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Messages 6881 - 6900 of total 7787 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 13, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
Lololololol
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:34am PT
Ok it's not in the bluffs, not at the malamute, probably not Murrin by the look of the stone. The tree in the background is pretty big so I'm going to say something in the valley of shaddai.

Even in the ballpark or what??
MH2

climber
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:59am PT
spruce?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:33am PT
spruce?

Spruce? I don't know nuthin about trees. But Ryan is definitely in the ballpark. Valley of Shaddai for sure. Start of the third pitch of the Avalon Connection.

Great climb in an incredible place.
MH2

climber
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:36am PT
Thanks! My headache went away. I have done that route, but did not recognize it.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:40am PT
Nice Ghost, that looks quality!

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 14, 2014 - 11:31am PT
do you ape across that traverse, or sneak down the rampy feature to the spot where the photographer is standing?

edit: nevermind. looked in the book.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
do you ape across that traverse, or sneak down the rampy feature

The crack is actually the upper edge of a flake and you can get your whole arm into it and hang off a sort of easy chicken wing. And the rampy feature is not a feature -- just looks like one in the photo. So, yeah, you ape across that part.

But the real business is at the end of the traverse where you have to switch up and into another upward traversing crack.

First time we climbed it we knew nothing about it. Just a description in the guidebook that made it sound like a fun and easy 3-pitch outing to end the day in the Valley of Shaddai (i.e. it ends at the rim so you don't have to do the death gulley climb to get out). I think it was written up as something like 5.9, 10a, 10a.

What a joke.

But it truly is a great climb. Okay, it's not High Plains Drifter, but it offers excellent and varied climbing in an amazing spot. When you're in the Valley of Shaddai, it's almost as if you'd stepped through a wormhole into some other place than Squamish.

So if you haven't climbed it, put it on your list, cuz it's definitely worth the entry fee. Just don't expect easy.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
list of climbs to do edit- rescrub


-Avalon connection. Valley of Shaddai
 ?




Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
From what I recall it needs a three pitch rescrub to be climbable at this point.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 17, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
Uh oh!
Uh oh!
Credit: RyanD

Happy st party's day everyone!
this just in

climber
north fork
Mar 17, 2014 - 08:44pm PT

Happy St Patty's you northern monkeys.

DBlack

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
Hey, it is awesome to see all of you still climbing through the winter in Squamish! I am so jealous, sitting at home in drizzly Vancouver. Happy late St Patrick's Day, btw! Too bad the awesome weather didn't last...

Anyway, I am heading up to Whistler next week and am interested in getting in some rock climbing. Is there some kind of beta somewhere that I can get my hands on for Spanky's Wall or any other alpine areas and/or routes? If any of you knows about the area or has tips, please share!

Thanks! You guys are an inspiration!

David
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Mar 20, 2014 - 11:37pm PT
An ode to the big stone....

Credit: brownie
http://www.33mag.com/en/2014/03/20/only-way-down
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Mar 20, 2014 - 11:51pm PT
Great TR dude! ^^^ Thanks.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 21, 2014 - 12:13am PT
Spanky's Wall or any other alpine areas and/or routes?


The beta for Spankies Wall is simple. Get off the lift then ski over to it. One rope and a light rack up to 2 inch max should do it. Thin cracks with face edges mostly. South facing. 5.9 ish mostly, some 5.10.

The premier stone at Blackcomb is the Finestone Cowboy on the Darned Gandarme, with two pitches of 4 star sustained mid .11 sport. South facing and fairly wind sheltered. It can be t shirts in january on the right blue sky day. One 60 m rope gets you off in 3 raps. Location is at the blow hole, a short ski traverse from the T bar.

a couple of low fifth ribs flank either side of DOA leading to the summit of Blackcomb peak. Good quality, solid and soloable on a sunny aspect. A ten minute traverse from top of lift 10. Descend by bootpacking down DOA gully, usually soft enough by then but an ice axe or ski pole may be nice to have.

The other stuff is mostly mutipitch mixed on the big stone flanking Husume. Excellent quality on good stone with mostly good gear if you like that sort of stuff, which is more like scotland than Hafner Creek. Little real ice, torquing cracks and moss sticks mostly with the odd snow mushroom. A 3 minute descending traverse from the blowhole gets you there. There is full beta in the west coast Ice guidebook which is likely out of print but I'll lend it out if you're serious.

A ski hill trail map will get you around just fine. Take note of permanent closures ID'd on the Map, especially for DOA ribs.

Generally its all quality, especially on the right spring day so go for it. Nothing beats skiing out at sunset after a quality day of honest climbing to a pint of guiness down at blacks.
DBlack

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Mar 22, 2014 - 12:36am PT
Thanks a lot Bruce. I will not bother you with the book, but thanks for the offer! Sounds like fun, I look forward to next week! I'll also skip on the Guinness as I am only 16, Haha! Thank you!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 22, 2014 - 12:55am PT
Sixteen !!! hahahaha on us !!! Be safe out there David. Are you in TREK?
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 22, 2014 - 01:37am PT
It's generally a good idea to skip the Guinness, regardless of age!! :) :) H.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 22, 2014 - 02:26am PT
Go for the Guinness if you are old enough, but stay away from the dreadful bottled stuff that pretends to be Guinness.
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