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brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Aug 8, 2018 - 10:35pm PT
MH2: looks like M-A scrambling the pillar..
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Aug 9, 2018 - 10:14am PT
Thanks. My guess,too.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 10, 2018 - 10:09am PT
A few people on this forum will probably remember Tim Auger. He climbed extensively at Squamish in the 1960s, where he made the 2nd ascent of the Grand Wall (to Dance Platform) and 1st ascent of University Wall. He climbed in Yosemite for a few seasons, made two trips to the Himalayas (successful on Pumori), but spent most of his life in mountain rescue with the Warden Service in Banff National Park.

Tim had been in poor health for a few years, and he died last night, age 72, in Banff.

Glenn Woodsworth
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Aug 10, 2018 - 12:26pm PT
A sad day.
The passing of a great human and a climbing legend.
So much to learn from his example.

RIP Tim

PB
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 10, 2018 - 04:44pm PT
When I first started climbing in Squamish 45 years ago, Tim was already a legend -- but he was no longer in Squamish. And when I started climbing in the Rockies, I thought I'd surely run into him someday. But I never did, and now I never will.

RIP.

___

And yes, Greg is right in his memory of Gordie's account of the FA of Apron Strings. The Bloodlust note is worded similarly, but refers to "a couple of yanks wearing wet ties"
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 10, 2018 - 06:40pm PT
I think in the beer-drinking sense, Tim was part of an earlier generation. He certainly liked a beer in the Chieftan, but I (and another old friend) don't recall him really putting it away like some of us. As for the boat races, none of us climbers could do that, but one hard-core beer drinker in our crowd could. But he wasn't a climber.

And the drinking age was still 21. So in 1965, Tim would have only been 19 or so. He always looked so young, he probably had trouble getting into beer parlours (no pubs in those days).

Here's a photo of Tim in full U-Wall regalia, 1966.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Aug 10, 2018 - 07:02pm PT
Wow!
That’s an awesome photo.
There was only a handful of climbers in Squamish on any given weekend when I started in 76.
Tim would have looked like an alien space traveller to the locals in that get up in 66.
A solitary pioneer indeed.

Respect!

(Can we assume he's standing on Psyche Ledge?)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 12, 2018 - 11:06am PT
Is this for real?

I don't Facebook, but a friend sent me a link to this post on the "Squamish Rock Climbing Group" on FB.

Troll? For Real?

Link is:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/squamishrockclimbing/permalink/1905802106151818/?comment_id=1907758982622797&comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R%22%7D

And here's a screenshot of the FB page:

domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 12, 2018 - 11:22am PT
Haha, I just saw that today too...Trolllolol

Anywho - Hatten & Weinstein's Up From The Skies saw a recent ascent. Good job fellas.

Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 13, 2018 - 03:11pm PT
Psyche Ledge reminder.
Saturday Sept. 15.

Just sayin’
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 14, 2018 - 10:14am PT
Obscure Squamish summit. How many ascents, two?
domngo

climber
Canada
Sep 14, 2018 - 10:47am PT
Hope to maybe get psyched with yall!

Definitely more than two...I know of at least 4? Danny Guestrin recently put a register up there...last year I think

A fun little multi-sporting adventure, I think. Sweet angle. Is that from a UAV or were you flying low-level down the Sound?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Sep 14, 2018 - 11:10am PT
I've been up it about 4 times. Maybe 3, maybe 5. I'd l would guess a couple of dozen ascents.

Edit: And I've been up it solo and in mid-winter, with a wisk-broom. So probably 5 for me.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 14, 2018 - 12:24pm PT
I had no idea it was getting that popular!
From a helicopter Dom. Flying back from Potlatch.

Some great unclimbed boulder problems waiting there for when heli-bouldering becomes a thing
Bill Noble

climber
Golden BC
Sep 14, 2018 - 01:43pm PT
Now that looks like a face worth climbing. I'm yanking the pull cord on my Robinson, loading it up with wire brushes, chalk bags and an assortment of various specialty footwear. How does CBH (Canadian Bouldering Holidays) ring? Or it could be CBD....no explanation necessary.

The truth can be stranger than fiction?

Hats off to Glenn, Dick and whoever else has visited the worthy somewhat mysterious summits of the Touch'n Go and Castle.
pixel

Trad climber
Squamish, BC
Sep 26, 2018 - 01:25pm PT
We noticed this crack by the side of the gondola access road a few weeks ago, and last Sunday we came back to try aid climbing it.


It turned out to be a marathon of digging clayey mud out of the crack, but there's some good cam hooking on vertical terrain. The section above the roof was kind of a nightmare of slipping on mud and pulling on shrubs to get to a tree I felt comfortable anchoring on. But the red-topped Cladonia lichen was pretty.


It didn't look as if anyone had been up there before, but does anyone know of any development in that area? Edit: identified with help from the community as High Country, details downthread.

Location: 1.5 kilometres down from the gondola, close to the gate (and on the outside of it). Beside a sign reading "9."

Difficulty (edited): Below the roof, it's very straightforward with only one spot with two progression-only pieces in a row above a safe fall; above the roof is a very dirty few metres of bad placements and pulling on shrubs before you can get to a rappellable tree. The A3 grade given in the Jim Campbell guidebook seems too stiff, unless it refers to the sketch factor of going farther to a higher anchor.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 26, 2018 - 01:47pm PT
There was some aid line near the current location of the gate in the Campbell book iirc. Check the 1985 guidebook for details.
pixel

Trad climber
Squamish, BC
Sep 26, 2018 - 03:38pm PT
I've put a hold on the 1985 Campbell guidebook at the library. I'll take a look. Thanks for the tip!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 26, 2018 - 04:11pm PT
NP. If I'm thinking of the right climb, there were two aid routes on the Habrich road listed in the Campbell guide - Easy Day for a Lady (at the present Ultraviolet Cliff) and another one, which might have been called High Country? I think that latter one was the one that was further down the road, near the present gate location.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 26, 2018 - 07:14pm PT
It didn't look as if anyone had been up there before, but does anyone know of any development in that area?

Even if no one knows of any development in that area, there still might have been development in that area. Way back when, no one was keeping track of that kind of thing. Somebody -- like you -- saw something and went up on it to see what was there.

If it turned out to be something that caught their attention, they worked on it and you can now read about it in a guidebook. But if they lost interest, or found something that seemed more compelling, then it disappeared from human ken.

Examples? Sure. When we were working on what ultimately became Borderline, my partners were stuck in the US for a while, so I went up and cleaned and climbed the fourth pitch. And, despite the fact that the whole wall was without any evidence of previous passage, I found a next of hexes in the crack under the roof. Since it was hexes, and not pins, it was placed no earlier than the mid- to late-70s. But I never learned anything about it.

Someone exploring something on the wall above and having to bail?

That seems the likeliest explanation. But who knows?

Or, again, when we were working on part of what eventually became Rock On, there was no sign at all of any previous passage. Dirt-filled cracks complete with trees and roots. Which we dug out. So we assumed we were exploring new territory. But Hamish Mutch (posts here as Hamie), has shown me pictures of the third pitch taken when he climbed it a decade or so before we did.

That pitch was under an overhang, so needed no cleaning, so it's possible that the first two pitches we climbed were different from what he climbed, but who knows?

People have been exploring the rock around Squamish for what? 70 years? So who knows if the virgin ground you ascend is really virgin? Maybe Tricouni or Hamie, or the guys from the Squamish Hard Core, checked it out before you were born.

Doesn't matter. If it's new to you, it's new to you.
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