Squamish Photos and Stories

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Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 4, 2017 - 09:41am PT
....and substantially tipped back, the picture :0D. Looks to me like the top knot of the Chief in the background- that blob of uncracked granite that someone started a bolt ladder up in the - what - early 70's ? Big Jim maybe?

As to this pick, I agree that it's the Bulletheads. A less greened in version.

Curious to me is how Squamish has been "greening up" over the past decades. Older pix show much less bush and smaller trees.

Thanks for the pic Glenn. See you on Saturday.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 4, 2017 - 09:58am PT
Could it be on Mayday? That's a Culbert FA in the Bulletheads, right? I tried this rig once in the rain to practice aid in the 90s but we bailed off left on the Wild Turkey approach ledge rather than finish. The rock reminds me of that. Don't have any pics as it rained too hard and my camera back then wasn't waterproof.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Oct 4, 2017 - 11:17am PT
Thanks, all. I'll put this one down as Bulletheads, probably Mayday. The climber is Dick Culbert. Unlikely to be Bullethead Central, IMHO. See the 3 of you on Saturday!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Oct 4, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
Peter Shackleton definitely needs another mention on this thread. He was a great partner on U Wall:

Credit: Jim Brennan
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Oct 4, 2017 - 08:05pm PT
Escaping the Penalty Box on the Negro Lesbian.

Credit: Jim Brennan
frostback

Social climber
great white north
Oct 4, 2017 - 08:54pm PT
Ah the penalty box, a couple body lengths of grovelling on 1 cm deep gelatinous slime. The feature can be seen to the left of the shoulder of Craig Thompson, first ascensionist along with Daryl Hatten and someone with initials rb, on the near second ascent.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 4, 2017 - 09:25pm PT
Jim, that picture on the penalty box nearly makes me hurl.

Hey , so , our local purveyor of vino at the Broadway Specialty Wines, is a very close friend of Robin S, Pete's youngest -who is now over forty. If that duzzn't make ya'll feel ANCIENT I dunno what will.

Grin.

Thanks for the memory Zhim.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 4, 2017 - 11:24pm PT
Thanks for the memory Zhim.

Indeed. I have fond memories of a lot of fun with Peter. Climbing, riding, hanging. Anyone no where he is now? How he's doing?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 5, 2017 - 12:57pm PT
Didn't he and his wife, J, get into blue water sailing?

I climbed the east buttress of Middle with Peter and it was a great day.

I was curious if he was related to the great explorer and he said "Me grandpappy!!!!" and then admitted there was no familial connection. Heh.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 5, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
I (tentatively) remember being introduced to the young Robin Shackleton at The Edge climbing gym in North Vancouver in the 90s. I have trouble with the idea that people get older, until faced with the fact.

I think Sig Isaac once mentioned to me that he was staying with the Shackletons in Lions Bay.


edit:

Thanks for the pictures, Jim. Oy.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:43pm PT
Calculus Crack -

Credit: Jim Brennan
frostback

Social climber
great white north
Oct 5, 2017 - 09:06pm PT
Ranger Karen on calc crack -nice
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 5, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
Okay so my source says that Peter S and his wife and kids bought the farm.

;-)

In Errington, on the Island. Acreage with buildings for all.

Peter did sail "around the world" for over a year. His wife did the shorter, calmer legs with him . Other wise she flew ( I can sooooo relate ) to the destination while Peter sailed solo.

Hard core !

Living up to the family name !

Great story. Apparently they have a skookum climbing wall :-)on site.

And thats' spittin' distance to Tofino.

Ooooooohhh...........
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:55am PT
In Errington, on the Island. Acreage with buildings for all.

How bout that! By this time next year, we'll be neighbors again.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 6, 2017 - 01:02pm PT
............almost neighbours. You'll need to get a nice little aluminum jet boat to get cross the Salish Sea. Or balloon across when there's an offshore breeze. Otherwise you're a ferry to Comox and an hour drive south to see PS
Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
Oct 7, 2017 - 03:39pm PT
Pretty skookum!

Don Serl Awarded 2017 BMFF Summit of Excellence - proud to announce Don Serl as the 2017 recipient of the Summit of Excellence Award, which recognizes an individual who has made a significant contribution to mountain life in Canada. Regarded as one of Canada’s most accomplished and prolific mountaineers, Serl has about 200 first ascents to his name.


https://gripped.com/news/don-serl-awarded-2017-bmff-summit-excellence/
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 7, 2017 - 03:57pm PT
Well the Bunffites at the Mountin' Festies finally ran outta Rockies recipients and realized there actually more more mountains in Canada then those on the BC/AB border !!!!!!



Don is overdue for some major recognition.

He was great to be in the mountains with!

Cheers to ya Don !!! Glad that deer didn't punch your ticket !
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 7, 2017 - 04:15pm PT
Don has made many significant contributions to mountain life in Canada.

Hey, Tami, let's not tell any lies about the moose that Don hit on his motorcycle when he broke all 17 ribs.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 9, 2017 - 08:45pm PT
I feel pretty sure that the photo Glenn posted of Dick Culbert is Mayday in what we now call Bulletheads North. FA Culbert and Barry Hagen, 1968, according to McLane 2005. The line is shown in that guide on p. 237 with the position in Glenn's photo just below the black-boxed numbers 52 and 53.


The photo Glenn posted:




Here is where I think Culbert is in the above photo:




And an overall view showing the same location:






And a climb also off Turkey Ledge:




Climber in above shot is here, fairly close to where Dick Culbert is in Glenn's photo:






The McLane guide says that Mayday followed what is now Fight Club. Would have been what Kevin calls, "a fine situation, indeed."
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 9, 2017 - 09:16pm PT
9,000!!!!

And to make it more than just grabbing 9K here's a (crappy) photo of another Squamish first ascent.

Credit: Ghost
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