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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 13, 2006 - 06:15pm PT
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The Brain wasn’t one that got done much. I may have only done 3 times can’t even remember if it was difficult or not but that wasn’t important. It was the shear excitement of venturing into your own grey matter and those undulating flutes and fins that made up the feature. I think, at one time every regular felt compelled to sac up to it for his own excursion in to the unknown. Would love to see a picture of it today. There was some other high stuff far right of City ord, probably what you’re remembering JL.
Buffalo chip... That was something out of King Solomon’s mines, a real diamond in the rough. There was this arête on the lower left side that was a thrill ride. The stiffest thing I did there was to its right, an overhanging headwall. Never could repeat it after one fluke day doing it, Then of course stopped going. Never did help though, getting chased off by the Private Irvine land co. police. I bet I couldn’t even find that thing now, if it even still exists and as the Kings mines are, it may now just be a Legend.
I should try and get Steve West to post up he may have some other info or a shot or two.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 14, 2006 - 11:16am PT
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This guy leans over to me during choir rehearsal and says, "Psst... Know anyone who wants my old scanner? It only does two slides at a time." So, I am now in posession of an old HP ScanJet. (Thank Gawd this didn't fall into the wrong hands! Can you imagine this being given to Tarbuster?!)
Time to try it out...
From very old 35mm slides that I found in an abandoned carousel in the closet, here are two shots that probably need some explanation. Both are from bouldering at Baldy, taken probably in the late Seventies (or sometime shortly after 1981, maybe). As has been noted earlier, this was a favorite haunt of the Uplandish sect of the Stonemasters. The first is the backside of B Boulder, and Gramicci needs to tell the tale of the ropeless, onsight of the right-side problem. Notice the clean, padless landings!
This second shot is from Hussle Patterns--also at Baldy. A charming little solution that Harrison and I stitched together (over many days of doing piecework) back in 1978. Sweatshop conditions, too. The slide is under-exposed, because it's pretty hard to get good lighting even on the brightest sunny days back in that canyon. Right to left, only; this is one of the cruxy sections with the improbable heel-hooking. ...never been done left-to-right to my knowledge. (And not for want of trying!)
(Bump.)
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Mar 14, 2006 - 11:34am PT
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wish i had a scanner
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2006 - 12:39pm PT
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Did someone say scanner?
Robs?
I'm on my own mad dash, down and out in Mussy Alley, with a pretty kick butt gem of a scanner. It does slides, negatives, lies, cheats, the whole shebang. Paired with my upgraded $25 a year photobucket account, I'm on a Bender for sure. This unit cost about $300. 'Been so busy crankin'out BS on it, I don't even know who makes it...
I'll soon post up a picture of Bachar climbing rare Santee Ice...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Mar 14, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
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This is getting dangerously close to the bottom of the page. That simply can't happen....
BUMP
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 14, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
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Shoes of choice: RDs, RRs, PAs, EBs and TSs (tennis shoes):
Doing Masterlock on Borson's Wall, Mt. Rubidoux, circa mid- to late Seventies. Stonemasters, all.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 14, 2006 - 06:11pm PT
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The Buffalo Chip......I have had similiar experiences (John Long) on the Buffalo Chip.......I was a student at U.C.Irivine, and the Buffalo Chip is a giant dilrt-clod by Urbanus Square off of McCarther in Irvine/Newport Beach.......I feel off a bulge section of rock there and got one of the works climbing cuts I've ever recieved on my leg there..a gash that took months to heal and left an ugly scar for about 20 years on my leg......I used to solo up this dirt chimney and pull on river rock glued in place with mud..(I know how to have fun!).....but, unfortunately, the Buffalo Chip got buried by bulldoziers to put in a housing development....thrown out, so to speek, like an old newspaper...it probably had 5 or so climbs on it.....maybe 35-40 high......(higher than you would like to fall...). I was sad to see the thing buried......for I probably went there 25 times...(Way more than anyone should ever admit to......). Sort of like losing a childhood favorite toy, or a 18 year old dog/cat family pet......
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 14, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
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My first visit to "the Chip" was with Mike. The problems on the left side were both super hard and way off the deck (brush and rubble and the obligatory remants of underwear attesting to teenage sex). It lay all but hidden in a small ravine.
Buffalo Chip was such an appropriate name, it looked like a giant bovine patty turned on its side. As Todd relates, it now lies under about 50 feet of fill upon which have sprouted townhouses or some such structures.
It still lives on in our memories and route info can be found in old copies of the Hunk Guide to Orange County -- the "hunks" were not the likes of Gramicci or Bachar, but the assorted piles of shitty local rock which (with the exception of The Beach) were the desperate fare of rock starved OC climbers.
Would love to see a photo of the Chip if anyone has one.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 14, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
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Classic photo of Rubidoux days Rob. I seem to recognize the pair of skinny legs as Dave Evans, and the other two fellas could be any number of folks.
Any ideas who they were?
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 14, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
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...can't be certain, Spencer. That's either DE or Kevin Powell. I'm guessing that's Charles Cole in the TSs. Is that Craig Fry back there maybe?
Please advise.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 14, 2006 - 10:14pm PT
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Yes Rob,
the haircuts do suggest that Charles is en route, Dave is observing and a possible Matt Cox is consulting.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 14, 2006 - 11:49pm PT
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It really saddens me to hear of the demise of a natural occurrence such as the chip. And for what, town homes that probably go for 2 million each, even sharing a thin wall between them.
Doesn’t sound worth it to me I had some priceless experiences there. Can’t say I had sex though like some could. Bet they sure miss it too.
I’d like to see some pictures also. I have a good one in my mind but can’t guarantee how long that will last. Todd mentioning the chimney helped spark a good visual. With all the photos I have I can’t believe I don’t have one of The BC down in OC.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2006 - 12:33am PT
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Bachar,
Ahead of his Time.
Leashless at Santee.
Yup.
Soul on Ice.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 15, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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Tar, Looks like that could be the Weeping wall, you think?
Since we are on the bouldering path in this chapter thought I would move it off to Colorado.
Enjoyed this one great summer there once. I was staying in Eldorado springs with Dave Brasheres in some loft apartment he had. John Bachar and John Long were also there living out of there cars and such. This one particular day we all decided to drive up to Horse tooth Reservoir in Fort Collins for a little bouldering tour. Dave Knew the place pretty well and was keen to show us the Classics like the eliminators and other Gill routes. Great stuff there and I will piece a few shots out one at a time.
Here’s one of Largo on a particular high one I was too close to get the ground in the shot another six feet lower. If any you guys know the problem let us know.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 15, 2006 - 12:52am PT
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Tarbustin' - those are the same threads I used to wear! Chouinard cord knickers - bring 'em back!
Is that me?
Lee Vinning?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:01am PT
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Shawn Curtis Took That Photo of You JB.
At,
At Santee.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:05am PT
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Ice at Santee? Alzheimers? Where is Shawn these days?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:06am PT
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Thats a cool Largo Shot.
I think its just a warm up boulder HighBall thing.
I bet you could dial in the saturation on that photo Mike.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:07am PT
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He went away, RIP
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:09am PT
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Shawn Passed Bra.
Just Last Year.
I Think I might get some of his photos and post them.
Maybe that picture of Santee, well, I think you blew my cover...
It might be a bit North of Santee...
Shawn said that was your first day on Ice.
I've asked you about it.
You said the Leashless thing didn't feel right, Like when you placed screws, you planted an ax, let go to fiddle and said to the ax "OK, Stay..."
Well Ya, Lee Vining.
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