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Messages 9101 - 9120 of total 9120 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 1, 2018 - 08:07pm PT
wayne w, I have followed your exploits here and from what I've heard from Mike. You have my attention. For some strange reason I tried to do the Tangerine trip in winter for my first successful attempt at climbing El Cap. One of the team was indeed what you would now call adaptive. Mind you this was 1981 and all I know is my late buddy Dave Webster had a Skill-saw go down his leg ten years previous. Many prognoses and operations later, we somehow pulled it off. What an impression it has left me! Climb on, brother.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Aug 2, 2018 - 09:56am PT
Here's a photo. Is there a story?





and thanks for the update on Big Mike
Jstod

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Aug 2, 2018 - 03:45pm PT
Met Ava (who i believe is Pixel from upthread) and Matty the other day at a belay on the Papoose. Thought I'd share this shot of her on Hairpin's last pitch.

Ava &#40;sp?&#41; on the last pitch of Hairpin
Ava (sp?) on the last pitch of Hairpin
Credit: Jstod

We climbed Obsession, which is a relatively new linkup of sorts that John Howe cleaned/bolted a few years ago. Great route - highly recommended!
pixel

Trad climber
Squamish, BC
Aug 3, 2018 - 03:30pm PT
Hi Julian! Yes, that's me (Eva). Thanks for the picture and the Hairpin beta the other day. I'll have to try the left of the bulge on pitch three sometime.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Aug 3, 2018 - 08:16pm PT
For all of Geoff Creighton's friends, there will be a celebration of his life.

When: 8 September 2018, 3-6pm

Where: The Beaumont Studios Artist Society, 326 West 5th Avenue, Vancouver B.C. Canada.

In lieu of flowers, donations may be made in Geoff's name to the Climber's Access Society of BC, (http://www.access-society.ca) where Geoff was a board member.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Aug 3, 2018 - 08:21pm PT
Can anybody let us know how to get in touch with Dave Nettle ? He was Geoff's partner when they had a good brace of mountain climbing on Mt. Logan...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 3, 2018 - 08:26pm PT

For all of Geoff Creighton's friends, there will be a celebration of his life

Ah, sh#t. I don't think I'll be able to make it. So raise a glass to his memory for me.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Aug 5, 2018 - 08:40pm PT
Thanks for your kind words, Wayno. Your late friend and yourself likely nabbed the second Adaptive El Cap ascent. That is not an insignificant accomplishment, big congratulations much belatedly. I had El Cap plans for an ascent with my friend Michael O Donnell, who was in his prime then and a force to be reckoned with, for the Spring of '83, but was hit by a car while riding my bicycle before we could do it. I was quite seriously injured, then when I had somewhat recovered, more plans went by the wayside after being hit by a car while riding my motorcycle a few years later. Finally got in my first wall in the Fall of '90, an ascent of Zodiac.

Feels good to still be getting off the deck now and then all these years later. Back to Squamish; Most recently, the University Wall on the Chief, in 11 hours on Aug 3rd. Major props to my badass friends Chris Trull and Jon Rigg for making it happen so seamlessly. What an extraordinary day we had. Jon had done the U Wall before, but it was the first time for Chris and myself. I had been looking forward to climbing it for a long while, getting up there only reaffirmed to me why. Such a great route!
pixel

Trad climber
Squamish, BC
Aug 8, 2018 - 04:22pm PT
South gully seen from Powaqqatsi
South gully seen from Powaqqatsi
Credit: pixel

South Gully seen from Powaqqatsi in morning shade. We saw climbers on Calculus Crack, Long Time No See, Rock On, and Hard On.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Aug 8, 2018 - 10:35pm PT
MH2: looks like M-A scrambling the pillar..
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Aug 9, 2018 - 10:14am PT
Thanks. My guess,too.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 10, 2018 - 10:09am PT
A few people on this forum will probably remember Tim Auger. He climbed extensively at Squamish in the 1960s, where he made the 2nd ascent of the Grand Wall (to Dance Platform) and 1st ascent of University Wall. He climbed in Yosemite for a few seasons, made two trips to the Himalayas (successful on Pumori), but spent most of his life in mountain rescue with the Warden Service in Banff National Park.

Tim had been in poor health for a few years, and he died last night, age 72, in Banff.

Glenn Woodsworth
frostback

Social climber
great white north
Aug 10, 2018 - 11:59am PT
RIP to Tim
Glenn, if memory serves Geordie Smaill gave him and Mike W the nod for FA of Apron Strings with note "a couple of young guys, just testing their wings" in his all time classic guide book to the Squamish Chief circa 1975.
BJ

climber
Aug 10, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
RIP to Tim
Glenn, if memory serves Geordie Smaill gave him and Mike W the nod for FA of Apron Strings with note "a couple of young guys, just testing their wings" in his all time classic guide book to the Squamish Chief circa 1975.

Nope, The late Jack Bradshaw PhD and his friend Garret Gardner. Jack was a friend and student of Ned Brown, so I'm guessing that Glenn met him several times.

The route was actually Bloodlust

Dave D was also a pal of Jack.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Aug 10, 2018 - 12:26pm PT
A sad day.
The passing of a great human and a climbing legend.
So much to learn from his example.

RIP Tim

PB
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 10, 2018 - 04:44pm PT
When I first started climbing in Squamish 45 years ago, Tim was already a legend -- but he was no longer in Squamish. And when I started climbing in the Rockies, I thought I'd surely run into him someday. But I never did, and now I never will.

RIP.

___

And yes, Greg is right in his memory of Gordie's account of the FA of Apron Strings. The Bloodlust note is worded similarly, but refers to "a couple of yanks wearing wet ties"
frostback

Social climber
great white north
Aug 10, 2018 - 05:04pm PT
Triconi,
Enlighten us, was Tim a true Canuck climber in his youth in terms of abilities to "boat race" a beer with nary a drop spilt?
I recall being schooled by Chief, Daryl Hatten and others as an underage drinker at the chieftan hotel that this was an essential quality that all Squamish climbers needed to be able to show mastery of lest national honour needed to be defended. This stood in contrast to many of our American brethren who routinely found the 5% beer a bit stout; often dribbling some down the fronts of their shirts near the tail end of a quickly consumed glass, hence "yanks wearing wet ties" as noted by Ghost.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 10, 2018 - 06:40pm PT
I think in the beer-drinking sense, Tim was part of an earlier generation. He certainly liked a beer in the Chieftan, but I (and another old friend) don't recall him really putting it away like some of us. As for the boat races, none of us climbers could do that, but one hard-core beer drinker in our crowd could. But he wasn't a climber.

And the drinking age was still 21. So in 1965, Tim would have only been 19 or so. He always looked so young, he probably had trouble getting into beer parlours (no pubs in those days).

Here's a photo of Tim in full U-Wall regalia, 1966.
Tim Auger, 1966, all ready for action.
Tim Auger, 1966, all ready for action.
Credit: Tricouni
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Aug 10, 2018 - 07:02pm PT
Wow!
Thatís an awesome photo.
There was only a handful of climbers in Squamish on any given weekend when I started in 76.
Tim would have looked like an alien space traveller to the locals in that get up in 66.
A solitary pioneer indeed.

Respect!

(Can we assume he's standing on Psyche Ledge?)
frostback

Social climber
great white north
Aug 11, 2018 - 01:04am PT
Great shot and memories Triconi
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