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My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 19, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
The third ascent was made today- BOOM!

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:10pm PT


Trad climber
Bay area
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
Haha. A flair for the dramatic! Nice post. :)

Must have been Honnold. He's the only guy crazy enough to do this stuff, right?

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
good going Boom!

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
Nice work James. Didn't realize you slab climbed so much. sick.
kevin newell

Trad climber
mercer island, wa
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
With mikey? Sweet!
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Oct 20, 2011 - 01:54am PT
Specifics? Please . . .

Trad climber
San Diego
Oct 20, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
The bolts were 1/4' tapers on the F.A. I heard many of them were replaced on the 2nd. We didn't have enough hangers for all of the bolts, plus it was easier to stand on the bare studs when "freeing" the moves.

It would be impressive if there had been a 2nd free ascent after only 30 some years. What shoes/rubber were used?

Trad climber
Oct 20, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
Wow, nice send!

Oct 20, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
Kevin- unfortunately it wasn't me up there... though its on the list.

And I'm pretty sure it was indeed Honnold. Sounds like the bolts were pretty old up high with possibly some missing. Yikes.

Gym climber
Oct 20, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
Would love to hear some details. With whom did Hondo partner?

After 3 ascents, maybe some consensus on grades?

Trad climber
Bay area
Oct 20, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
"Onsighted all but the crux pitch. Did the first 9 one day, then rapped. The came back and climbed the whole route in a day. Heinous slab climbing. . . but kinda awesome too."

 Alex Honnold's words from http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D7653%26AscentType%3D0%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0%253Cbr%2520/%253E
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Oct 21, 2011 - 12:06am PT
According to the Font scale, 7B+ is equivalent to 5.13b/c YDS. But perhaps he's using a different scale? That he didn't on sight the Unfinished 9th pitch says a lot.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 21, 2011 - 12:08am PT
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 21, 2011 - 12:30am PT
Here is an email from Alex, describing the current condition of the bolts.
We were trying to arrange the bolt replacement (which Alex calls "retro").
Roger and I will try to refurbish it next summer, by coming in from the top;
in the meantime it's chalked and ready to climb!


As it turns out I went up there yesterday with my girlfriend [she jugged, it
was a nice learner wall] and sent the thing before I checked my email. So
now I'm not nearly as motivated to retro bolt it, thought it does need a
little bit of love.

But in case you guys ever decide to go up there, here's the whole deal:

First few pitches are awesome ASCA bolts.
Then the pitch that breaks left into the "springtime dry variation" has
crushed hangars because the roof that's shown on the topo on the Spring dry
pitch has fallen off. The topo shows climbing over a little roof/corner
thing with a bolt on it - that whole section of the mountain seems to have
fallen down [no more bolt but fresh scars] and smashed the pitch below it.
Doesn't really matter, doesn't effect the grade or safety - you can thread
the crushed hangars with nuts and place natural gear through the scar.

The main safety issue is that the Steel wall pitch is missing the bolt that
protects the crux. I don't like to be over dramatic, but I was really
scared. You can see where the old 1/4 bolt sheared. I was gripped. It's run

Above that is all old 1/4 inchers [some falling out, spinning hangers, etc]
until you get to the Hang Bivy which has been retroed with 3/8s [except one
of them has been smashed and isn't clippable]

Above that is all old 1/4 [again, some falling out, missing hangars, etc -
but all usable and fairly safe feeling] until you get to pitch 12 I think,
then some new 1/4ers start to make an appearance. I was so psyched to see
the new 1/4ers. Then from there to the top it's all pretty reasonable,
except that the anchor on 14 is total bullsh#t. Old 1/4ers with homemade
looking hangers that look dangerous to me.

We simul rapped the route so we left slings and biners on a bunch of the
anchors. Well, all the anchors I think. We rapped from the top of 15, like
it shows on the topo. I sort of wanted to climb the last pitch and go to the
top but with Stacey jugging and limited gear it seemed kinda epic.

It's an amazing route, such a testament to that kind of old school style.
Pretty exciting but never really dangerous.
It's super chalky right now if you want to check it out. Good to go until
the next rain!

Feel free to spread this report to anyone who cares. More people should
climb the route, and people shouldn't be intimidated by the bolting [except
the missing one, which is kinda messed up]. Even though they're old and
shitty it's still pretty reasonable.

Hahah oh I just remembered that one of the anchor bolts on 11 or 12 fell
out, so that's kinda messed up too. But still, it's kinda ok.

Hope you head up there some day. It's amazing. As the wall steepens it gets
more featured and fun to climb. I was so psyched for all the little crimps
instead of just blank glassy smearing.


Trad climber
Bay area
Oct 21, 2011 - 12:48am PT
Wow... I can't even imagine...

Thanks, Clint!

Oct 21, 2011 - 12:52am PT
7b+ = 5.12c
The Warbler

the edge of America
Oct 21, 2011 - 01:08am PT
"Above that is all old 1/4 [again, some falling out, missing hangars, etc -
but all usable and fairly safe feeling"


Fairly safe feeling?

This from the guy who soloed HD Regular Route, Phoenix, Heaven Etc, Etc..... Classic!

Never really got into the Apron groove myself, but sounds like a killer route, worthy of a full bolt upgrade. Quite a job, even if Werner gets ok to power drill...


Social climber
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:35am PT
hey there say, all...

interesting share... :)

*course, i don't understand all of the tech stuff, but thanks
for sharing, :)

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 21, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
What shoes?
Lighter fluid?
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