NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
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Nice shot of U-Wall, Relic!
A few weeks ago I was down at Seasoned in the Sun and ended up 1/2 leading, and 1/2 watching some Brit on the .12d portion of The Shadow... It's that dihedral in the back of the shot for anyone that doesn't know. Anyways, for about half the climbing he sounded like he was trying to squeeze out the most persistent, combative turd he'd ever had, though finally did manage to pinch it off clean. When he let out a whoop at the top of the pitch his buddies, our party of three, and a few others lord knows where started cheering at full volume. There were probably 7 or 8 monkeys screeching away for a while in some sort of group high.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Sep 30, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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or about half the climbing he sounded like he was trying to squeeze out the most persistent, combative turd he'd ever had, though finally did manage to pinch it off clean.
HAHAHAHAAHHA!!!!!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 30, 2011 - 09:19pm PT
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How did you know it was some token brit on The Shadow from way down there? Did he yell out a few "bloody hell" screams in between the turd squeezing?
That is a pretty proud pitch. After Croft onsighted it in on the FFA in 1988, it didn't get repeated until over a decade later. My friend in the U-Wall picture, he made the second free ascent of The Shadow. He downgraded it to 12d from Croft's original 13b grade. Subsequently, The Shadow started seeing more and more ascents.
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nature
climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
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Sep 30, 2011 - 09:19pm PT
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TFPU
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 30, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
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anybody do dream catcher lately?
i drink urine.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
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He started talking at the ledge up top... before that it was just REALLY loud pushing in the thin stemming stuff. I was happy to watch because that is one seriously PROUD pitch. Looked super sustained, and the sounds of struggle were enough to get me more focused on his climb than mine. I was curious about the gear, too... What's the pro like in the business?
As to Dreamcatcher/Rurp Riot, Sean McColl was the last guy I heard of sending it. Video!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cFdX1ypCXA
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
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Hey Nigel,
Thanks for posting that video. It's great to see Dream Catcher freed by Sean. Until seeing this, all I ever witnessed were people dangling around in slings on a rainy day.
Jim
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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sean who?
does he work at the lady's foot licker?
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
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Which big runout on White LIghtening? Did someone put a bolt on that no-pro fourth pitch? Okay so I'm outta the loop. Damn.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2011 - 03:53am PT
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Wow! This thread took wings today!
Bruce- Thanks for the inspiration.. Something to do while Luke is scrubbing OHO. Loggers sounds like its right up my alley.
Unfortunately logging seemed to go the way of the dodo bird all round BC. My home town of Campbell River was similarly affected growing up. One day everyone was flush and had new clothes and cars and houses and the next all the “good jobs” at the plants were gone and everyone was looking for work, selling everything and moving away.
I remember taking the Stoker chair up as a kid to get back to the bottom of Solar chair after coming from the Blackcomb Glacier. Stoker run is still there and is a favourite of mine on a day where solar still isn’t open yet.
NigelSSI- Sick photos. I love the Pitch In Time one, I was at the bulletheads 5 or 6 times this summer.. Bullethead East was a blast! There has been a lot of good work there lately.. Still quite a few routes there could use some love too.
Ahh yes the other reason they call it the Sword. Can't wait to get on that pitch. Got a look at it this summer up close, but had to bail cause it was dark :)
Tami- like Luke said you are right it is the table from Brohm. Take the drill.. Gotcha :) If i ever make it over there :)
Ya the Malamute closure sucks bigtime. I went in there with a partner 8 or 9 years ago now and he led Caboose and we top roped Clean Crack. I was barely up to the challenge of Caboose and was completely lost on Clean Crack. I would love a chance to do those routes again and would do so in a heartbeat, were it not Illegal. You think they could put up a fence or something... CN .....
“But we all have lost that war what with the Wall St banksters and their Ponzi scheme economics.”
You are so on the money with this..
Ghost- Is pollution from yuppie whistler-goers better than pollution from redneck mill workers? Looks like we traded one evil for another... I think logging paid better than tourism.
Nice photo of Blazing Saddles. I did that one for my first time this year , had to take a break just under the roof then when I got up over the roof I was so gripped on the shitty slab foot and couldn’t get a good jam lost the foot and couldn’t hold it, whipped over the roof.. pretty fun actually.
All right all this talk.. Where’s the photos? Here’s one.. Not mine though Jamie Chong’s. Came up when I looked up Sean McColl. Nice work on the SA btw Sean! You made it look easy! So casual and collected.. Sharma had to fight for that FA! This pic is from an early 2009 practice Run..
Jim you must have missed the link to the Dreamcatcher FA that Dr. Sprock put up?
Sean McColl - DreamCatcher - Squamish, BC by jamiechong, on Flickr
Tami- “Certainly cleaning has been taken to some wildass extremes now. I'm not fond of what was done to the Cling Peaches wall ( someone used a power sprayer pumping water from the slough below - or so I was told ). But then again hard for me to judge what with some of the unearthing I did BITD.”
This is what I heard too, and it was very clean when I was down there this summer. If we left it alone and didn’t climb there it would all grow back within 5-10 years anyways..
I wasn’t out with Bruce today I was at work in the rain. That was Luke who offered him a belay, but I would not be averse to giving him one either...
Thank you for contributing to this thread all!! The taco has had a significant lack of Squamish content since Ander’s thread died off and Patrick Oliver inspired me to share my pictures more on his Old Photos Just for Fun Thread.
And just for Nature another photo. This is one of the few times I ever went bouldering outside.
Relic- Super sick pic of U-wall!
Oplopanax- Sick road rash! Good work, very nice photos!
ROLF! “Turd squeezing”
Dr. Sprock- ok ill bite why do you drink urine?
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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I guess I overlooked the Dreamcatcher FA link.
I can only take Sprock in small doses...
(pun intended) *chuckle*...
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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heh.... nice spotting guys. reminds me of a friend showing us the bouldering circuit in Icicle creek back before bouldering pads. We all had beers and cigarettes but usually put them down to try the problems. Our guide was also our spotter, but the reality was that when ever we fell off, he never once spilt his beer or dropped his butt
I think we should take up a collection for Sprock and see if we can find him some help or maybe a publisher
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Big Mike, that boulder problem is 'The Cutting Edge'. Pretty fun!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sick photos everybody!
@Relic, doesn't the shadow go at 5.13 if you link the first pitch into it, or something like that??
eatting mcdicks with a piton, hilarious!
-Jeremy Frimers newest route, Flex Capacitor
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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This thread is looking a bit too serious - time to stop for a cold one:
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Has anyone repeated Peter's onsight of what for most is the second pitch of University Wall, also sometimes called (rather confusingly) part of "The Shadow"? Did Devin, when he did the first repeat?
Noting that University Wall starts from the ground, below the Flake ledge, and climbs big bushy corners to where people usually start the climb now, perhaps 200 m off the ground. Possibly no one has ever truly repeated all of U Wall.
I wonder how many bolts are now in the route? IIRC, Glenn, Tim, Dan and Hamie (two post here) used only about ten in 1966.
(Peter and Greg freed U Wall, with variations on two pitches. Then Peter returned and freed the original line - two pitches out of fifteen - and wants to call it the Shadow? Am I the only one who finds that confusing?)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Anders, I'm no expert on route history, but what I understand the original line(or original free line)deeks out left from the main corner right before what P.C. named the shadow. If you take a close look at the picture I posted on Seasoned in the Sun(thanks for the sweet line BTW) there is a wooden belay seat out left of the main dihedral, under 'the wide flake', being the way that most free climb it, from what I gather.
@SAC, what is the deal with reposting my pic of the flex capacitor, 'HMMMMMM??' whats your beef?
@Yetanotherdave, epic looking bivy!
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Big Mike, The Cutting Edge is given V4, although I heard a hold recently broke making it a bit harder. I didn't hop on it this year, so I can't verify that.
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