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Messages 7701 - 7720 of total 8749 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bearbreeder

climber
Feb 24, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
Mike forgot the fun he had on this funkay corner today !!!

Credit: bearbreeder

The climbs to the left are nice and clean now as well ... Super fun and needs traffic ... 5.10 ish face

;)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2015 - 10:03pm PT
Yes.. Foot in the gravy 10d.. My rubber is hurting.. Lol
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 24, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
Don Serl climbed FitG in crampons :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
I remember that! Was it Anders who posted that classic photo?
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Feb 25, 2015 - 08:22am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=668163&tn=618


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 11:45am PT
Here's the whole classic discussion of Don Serl's "dryfooting" on Foot In The Gravy.

David Harris

Sep 19, 2010 - 11:13pm PT

Once upon a time climbers in Vancouver would gather at a sleazy bar called The Cecil every Wednesday night. Drink bad beer, talk about climbing, tell lies, make plans... The usual. One drunken evening somebody mentioned a route named "Foot in the Gravy."

Silly little 30-foot route in the Little Smoke Bluffs at Squamish. 10c on an 75-degree wall with two bolts.

And this started an argument. Don Serl was there that night, and he happened to say something like "Oh, right, neat little edging problem." To which Konrad Kraft replied "Edging? You must be thinking of something else. 'Foot in the Gravy' is a slab. Smearing all the way."

"Smearing? No, it's little edges from bottom to top."

"Edges? Are you nuts? It's a slab."

"Slab? No, you're nuts. There are edges everywhere you look. There are so many edges I could climb it in crampons."

"Bullsh!t."

"Not bullsh!t. I could front-point the whole thing."

"Wanna bet?"

"Sure."

So, the following weekend, everyone who had been in the pub that night wandered out to the Burgers & Fries cliff in the Smoke Bluffs, and watched Don lace up his mountain boots and lash on the crampons. And carefully and concisely front-point his way up 30 feet of 10c as a light rain began to fall.

Of course most of us had climbed the thing a hundred times in sticky shoes, but Don had that edge mentality that comes from spending thousands of hours in stiff boots on steep rock.

So what's the takeaway? Maybe it's in your own mind. Or, if you'd been standing where I was standing, you'd have been able to see the tier of cliffs above, and like me you'd have been torn between watching Don front-point his way up "Foot in the Gravy on a toprope" and looking up to watch Peter Croft solo "Flying Circus."

I mention this because the light rain had influenced Peter's choice of footwear...

He took off his shoes and climbed it in his socks.



Tami Knight

FOtos from my "red book" of Don Serl on Foot in the Gravy . It was because Kon Kraft said it couldn't be done in crampons that Don went for it. Too dodgy to lead the thing but he did the route on toprope.


Credit: Tami

Credit: Tami


Anders Ourum
I placed the bolts on that dumb thing, tried it, but for some reason didn't actually do it - although it's basically a three move 'climb', and not very hard. Ghost, were you with me then?



David Harris
Nope. I've climbed it, of course, but wasn't involved in the FA.

It's gotta be what? 30 feet? Hard to even call it a "route" but it holds a special place in my memory because it was one of the routes I climbed with Andy (MH2) on my first day of climbing after getting my leg bolted back onto my body.

I love this stuff. How's the book going Anders? ;)

bearbreeder

climber
Feb 25, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
sound like getting the foot in da gravy was a popular thing back then !

shame it aint climbed as much these days ... hopefully some of these lines will now see more traffic

its amazing how there can be decent climbs that dont see much traffic at the most popular crag in canada ... everyone bangs away at the same climbs

;)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 25, 2015 - 01:16pm PT
Check out the belay in the second picture of Don on FITG.

And who is the belayer?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
Sweet Hip Belay! :)

I don't know who the belayer is. I tried to cheat but Tami couldn't remember when she originally posted it... Lol
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 25, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
Sweet Hip Belay! :)

And no need to bother with one of those silly "climbing harness" things.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 25, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
Before the rains arrived this afternoon, I finally finished the retro-scrubbing and re-bolting of Movin' to Montana. My sincere apologies to anyone who went to do this old classic over the last two years and had to work around my fixed lines. I don't make the time I used to for route cleaning, and sometimes get distracted for months at a time.

I first did this route in '99 or so, and was quite captivated by its tenuous linking of small discontinuous features. Back then there was still one or two pins on the traverse at the end of the third pitch, and many on the fourth. Nowadays the route has gotten a reputation for being quite runout in that area. From asking a few of the Old Guard, It sounds like the pitch 3 traverse used to be a quite well protected clip-up, with pins every few of body lengths.

Overall, the route had a mish-mash of fixed protection ranging from pitons, (all but one were completely rusted to bits), 1/4 inch stainless, and carbon steel bolts, and 3/8 stainless and carbon steel bolts. Most anchors had at least four bolts of varying age, size, and quality. All bolts that were not 3/8 inch stainless were upgraded, and all of the pins were replaced with bolts unless solid natural pro was available in it's place or close by. Anchors were consolidated to 2 good bolts.

The cracks on pitch 1 and 3 had filled in with soil and weeds quite badly in spots, and got the royal treatment. The small cedar that you wrestled through half way up the tips corner on pitch 1 also had to go. This may up the grade a notch, time will tell.

Please give the route some lovin' this season. It's an inspiring line, and it's easy to imagine the first ascentionist's excitement of leading off into the unknown with a hand drill and some pins. With big exposure and tenuous thin cracks and slab, the route still retains its spicy feel. Even the rap over the big roof to get down is pretty fun.

K
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 25, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
Dammit I'm not sure who the chap is belaying. I imagine if we can somehow encourage Don to visit this forum page, he'd remember. I know that's Dave L in the red jacket and John H leaning against the granite in grey sweats & the old HH jacket ( one of which I"m wearing rite now - a MEC knockoff - I inherited from my Dad )
The others, but for Don, I no longer recognize.


Awesome work on Moving to Montana, K !!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 25, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
Well done Kris. I hope the route sees more traffic now.

And re the belayer in the photo, It looks kind of like Doug Fox, who was certainly a friend of Don's, but I'm not sure. Hard to imagine him in the pub with us scruffier types, but who knows?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
Nice work Kris.

Eric did one more route yesterday. Travis had cleaned up a nice 5.7 crack left of the burgers walk off.

He left his rope on it, so i snapped some pics of Eric on the solo FFA


Bearbreeder scoping the route.


Starting up. A little solo FA cleaning.

Tall Can Al spots.


I'll just clean this lock up a bit...


Reaching for glory.

Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 25, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
Here's the only phone shot I took today of the tips corner on M2M after the stump was pulled. Sorry for no scale in the picture... Its purple to blue TCU's for about 10m. Old school 10d. For you Valley folks, it's similar to the last pitch of The Moratorium, but not as steep.
Credit: Scrubber

K
gf

climber
Feb 25, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
Great work on M2M
classic Perry route.
RyanD

climber
Feb 25, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
Looking forward to checking this out scrubber, thanks for the efforts- post more pics when u get a chance!!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 25, 2015 - 08:05pm PT
Cool shares Squamish crew,
the Foot in the Gravy story was classic. lol
This thread rocks,
I lurk often.
Tad
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Feb 25, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
Hey KW - is that picture of the first pitch of Moving to Montana Commando Crack, as it is called in the guidebook? Or above Commando Crack?
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 25, 2015 - 10:22pm PT
It's the pitch above Commando Crack. Most folks start up to the right near the base of the Java Jive slab. I sure wish there was some way to divert the water flow that seeps out of the bottom half of Commando Crack. It's wet for so long that it needs a scrub every season that it actually dries.
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