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Messages 7141 - 7160 of total 7550 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 3, 2016 - 06:53pm PT
Thanks, Greg. I just ran across some ancient rating sheets. Looks like we might have once played in the same tournament (he was in the junior section). Glenn
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Apr 9, 2016 - 10:44am PT
Is Squamish heading for Disneyland status?
http://www.bcbusiness.ca/tourism-culture/bc-approves-a-multi-billion-dollar-ski-resort-that-the-industry-doesnt-want
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Apr 9, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
It's an old formula and probably a fait accompli.
Land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area
Good bye Crown land including Cat Lake.
Dangle some trinkets in front of First Nations, socialize loss and privatize profit.
Too big to fail.

Maybe I'm being too optimistic?
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Apr 10, 2016 - 09:24am PT
Ray Charles could see there's no ski area on Brohm Ridge of the magnitude proposed.
My point is that it's a land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area and that on that basis, it's probably going to happen.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 10, 2016 - 10:17am PT
My point is that it's a land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area

Like Furry Creek "golf course." Even a non-golfer can see that the side of a mountain is a stupid place for a golf course. But putting in a "golf course" makes it attractive for real estate development, and...

Which is not to say there was anything underhanded about the Furry Creek development -- I have no idea. But Garibaldi as a ski area makes about as much sense as Furry Creek as a golf course.
domngo

climber
Canada
Apr 10, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
What a great bit of high pressure we've been graced with.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
Perry is right. Gas is a real shame. There's no water there and the environment / local ski hills will suffer as a result of it. Not to mention stealing prime sledding terrain!

The skiing is simply not worth the effort, but the real estate is the real goal. It's ironic because Brohm has seen a failed resort before. That's why those nice cabins are up there..

Great work Eric!! I have no idea who that tall soloist could be... Lol!! What does Dave's new FA go at?

I've been super busy lately, but I managed to sneak out for a bit with Phil this morning.

We wanted to rope up, but the weather had different ideas so we hid in the forest instead.

Ryan L

climber
PORT MOODY
Apr 28, 2016 - 01:26pm PT

This climb is super fun, one of the best recent additions to B&F :)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 07:43am PT
I hope everyone's been getting out lots with this beautiful weather we've been having!! I haven't unfortunately. Adult responsibilities (ugh!) and my body have been holding me back.

I'm at penny lane atm, just enjoying the atmosphere while i eat my breakfast and was wondering if any of you could identify this incredibly well lit open book on the north north aret?

supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
May 2, 2016 - 07:50am PT
The guidebook says there's nothing up there - the calling (12a) is the white mark to the right of your diedre.

Go climb it BM!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 08:37am PT
Which book supafly? I find it hard to believe that gem hasn't seen an ascent!?
supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
May 2, 2016 - 08:38am PT
Select.. so yeah may appear in the old Mclane climbers guide.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
May 2, 2016 - 10:19am PT
That corner jumps out in some light and hides at other times.

Maybe check with Paul Cordy for current info. Last time I did North North Arete there were signs of his Parallel Passages activity in the vicinity.

Here is a photo from the parking for Slhanay. From left to right the arrows show Public Image, Parallel Passages, and Northern Lights.

North North Arete is out of sight around to the left of the corner.



Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
May 2, 2016 - 11:20am PT
Looks way easier to clean the two aretes to left and right respectively. surprised Harry isn't up there right now actually
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
May 2, 2016 - 12:20pm PT
Where does the North North Arete route go in this area?
domngo

climber
Canada
May 2, 2016 - 05:03pm PT

Was wondering if anyone could ID this thing...
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
May 2, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
This area, the North North Arete



1. Big Mike's corner (see posts above)

2. Blocky tower (see below)

3. Where the route North North Arete finishes



The route North North Arete

from the 1992 McLane guide

lower part





upper part

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
I look forward to Kevin's latest Complete Guide to The Squamish Chief. The select book is good and useful but naturally lacking in presenting amazing obscurities.

Indeed Jim. As I suspected this corner has a name. It's Tattered Tights and it goes at 10c.
The description reads "Rappel in from the North North Arete at Indica Point and climb back out to the top via cracks."

It also has a happy face next to it which indicates that it is "A good climb that is prone to becoming vegetated, or is badly in need of a retro, but otherwise meriting stars."

Here is the topo.
Climbers Guide to Squamish 2005 edition by Kevin Mclane.

Andy, thank you much for those lovely photos!! They are a welcome window into that area. It looks as if you should be able to traverse in from the bottom as well. The corner looks simply stunning. Well worth a little elbow grease, In my opinion!

Can you guys guess who climbed it first? (Most of the stuff up there was climbed by one party...)


For me this illustrates how strong the need is for a new comprehensive guide. The situation here in Squamish is very similar to the situation in Yosemite right now, where a small number of climbs are receiving a disproportionate amount of traffic because the beta for the obscurities is hard to come by. There is a ton of climbing that a lot of people just simply don't know about.

When i got my hands on the most recent Reid guide in the valley a couple of springs ago i nearly shat my drawers! There are so many amazing routes to be discovered, as is the case here. The beta should be available to the people. I wish Kevin would continue to sell his 2005 edition until he comes out with the new guide....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
You got it Tami!

That area is actually unaffected. If you look at my photo above, you can see the rock scar well to the right of Twisted Tights. The scar is actually the top of the Calling.

That whole area looks wild. Pterydactles definetly still roam there.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
May 2, 2016 - 11:27pm PT
Hmmm... looking at those photos I'm not sure now just what Leif Patterson and I climbed. Whatever, it is obviously one of the obscurities, and probably best left as such.
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