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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Merry Christmas everyone!! Riles, never heard of that place. Was it in creekside? Sounds like a blast!!
Ryan- Me get a grade wrong?.. Never.. Lol ;)
Sweet pano Don! Hope you had a great day!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 26, 2015 - 10:59am PT
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ajamunro
Social climber
BC
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Happy New Year!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2016 - 08:20am PT
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Beauty pics guys and gals and Happy New year!!
For anyone wanting to climb in the mountains this is your chance!! It'll be t-shirt weather at Spanky's wall today!!!
Ryand on Finestone Cowboy 11d
Kyle on Blister in the Sun 5.9
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Why would you climb on a sunny pinncle when you could be shivering your way up thin ice on Fluffy Kitten in the shade all day ??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2016 - 05:02am PT
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Because some of us enjoy warm rock Dru... ;) Ice climbing is fun tho.. I just prefer the "security" of rock. ;)
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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Any ideas on what might be dry enough to climb this sunday (1/24)?
Two climbs I would like to do:
Great Game
Bulletheads East
Do they dry quickly? Other suggestions?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
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Well now,
as always ya' all are the finest examples of best of the taco. . .
I'm only here but once in a blue moon - today is big mikes Birth day,
So I thought it time to get full value out of my time at the Taco stand and this thread never disappoints !
Hamie way back . . . the 1st PM, I received was that short missive from you.
It was a delight in its brevity and directness. on 9/30/14
Gnome
Please delete your silly post, #7991 on Big Mike's "Squamish Photos and Stories" thread.
Thank you,
Hamie. This was in reference to my attempts to fight a spam attack that started while I was posting,
so I just did drive by bumping, any thread with pages helped?
Anyway I would be proud to share a round with any of ya.
It is a standing offer, not that it is worth much but you never know,
Please feel free to contact me in small rock hell about anything at all.
gnomeofthediabase@gmail.com
GO GO GO - COW POWER
#8456? Seems like I try - But I don't look at the numbers
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
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Good luck.
I'm pretty sure both those climbs are soaked. Bullethead E is only a 5 min walk from the car so might be worth a look, but.....
If its windy though, and you just have to multipitch, you might get lucky slabbing your way up the Bulletheads via women in comfortable shoes, xenolith dance, & ride the bullet at which point you can scramble down the sketchy handline or go up I think it's called moonwatcher 5.9? And walk up along the top of tantalus wall until you join the belly good trail. All quality pitches that link up nicely and dry real quick if there's a breeze.
+ quick draws only!
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:55pm PT
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Detailed Forecast ..calls for wet cracks all around.
Tonight Cloudy. Rain beginning this evening. Amount 20 mm. Low plus 3.
Thu, 21 Jan Rain at times heavy. Amount 50 to 70 mm. High 6.
Night Rain at times heavy. Low plus 5.
Fri, 22 Jan Cloudy with 60 percent chance of showers. High 7.
Night Cloudy with 60 percent chance of showers. Low plus 3.
Sat, 23 Jan Cloudy with 40 percent chance of showers. High 7.
Night Cloudy with 40 percent chance of showers. Low plus 2.
Sun, 24 Jan Cloudy with 30 percent chance of showers. High 6.
Night Cloudy with 60 percent chance of showers. Low zero.
If we get some wind and a bit of sun, then by Sunday you might be able to do some face climbing on the Malamute or something..
Edit..good call on the Bulletheads, another wind exposed zone
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 20, 2016 - 05:47pm PT
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A viable wet weather option: Mercy Me. Can be approached by the Flake Trail as described in McLane or Bourdon guides. I once did both pitches in light rain with Oplopanax. I am pretty sure the first pitch would be fine in heavier rain but don't recommend the second pitch. It would be easy face climbing with all the vegetation killed off by heavy traffic and the shoe rubber on wet rock friction is good. A fun excursion.
For crack climbing, the first pitch of Sentry Box might be dry enough.
I have an idea that the upper Black Dyke might be doable in rain, but haven't tried it.
I would stay away from Great Game and Bulletheads East but if you can get off the ground on Exasperator, the rest should go, too.
It doesn't have to be fun to be fun, as someone said.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 20, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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Good point, Jim, but pretty sure the liver is in the lower part.
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 20, 2016 - 06:16pm PT
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Upper black dyke definitely doesn't work after heavy rain, perhaps during a summer or fall storm but I think there's a waterfall on the roof starting the third pitch that rinses the first 2 pretty good, we experienced this during a march ascent one year. Above the roof it wasn't too bad.
Be aware that this time of year that off bellygood or anywhere on the base of the wall comes with the opportunity to test the law of averages with falling ice chunks currently. I tested it yesterday while out for a stroll so the odds will be a little lower for the rest :-)
I have a theory that the fastest drying single crag in Squamish may be Woodstock
Of course there's always that other pile of blobs of granite that cooled just NE of downtown.
You'll see this guy there for sure.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Jan 21, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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That should teach me to look at US weather reports for BC. Yesterday I saw only a 10% chance of rain both saturday and ssunday, so I got my hopes up. Oh well, I may just go skiing instead.
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Presto
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 21, 2016 - 10:43am PT
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Yesterday I saw only a 10% chance of rain both saturday and ssunday, It's a typo. They forgot the other zero.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Jan 21, 2016 - 11:20am PT
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Freezing level is a bit high for today's storm so I'll probably go try and find something dry at the Smokebluffs on Saturday instead of skiing :)
Anyone know how fast the Malamute dries out?
-RyanL
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jan 22, 2016 - 04:45pm PT
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This afternoon, post rainstorm..
Sun is on the Bulletheads, Malamute, Papoose.. Its also shining on the Gobsmacking Wall.. some great climbing up there. Man of Leisure is a fine route,mostly a face climb.. could be worth a look
Sun in the forecast now for tomorrow.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 22, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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Beautiful. Looks like Shannon Falls is in spate.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Jan 25, 2016 - 11:44pm PT
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We unfortunately got stuck in that traffic mess too, they closed northbound 5-10 minutes before we got to Lions Bay
Ended up escaping and went climbing at Lighthouse park instead. It was alright, we made up a silly traverse line around the entire Juniper Point from one side to the other. It goes at 5.10a, optional gear belay on a nice ledge midway makes splits it into two pitches 5.8 and 5.10a. I am sure someone has climbed it before but I shall call it "The Scenic Route" :)
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