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Messages 81 - 100 of total 8209 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Oct 1, 2011 - 01:50am PT
sean who?

does he work at the lady's foot licker?

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 1, 2011 - 01:52am PT
Which big runout on White LIghtening? Did someone put a bolt on that no-pro fourth pitch? Okay so I'm outta the loop. Damn.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2011 - 06:53am PT
Wow! This thread took wings today!

Bruce- Thanks for the inspiration.. Something to do while Luke is scrubbing OHO. Loggers sounds like its right up my alley.

Unfortunately logging seemed to go the way of the dodo bird all round BC. My home town of Campbell River was similarly affected growing up. One day everyone was flush and had new clothes and cars and houses and the next all the “good jobs” at the plants were gone and everyone was looking for work, selling everything and moving away.

I remember taking the Stoker chair up as a kid to get back to the bottom of Solar chair after coming from the Blackcomb Glacier. Stoker run is still there and is a favourite of mine on a day where solar still isn’t open yet.

NigelSSI- Sick photos. I love the Pitch In Time one, I was at the bulletheads 5 or 6 times this summer.. Bullethead East was a blast! There has been a lot of good work there lately.. Still quite a few routes there could use some love too.
Ahh yes the other reason they call it the Sword. Can't wait to get on that pitch. Got a look at it this summer up close, but had to bail cause it was dark :)

Tami- like Luke said you are right it is the table from Brohm. Take the drill.. Gotcha :) If i ever make it over there :)

Ya the Malamute closure sucks bigtime. I went in there with a partner 8 or 9 years ago now and he led Caboose and we top roped Clean Crack. I was barely up to the challenge of Caboose and was completely lost on Clean Crack. I would love a chance to do those routes again and would do so in a heartbeat, were it not Illegal. You think they could put up a fence or something... CN .....

“But we all have lost that war what with the Wall St banksters and their Ponzi scheme economics.”
You are so on the money with this..

Ghost-
Is pollution from yuppie whistler-goers better than pollution from redneck mill workers?
Looks like we traded one evil for another... I think logging paid better than tourism.

Nice photo of Blazing Saddles. I did that one for my first time this year , had to take a break just under the roof then when I got up over the roof I was so gripped on the shitty slab foot and couldn’t get a good jam lost the foot and couldn’t hold it, whipped over the roof.. pretty fun actually.

All right all this talk.. Where’s the photos? Here’s one.. Not mine though Jamie Chong’s. Came up when I looked up Sean McColl. Nice work on the SA btw Sean! You made it look easy! So casual and collected.. Sharma had to fight for that FA! This pic is from an early 2009 practice Run..
Jim you must have missed the link to the Dreamcatcher FA that Dr. Sprock put up?

Sean McColl - DreamCatcher - Squamish, BC by jamiechong, on Flickr

Tami- “Certainly cleaning has been taken to some wildass extremes now. I'm not fond of what was done to the Cling Peaches wall ( someone used a power sprayer pumping water from the slough below - or so I was told ). But then again hard for me to judge what with some of the unearthing I did BITD.”
This is what I heard too, and it was very clean when I was down there this summer. If we left it alone and didn’t climb there it would all grow back within 5-10 years anyways..

I wasn’t out with Bruce today I was at work in the rain. That was Luke who offered him a belay, but I would not be averse to giving him one either...

Thank you for contributing to this thread all!! The taco has had a significant lack of Squamish content since Ander’s thread died off and Patrick Oliver inspired me to share my pictures more on his Old Photos Just for Fun Thread.

And just for Nature another photo. This is one of the few times I ever went bouldering outside.

My buddy Will on some bolder problem i can't remember. The Infamous lu...
My buddy Will on some bolder problem i can't remember. The Infamous lurker Kyle spots.
Credit: Big Mike


Relic- Super sick pic of U-wall!

Jesse tries to pull the lip while Jay spots
Jesse tries to pull the lip while Jay spots
Credit: Big Mike

Oplopanax- Sick road rash! Good work, very nice photos!

ROLF! “Turd squeezing”

Dr. Sprock- ok ill bite why do you drink urine?

The Chief
The Chief
Credit: Big Mike
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 1, 2011 - 11:59am PT
I guess I overlooked the Dreamcatcher FA link.

I can only take Sprock in small doses...
















(pun intended) *chuckle*...
NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Oct 1, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
Big Mike, that boulder problem is 'The Cutting Edge'. Pretty fun!
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 1, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
Sick photos everybody!

@Relic, doesn't the shadow go at 5.13 if you link the first pitch into it, or something like that??

Seasoned in the Sun, With the shadow looming in the backround
Seasoned in the Sun, With the shadow looming in the backround
Credit: thekidcormier

eatting mcdicks with a piton, hilarious!

Aislinn getting her undercling on
Aislinn getting her undercling on
Credit: thekidcormier

-Jeremy Frimers newest route, Flex Capacitor
YetAnotherDave

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 1, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
This thread is looking a bit too serious - time to stop for a cold one:


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2011 - 08:41pm PT
Jim I saw Sprock reply to something with more than three lines the other day and I was shocked! :)

Bruce- Nice story about spotting.. I thought someone might say something when i was going through the photos... :)

Spotting is important though. I had a buddy spot me on Charlotte's Web this year at Chek, and I said "Oh no don't worry i've climbed this a million times" but he spotted me anyways and I slipped on a wet patch and peeled before the first bolt and landed on his foot. He kept me from falling down the slope there and I was fine... So was his foot but it hurt for awhile! Thanks Rick!

Hmm... Photo?

This is my buddy Josh working Gom Jabbar 13b at Chek. Lurker Kyle belays.



JoshGomJabbarm by bigmike1974, on Flickr

NigelSSI what does Cutting Edge go at v3-v4?

The Chief in the winter



YetAnotherDave- You are absolutely correct. I just cracked a Blue Buck to join you. Let's celebrate with another photo.

Josh on Gom Jabbar again.



Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 1, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
Has anyone repeated Peter's onsight of what for most is the second pitch of University Wall, also sometimes called (rather confusingly) part of "The Shadow"? Did Devin, when he did the first repeat?

Noting that University Wall starts from the ground, below the Flake ledge, and climbs big bushy corners to where people usually start the climb now, perhaps 200 m off the ground. Possibly no one has ever truly repeated all of U Wall.

I wonder how many bolts are now in the route? IIRC, Glenn, Tim, Dan and Hamie (two post here) used only about ten in 1966.

(Peter and Greg freed U Wall, with variations on two pitches. Then Peter returned and freed the original line - two pitches out of fifteen - and wants to call it the Shadow? Am I the only one who finds that confusing?)
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 1, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
Anders, I'm no expert on route history, but what I understand the original line(or original free line)deeks out left from the main corner right before what P.C. named the shadow. If you take a close look at the picture I posted on Seasoned in the Sun(thanks for the sweet line BTW) there is a wooden belay seat out left of the main dihedral, under 'the wide flake', being the way that most free climb it, from what I gather.

@SAC, what is the deal with reposting my pic of the flex capacitor, 'HMMMMMM??' whats your beef?

@Yetanotherdave, epic looking bivy!
NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Oct 1, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
Big Mike, The Cutting Edge is given V4, although I heard a hold recently broke making it a bit harder. I didn't hop on it this year, so I can't verify that.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Oct 1, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
Great thread! Loving it!!

KC.... oh, nevermind.

A.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 2, 2011 - 02:55am PT
Cutting Edge was V4 but, is now V5/6 with the broken hold along the traverse. It looks like Big Mikes pic was taken pre-broken hold.

@thekidcormier Ya looks like that is what Kevin printed in his "guidebook".

Does anyone else think McLane's guidebooks are getting worse and worse? His pictures with line drawings of routes are horrible IMO.



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2011 - 04:20am PT
NigelSSI and Relic. Thanks for the info! Pic was taken circa 2009. I have very little beta about bouldering. I really should do more.

Relic-
Does anyone else think McLane's guidebooks are getting worse and worse? His pictures with line drawings of routes are horrible IMO.

Ya. His new Western Select has good pictures but suffers from a lack of descriptions for the climbs. I understand it is a select and he is trying to pack alot of climbs in, but his earlier books usually had very good descriptions.

I think I might know who you are.. does this climb look familiar?



Marc Leclerc on a 11+ 12 slab route by a renowned local slab developer. :)

Anders! I have been hoping you would see my humble thread.. How is your history project coming along? I have video cameras and the experience to operate them, plus some time coming up this winter. PM me and maybe we can figure something out.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 2, 2011 - 04:39am PT
No Mike, that slab doesn't ring a bell. Ask Henkel, he might know somethin ;)
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 2, 2011 - 11:40am PT
@Relic; I really like my(henkels) 2001 Mclane, I like the descriptions and pictures and the little tidbits and factoids.
\
Here is a few more pictures for your viewing pleasure;
Kyle on Angels
Kyle on Angels
Credit: thekidcormier
David following the Pillar
David following the Pillar
Credit: thekidcormier
Aislinn Following Life on Earth
Aislinn Following Life on Earth
Credit: thekidcormier

For those who havent seen it yet, here is part one of Driven with Marc Leclerc;
http://vimeo.com/28252455

And a little story of working the route with him;
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.com/2011/06/day-out-with-marc.html
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 2, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
How did you like Astro Ledge? That thing scared the crap outta me the first time going across. I remember this old, weathered fixed rope that was rigged up at one of the more exposed sections of the crumbly ledge. The wall kinda buldged out there, threatening to turf you off hundreds of feet to the base of the North Walls. Looking at this crap rope that dangled over the void, I was wondering, "is this thing supposed to save me?"

I'm glad the North Walls are having new routes put up on it. So many sick lines on it, and lots of potential for more.

I'd love to see some old pictures of Atkinson, Hart, Beckham, etc. up there in the eighties.
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 2, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
Astro LEdge rules! I heard work of someone developing a 5.9 route all the way up the north walls, called air guitar or something like that. has any one got info on it?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 2, 2011 - 05:19pm PT
Relic - All those chaps post on here although Randy & Dean lurk more then post. They'd hafta be directed to the thread. Perry is more often around but he's often postin' on the music threads hahahaaa!

Great thread.

Peter did the deke-out-left version of UWall free back in the day in order to do the FFA. He wasn't sure the main corner would go. Or that's how I remember it.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 2, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
Thanks Tami, ya I've seen Perry post quite a lot. He has an amazing thread on the second free ascent of University Wall on taco somewhere.

We were heading to the North Walls today but got blocked at the start of the forest service road. There was a police barricade up, and a cop yelling at us to "get the hell out of here". Found out later someone got murdered and they dumped the body on the forest service road that heads past the North Walls, Squaw, and all that stuff. Spooky.
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