I was in Lee Vining Friday and Sunday. Choinard falls were mostly in with some water running over ice, and some thin sections. Although not Tahoe, but still ice related.
Would love to see some recent pictures in Tahoe. Seems like things got colder, and are staying cold.
I wonder if that snow stuck to Mendel right...and if Lundy or Parker canyons would be real fun next weekend, i bet they will...some difficult decision making has to happen...
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 5, 2011 - 02:36pm PT
Hoping to get a better look at conditions around SLT a little later this week. Lows in the single digits the next couple nights. Sounds good for makin' ice.

I'd go check out that route of Ron's some time too. Looks fun (if you hit it early enough ;-)

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
okeedokee,,,To find franktown falls,,,take old 395 (Bowers mansion ) and turn onto franktown road at the north end, then fairly soon, turn onto "old ranch rd" to the right which winds up a hill into residences Near the top of a ridge. Find somewhere to park, and hike uphill over a short ridge and drop down into franktown creek drainiage. 4th class sections get you down to the falls. Franktown creek dumps out at the intersection of old 395 and franktown road, and it is that drainiage where the falls lie, basically due west from the residents at the top of old ranch road. The creek runs down from "little valley" on its north end.


with the lack of snow melt in the valley, it could very well get in season during this cold snap as the volume of water wont be so great!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 5, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
Vitaliy:

When was most recent snow? What were the subsequent winds and temperatures following that (timing is key!)?

Therein lies your answer.

Also, isn't the high country sugar snow over talus right now? I could be mistaken

Most recent snow was some time ago with about 2 ft or so, but as I remember it was cold and windy during that storm so maybe it didn't stick to the actual steep ice (that was in that couloir)...

There is no answer till someone goes to see it really...

Yes sugar snow over talus pretty much (varied by elevations and sunny/shady sections of course).
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Dec 5, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
Credit: Norwegian
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 6, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
V:

Another thing with the Mendel Couloirs is that often times it is the accumulation of snow at the top and the residual runoff from melting that causes the couloir to come 'in'

Is this advice from personal experience of climbing these?
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Dec 6, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
coldstream must be fat. rainbow is most likely in.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 6, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
norweigen, looks like polar chicken at the spur.
gimmeslack

Trad climber
VA
Dec 6, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
Dare I ask...

Will be in the valley in January. Any recommendations for good place where noobs could TR some WI w/out having to drive the loooong way around to Lee Vining? I assume most of high roads needed to get to east side will be closed...

I promise not to kick it all down :-))
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 7, 2011 - 11:11am PT
I heard Widow's Tears forms sometimes in the Valley...
gimmeslack

Trad climber
VA
Dec 7, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
Will I be able to TR that with my 50m static?













Actually looked at it last year. Can't begin to imagine... what a righteous line indeed!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 7, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
Got a nice ice bouldering session in, finding lots of different conditions to practice on...

thin stuff
Thin stuff
Thin stuff
Credit: bergbryce

frozen grasses
Turf
Turf
Credit: bergbryce

and even a big blob of plastic
Plastic
Plastic
Credit: bergbryce

Nothing to get too excited about but I got some sticks in and that's what mattered.
IV

climber
tahoe
Dec 8, 2011 - 01:02am PT
cascade falls 12/6/11
cascade falls 12/6/11
Credit: IV
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 8, 2011 - 11:12am PT
Awesome photos! Thanks for posting!!!!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 9, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
tis the season
tis the season
Credit: Stewart Johnson
this mornings romp!
IV

climber
tahoe
Dec 9, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
eagle falls base
eagle falls base
Credit: IV
2nd pitch eagle falls
2nd pitch eagle falls
Credit: IV
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 9, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
I can"t stop thinkin aboat dano.

Got to love this winter.

spray me.
Brian

climber
California
Dec 10, 2011 - 12:17am PT
Climbing thread bump.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Dec 10, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
Yup, red spur has some of the most reliable ice in the basin.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
Eagle falls? Is that sunnyside falls, just up from Eagle lake?
Any wi3 in mind that would be in good condition now?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 02:36pm PT
i believe thats down hill from the parking lot at emerald bay??,, we used to solo that BITD.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
Cascade is perfect for teaching folks to climb ice right now.
I'm also interested in something a tad steeper. I'm available later this week/weekend if anyone's interested.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 14, 2011 - 01:25am PT
Available to do Parker canyon on Saturday? Anyone?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 14, 2011 - 09:51am PT
try angora lakes, lake audrain.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 12:39am PT
Cascade is really nice right now...

Thanks for the beta!

Cheers, Brian
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 22, 2011 - 01:49am PT
http://unofficialnetworks.com/thin-snow-fat-ice-tahoe-lake-tahoe-ice-climbing-report-60425/

good report.

Anyone has pictures from other areas?
I went to Parker canyon and Lee Vining this last weekend. Parker was good, lee vining wasnt great for what it is supposed to be.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:52am PT
skating on stilts
IV

climber
tahoe
Dec 24, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
Anybody ever climb this cool ice curtain north of twin peaks?
little alaska drip
little alaska drip
Credit: IV
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 24, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
frazer falls
frazer falls
Credit: Stewart Johnson
in good nick now.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 25, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
Happy Holidays!

IV- Little Alaska looks nice! Is that at the top of Ward Canyon?

Stewie- Way to get out there on Fraser Falls. Can you drive all the way up?

Cheers, Brian
IV

climber
tahoe
Dec 25, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
ding ding ding correct. about half way between grouse rock and twin peaks
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 25, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
we walked brian, could make it with chains...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 25, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
neat!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 27, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
Hope our ice makes it through this warmup.
Lounge with variations.
Lounge with variations.
Credit: bergbryce
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 27, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
That thing looks like the town bike.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 27, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
It's certainly seen some love.
IV

climber
tahoe
Dec 27, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
sunny falls looked nice last thursdy
sunny falls
sunny falls
Credit: IV

climbingcoastie

Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 01:58am PT
I've got Thursday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday off and wanting to get out and see some of the ice in the area. I've been ice climbing for about five years and just moved to Sacramento this summer. The catch is, I can't climb as my wrist/arm is in a cast, but I'm willing to belay.

Hell, I'll even carry the rope, I just need to get out!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 28, 2011 - 02:18am PT
climbingcoastie, do you usually have those days off? This weekend I have some things planned, but maybe next, or one after you can join us...send me an email (xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com) and we can keep in touch...

Wish you a speedy recovery!
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Dec 28, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
Fraser Falls-up near Downeville? I always thought that soul be a good climb but never heard of anyone climbing it. What is the approach like?
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Dec 28, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
Cold Stream 12/26/11

Credit: Mick K

Credit: Mick K

Credit: Mick K

Credit: Mick K

Credit: Mick K

Credit: Mick K

Credit: Mick K


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 28, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
Holly crap, coldstream looks awesome. What are the directions to get there (never been)?
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Dec 28, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
Anyone know if Coldstream is accessible via mountain bike yet?
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Dec 28, 2011 - 05:42pm PT


Drive to the railroad tracks and it is 2.25 mile / 1+hour hike from there. Could bike on snow for maybe 1.7 miles but not sure it would be worth it.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Dec 28, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
Ice skaters were out on Caples Lake, Frog Lake and Winnemucca Lake this week. (Carson Pass)
Ice skaters on Winnemucca Lake. 26 December 2011   photo credit: Rick ...
Ice skaters on Winnemucca Lake. 26 December 2011 photo credit: Rick Nolting
Credit: HighTraverse
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 28, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
very ice
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Dec 30, 2011 - 10:58am PT
Here is Todd Offenbacher getting some at Cascade Lake last week

http://unofficialnetworks.com/line-week-ice-climbing-61852/

Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 30, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
"hey im going to the cantina , we can talk about me some more over there"
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 30, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
^^^^^^^^^Now that wasn't very nice Paul oops I mean Stewie.^^^^^^^
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 30, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
Hi Chris-

Nice article and photo (although the angle looks off).

Thanks for sharing!

Cheers, Brian
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 30, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
hang em high
hang em high
Credit: Stewart Johnson
fuc nice
IV

climber
tahoe
Dec 30, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
I'll take a long island ice tea...
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 4, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
snow lake
snow lake
Credit: Stewart Johnson
did a real fun wi3 flow above snow lake,in desolation.
approach.
approach.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
about an hour and twenty minutes past cascade falls.
simul solo.
simul solo.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
in desolation
in desolation
Credit: Stewart Johnson
oh i almost forgot,the ice was well you know..dreamy.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 4, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
So nice! So much ice...

Cheers, Brian
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 4, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
Whoa nice, so there is some stuff that has survived?? That's great seeing as how ski season is still nowhere in sight.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 4, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
yea well if you want your toilet to flush next year better start thinking
about having a snow dance /party.
Chester

Mountain climber
NY, New York
Jan 5, 2012 - 01:31am PT
Hi All,

I will be in Tahoe on the 10th to the 22nd of march. I am coming from Australia where we do struggle for decent ice and peaks.

a) What are my best options for close Ice - i don't have a car

b) am I better to forget ice as it's late in season, if so are there any peaks to climb nearby that are legally allowed to be climbed?

c) anyone keen to hook up for a day ascending a peak or ice climbing?
I can pay for fuel, lunch, beer. I will have all gear except rope and rock pro.

I am a WI3 - Wi4 ice climber and quite and experienced mtn climber

If anyone wants to ski I will be at Squaw valley most days

Hoping someone can help
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 5, 2012 - 09:42am PT
march can be snowy.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 7, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
The low angle stuff is still good to go and FAT.
Dixie approves.
Great day for a Tahoe winter biathlon too. Ice in the morning, sunny rock in the afternoon.
Low angle survived the warmup.
Low angle survived the warmup.
Credit: bergbryce
climbingcoastie

Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
Jan 7, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
Coldstream 07Jan2012
Coldstream 07Jan2012
Credit: climbingcoastie

Here's a pic of Coldstream from today.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 7, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Thanks for the update Coastie.
Welcome to California!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 7, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
le grand blue
le grand blue
Credit: Stewart Johnson
IV

climber
tahoe
Jan 7, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 15, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Surprised this wasn't on here somewhere, there was a casualty at Cascade Falls yesterday.
Not many details are available, it's only known that is was a 23 year old male from the Bay Area.

http://carsonnow.org/story/01/15/2012/bay-area-man-dies-near-lake-tahoe-ice-climbing-accident

Condolences to those involved. Check and double check and be careful out there.
squishy

Mountain climber
Jan 15, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Surprised this wasn't on here somewhere, there was a casualty at Cascade Falls yesterday.
Not many details are available, it's only known that is was a 23 year old male from the Bay Area.

http://carsonnow.org/story/01/15/2012/bay-area-man-dies-near-lake-tahoe-ice-climbing-accident

Condolences to those involved. Check and double check and be careful out there.

oh crap, who is it?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 16, 2012 - 09:19am PT
thoughts and prayers go out to the fallen ones friends and family.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 16, 2012 - 09:22am PT
My condolences to all the fallen climbers friends and family!

Regards, Brian

PS: Let's be careful out there and not get complacent with our surroundings...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 16, 2012 - 11:38am PT
Terrible! Sorry to hear about this accident.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
dang,,,Condolences to freinds and family ..One of the freindlier ice flows around---carefull negotiating ANYWHERE frozen folks!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jan 16, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
Sorry to hear about this. My sympathies to family and friends.

Ice is Very Very Slippery. Easy to forget when you've been strutting around with crampons and ice axe for a few minutes.

A lot of Sierra ice that we're used to hiking or skiing on top of when it's covered in snow is now bare and awaiting our missteps.
I had a painful reminder over Christmas when I slipped flat on my arse on an easy trail. Twice. Only injuries were painful bruises, one on my kneecap which took 3 days to get back to normal. My hiking poles were strapped to my pack. In an exposed location my carelessness would have been serious.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 17, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
Some interesting conditions are brewing for this week. Rain/snow on Fri/Sat with temps decreasing significantly on Sat night?

Anyone wants to ice climb this weekend? I may go with a few friends possibly to coldstream....
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 17, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
Ski season starts later this week.
My body is bruised from this extended ice season. It's time to ski some powder.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jan 17, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
Ski season starts later this week.
I'm not so sure.
With nothing on the ground, the falling snow will have to cover rocks and stumps, fill in little gullies. etc.
Take yer rock skis.
(what, you don't have rock skis?)
Right now it doesn't look as if we're going to get a big dump this week. More forecast for next Tues and Thurs.

This will certainly close the passes though. Bother!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 17, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
LOL @ ski season. They forecast for snow/rain, with about 5 inches of snow predicted....ENJOY!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 18, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
Who cares what happens at lake level.

Above 7000 ft. we could see 7 day totals of 3-5 feet, and up along the crest we could see 4-7 feet.

http://tahoeweatherdiscussion.com/

That's good base building material.
If nothing else I can take my junker nordic skis out and stride about in Ullr's goodness which will beat the hell out of anything I've done on skis so far this season.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 18, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
yestarday seemed like a pathetic storm according to NOAA, today it looks a bit better there. Up to 2 ft by Sunday..

have fun doood!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 19, 2012 - 09:54am PT
powder wont be safe for a while. there is no base.
dont tear your legs off!
NMR

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jan 20, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
Bump to see what the current weather system is doing to ice/approach conditions? Good/bad idea to head up this weekend?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 20, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
I have the same question. Someone told me there were cracks in cascade falls last weekend. It's pretty warm mid week now...Anyone has an opinion regarding how good coldstream could be on Sunday?
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 20, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
It's been raining lightly at lake level all day and has been at least 40 degrees. The nighttime low tonight is expected to be around 30 with the big slug of snow coming in tonight. This warm rain can't be good for any of the formations.

I'd guess that Coldstream will most likely be under 1'+ of sticky snow by Sunday, but the bigger issue for climbing it will be the traffic on 80.

Edited to add: If it were expected to get considerably colder tonight/Saturday night, I'd think differently, but around that elevation the temps look like they are going to be hovering in the 30s, which combined with the rain and upcoming snow would personally make me think this isn't a particularly good weekend for ice. My 2 cents.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
dont count on the slug of snow-- shes fadin north total rain shadow here on the east side-- just some nice wind as usuual the sierra wave was once again weak, disturbed and in the wrong place.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 20, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=39.30009992900441&lon=-120.29398441314697&site=rev&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

this is the forecast.

I am leaning towards finally taking a weekend off from driving etc...

sucks.

49ers game should be entertaining I guess.

FML
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 26, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
Frost on the deck bump!
NMR

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 12, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Bumping this thread for the impending ice season, an beta on when some of these routes around Tahoe might start forming?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 12, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
after the temps lower to daytime thirties in the tahoe basin.
climbingcoastie

Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 13, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
Anyone want to scout out some ice this weekend?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:14am PT
bump for seasonal disorderzzzz.;-)
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Ron,
You got a better memory than I and I bet you remember who posted this picture of ice on Silver Peak (?) on Hwy. 4, I can't find it. Thanks
Silver Peak
Silver Peak
Credit: mrtropy


edit- Not my Photo
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Rainbow is up! Get there early...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
mrtropy, I think that may be Scott Thelens pic.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Thanks kennyt that's it. I never made it over the pass much this pass summer, we need to hook up later this year on the rocks up 4 . This year was more mountain biking for me. Let me know if you are in the Bear Valley area.
Cheers Jeff
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
By the way, regarding Coldstream. Do you guys think the road to the tracks will be plowed at the moment?
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
Negative.
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
"By the way, regarding Coldstream. Do you guys think the road to the tracks will be plowed at the moment?"

No, I would access from Sugarbowl on skis.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
It was 9F up here last night, 28F right now. Ice sucks, but it should be nice and cold. 82F in my house... heat hasn't been on since 5am.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Can't you access it through the tunnel to the saddle? It's been a few years...

That ridge above Coldstream holds some of the largest cornices I've ever seen. But, I was always up there in peak conditions for skiing, not climbing.
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
Donner train tunnels are also in.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
No, I would access from Sugarbowl on skis.

Won't be plowed by this weekend? Really!? :(

Donner train tunnels are also in.

LOL that place is awesome.
I heard of people creating artificial mixed lines up on Donner with a hose. That sounds great.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
I'd say that someone should get out this season when conditions are right and climb the Donner Nordwand, but that'd be light. The Donner Nordwand is for skiing, not climbing.

There is always ice on the north side of Castle Peak...
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:41pm PT

atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
Coldstream.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Maybe 1-2 hours. Can't remember for sure, but it wasn't too short. But not too long. Longer than to Eagle Lake sunny falls for sure.
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jan 3, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Short answer: it depends. Low snow in past years meant an easy walk in from the Coldstream tunnel (45 min.). In high snow years, it is easiest (imo) to ski over Lincoln and follow a ski track down and around to ice.

Sugarbowl used to sell a one time $5 pass to top of Lincoln, which was for easy access to benson Hut. not sure if they still do.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 3, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
I'm pretty sure they still do.

Otherwise, I've just begged my way on to access the bc from Lincoln. If you burn, a little nug always helps to convince the lifties. I didn't burn at the time, but always brought a little bribe with me. Worked every time.

Edit; I've also done the dawn patrol thing to skin up the ski area. It's pretty cruiser, and the cat operators will all give you a wave and a thumbs up.
climbingcoastie

Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
Jan 4, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
Anyone want to get out and climb Sunday-Thursday?
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 14, 2013 - 05:35am PT
who wants to climb some ice in tahoe this week?
brooks8970

Trad climber
kensington, ca
Jan 14, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
I was up there this past week backcountry skiing and passed by the coldstream ice. It looked to be fully in from my perspective across the valley. FYI, the sugarbowl ticket is now $25.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:44am PT
Eeyores fantasy is forming. I hiked over to the base on Saturday to check on it.

LL
LL
Credit: Vitaliy M.

1st pitch
1st pitch
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jan 15, 2013 - 02:02am PT
That actually looks pretty fat for Eeyores.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:41am PT
How much ice gear is needed for Eeyore's fantasy, for protection? I guess it depends on the ice. Looks fun but not sure I have enough screws.
Jon Taylor

Trad climber
Gardnerville
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:38am PT
As Soon as we saw this::
Chouinard and Robinson
Chouinard and Robinson
Credit: Jon Taylor

We practiced on this:: 74ish
Up on Echo Summit
Up on Echo Summit
Credit: Jon Taylor
Credit: Jon Taylor
Credit: Jon Taylor
Credit: Jon Taylor
Credit: Jon Taylor
Credit: Jon Taylor
Wool Sweater-Wool Knickers 70 cm Axe with Alpine Hammer -- State of the art

So we could go down and do this::
I still have the Fish Pack, Boots, Gaitors and Dachstein Sweater...

55cm Axe with Climax slight upgrade
55cm Axe with Climax slight upgrade
Credit: Jon Taylor
This is pretty early ~74 or 75
This is pretty early ~74 or 75
Credit: Jon Taylor
Credit: Jon Taylor
Credit: Jon Taylor
Frozenwaterfalls

Ice climber
California
Jan 15, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
For taking the lift up, make sure and check "the rules" (whatever that means). Several years ago, I bought a one way ticket up and had my snowshoes and ice pack out so was pretty obvious I was not going to be two planking it. Got to the lift and they said there was a policy of "no metal edges, no ride on the lift" and supposedly this was printed on the lift ticket. I requested they show me where on the ticket this was printed (it wasn't) and why they didn't inform me of this when I bought the ticket. Much irritation on my part ensued. Sent my pack up with a friend who did have his ATs, he used my ticket to do the lift run (he had dropped his stuff at the top of the lift and skied down to see why I wasn't up there yet) and then proceeded to snowshoe right up the ski runs. So, if you have buddies who are lifties, you are probably set. Otherwise, get ready to slog up the slope. Supposedly the "no metal edge" rule was some sort of CA law. Right...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
Saweet shots Jon!!
PatCleary

Social climber
Rohnert Park, CA
Jan 16, 2013 - 10:04am PT
Anyone willing to tolerate climbing with a newbie this weekend? I'm psyched to get on some ice, but can't find a partner for this weekend. I have my gear, and I'm happy to belay and buy beer.

Pat
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 16, 2013 - 11:18am PT
Pat, it might be a bit too warm for ice climbing in Tahoe this weekend. If I was you I would try Lee Vining instead.

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.94552525820741&lon=-120.12176513671875
PatCleary

Social climber
Rohnert Park, CA
Jan 16, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Yeah, I checked right after posting that, and realized it was probably just going to be a ski weekend. Unless anyone wants to head out to Lee Vining.

Pat
sharperblue

Mountain climber
oakland, california
Jan 16, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
LVC Main Wall (top and bottom) and Chouinard obliterated this past weekend by a massive invasion of guided groups. Lots of hooking beaten out and shattered placements if that's your cuppa until it heals.

On the upside, only one party was on the North side of the canyon piecing together an excellent and well-protected three pitch meandering route up the slabs and vertical steps on the toe - that area is in beautifully
DS66

Mountain climber
Dislocated
Jan 18, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Anybody been in to Cold Stream canyon this week? Anybody want to go in early am tomorrow?

Thanks,
Dan
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Jan 18, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
Yeah, should nice a mellow at Lee Vinning on a three day weekend.

Good call.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Jan 20, 2013 - 12:15am PT
Anyone know if there is ice left at Coldstream?

Planning to head up on Tuesday, but its looking like it's going to be warming during the day. Night time seems to stay low.

DS66

Mountain climber
Dislocated
Jan 20, 2013 - 10:31am PT
Attempted to go in yesterday morning. Hoping to drive in to the RR tracks from the bottom. Obvious to me now but not yesterday that is not possible. Only way in I think is to ski in from above. Super cold in the morning in Truckee. Was not prepared to ski in so did not see for sure. My plan was to go in early before it warmed up to much.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 20, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
I'm looking for an ice partner for tomorrow (Monday).
Buehler??
Some Random Guy

climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
Jan 21, 2013 - 12:51am PT
yeah i was in cold stream jan. 5 and it was already one long 6 mile trek in from donner park at that time :(
not worth it for a day trip. do the ski descent.

i'd go too if i could but unfortunately other things in life prevail at the moment. post some updates on conditions please :)

if ur in cali don't wait too long.......that ice don't last long
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 21, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
Is it true this hasn't formed in 12 years?
the tube is in
the tube is in
Credit: bergbryce

Despite the warmer temps, things in the shade seem to be doing all right.
The single digit lows might be going away though and with that we might lose our ice. For now it's good though.
Some Random Guy

climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
Jan 21, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
nice! i was running laps on that thing a while back. it still looks good. the left side is more filled in.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#285481
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 21, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
tube
tube
Credit: Vitaliy M.

fun climb!


did anyone climb eeyore's recently?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 22, 2013 - 10:06am PT
the Inertia tube looks good this year
PatCleary

Social climber
Rohnert Park, CA
Feb 1, 2013 - 11:20am PT
I'm guessing from the weather reports that nothing's really in anymore? Even Lee Vining looks way to warm.

Pat
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 11:21am PT
will be in the mid fifties round here today..
janeclimber

Ice climber
Feb 4, 2013 - 02:19am PT
As of last weekend, Lee Vining right side are fat. The very left side (steep part) was pathetic.
Arean Ellis

Mountain climber
Paradise
Dec 8, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
Anyone been into Cold Stream Canyon Lately?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
There was a recent pic of it- doable at that time. Prolly thicker now.
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