Earl Redfern Appreciation and Memoir . . .


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Social climber
chicago ill
Dec 30, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
Looks like you spent your jacket $ on the "Bull"

Social climber
Dec 30, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
Earl would have respected that and been even more inclined to be generous, I bet. lol

Dec 30, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
I liked Earl. He and I think Yates were on Mescalito when Jeff H. and I were on Tribal Rite maybe '88. Back down in the meadow afterwards they were partying down with some hot floozies and showed real generosity. Good times.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 30, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
Some friends and I were walking back to the car from the Cookie under a Sun shimmering afternoon. "Hey, lets hang out on those boulders in the river" said Jean.

The road is an interesting border. The other side of the Cookie was cool and thick with humidity. You could roast in the Sun or switch to the cool by simply finding yourself on either side of a shadow.

A guy appeared and held out his hand. "Hi, I'm Earl, Earl Redfern. How are you all doing ? How was the climbing ?"

Earl was the classic American gentleman and perfect random company for a Yosemite afternoon that happened after all the angst and work of slaying granite dragons.

That was the only time we met and I was saddened at the news of his passing.

Dec 31, 2011 - 12:14am PT
Hey Hank - Earl was cool - I remember hanging out at his pad in Midpines when he was doing the Thor thing - like others, he was a good guy, always psyched, except when on a bender, and a huge bummer that he's not around anymore.....


Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Dec 31, 2011 - 12:40am PT
Ah yes, Earl the girl. He was cool although a bit sketchy. We soloed Bishops Terrace together with another individual that does not frequent the taco so I won't mention the swilliams name. Earl was sketching like it was 5.12, I seriously thought he was going to deck from near the top. He was acting more strange than usual making me think he was on something without telling us, probably LSD.

When he found out I was from SF he told me a story of climbing to the top of the North tower of the Golden Gate Bridge (which I did with Loomis BITD) and base jumping it in broad daylight. He said he landed on a yacht in the bay that was waiting for him. The story goes that the Coast Guard showed up and questioned everyone regarding who the jumper was but since everyone on board was drunk and uncooperative they left, and he was golden.

I think the story is BS unless someone can confirm that he actually did this

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 31, 2011 - 12:44am PT
I knew Earl only in passing, one of those casual acquaintances that come from doing really long Valley hangs. Knocked a few down with him at the Deli on occasion. What litle I did get to know of him was this: a perpetually stoked, but completely casual guy. Never heard him say anything gnar about anybody else, ever. Rare in those days. Always seemed interested about whatever it was you were into at the time. Polite and genuine. Could spin one hell of a yarn with a complete absence of showmanship. An incomplete picture of him perhaps, but when I heard he bought it in the Canyonlands, I paused. A bad day.

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Dec 31, 2011 - 12:49am PT
I did Roulette in 2006 and it was still a bad ass route. He was for sure the real deal, just sometimes over the top with his "stories" .

Social climber
Ely, Nv
Dec 31, 2011 - 01:44am PT
Drank me under the table once or twice. Good fellow, that Earl.

Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
Dec 31, 2011 - 02:35am PT
My friend Dave and I met Earl one afternoon on the far left side of Glacier Point Apron (near HoM). He came hurtling out of the air, landing on his back right at our feet from about 25',bounced up and said...nothing at all. Like he had done it all before.
Captain...or Skully

May 14, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
Miss ya, Earl.

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
May 15, 2012 - 02:53am PT
I miss you Earl, a true Southern gentleman...

Jun 29, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
john bald

Jun 29, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
Climbed with Earl a few times up in NorCal. He was keen on the aerial delivery of supplies into Baffin. Helped him with some rigging of such. Earl was also one of the first DMM reps for the States....neat to get ahold of their lighter biners through him. Story he told me of the Golden Gate jump....ascended tower, made jump into the brink and awaiting boat...quickly nabbed by Coast Guard who had been watching the entire event from start to finish. Still have the business card that was posted above. Earl possessed a lust for life and climbing that was a joy to be around.....miss him!

Boulder climber
Jul 10, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
Earl, The Enthusiastic Maniac we all should be!
Earl, The Enthusiastic Maniac we all should be!
Credit: Leifur

Long Story of how I met EARL REDFERN of Georgia:

First about a minute into this video you see Earl as I knew him looking back at the camera, then arms up and jumps with a chute:


I was a Punk Rock/New Music lover from '76 onwards in SF,CA. Was excited about the S.F. music in '67 prior as a 14 yr old. Pal was Fritz Fox of the Mutants in San Francisco. He knew all these climbers who like our music too..all rebels.
He got me to climb Mt.Whitney with him with Peter Minx in '82. They climbed the front while I surprised them yelling down from the top after I sneaked up the Mountaineer's Route solo as a noob.They were impressed. Minx from Liverpool, was a climber on the Eiger Accent Film you can rent or buy: http://steepedge.com/categories/mountaineering/out-of-the-shadows-into-the-sun.html

'70 bit with Minx in red: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhaJKjnqoeY

I bought us all a nice rack of lamb after our climb. Minx and his wife pushed us into marrying my wife, as we had a kid and he found a wedding ring on a crevice on a mountain we could borrow! Some guy left it there! Got 3 more kids out of that. Thanx Minxy!

R.I.P. Peter Minx..just found out:


Fritz introduced me to John Bakker, R.I.P., at Tuolumne Canyon too...full blond hair wild young guy then, doomed by the free solo addiction but I am sure it was very well worth it for him.
Virginia Parker (R.I.P.) and her sister Lucy were there too climbing with us...Daughters of the Yosemite Indian Chief who ran the road crews. Let us camp on his lawn. (bye Virginia ..bad move jumping out of the car girl)

Fritz brought over Georgia born guy Chuck Clance.. (he got a BA from UC Santa Barbara in Psychology.. a fellow big drinker, but I always held my liquor..the Icelandic way unlike the Irish heh heh..dig)

Clance was an expert, maniac Yosemite climber who did 15 ways up El Cap by mid '80s! I never got into the Adrenaline Rushes that these guys dig...but TOTALLY respect it.. takes wild guts..they lead us!!

Chuck hung out with me for years, great guy...I admired him greatly for his skills and fun ways. I joked about Clance as he came back from his Cap Wall Wars, cheesy smell when the socks came off. Chuck E Cheesefoot!

Clance and I had a few silly disputes, too bad.
Clance introduced me to his Pal from Georgia EARL REDFERN. He came over to my San Francisco Apartment on Dolores St and was a very interesting, super booster, enthusiastic fellow that was infectious. THE NEXT DAY the GUY was on the FRONT PAGE OF THE SF CHRONICLE for jumping off the GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE!!!!!!!! ARRESTED, but not dead like other jumpers...HE BASE JUMPED IT on a bungee cord! I do not think people know Earl Redfern Jumped our GGB on a rubber band.

Wild FUN GUY! He came back and I bought a T-SHIRT to support his BAFFIN ISLAND EXPEDITION he was so happy about! What a great novel enthusiastic person Earl was. I saw the being and he was a wild kid! Shed a tear today thinking about him on the way to work. I wish I could have had the guts to do what he did. So sad he did not have that poor Pilot Noob under closer watch when he hit the canyon wall ..probably looking through binoculars at his next Thrill Base Jump!

Earl and his pals succeeded in the first West Face Direct ascent at Baffin Island of Mt Thor, 33 days in what was called the world's first Grade VII Alpine Big Wall climb in 1985. I did not know he did it until now.


I am putting Earl on the list now when I call a new qualified Medium like Betty Bethards who died. Talking to you soon man! It's always them.. Watch "The Long Island Medium" show on cable to see how it works.

Trad climber
Jul 11, 2014 - 12:44am PT
Earl was a very kind Southern gentleman.

Boulder climber
Jul 18, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
He was SO ENTHUSIASTIC ...thank you Earl you inspired many you never thought could do what you did like this: YEEEAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Messages 21 - 37 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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