Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 6841 - 6860 of total 9011 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Jul 13, 2014 - 11:41am PT
Nothing but shade and cool temps on the peace pipe!

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 13, 2014 - 09:45pm PT
Box, not Monmouth
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 13, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
Was swimming in Howe Sound this afternoon/evening and it was among the warmest water I've swum in around here. Still very refreshing. Fabulous.

Hope you all had a safe & Faboo weekend.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 07:37am PT
Hey Tami! Sorry i didn't answer your question yesterday.. I was a bit out of it at the time... Lol I believe they are calling it "Crumpit Woods" just like the crags behind it. Not sure if there will be any access issues..

As for your other question........ Here we go.

I climbed with a legend yesterday. An inspiration really.

Wayne W has had paralytic polio since he was 9 years old. He's also destroyed his right leg in a catastrophic motorcycle accident among many other mishaps in his life. The fact that he still wants to climb despite all the difficulty he faces is simply amazing.

Heather and Wayne in the parking lot. Note Wayne's protection on his emaciated right leg, and the braces on his wrists.


I chose rock on because it was the steepest apron route I could climb and I've always wanted to link it with the buttress.

Wayne's static line just made it to the anchors in the 10a. He said it was the shortest tail he's ever started jugging on.


Wayne pulling onto the top of the Apron.




Hiking up the slabs at the top of the Apron.
Wayne's like me. Climbing is his strong suit..

My walking is getting a lot better though..

Wayne jugging the first pitch of the buttress.


This was taken from the awesome ledge below the headwall


Wayne jugging the headwall


When we topped out things turned epic. Wayne was done. He had only brought 1 litre of water and it just wasn't cutting it.

Heather had called a friend who had agreed to bring us some water, and had left it at the top of the south peak. We were all parched and heather and i had brought 3 litres each but i sat on my camelback hose and lost at least half a litre.

Wayne rested for a bit while i pushed his static line up the slabs above the buttress. I didn't want to make him scramble those last couple moves especially in his condition.

Heather went ahead to get the water while Wayne and I hiked very slowly. She had only done the buttress once though, and they did the south peak scramble so she wasn't familiar with the descent and ran into a dead end, so came back.

I volunteered to run up and get the water, and ditched my gear at a point were the trail led back to the main 1st peak trail and i thought they would come across it.

I ran up to the peak and witnessed the supermoon in it's full glory. Unfortunately my camera was in the bag i was carrying for wayne with the rest of my stuff. I wasn't much in the mood for taking pics at that point anyways.

I found the water in a divot beside some people who were biving up there for the night, and thanked them for not drinking it.. Lol

I ran back down to Wayne and Heather. I found Heather lost on the slabs still with Wayne lying not far behind her.

I gave them both some water, and Wayne sipped at it gently since his stomach had already failed to contain it's charge.

It didn't help. He started puking up more bile. I rested with him for awhile, when he told me i should just go ahead and go get my truck from the apron parking lot, and some food and electrolytes for them to imbibe when they got to the bottom. I agreed, probably because i was so damn eager to get off the cliff. I left him with Heather and took as much gear as i could handle.

I made my way down the trail, and was surprised how much i was sweating considering how late it was. I had no idea of the time, but knew it was well after midnight.

I stopped quickly at the river spot to quickly fill my bottle which had gone dry again long ago. I didn't linger there too long and made my way down with a sense of purpose, somehow thinking i might not make it back to the parking lot before they got down.

When i got to the parking lot, there were two climbers there eating dinner. I had checked the time on the payphone and it said 2:30am but i just couldn't believe it, so i asked them for the time.

They told me 2:30 and then asked me about my day. After i told them what we were up to, they asked if my truck was in the apron lot, and i said yes. Then he asks "do you want a ride down there??" To which i replied, "HELL YES!!!!!" They gave me some food too and it was more than welcome.

After i went and ran errands i came back to the parking lot and there was no sign of them. I sat around in my truck until the leg cramps started again at which point i laid in the bed of my truck and got eaten alive by fricking mossi's.

Around 5am i started to get pretty darn worried. After some food and 2 liters of gatorade i started to feel a bit better. I decided to hike back up as far as i could physically make it with gatorade and food in tow. I made it to the top of the stone steps by the creek fall pool before I had enough. I sat on the stairs waiting until my ass hurt so bad i couldn't take it anymore and i left the goodies in the middle of top stair and went back down.

I went back to the truck and seriously started to think about calling search and rescue. I just didn't know how bad wayne was, or if something had happened to either one of them?

By 6:30 it had been four hours and a half hours since i'd seen them last. I called sar. I hated to do it, but better safe than sorry right? I was on the phone with dispatch still when Heather showed up.

She said Wayne was fine just really tired and he was still making his way down slowly. She found the gatorades and sent one up with the food for wayne with another hiker who was passing at a fortuitous moment.

Finally at about 8 Heather and I had gathered enough energy for another push we got to the base of the stairs, and there he was. Looking refreshed actually.. ;)

All's well that ends well i guess. In retrospect we probably should have just bivied right at the top of the buttress and Heather and i could have let Wayne rest while we went up the fast scramble to retrieve the water.....

What an EPIC!! Lol Nice work getting it done Wayne!!

And thanks for your patience and hard work Heather!!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 14, 2014 - 08:15am PT
Mike I"m glad the outcome of your fine trip was all good but holeymoley that was EPIC.

Glad to hear everyone is okay. Best to take a few days to recover. That kind of stress on the body is major.

MH2

climber
Jul 14, 2014 - 08:34am PT
Whoa!! Whew!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 09:04am PT
Glad to hear everyone is okay. Best to take a few days to recover. That kind of stress on the body is major.

I'll say!! I'm still bagged. Sore as hell. I went to work and got the boys started but i just can't do it today.. Gonna do some errands instead..
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jul 14, 2014 - 09:48am PT
Wow, major epic. Glad all is ok, but please take it easy in this heat...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 14, 2014 - 10:41am PT
Not a day you'll forget any time soon.
Vulch

Trad climber
Whistler BC
Jul 14, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
100% dirtbags afterwards too. No work for me either today big guy. Another positive note for this adventure was getting to hike the trail with not a soul in the early hours.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
Vulch is Heather in case you guys didn't make the connection....

Thanks Andy, Glenn, and Dave! I promise to take it easy for a bit... I don't remember when my last 24 hour push was!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 14, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
Vulch is Heather in case you guys didn't make the connection....

Made the connection no problem, but I'd like to know what route she's on in her Avatar photo. Nice-looking crack, that.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
It's a Tami Knight Peter Croft affair Dave... Seaside..

Credit: Vulch
Ben Roy Photo
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
No guesses??
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 14, 2014 - 05:45pm PT
HAHAHAHAH I DONT REMEMBER HAHAHAHAAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


NIce crack tho' Heather. Why "Vultch" .......or do ya not wanna admit why?


Grin.


Work today was hotter than Hades. 34 kids in the summer camp ; most had turned to grease stains by 2:30pm. Gotta go fer a swim at Locarno later.

Yup.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
Come on Tami!! Lol surely you remember getting a little "tipsy" on this one???
Vulch

Trad climber
Whistler BC
Jul 14, 2014 - 06:34pm PT
Prime crack indeed! :)
this just in

climber
north fork
Jul 14, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
Nice mini epic factor two Mike! Great read, happy the way it ended. Badass Wayne W.
Relic

Social climber
Weenie
Jul 14, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
Holy sheeeeiiit Mike! I didn't know your epic was gonna turn into that! I feel bad for not coming up to bring water. I would have totally ditched my dinner party guests at my house to come help you if I knew it went that bad. Oh well...

I'm glad you got it all sorted out in the end.

Bad Relic.
Vulch

Trad climber
Whistler BC
Jul 14, 2014 - 08:05pm PT
Haha my last name is Fulcher. In high school I got Vulcher a lot and a few years a friend called me Vulch. I kind of liked it.
Messages 6841 - 6860 of total 9011 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews