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Messages 7741 - 7760 of total 8224 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Mar 2, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
Thanks Kris. I hope this is no bone of contention.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 2, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
A body could stay unfound for many years in parts of that gully. Nobody goes in parts of it.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 2, 2015 - 09:12pm PT
A body could stay unfound for many years in parts of that gully. Nobody goes in parts of it.

I bet you and Hamish know all about this. Probably some guy who was going to get on one of your planned first ascents ahead of you...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 2, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
That would have been Fred, and he's still around!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
Crazy! Hope they didn't stir up any pterodactyl nests!
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Mar 3, 2015 - 07:21am PT
The remains were just over two years old. Last summer the RCMP was notified of what was suspected to be human remains by climbers who had scrambled or rapped into the gully to retrieve a dropped camera case from the Squamish Buttress.

The RCMP and Coroner requested SAR's assistance in recovering the remains. Many of the large bones and the person's clothing were recovered at that time. Unfortunately the vegetation was so thick at that time of year that many of the small bones could not be found, and may have been assumed to be lost.

On Thursday the 26'th I was scrambling up there on my own (not looking for remains) and came across some of the missing smaller bones in an area that seasonally would be thick with ferns and other plants, but right now is completely open. I informed SAR, who contacted the agencies who were involved before to see if this was the same area. (I wasn't on the recovery last summer) The coroner's office asked if we would again assist in attempting to retrieve the balance of the remains, so that there would hopefully be no future calls about other finds in that area.

I tucked the remains that I had located off to the side of the gully away from the loose wash area. When we returned on Saturday the 28th, those remains were missing, and there were what appeared to be very fresh foot prints in the moss leading to or from the Squamish Buttress. We recovered what we hope to be the balance of what was in the area, and jugged out.

We talked to several local climbers who spotted climbers several pitches from the top of the Buttress just before dark on Friday the 27'th. It is unknown if these climbers finished the route, or descended, possibly by route of the gully. If they happened to pick up the remains, its not a big deal. No one is in trouble. The Coroner's office simply needs to consolidate and inventory all of the remains, so that the case can be closed. If these remains turn up somewhere else, its a whole lot more paperwork for someone, and it may take a long time to be linked to the correct case. They can be turned in anonymously even. No Problem .

As I said before, feel free to contact me directly if you'd like. We're just trying to give as much closure to this case as possible for the family, and the agencies involved.

Thanks,

Kris Wild
604-815-8637
RyanD

climber
Mar 3, 2015 - 07:34am PT
Thanks for clarifying Kris.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Mar 3, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
The missing remains have been turned over to the coroner. Many thanks for the community cooperation to have this resolved!

Kris
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 4, 2015 - 08:28pm PT
Meanwhile in Van we leave work early c'os of trichloroisocyanuric acid on fire at the Port.

Fun times.


Nice route Brownie. :-D Snicker.

I always wondered if RB created his routes just to see what suckers would follow him with second & third ascents.

Grin.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
Nice Kieran!!

Live from the pillar!!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 5, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
Killing it Mike! You still in the big boy harness?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
Ya buddy. Gonna try out my safe harness tomorrow. Think it should be good. It wasn't pretty today. Definetly not at the top of my game yet. But i got up there!!

Looking forward to tying in with you again Greg.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
Luke and I went for a run up the Grand last week, Wall style.

It was my first time short fixing, and Luke did all the leading and hauling. I was trying to free as much as possible on my ushba.

We started on Apron Strings and Luke had the first pitch fixed in no time.

I struggled trying to free it and self belay and I ended up jugging it. I only had one jug and aider so it ended up being very inefficient.

It was good lesson.

#1. Only try and free stuff well within my abilities.

#2. Take off excess layers when climbing. Better to be cold at the belay than sweating buckets on the pitch.

#3. You're not as strong as you used to be.. Yet. ;)

I got to the belay and Luke was already up the next corner. I sorted the rack quickly and tagged it up to him.

I said "on belay" and he set off quickly for the tree. The line was fixed again in no time, and I was ready for it. This pitch flowed much better and despite a couple hangs for a few well placed nuts, I followed it free.

Pulling over the lip. I looked up to find Luke hanging off the second bolt of Merci Me.



Another quick change over and Luke was off like a rocket.

I followed the next pitch quickly and ended up doing a bit of a tension traverse at the end to reach the anchor.

Up till now i had been rushing so much, I never had an opportunity to pull out the camera. A little more time at the belay provided me a moment to take a couple shots while Luke ran out his slack.

The Golden Throat Charmer


The traverse to the pillar with Howe Sound behind



Luke was kind enough to provide me a belay for the traverse pitch, but it wasn't pretty. I was pretty worn out by the time i reached the belay.

Luke at the split pillar belay.

Kyle and Nina were little specks on peasants route.


We decided to have lunch on top of the pillar and then bail. Luke set off and I soon realized our decision well timed.

Luke taking advantage of the no hands stance..


Life is Grand..


I hope you like jammin'


Pano


My performance on the pillar was sub-par to say the least. The moves we all there but my body was just way too tired to do them. I cheated through the layback start and after much hanging scratched my way up the thing..

On top we ate our sandwiches greedily and enjoyed our perch for a bit before we descended back to the lush forest below.

It felt pretty good to get back to a place I had dreamed of returning for the past couple years.

This thing haunts my dreams.


Hope you've all enjoyed this nice dry weather! Looks like it will be wet for a bit.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Mar 11, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
Damn, the Pillar looks way too f*#king good. Nice pics and climbing.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Mar 11, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
Yayyyyy Mike! And Luke too for rope gunnin with ya. Awesome to see you getting after it. The base of the pillar probably hasn't seen haul bags for quite a while!

Your photo of looking up at Luke on the pillar made me want to get you a new rope, then I realized it was just the photo stitching software.... :)

K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
Thanks Justin! It's gravy man!

Kris! Thanks buddy! Lol, ya the iphone pano does funny things to moving objects. Lol. We gotta hook up soon! I got a present for ya.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 11, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
Thanks for that ^^^ Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
You're welcome Darwin!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 11, 2015 - 10:20pm PT
Hey Mike, makes me very happy to see you on that!

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 11, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
Agreed Glenn. And I also did a double-take on the rope. Thought it was a really weird kink. Then I realized........ ;-D

Pourin' rain here in the Big Smoke rite now.

Weirdest "ski season" on the local hills EVER !!! I asked my Mum about it ; she started skiin' on the local hills around 1947 and she doesn't remember a winter where we had NO skiing. I'm glad in some ways that my Dad isn't around to see it ; he would have been horrified. But he started skiin' locally in '38 so we could have had an even longer view of this.......

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