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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 27, 2014 - 12:24am PT
Yeah Mike, Ghost brings a good point. I mean we got your back no matter what, but it is kind of disconcerting that you just got back into fighting form & now you got the Aids. Don't fret tho, there's a cure up at cheakamus. Just have to visit there a few times & before you know it you'll be all better. I've also heard of people being healed at Skaha by going on a retreat there with nothing but a 70m rope, harness, grigri2 and 18 quickdraws :-)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 27, 2014 - 03:06am PT
Hey Mike, are there still areas where you can whack pins and not feel the heat? I'll show you everything I learned from Daryl about pin stacking. Not as good as the Master himself, but it got me up the Trip and Mescalito pre-cams. Actually, I think some of your local contacts from that era also have the necessary skills. Come on boys, give 'im some juice.

Snicker, snicker.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 27, 2014 - 02:52pm PT
There are still a zillion unclimbed cracks around Squamish you can nail in, but by the time you clean all the dirt and trees out to figure what size pin goes in you may as well just free it.

Many years ago I was practice solo-aiding some dirty roadside crack off Hwy 7 near Hope and zipper groundfell from the 4th piece. Ping, ping, ping, dirt. Shoulda cleaned the crack better, all the pins were slightly undersized but seated in just enough mud so they looked and bounced like they were solid.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
Yeah Mike, Ghost brings a good point. I mean we got your back no matter what, but it is kind of disconcerting that you just got back into fighting form & now you got the Aids.

Lol.. You know the deal Ryan but thanks for the excellent segue! Lol

I'm getting my C1/C2/hauling game in order for this nefarious plan I've hatched with the taco poet to climb the nose. I've also been advised by the kid that climbing with weirdos from the internet can be bad news, so i'm trying to meet up with him for some single pitch action long before we head to the valley. :)

Wayno! Yes as Drew says. I'm sure we can find a nice boulder or something to practice on!


I got out again yesterday and met up with Kyle. He patiently belayed me on another clean starts lap (centre crack this time). The reason i like clean starts so much right now it because it's super close to the truck, and carrying a lead line and a tagline plus gear and haulbag is still a little challenging.. Lol

Then i put all my aid crap away and we went and climbed Mosquito and Flemish as one pitch.




Kyle floated s&m


And i somehow managed it clean! I was pretty stoked.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 27, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
Credit: RyanD
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 27, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
Nice big mike.

I totally lurk on this thread. I love granite and Squamish has been on my list for like 20 years.

Question.
With a one week window for climbing, when would be the best time to visit?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 27, 2014 - 08:58pm PT
Jefe, anytime from Mid July-mid Sept but I would say for a sure thing with a mellow scene the week after Labor Day. You can stay at my place, all you need is shoes & harness, bring the dog too if it is logistically possible. You are all set, pull the trigger whenever you're ready.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 27, 2014 - 10:37pm PT
With a one week window for climbing, when would be the best time to visit?

First week of September. More or less.

Edit: Best to leave it until after the labor day holiday -- Squamish does get crowded.

Oh, and make sure you let us all know your dates well in advance. It'd be good to meet you.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 28, 2014 - 01:44am PT
^^^indeed:-D ^^^^^
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 28, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
RyanD what crag is that in your last pic - is it the thing down and right of Tunnel Rock or something? Looks oddly familiar but I can't quite place it.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 1, 2014 - 03:03am PT
Yep. A few fun climbs there, they are calling it the vandalarium. We did 5 there yesterday that were new to us. It is going to be a popular area this summer with a good collection of new & recleaned moderates.



http://quickdrawpublications.com/quickdraw/Free%20Downloads/Smoke%20Bluffs%20-%20Vandalarium.jpg
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Mar 1, 2014 - 11:35am PT
Don't get too close to the bars of the dragon's cage. He can still reach through the gaps with his claws. (At least that's what I tell my six year-old)

K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
Jefe, I think Ghost is right. September is probably your best bet!
That's pretty cool that Ryan offered to put you up I would take him up on it. Him and his lady are super cool and it's a stone's throw away from the smoke bluffs!!

I'd be happy to get out with you while you're here and i still wanna take you up on your offer to come south, but it's probably gonna be next winter.


After dragging my feet a little bit on Thursday morning i managed to get down to the bluffs in time for a pitch.

Another beautiful February day


The Squaw was beaming in the sun.


Kangaroo Corner went pretty well.. other than my aider getting caught on a draw near the top...


Getting stopped by clove hitches that I foolishly forgot to attend to was interesting as well.

I found out that clean aid climbers can really benefit from a nice light alpine hammer..



Especially if they want their nice offset peanuts back!

I ended up fetching a nice size rock to knock em out and prussiked back up the rope.

Both of em came out with a little tap.

Feeling victorious I pulled my rope. Before opposite end left my reach i noticed i had left my backup knot in it and it was twisted. I undid the figure 8 and straightened out the twists.

I gave it a little red rocks yank when the end reached the anchor, and it stuck. I pulled it and whipped it but it wasn't going anywhere. I certainly didn't want to jug it, and it was getting late so leading it was definitely a last ditch option.

I went around the corner and scoped out the crack to the left of clean starts. I had seen the boys using it as a down climb from their highball exploits.

I hadn't climbed it before but it looked like it was only one move to the ledge. The scariest part was when i got to the "ledge" and realized that part of it was more like dirt and moss on slab until you get around the corner! Lol.

It was pretty easy to get over to the Kangaroo anchor after that. Somehow the rope had curled into a simple overhand. It was certainly more than adventurous for this guy who probably can't really afford that type of risk.. Lol

I was rewarded with a beautiful sunset


After I successfully retrieved my rope I called Luke and was happy to hear that they were just sitting down to his birthday dinner at the casino.

It was pretty fun. Luke did magic tricks with the eight ball.


I'm hoping the Vandleairium will have it's anchor issues solved soon.
mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
Mar 2, 2014 - 06:42pm PT

Great pictures!!

Pretty amazing to see how Squam has evolved since my Seattle friends and I used to come up there in the early 70's. Never in our wildest dreams could we have predicted that Squamish would become the year-round destination climbing area it has. Bravo to all you dedicated moss-backs!
Timmc

climber
BC
Mar 2, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
Mike- I love yer iPhone landscapes from the Bluffs!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 2, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
Mike, I love those photos!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
Thanks Don! If it weren't for you pioneers, this place probably just wouldn't be the same. Do you have any tales from fa's that stick out which you'd care to regale us with?

Thanks Tim and Glenn. I'm pretty happy with the shots my phone takes too. I am thinking about updating to a point and shoot though, since a couple of my iphone shots were considered for publication and then didn't make the grade.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 4, 2014 - 12:50am PT
Yeah, the phone photos look great on the screen, but for print, you need something better. If your phone will save as RAW or even TIFF, you might be able to get away with it. But not JPEG.
this just in

climber
north fork
Mar 4, 2014 - 11:20am PT
This is definitely the best climbing thread on the taco, I wish I could contribute, but enjoy lurking and seeing all the climbing. Thanks to everyone.
Mike, there are a couple threads on best point and shoot cameras and I think it's worth the couple hundred dollars, sorry loonies. Your pics are definitely worthy of publication.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1907097

I'll be in Whistler February 1-7 next year, hopefully the snow is good.
BritNeil

Trad climber
Talybont on Usk, Wales, UK
Mar 4, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
Hi, this is my first post on Supertopo, some inspiring pics and fantastic looking routes. Keep them coming!

I live in Wales, UK, and am heading over to Washington to visit my wife's family this summer for a month (July). In the past I have brought the bike over but this year I am getting back into climbing, used to do a lot, trad up to E4 (5.10d/11a I guess) but am probably only looking at 5.10 on lead now after a few years off. Did a couple of months in Yosemite back then too. I'd been keen to meet up with some climbers in the area to get out on sport, trad or perhaps even a wall if things go well, anyone up for showing a brit around? I know it's a way off but I like to plan ahead!

Thanks,
Neil
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