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Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
Jan 12, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
Taking that approach to central colouir can only end one way....I'm sorry for the friends and families.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jan 12, 2015 - 09:48pm PT
Identified as "hikers" with crampons and roped together traveling where, "It's so steep that you're unable to arrest the fall on your own.... In general, that's a place where very experienced and capable mountaineers go."

That ain't hiking.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Jan 12, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
It will be interesting to hear the real story, "hikers" dont generally have ropes and the alpine select guide...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2015 - 12:15am PT
Pique has a few more facts. Or so it seems.

Whistler RCMP has recovered the bodies of three ice climbers who were reported missing earlier Monday, Jan. 12.

Whistler RCMP Staff Sgt. Steve LeClair said indications are the tragedy was a result of "a catastrophic slip-and-fall accident" that took place near the top of Joffre peak's central couloir when one of the climbers fell and brought down the others, who were tied together.

"There was no avalanche debris, so it didnít appear the cornice broke off or anything like that," he added.

Early information suggests the group was experienced in the backcountry, police said.

The victims have been identified as a man and women from the Lower Mainland in their mid-thirties, as well as a female international in her late twenties. Authorities are not releasing the names of the climbers at this time.

The three were part of a group of climbers and skiers in the area that had made plans to rendezvous at the end of the day. The skiers went searching for the climbers when they didnít arrive on time. LeClair said one of the female victims was separated from the group in the fall and her body was discovered by her husband just after 1:30 a.m. Police were unable to access the area at that time and initiated the search at first light on Monday, with the two remaining victims' bodies discovered shortly after.


http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/whistler/rcmp-investigating-death-of-ice-climber-searching-for-two-others-near-joffre-mountain/Content?oid=2636574

My condolences to the families and friends.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Jan 13, 2015 - 03:22am PT
I'm so sad for those who were out having fun in the mountains that it ended so horribly.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2015 - 09:56am PT
Ya Jim. Not a great day. I'm sure Keith's hut was a sad place after that discovery...
bm

Social climber
pluto
Jan 13, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
Awful news regarding the Joffre incident - two of the deceased were active VOC members, including a past president:

http://www.theprovince.com/Joffre+Peak+victim+Stephane+Grothe+loved+outdoors+colleagues/10725870/story.html
Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Jan 16, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
Thought I'd offer a short story about Daryl (Hatten). Well, it's not really a story, but rather a Kodak moment, so to speak.

It had to be back in the mid-eighties, and as usual the boys were over at my place in Victoria making spur of the moment plans to head off somewhere, and as usual I couldn't get vacation time to go along with them. This time their destination was the Cirque of the Unclimbables, and off they went.

After climbing thousands of glorious feet, they returned - about a week before somehow it was discovered that a film crew had headed in to get some footage for "The Clan of the Cave Bear".

So what, you may ask, but Daryl had a serious crush on the female lead, Daryl Hannah. Careful comparison of their names reveals an amazing similarity of spelling - a similarity that Daryl (Hatten) was convinced would have provided a foolproof opportunity for (our) Daryl to introduce himself to the lovely Ms. Hannah... if only the boys had arrived a goddamn week later.

It was nearly heartbreaking to witness Daryl gazing in despair (complete with furrowed brow) into his beer repeating his mantra of despair, which went "oh, man... man..." between gulps of his favourite beverage.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Jan 16, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
Like a Greek myth. Or a near myth.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jan 17, 2015 - 09:23am PT
Puntuality is everything...
Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Jan 17, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
MH2: Yeah, but alas, no deus ex machina for this Greek Tragedy. He also had a crush on Mariette Hartley, whom I believe he met during his Yosemite days, but unfortunately I can't remember any details.

Edit

Re: the Mariette Hartley connection - this may contain inaccuracies - perhaps some of his Yosemite pals could provide more exact information, but I think he may have met her when she was in a movie that had scenes filmed on El Cap. This may be connected to the story about him scooping 7(?) fixed ropes from the cliff & somehow hoping to pull off this exploit without attracting attention from every life form within sight. It still cracks me up to think about what a climber with seven ropes draped about his body must look like - the Michelin Man would look positively anorexic in comparison.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 17, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
Porteau Slabs? I know nuttink. Unless they are the roadside slabs which Jim Baldwin decided to solo one night, after too many brews. With predictable results.

Meanwhile back at Slab Alley. This is a pic of the 2nd asc, taken by Tricouni. [He and Anders think that it was the 3rd asc.] I got the US army surplus helmet at REI in Seattle, for US $2- and wore it for a while as a joke. My sweater is Royal Navy surplus, probably because the arms were a bit short. Does that army/navy combination make me a Marine?

Slab Alley, Pitch 2
Slab Alley, Pitch 2
Credit: Tricouni
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Jan 18, 2015 - 08:25am PT
At least a Marine considering the style is braver than most latter day ascents. How many bolts were there? Here is Tricouni in about the same position as hamie, with Anders ahead, shortly after Anders cleaned up the route.


Credit: MH2
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 18, 2015 - 10:17am PT
what's the deal with Happy Trails? has it ever been repeated? i can see part of that roof at right in MH2's shot
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Jan 18, 2015 - 11:06am PT
That photo of Slab Alley reminds me of my first visit to Squamish in 1973.
I was fifteen at the time and hitching back to the Island from a work stint in the Peace country and having recently seen the Vertical Desert, had to check out Squamish.
I remember arriving at night, camping by the old locomotive in Stan Clarke Park and having breakfast at Caribou Jack's before trudging over to the Chief.

Somehow I found myself up near Slab Alley and soloing up that obvious ramp to the right in my mountaineering boots and deciding it was a bit too dirty and exposed and retreating.

I then wandered up Psyche Ledge and hiked to the base of the Grand marvelling at the grey wall rising straight out of the forest just like in the beginning of the documentary.
Some Brit was leading Exasperator free and whacking pins to protect it.
I thought that was pretty cool and shared some of the tea I'd brewed at the base with the guys.
Turns out it was Kevin and he let me try the climb on a top rope and I made it to the last little foothold about 30 feet up in my stiff boots.

I carried on to the Island and that summer climbed Albert Edward, joined the Ramblers and did my epic trip across Strathcona to the Golden Hinde with Croft, Simon and DeGroot.
Didn't make it back to Squamish till April of 76 and the rest as they say, is history.
Reflecting back on the forty years since, so am I.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 18, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
Nice pic, MH2. It provides a great alternate perspective. Also another good tale from Perry.

When Glenn and I did SA it was only the 2nd [3rd?] time that anyone had climbed the Apron. I copied out Baldwin's lengthy [also hand-written] description, which I still have today. The details for the approach take 6 lines, as noone else knew anything about the Apron, and of course there was no trail.

When Anders rehabilitated the route I sent him a photocopy of Jim's original beta. All 15+ lines! The description for this traversing pitch [2nd] lists 2 bolts, and "belay on angle pitons". Only one other bolt is mentioned, on a "rounded ridge", pitch 7. I think that there was a short bolt ladder somewhere, but it is not described as such. Anders added a few more bolts in the interest of improving the line, and overall experience. This was done after considerable consultation with other climbers.

SA is lots of fun, and well worth the time. Today's young guns will likely dispense with the rope, and be up in 20-30 minutes. Others will linger longer, smelling the coffee.

Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Jan 18, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
Chief: Ships that pass in the night. We climbed the Hinde in August(?) '73 to grab material for a book we were putting together about Strathcona Park. We headed in through Phillips Creek & came out by Western Mines & didn't meet another soul other than Bob Tustin and some of his pals who were heading out just as we were arriving.
ajamunro

Social climber
BC
Jan 24, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
Hey all!

I've been reading up from the beginning of this thread. I've really enjoyed the stories, the TRs, the photos, and certainly the banter. I think I'm up to February 2013 right now. The time spent reading could of course be spent bettering myself, it is really getting me excited for this up coming season. The stoke, as they say, is high and the list of "must climb in 2015" continues the expand.

Here is my first contribution to this very well-intentioned thread.
Me pressing it out on a slab/crack combo up at Funarama, this past Nov...
Me pressing it out on a slab/crack combo up at Funarama, this past November.
Credit: ajamunro

Looking forward to the spring! My wife and I have been looking at houses, townhomes and condos in Squamish. I'm pretty gung-ho on the idea, my partner, not as much, but we're working on it.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 24, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
That looks like September Song. You'd have been better off with both feet it it...
Rolfr

Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Jan 25, 2015 - 10:13am PT
Fun O Rama, named after the 1970's Chek TV , after school cartoon hour. I think September Song was a Joe Turley's route. A lot of the original routes up there have now been re worked, f..ked up and amalgamated into newer squeeze jobs.
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