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Messages 6841 - 6860 of total 7154 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Melissa Manson

Boulder climber
Fairfield, VT
Feb 15, 2014 - 07:10pm PT
I love being able to read stories that have George's name. Thanks guys!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2014 - 07:24pm PT
Looks like lots of fun drew! Thanks!!
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Feb 24, 2014 - 10:57am PT
this isn't in squamish; but it's close, and it's rock climbing, and the rock climbers are from squamish so it'll have to do..

water formed limestone formations: a study in extreme weather sport clippin.

MH2

climber
Feb 24, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
^^^^^
Thanks. A good way to say things.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 11:51pm PT
Very nice Kieran! I've always said road trip shots were fair game.

I got out for a "couple" pitches this afternoon. I solo aided the left clean starts crack, then seconded it and hauled the pig with the gear that Luke lent me.


Kieran Brownie Photo

Then i practiced jugging three times before i took it down.

Tomorrow looks good too. Nice and warm
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 09:19am PT
Bump
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Feb 26, 2014 - 09:27am PT
You're supposed to Aid stuff you cant free climb...

D'OH!

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 26, 2014 - 09:58am PT


Hehe I just thought about how many placements u would need on clean starts mike since u can almost reach the top from the ground.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 10:07am PT
Really Luke?? Oh sh!t! I been doing it all wrong! Lol

Ryan it was five. Should been four but i used and extra one at the bottom for safety's sake
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 26, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
You should practice clean-aiding King of Rock, at least that has a couple hook moves and stuff.

EDIT: maybe not if you are Big Mike size though, you can topstep and reach past just about anything right?

The Human Cheater Stick
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 26, 2014 - 09:07pm PT
Gotta be about a million pitches to practice aiding on at Squish. And yes, some of them are longer than five placements -- even for you.

I think you should wait until the weekend, and if the weather is good, set yourself up for the day on Exasperator. That should piss off about 300 people.

But seriously, there really are endless things to practice aiding on. Try Rutabaga. Or Mushroom. Or anything at Octopus' Garden.

And what is all this aid practice for, anyway? Should I be thinking about getting you a hammer for christmas? All this sh#t with cams and hooks and wires and who knows what else fancy-ass modern crap isn't aid. Real aid requires a hammer. And gigantic forearms.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 26, 2014 - 09:24pm PT
Yeah Mike, Ghost brings a good point. I mean we got your back no matter what, but it is kind of disconcerting that you just got back into fighting form & now you got the Aids. Don't fret tho, there's a cure up at cheakamus. Just have to visit there a few times & before you know it you'll be all better. I've also heard of people being healed at Skaha by going on a retreat there with nothing but a 70m rope, harness, grigri2 and 18 quickdraws :-)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 27, 2014 - 12:06am PT
Hey Mike, are there still areas where you can whack pins and not feel the heat? I'll show you everything I learned from Daryl about pin stacking. Not as good as the Master himself, but it got me up the Trip and Mescalito pre-cams. Actually, I think some of your local contacts from that era also have the necessary skills. Come on boys, give 'im some juice.

Snicker, snicker.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 27, 2014 - 11:52am PT
There are still a zillion unclimbed cracks around Squamish you can nail in, but by the time you clean all the dirt and trees out to figure what size pin goes in you may as well just free it.

Many years ago I was practice solo-aiding some dirty roadside crack off Hwy 7 near Hope and zipper groundfell from the 4th piece. Ping, ping, ping, dirt. Shoulda cleaned the crack better, all the pins were slightly undersized but seated in just enough mud so they looked and bounced like they were solid.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2014 - 12:16pm PT
Yeah Mike, Ghost brings a good point. I mean we got your back no matter what, but it is kind of disconcerting that you just got back into fighting form & now you got the Aids.

Lol.. You know the deal Ryan but thanks for the excellent segue! Lol

I'm getting my C1/C2/hauling game in order for this nefarious plan I've hatched with the taco poet to climb the nose. I've also been advised by the kid that climbing with weirdos from the internet can be bad news, so i'm trying to meet up with him for some single pitch action long before we head to the valley. :)

Wayno! Yes as Drew says. I'm sure we can find a nice boulder or something to practice on!


I got out again yesterday and met up with Kyle. He patiently belayed me on another clean starts lap (centre crack this time). The reason i like clean starts so much right now it because it's super close to the truck, and carrying a lead line and a tagline plus gear and haulbag is still a little challenging.. Lol

Then i put all my aid crap away and we went and climbed Mosquito and Flemish as one pitch.




Kyle floated s&m


And i somehow managed it clean! I was pretty stoked.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 27, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
Credit: RyanD
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 27, 2014 - 05:37pm PT
Nice big mike.

I totally lurk on this thread. I love granite and Squamish has been on my list for like 20 years.

Question.
With a one week window for climbing, when would be the best time to visit?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 27, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
Jefe, anytime from Mid July-mid Sept but I would say for a sure thing with a mellow scene the week after Labor Day. You can stay at my place, all you need is shoes & harness, bring the dog too if it is logistically possible. You are all set, pull the trigger whenever you're ready.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 27, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
With a one week window for climbing, when would be the best time to visit?

First week of September. More or less.

Edit: Best to leave it until after the labor day holiday -- Squamish does get crowded.

Oh, and make sure you let us all know your dates well in advance. It'd be good to meet you.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 27, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
^^^indeed:-D ^^^^^
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