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Messages 7741 - 7760 of total 8511 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Mar 3, 2015 - 07:34am PT
Thanks for clarifying Kris.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Mar 3, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
The missing remains have been turned over to the coroner. Many thanks for the community cooperation to have this resolved!

Kris
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 4, 2015 - 08:28pm PT
Meanwhile in Van we leave work early c'os of trichloroisocyanuric acid on fire at the Port.

Fun times.


Nice route Brownie. :-D Snicker.

I always wondered if RB created his routes just to see what suckers would follow him with second & third ascents.

Grin.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
Nice Kieran!!

Live from the pillar!!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 5, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
Killing it Mike! You still in the big boy harness?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
Ya buddy. Gonna try out my safe harness tomorrow. Think it should be good. It wasn't pretty today. Definetly not at the top of my game yet. But i got up there!!

Looking forward to tying in with you again Greg.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
Luke and I went for a run up the Grand last week, Wall style.

It was my first time short fixing, and Luke did all the leading and hauling. I was trying to free as much as possible on my ushba.

We started on Apron Strings and Luke had the first pitch fixed in no time.

I struggled trying to free it and self belay and I ended up jugging it. I only had one jug and aider so it ended up being very inefficient.

It was good lesson.

#1. Only try and free stuff well within my abilities.

#2. Take off excess layers when climbing. Better to be cold at the belay than sweating buckets on the pitch.

#3. You're not as strong as you used to be.. Yet. ;)

I got to the belay and Luke was already up the next corner. I sorted the rack quickly and tagged it up to him.

I said "on belay" and he set off quickly for the tree. The line was fixed again in no time, and I was ready for it. This pitch flowed much better and despite a couple hangs for a few well placed nuts, I followed it free.

Pulling over the lip. I looked up to find Luke hanging off the second bolt of Merci Me.



Another quick change over and Luke was off like a rocket.

I followed the next pitch quickly and ended up doing a bit of a tension traverse at the end to reach the anchor.

Up till now i had been rushing so much, I never had an opportunity to pull out the camera. A little more time at the belay provided me a moment to take a couple shots while Luke ran out his slack.

The Golden Throat Charmer


The traverse to the pillar with Howe Sound behind



Luke was kind enough to provide me a belay for the traverse pitch, but it wasn't pretty. I was pretty worn out by the time i reached the belay.

Luke at the split pillar belay.

Kyle and Nina were little specks on peasants route.


We decided to have lunch on top of the pillar and then bail. Luke set off and I soon realized our decision well timed.

Luke taking advantage of the no hands stance..


Life is Grand..


I hope you like jammin'


Pano


My performance on the pillar was sub-par to say the least. The moves we all there but my body was just way too tired to do them. I cheated through the layback start and after much hanging scratched my way up the thing..

On top we ate our sandwiches greedily and enjoyed our perch for a bit before we descended back to the lush forest below.

It felt pretty good to get back to a place I had dreamed of returning for the past couple years.

This thing haunts my dreams.


Hope you've all enjoyed this nice dry weather! Looks like it will be wet for a bit.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Mar 11, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
Damn, the Pillar looks way too f*#king good. Nice pics and climbing.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Mar 11, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
Yayyyyy Mike! And Luke too for rope gunnin with ya. Awesome to see you getting after it. The base of the pillar probably hasn't seen haul bags for quite a while!

Your photo of looking up at Luke on the pillar made me want to get you a new rope, then I realized it was just the photo stitching software.... :)

K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
Thanks Justin! It's gravy man!

Kris! Thanks buddy! Lol, ya the iphone pano does funny things to moving objects. Lol. We gotta hook up soon! I got a present for ya.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 11, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
Thanks for that ^^^ Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
You're welcome Darwin!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 11, 2015 - 10:20pm PT
Hey Mike, makes me very happy to see you on that!

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 11, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
Agreed Glenn. And I also did a double-take on the rope. Thought it was a really weird kink. Then I realized........ ;-D

Pourin' rain here in the Big Smoke rite now.

Weirdest "ski season" on the local hills EVER !!! I asked my Mum about it ; she started skiin' on the local hills around 1947 and she doesn't remember a winter where we had NO skiing. I'm glad in some ways that my Dad isn't around to see it ; he would have been horrified. But he started skiin' locally in '38 so we could have had an even longer view of this.......

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 11:59pm PT
Thanks Glenn! Congrats on the success of your book!

Tami! So crazy. It's basically felt like spring most of the winter..
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Mar 12, 2015 - 10:00pm PT
Glenn,

Tell us more about your book and what it took to achieve it. I love books and the opinions of authors in context to their work.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Mar 12, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
And an obligatory geological photo to atone for posting on politard threads:

Credit: Jim Brennan
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 12, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
Jim
It probably took a lot of beer to achieve it. Speaking of which...........







........Piton lager beer, the mystic mountain taste.............







........Brewed exclusively for OGs.








Credit: hamie










Goooooooood.






Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 12, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
Hamie, great photo. Did you bring any "pitons" back?

Jim, nice photo; where is it?

The book is the brand new "Hot Springs of Western Canada." Yes, it's a guidebook, and no, it's got zilch Squamish or climbing content. But we are really happy with it. It made #4 on the BC bestseller list last week.

Seeing as you asked....
Credit: Tricouni
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Mar 13, 2015 - 09:07am PT
Hot springs, my favourite !

I'll have to get a copy. The peak is the Great Trango Tower, Pakistan.
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