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Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 23, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
Maybe Hamie's is the Savona Balanced Rock or something. Looks like till, not even lithified yet.

Going by the size of the boulder on top it would be funny if you ran into a hoodoo where you had to ice climb up a pillar of unconsolidated silt and then switch to rock shoes for a V10 problem on the capstone boulder ;)

Probably getting down would be the simplest thing imaginable. Just give it a good kick and down you go.

Getting down safely, though....
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 24, 2014 - 01:00am PT
Dru
It's in the Chilcotin somewhere. Up some creek like Relay, Tyaxe, Tyaughton or?????? Too many creeks, too many years!! It definitely has your name on it. You and BK.....

The youngsters on this thread will be interested to learn about Dick's pro when he led the other pillar. First he climbed the tree on the right, attached a sling as high as he could, threaded the rope and came back down. He then climbed the pillar without any other pro, just using the sling in the tree. Pretty cool!

Glenn I have forgotten how you guys got down. Did you place a bolt on top, or rappel down the opposite side?

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 24, 2014 - 02:21am PT
Hamie, thanks for the comment. Actually, I climbed the tree, really high, anchored to it and belayed from near the top of the tree. I don't know how much good the belay would have done from a fall high on the Pillar, but it certainly would have been "dynamic" enough, with the tree whipping around and bending and (the thought crossed my mind) maybe breaking.

We rapped off the other side. An "interesting" start to a long summer.

My diary says FA was May 28, 1962, so just a few days shy of 52 years ago....
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 24, 2014 - 02:38am PT
Glenn

That must be a typo/transposition. Couldn't possibly be 52 years ago. You must mean 25?
LOLx10.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 24, 2014 - 10:03am PT
Just 4 days after my first. So that why you missed my party!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 24, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
I wish it was 25, but sadly....
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 24, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
Throwback Thursday continues.... MH2 in search of some alpine granite. Sadly most of our planned route was just as bushy as this approach!

Schwacking
Schwacking
Credit: Oplopanax

As I recall it the bush was so wet we seriously considered using a $5 bill as firestarter to get dried off. Fortunately one of us had a bunch of junk receipts, Canadian Tire money, shopping lists etc. in the wallet (yeah, carrying a full wallet to go alpine climbing) that we used instead.
MH2

climber
Apr 24, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
Ah, the good old days. Several trips were needed before even getting to the rock. I was having a hard time locating the photos until I remembered to search for Hard Target.





edit

looks like the same colour ensemble as on the guidebook covers

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 24, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
Looks like a well worked cutblock!
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 25, 2014 - 01:09am PT
MH2

Is that look "steely eyes" or "glazed eyes"?

Some nice clean slabs behind. So where is it? Coquihalla somewhere?
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 25, 2014 - 01:13am PT
Glenn

Your "boots" thread is intriguing. Is that a climbing trip? geology? book research? How long, where etc? Questions, questions....... No doubt classified info.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 25, 2014 - 02:06am PT
Naw, nothing classified. Some geological colleagues and I have some $$ for a 2-year project in the Bute Inlet/Waddington area. We've been mainly working on the water for the past 10 years, so it'll be good to get back into the mountains. Maybe we will climb a few things along the way (it's happened before).

(My colleague was one of the climbers on the first all-female ascent of Annapurna, back whenever). We've been working together since 1986.
MH2

climber
Apr 25, 2014 - 10:21am PT
hamie,

I am the person in the photo above that one. The eyes belong to Oplopanax, perhaps looking into a future of bushwacking to less travelled BC summits. That bump in the picture is near Needle Peak. I think it was the second pitch where the decomposing granite turned me back. The gear was not secure and the possibility of raining destruction down on the belayer seemed high.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 25, 2014 - 10:45am PT
kitty litter and the Anderson River peaks are married at the hip. That and munge. I can think of one zone that bucks the trend at least a bit - Les Cornes / Springbok. Unfortunately, it dosn't include Stienbok much in that equation.

So over the years I've seen little glimpses of various other features that might be good, like Needle or the north side of Yak. Whats the story? The only attempt i know on Yak is one winter effort and just that one skyline ridge on Needle. What else is there? I'm not getting any younger and its a long drive to Washington pass.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 25, 2014 - 12:48pm PT
Bruce,

The east side of Needle has some solid rock but also some prime dirt.



There's great rock on Ibex. Don't know why there aren't more routes.



Well, actually I do know why there aren't more routes. We went back to try something pretty close to this route and got shut down by a wet offwidth. Probably dries out later in the season though.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 25, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
Yes Ibex looks good but thats part of the Les Cornes cirque

unclimbed Ibex wall in back ground.  Note lack of Munge in crack
unclimbed Ibex wall in back ground. Note lack of Munge in crack
Credit: Bruce Kay

looks can be deceptive, but a little scrub could work wonders!
looks can be deceptive, but a little scrub could work wonders!
Credit: Bruce Kay
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 25, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
Actually this is the other side of Ibex.

Alpaca and Vicuna also have great rock.

Bleached old fixed rope on Vicuna east face
Bleached old fixed rope on Vicuna east face
Credit: Oplopanax

Somebody out there has to know the story on this one. Been searching for info on attempt on this face with a decade now with no responses.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 26, 2014 - 01:16am PT
Arlene Blum is an amazing person. Her autobiography "Breaking Trail", which covers her life up to 1993, is well named, and is definitely worth a read. Great mountaineer, outstanding scientist, she led the way in the 70s and 80s. High Fives!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 26, 2014 - 01:34am PT
Awesome stuff guys!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 26, 2014 - 02:28am PT
Arlene Blum: I've never met her, but hope to, some day. My friend was on that Annapurna expedition. She was climbing strongly to about 7500 metres, but she froze her feet and that put her out of contention for one of the summit teams. I'm glad she wasn't on the second summit team....
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