Board lasted shoes + plantar fasciitis


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Trad climber
Brea ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
A little search turned up that red chili still makes the "Sausalito 2". I think I'm gonna dig my old pair out, and re-check the fit. Found them for $50 at a place called "bent gate mountaineering"... Never heard of this company. Are they decent?

As for the TC pros, I just read that they have sportivas P3 "power rand" like the solutions. I tried a pair of those at a festival and could barely stand in them. Is it the same rand and footbed, or are the TC's less downturned?
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 21, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
Ssssh Archie... let em roll.


Jay you could out climb me if you were wearing Lady Gaga meat shoes haha.


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 21, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
already knew that archie, I don't think anyone said they were board lasted but Dingus opened that pandora's box... :p to both of you.

They say it's the same downturn, but it doesn't feel as toe grabbing arching as in Solutions or testarossa's

Bent Gate is Big store ala neptunes, only in Golden. Only heard the best of people's interactions with them.

I have a new pair of 38.5 Speedsters (also slip lasted) for sale for $80, btw

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
Oct 21, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
+1 on the Aces and stiff shoes in general.

Also consider the Acopa JBs. Stiff *and* comfy. I wish I had a pair. $70 if you're a lucky size 8.

$60 Kaukulators if you're an even luckier size 12!

If you're not opposed to sanitizing used shoes or possibly contracting foot fungus, I think they're the best bang for your buck. You can try many types without breaking the bank. Lots of people that have cash and initial enthusiasm for climbing indoors give up after a few tries and want to off load.

Altrec, Backcountry and REI have a lifetime satisfaction guarantee policy if you want to go the full priced, but returnable route. REI carries the TC Pros. Wishing your feet well. I have that weird bone problem, too. I quite literally feel your pain.

Social climber
So Cal
Oct 21, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
I had the same problem and now a worse one, Osteoarthritis of the big toes. It's only gonna get worse for me.

I found some Kalkulators here and had them re-randed. Since I do my own resoles, they might outlast me.

A couple of other tricks;

Get some thin aircraft modelers thin spruce plywood and make insoles out of them. Experiment with finishes and thickness!

Think about how big a culprit your approach shoes are. I've gone to using a pair of old Trango IIs that I've slapped C4 on the first couple of inches of. They work well for easier climbs as well. You might consider going back to boots for approaches if it's bad enough.

Choice of routes;

J Tree Slabby dummy domes tear me up. Jugfests or someplace like City of Rocks with generally positive feet or cracks are a lot more tolerable.

Trad climber
Northern California
Oct 21, 2011 - 09:23pm PT
Five Ten Netwons are great stiff shoes.

However, your earlier comment about bone spurs concerns me. Be honest with yourself - are you overdoing it with those feet? Bone spurs are often (not always) associated with overuse. Posting about fasciitis + shoes + bone spurs raises a red flag.


Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Oct 21, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
Once again I'll chime in here and say FIT of the shoe is also important. Admittedly, I'm a "shoe junkie," always questing after perfection.

The TC Pro is a great design, but does NOT fit my foot very well; I have a pair that I bought and are too painful to wear. I still have a pair of little-used Boreal Ballet Gold's that fit me somewhat better. I still haven't broken them in completely, since they were a tad too wide when I bought them many years ago. I'm currently climbing in La Sportiva Trad Masters and are also board-lasted, which seem to be doing very well for me. I also have an old pair of Boreal Ace's that fit pretty well and are fairly stiff.

But-ultimately-it's the shape of your foot, and whether your big toe or second toe is longer. My problem is, mine are almost equal length.

You need to try them on and walk around in the store for a while; don't count on the first mail-order pair to fit, either!
Off White

Tenino, WA
Oct 21, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
I'm with Dingus on the Ballet Gold. My foot issue is a neuroma in the right foot, and the board lasted shoe helps a lot. I got a pair of the Boreal shoes from Mtn Tools last spring and they've become my happy pair of all day shoes. Helps cut down on bloody ankles in the cracks too. Sportiva in general and certainly the TC Pro in particular does not fit my version of "feet", so I'll ditto the comment about FIT being the key component.

Trad climber
Brea ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
Thanks again for all the input guys... I do think I'm gonna try the TC pros, I am still scared of the price, but it they fit as good as people say, I'll have to bite the bullet and get them.

I would love to try the Acopa shoes, but I can't seem to find them anywhere. Nomad used to have them, but last time I checked there was nothing.

I'm a pretty big guy, 6'2" about 250.. Not your typical skinny assed climber. I climb 95% of the time in jtree. Due to nagging issues, I've only been doing easier boulder problems the last few years. Feeling a bit better this season, dropping some weight, and feeling ready to tie into a rope again. I've got my list of 40 5.4--5.6 routes for the season, and am looking forward to trad climbing again. I'm used to my shoulder and hip issues, but didn't notice how painful my feet have gotten until I was in Moab a few months ago, and tried bouldering in my slippers. Excruciating shooting pain in my feet. I think I just am too out of shape, but until my feet get a little stronger, I need a way stiffer shoe....
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 22, 2011 - 12:21am PT
Try the Miura.

It's not like the old shoes, board lasted vs. slip lasted.

I won't use anything else, unless I'm crack climbing.

Get one size that fits and one size that's comfy. You won't be disappointed.

So much power goes into the toe, that your arch doesn't seem involved in the equation. It won't hurt your toes either.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 22, 2011 - 02:01am PT
Acopa seems to have gone out of business in the spring. There must still be some stock of their shoes with retailers, but it may take an effort to track down models/sizes.

Oct 22, 2011 - 02:24am PT
There are many things you can do to treat your plantar fasciitis. I had plantar fasciitis for about a year and I discovered that treatment is individual. Things that work for one will not necessarily work for the other. The good news is that you have many treatments you can try but you must be persistent and patient.
I have followed a good plantar fasciitis treatment review website in this link.
There are many self care treatments ideas in there but I think you should consult a podiatrist before do something.
Take care
Archie Richardson

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Oct 22, 2011 - 07:58am PT
I have found that simply rolling a tennis ball under my foot every day for a few minutes helps loosen up my p.f. a lot. I know it sounds silly.

And yes slab climbing really hurts; edging not so bad.

The rand on one of my TC Pros developed a hole very quickly. I was disappointed considering the cost. That said, they are the most comfortable shoes I own and perform very well. Maybe the rand repair will hold up better than the original.

Trad climber
sj, ca
Oct 22, 2011 - 10:51am PT
LaSportiva's Tradmaster is a pretty good stiff shoe. Super comfortable, and you can do cracks in them quite nicely. For me, the friction isn't as good, but if you are used to a stiff shoe and like the friction one provides, then this shoe might be a good option for you.

Trad climber
Oct 22, 2011 - 11:50am PT
One problem with the Tradmaster is the toe is really thick and boxy. It will not go in thinner cracks, so when you get in thin fingers/hands where normally you can use the crack for your feet, you're screwed and forced into trying to stem out.
For folks that have had painful fit in the TC Pro, it may be due to the tongue rolling on the edge when you put it on. I have to put the shoes on my feet starting sideways to get them to go in without the tongue rolling on the edges, which is quite painful once you tighten them, and people may think it is the fit when in fact it is a edge of the tongue rolled over. If you are not familiar with the shoe, it is very easy to do, and they take more time and care to put on them a normal climbing shoe.

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:03am PT
I led 5.9 runout slab in my La Spotiva Megas. It was not a problem. Those were great shoes and I wish I had bought a few pairs.

I wish I had put aside a few new pairs of Megas, too! The toe box is what I really liked!
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