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Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 4, 2014 - 12:03am PT
GF - or Hamish, could one of you guys clear up the details on this? I'm a little fuzzy.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1001452&tn=20#msg2379322
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
Ok. First of all I must apologize. Tooth asked for Photos and Stories not drama and butthurt. lol

So, to atone, I went climbing this week and managed to get 19 pitches in over 3 days, which is pretty good for me lately.. lol

On Monday I showed up late and joined the party already in progress at of all locations, High Cliff.


Kyle was bored of waiting for Lord of the Drink so he soloed Step n' Stump 5.7


When he finally did get on it, he didn't do so well. I jumped on the gift and it felt super good to lead it again.

After we went around the corner and Jay and Richie showed up to have a go at Red Nails.

The scene at High Cliff


Jay trying to figure out the opening sequence on Red Nails 11c


Kyle had a score to settle with Fred Snails so he roped up for it. The top could use a bit of a scrub. lol

Kyle starting up Fred Snails 11a




Jay did pretty good after the crux on Red Nails


I flailed up the crux of Fred Snails, and then we did Miner Matters 10b and Run Like A Thief 10a neither of which i managed clean.

On the way back to the truck I could hardly resist capturing this sight.


We headed up to the top of Neat and Cool for some after hours bouldering with Ryan before heading home.

The insatiable Kyle on a dusk ascent of the Neat and Cool boulders


Howe sound at it's finest


Tuesday I had no partner. So i decided to make lemonade out of the lemons and went to burgers to practice my lower-outs. I toproped Peaches and Cream which still eludes me and then burgers in my approach shoes a couple times because it was the only climb free. I did a few lowerout jug practices on it after.

Dusty eyes finally freed up, and i solo aided it with my trusty partner grigri. Everything was mellow on it until the very end where i forgot to clip my rope to the last piece of pro and i was looking at an interesting fall with just enough slack before the clove hitch to make the move and disengage the cam to gain leeway to make the mantle in my camp four's.. lol

following was a breeze in comparison.

After I saw Bearbreeder in the parking lot and we arranged to hook up for some of this on Wednesday:

Eric Chan Photo
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
Thanks for the stoke Mike,

Yeah sunshine crack is in the Bugs I think right?

Should probably go do that too!
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
This is what I really want when I get out there. And the route I was thinking of...

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-grand-wall/105806397
Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Apr 4, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
There you go Sanskara! The Sword/split piller is as good as a die-he-dral gets!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
Yes they are.

Luke on the Split Pillar



Luke on the sword


Which btw, it is very nice to hear the kid's voice again here. Keep posting up Kyle's pics bro! Too bad he chooses not to participate here. comeon kyle i know you're reading this! lol
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
That's the climb.

Is it legit 11a sustained? Give me the local beta.

Thanks for the pics.

If i get my sh#t together I could get that 10b climb done this season even after the fractured calcaneus. Might have to wait till next season for the grand wall, who knows though I did f*#k this hoof up on my first day out of the season on a mid 11...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
It's cruxy. super pumpy towards the top. The grand is meat and potatoes climbing, just a lot of it for a long time.
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
How long does it take on average for a competent 5.11 leader to get up it...

Is it outa question for someone that is a competent 5.10 leader throughout the letter grades and can lead 5.11 gear but its work?

I'm good at strong guy climbing not so much über technical slabby sh#t. In shape I can climb up into the 10D range on New England slab with maybe one or two falls? I can get 10b-c slab normally on sight. Juggy muscle climbs of the same grade I can normally on sight
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
Sounds like it's right up your alley. Me (10d leader max) and another 5.11- climber did it last spring in 4.5-5 hours around? that's if you get off at bellygood ledge.

I was gassed by the last pitch, the sail flake, and fell off after i removed the last piece. Ended up dangling there so i prussiked up the rope to the next piece. lol

Lots of sustained crack climbing. you'll love it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
7000!!! wooohoo!
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
You snagged it, nice!

Me and you are probably similar then as far as climbing ability.

I stated what I can do on gear above but in all honest 10D at the Gunks can kick my ass on the sharp end. In Nh for some reason I can do that but its work and full commitment.

Sport I can on sight 11A normally and then work 12's although I really only get a handful of 12's under my belt a season and they are normally gym and sport routes. Actually they are always gym and sport routes...

Whatever I am climbing that flake!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
LoL ya we would have been on par. I suffered a major setback last year tho so right now i'm lucky to climb 10b.. lol i'm working on it though. by the time your heel is good i'll be ready.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
When I did it we got stuck behind a slow party. I led the Split Pillar straight in, sussing each piece, like a man... my partner had done it 10 or so times and claims he liebacks the whole thing, blindly stuffing 3-4 blue cameltwats in for pro... "it is 5.11, no way I'm going to fall." I was wedging all kinds of body parts by the time I got to the top and resisted liebacking on moral grounds.

He aided through some bolts at the top of the pillar, assuring me it sucked to climb, then gave me Perry's. We finished on the Black Dike (a bit heady).

Pretty sure we didn't start before 10 and we were down in time for a snack, a couple beers, and an evening of bouldering.

Squshami is awesome! I mean... it really sucks and nobody should ever go there.
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
Yeah I have Leto track of your I injury. Being this is my favorite ST thread it was kinda hard to miss.

I just made a profile when I got hurt but I have lurked for at least a couple years?

Had a trip planned out that way late summer, I think I said that already but that has since changed.

I gotta get myself out there and soon thought. I did the whole Rockies ice trip last winter and fell in love. I have a feeling I will feel the same way about Squamish. You all would ne have me, I gotta even get my papers straight to make sure they don't try and turn me around at the border again.
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:57pm PT
Me thanks for the info, I am sure later tonight I will read that like 20 times and store the info away..
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 12:40am PT
lol Wes. Nice story. Thanks. Your friend was right, unless you're fond of 13b slab. Come on back up some time!

Being this is my favorite ST thread it was kinda hard to miss.


Thanks for the compliment. You'll love it up here, hope you sort the papers out.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 01:14am PT
Wednesday I hooked up with Bearbreeder. Being that it was still a little nippy until the sun came around, we decided to crag at the smoke bluffs a little before heading up the apron.

First we did Flying Circus 10a

Eric Chan Photo

Muscle memory got me through this one although it wasn't pretty.

Then he put up Neat and Cool 10a

Eric Chan Photo

This one kicked my ass. I came off a couple times before grabbing a draw to help me through the move. still need more training.

Next climb up was the Edge 5.9

Eric Chan Photo

I should have wore my edging shoes for this one! My mythos didn't cut it.

With warm-ups we adjourned to the apron to tackle our main objective for the day, Calculus Crack.

Me coming up the second pitch

Eric Chan Photo

I took what i thought was my wallet out of my pocket and left it in the car, but it turned out I actually left my phone in the car and brought my wallet climbing, so no pictures of Eric!

Third pitch was my lead. I love running it out on those amazing jams!

Eric Chan Photo

Eric took the next lead and dispatched it with no trouble, however, for his opening piece just off the belay, he slotted a nut, and clipped it with a single locker. The piece was a couple feet off the belay, just far enough so that i had to step up on to some crappy smears and fight the nut which had of course wedged itself completely sideways in the finger crack directly below my hold.

To make matters worse my nut tool was buried in a clusterfvck of gear so i had to dig through it with one hand while desperately trying to hold on with the other. I managed to get it out and give it a good tap after a couple unintentional attempts at slitting my wrists with the abortion tool.

After that the crux seemed kind of alien, even though i did it again this summer, but i think i was just a little rattled after having to deal with that nut.. lol

Coming up to the notch belay.

Eric Chan Photo

I led the last pitch and dragged Bearbreeder on simul to the tree at the top for the last 20 easy meters. I really didn't want to set up another belay! lol.

Eric wanted to rap down Bad Pants Party and avoid the walk off.

Eric Chan photo

Starting the first rappel

Eric Chan photo

It was another beautiful day out, and nice to get on the chief for a change.

Thanks Eric!!
Sanskara

climber
Apr 5, 2014 - 01:26am PT
The papers are fine just gotta get them...

I'm a lazy bum about sh#t like that. I'll get em, it's something to do instead of watch old Dukes Of Hazard and I Dream Of Jeannie reruns all day...

Looks like you had the worst day ever!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 5, 2014 - 01:50am PT
Pretty sure we didn't start before 10 and we were down in time for a snack, a couple beers, and an evening of bouldering.

Last time I climbed the Grand it was a hot mid-summer day, so we started (that is, woke up) at about 6. The sun broke over the rim just as Robert pulled the last move onto Bellygood. So probably less than five hours on the climb. If Robert had been climbing it with someone on his level, it would have taken about 2 hours. Hamish and Peder climbed it five times one day, and that was with a break in the afternoon to let a rain shower pass.

The real secret is just being physically fit and confident.



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